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  #41  
Old 04-18-2018, 12:03 PM
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So can an 80% handgun be legally built at this point in cali?
Yes, our single shot kit works with most 80% handgun builds.
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  #42  
Old 04-18-2018, 9:03 PM
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JSD, are your videos posted anywhere else as I would like to see them and I do not do evil Facebook or Instagram?
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  #43  
Old 04-20-2018, 5:58 PM
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video for those of you who may have jig access to finish one of these.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PuzUQcmH3Z0
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  #44  
Old 04-25-2018, 9:11 AM
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tagged
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  #45  
Old 05-02-2018, 8:26 AM
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Lots of pictures are down. Was this intentional?
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  #46  
Old 05-02-2018, 8:37 AM
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Lots of pictures are down. Was this intentional?
No, I probably just exceeded the allowable bandwith on the image host... I will need to update with links to a new host probably.

EDIT- It looks like the image hoster took down any photos that were related to guns... I guess imgbb censors now.

Last edited by nubrun; 05-02-2018 at 9:16 AM..
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  #47  
Old 05-05-2018, 9:29 PM
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Lots of pictures are down. Was this intentional?
Pics are back up!
http://80percenter.com
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  #48  
Old 05-06-2018, 5:42 AM
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Pics are back up!

http://80percenter.com


Yea, I need to update the first post on here as well. I need more hours in the day.
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  #49  
Old 05-16-2018, 2:28 PM
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JSD has instructions on the jig page. Follow those as the top plate cannot be used to guide a hacksaw.

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/29...02692031246835
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  #50  
Old 05-16-2018, 2:39 PM
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Originally Posted by bauern View Post
JSD has instructions on the jig page. Follow those as the top plate cannot be used to guide a hacksaw.



https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/29...02692031246835


Pictures would be nice.
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  #51  
Old 05-16-2018, 2:49 PM
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Originally Posted by bauern View Post
JSD has instructions on the jig page. Follow those as the top plate cannot be used to guide a hacksaw.



https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/29...02692031246835


I assure you the top plate can be used to guide the hacksaw. I have talked with Jordan about this. Not sure why that changed.


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  #52  
Old 05-16-2018, 2:59 PM
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who and where can i buy a jig from, new or used or borrow it I don't care, I just want to finish this
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  #53  
Old 05-16-2018, 3:24 PM
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Originally Posted by nubrun View Post
I assure you the top plate can be used to guide the hacksaw. I have talked with Jordan about this. Not sure why that changed.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Didn't mean to impune your description earlier in this thread, as that is how the jig you have works. The top plate of the jig as I received is about 3/4" wide whereas the slide's internal rail is about .8630". Using a hacksaw with the top plate as a guide will cut the insert too narrow. There are engravings on top of the jig body on where to cut them, but it's done freehand. Slow and steady will get er done. If you have a mill, you can cut them with that. Also, you will most likely have to use a punch to set the rails flat against the jig; the top plate wont do it alone.
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  #54  
Old 05-16-2018, 4:55 PM
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Originally Posted by bauern View Post
Didn't mean to impune your description earlier in this thread, as that is how the jig you have works. The top plate of the jig as I received is about 3/4" wide whereas the slide's internal rail is about .8630". Using a hacksaw with the top plate as a guide will cut the insert too narrow. There are engravings on top of the jig body on where to cut them, but it's done freehand. Slow and steady will get er done. If you have a mill, you can cut them with that. Also, you will most likely have to use a punch to set the rails flat against the jig; the top plate wont do it alone.
You got your jig already? Sounds like the production jigs are different than the prototypes.
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  #55  
Old 05-16-2018, 5:22 PM
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Originally Posted by bauern View Post
Didn't mean to impune your description earlier in this thread, as that is how the jig you have works. The top plate of the jig as I received is about 3/4" wide whereas the slide's internal rail is about .8630". Using a hacksaw with the top plate as a guide will cut the insert too narrow. There are engravings on top of the jig body on where to cut them, but it's done freehand. Slow and steady will get er done. If you have a mill, you can cut them with that. Also, you will most likely have to use a punch to set the rails flat against the jig; the top plate wont do it alone.


I didnít take it that way, I didnít realize the top plate had changed, my bad. I should probably update the write ups. Can you send me some pictures of the new top plate.

I noticed that the top plate didnít bend the rails completely. I found a half inch socket extension work per well to finish the bending.


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  #56  
Old 05-16-2018, 5:38 PM
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Tagged for next group buy... fingers crossed.
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  #57  
Old 05-16-2018, 6:25 PM
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First photo shows top of jig with engraved markings on where to cut rails.
Second photo shows rails already cut and fit to slide. They extend past edge of top plate.
I used a brass drift punch to push the rails flat to the jig.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg copy2.jpg (84.7 KB, 201 views)
File Type: jpg copy_LI.jpg (84.1 KB, 186 views)

Last edited by bauern; 05-16-2018 at 6:28 PM..
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  #58  
Old 05-25-2018, 7:44 PM
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  #59  
Old 06-05-2018, 9:04 AM
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Default Sig P320 80% Insert Completion

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Last edited by NorCalNative; 06-06-2018 at 8:11 PM..
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  #60  
Old 06-06-2018, 3:10 AM
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  #61  
Old 07-03-2018, 11:15 PM
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So I assembled my FCU and it failed somewhere down the line. The trigger can be pulled, but there is no audible/tactile release....if anyone can help I’ve got a couple questions.

