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  #361  
Old 11-07-2015, 1:15 PM
hipoint4life hipoint4life is offline
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Default best pick of Hi-point

You know whats sexy? A god damned hi-point. Those things a photogenic as hell!!
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  #362  
Old 11-07-2015, 1:19 PM
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tagged
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  #363  
Old 01-26-2016, 9:27 PM
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This is how you take pictures!




Quote:
Originally Posted by boogerwolf View Post
This is a great thread!
While not a handgun here is a couple of shots I did with my Ruger 10/22.

Nikon D7000 on tripod
Nikon SB600 speedlight, gridded, camera left
NIkon SB24 speedlight, gridded, camera right (pointed at front of scope)

(I don't have my settings handy. Will get them up when I get home)



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  #364  
Old 03-15-2016, 3:11 PM
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  #365  
Old 04-02-2016, 4:45 PM
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  #366  
Old 05-08-2016, 6:57 PM
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Thee all make mine look like I'm still in kindergarten. Thanks for the ideas.
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  #367  
Old 06-06-2016