1) on step (11): It says if I have one of the “first productions runs of the JSD insert” that I will need to file the rear of the insert to allow the safety to fully depress.
How do I know if I have a first production run of the insert?
—I haven’t filed anything (yet), but I can’t really determine what (if anything is blocked).

2) suppose I accidentally made a hole too big (trigger stop hole), to the point where the pin readily falls out, is there anything that I can do to remedy the situation?
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  #62  
Old 07-04-2018, 9:10 AM
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Originally Posted by pensiveape View Post
So I assembled my FCU and it failed somewhere down the line. The trigger can be pulled, but there is no audible/tactile release....if anyone can help Iíve got a couple questions.

1) on step (11): It says if I have one of the ďfirst productions runs of the JSD insertĒ that I will need to file the rear of the insert to allow the safety to fully depress.
How do I know if I have a first production run of the insert?
óI havenít filed anything (yet), but I canít really determine what (if anything is blocked).

2) suppose I accidentally made a hole too big (trigger stop hole), to the point where the pin readily falls out, is there anything that I can do to remedy the situation?
For number one, did you make sure you reset the takedown safety lever after assembling? You need to lock the slid eback and should hear a clock as the lever resets. After it resets you should have a live trigger.

The trigger stop pin isn't critical. Once the FCU is installed in the grip it won't move.
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  #63  
Old 07-04-2018, 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by nubrun View Post
For number one, did you make sure you reset the takedown safety lever after assembling? You need to lock the slid eback and should hear a clock as the lever resets. After it resets you should have a live trigger.

The trigger stop pin isn't critical. Once the FCU is installed in the grip it won't move.
Dumb question: Is it possible to reset the "takedown safety lever" to get a live trigger, without assembling the FCU with the slide?
-Every time thus far that I've assembled the seemingly finished FCU with the slide I have the FCU get locked up with the slide (unable to remove).

Should I be hearing a "click" of a live trigger firing when pulling the trigger fully on a completed FCU by itself (unconnected to frame or slide)?
-Because Although I was able to pull the trigger fully, I didn't hear any click.

I'm going to try to reassemble the FCU incase something was missed the first time around. The FCU assembly video I watched was a little difficult to follow.

Last edited by pensiveape; 07-04-2018 at 12:56 PM..
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  #64  
Old 07-05-2018, 6:58 AM
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Originally Posted by pensiveape View Post
I'm going to try to reassemble the FCU incase something was missed the first time around. The FCU assembly video I watched was a little difficult to follow.
The Alma Coles video starts reassembly at around the 11 minute mark. I used it with the parts and tools in front of me, pausing, reversing, pausing, step by step. The video is a little dark at a couple of points but if you take your time it will work out. nubrun shows what needs to be removed from the FCU on his site. I would guess that MK II insert has that extra material already removed. Mine was the MK I and I'll bet most, if not all of us got the early version.

Also I highly recommend polishing the rails, ALL surfaces. Smooth out the inside of the FCU and I polished the outside. My favorite Dremel wheel is the #500, it will remove material and polish.
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  #65  
Old 07-05-2018, 7:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pensiveape View Post
Dumb question: Is it possible to reset the "takedown safety lever" to get a live trigger, without assembling the FCU with the slide?
-Every time thus far that I've assembled the seemingly finished FCU with the slide I have the FCU get locked up with the slide (unable to remove).

Should I be hearing a "click" of a live trigger firing when pulling the trigger fully on a completed FCU by itself (unconnected to frame or slide)?
-Because Although I was able to pull the trigger fully, I didn't hear any click.

I'm going to try to reassemble the FCU incase something was missed the first time around. The FCU assembly video I watched was a little difficult to follow.
You will not hear any clicks without the slide on and the takedown safety lever reset. Remember it's the striker that makes the click, and hte striker is housed inside of the slide.

When you say you get the FCU "locked up" with the slide, what do you mean? The slide won't come off, or you have trouble getting the FCU out of the grip?
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  #66  
Old 07-05-2018, 7:28 AM
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Originally Posted by BrassCase View Post
The Alma Coles video starts reassembly at around the 11 minute mark. I used it with the parts and tools in front of me, pausing, reversing, pausing, step by step. The video is a little dark at a couple of points but if you take your time it will work out. nubrun shows what needs to be removed from the FCU on his site. I would guess that MK II insert has that extra material already removed. Mine was the MK I and I'll bet most, if not all of us got the early version.

Also I highly recommend polishing the rails, ALL surfaces. Smooth out the inside of the FCU and I polished the outside. My favorite Dremel wheel is the #500, it will remove material and polish.
Thank you. That is most likely what the issue was. It was a mark-1, because it was completely level/flat without any material removed. For some reason I assumed that the updated (mark-2) versions simply didnít need to have material removed because they were designed differently (and not because the material was already removed).



What I meant by the FCU locking up, is that after sliding it on the upper slide (not the frame), it would get stuck and not slide off. It would take a lot of effort and manipulation to get the FCU to slide back off the upper receiver/slide.
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  #67  
Old 07-05-2018, 8:43 PM
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So I disassembled it, and made the removal of the material that is supposed to be taken away from the mark-1 FCUs. I assembled it back together and everything works as it should. Live trigger an all!

I still don’t see what the cut allowed for. I don’t see any more movement that is made possible by the cut, or what movement was hindered before the removal of material... but now it works. Maybe it’s simply coincidence, and I corrected something with the assembly the second time around which I missed the first time.

Tomorrow I’ll take it to the range and give it a test fire.

Thank you guys for being of help to me. Genuinely appreciate it.
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  #68  
Old 07-06-2018, 7:18 AM
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Take down is odd, It seems like it takes 3 attempts to get the slide off. At least it is consistent. I think I saw something about this on the Brownells web site, I need to go look again.
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  #69  
Old 07-06-2018, 8:38 AM
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Take down is odd, It seems like it takes 3 attempts to get the slide off. At least it is consistent. I think I saw something about this on the Brownells web site, I need to go look again.
Can you clarify when you say three attempts at takedown? Are you referring to getting the slide off after the take down lever is rotated, or it takes 3 attempts to rotate the takedown lever?
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  #70  
Old 07-06-2018, 10:47 AM
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Take down is odd, It seems like it takes 3 attempts to get the slide off. At least it is consistent. I think I saw something about this on the Brownells web site, I need to go look again.
I took a look at the Brownells video.

The takedown is fairly simple:
1)Lock the slide back with the slide catch
2)Move the throw lever down
3)Release the Slide Catch (allowing slide to move forward in place)
4) remove slide off of the rails

The Brownells video made a point to mention that you must use the slide catch/slide lock, to lock the slide back before moving the throw lever down or back in place when reassembling.
-Just moving the slide back without locking it into place (like you would a Glock), will cause problems (ie. a deactivated trigger).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-wyxiD9O83o
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Old 07-06-2018, 5:48 PM
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I wasn't always following the steps. Sometime I put the take down lever down and then racked back, that doesn't work. No problem turning the lever. The problem is with the human operator.
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  #72  
Old 07-08-2018, 9:41 PM
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I'm 98% sure my trigger spring is bent out of the 90į. I tried to be careful and followed that video on YT. Does a bent trigger spring make the trigger spongy or creates a faint click in the pre-travel?
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Last edited by Flanders; 07-15-2018 at 6:24 PM..
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  #73  
Old 07-10-2018, 1:34 PM
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What are you guys using for the 0 round/mag block portion to legally make it a single shot bolt?(I assumed everyone is using the easybolt or something similar for the bolt portion)
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Old 07-10-2018, 3:00 PM
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Most folks will do the following: cut a rod (ie. chopstick, kydex) to the proper length and place it into the body so that the follower can't accept a round.

Or,
http://www.magazineblocks.com/magent...l-limiter.html
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  #75  
Old 07-11-2018, 2:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flanders View Post
Most folks will do the following: cut a rod (ie. chopstick, kydex) to the proper length and place it into the body so that the follower can't accept a round.

Or,
http://www.magazineblocks.com/magent...l-limiter.html
Ah, so creating a 0 round magazine.

Does the mag release button need to be removed or "locked" in some fashion? Or will CA DOJ/oag accept this as single shot with a 0 rounder and standard magazine release?

Trying to figure out how to do this last portion before I jump in on this project. Thanks by the way, I've put in hours of searches but I've been having trouble on this one specific area!
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  #76  
Old 07-11-2018, 2:38 PM
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images are mostly dead in the front posts.

Can op re-upload for future reference?
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  #77  
Old 07-12-2018, 3:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scratch705 View Post
images are mostly dead in the front posts.

Can op re-upload for future reference?
Check out http://80percenter.com the pics and walk through moved to this blog.
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  #78  
Old 07-12-2018, 3:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Scratch705 View Post
images are mostly dead in the front posts.

Can op re-upload for future reference?
I need to, just haven't had time. I put them on the 80percenter.com website since the image hosters kept pulling them down for some reason.
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  #79  
Old 07-13-2018, 7:24 PM
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definitely going to look into a "bolt action" p320 build now! haha. also, imgur has been pretty reliable for image hosting from what I've seen
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Old 07-15-2018, 6:11 PM
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Has anyone measured the height of their rails?

I think I may have flatten the rails on my FCU a bit too much. When I pull the trigger, the slide has a slight downward (the entire slide) movement toward the grip module. The trigger has a spongy feel. I've already replace the spring.

When I grip the slide, lifting upward and pulling the trigger, the trigger feel is crisper and less spongy. I'm going to measure the rail height and try bending rails to raise the height a little.
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Last edited by Flanders; 07-15-2018 at 6:23 PM..
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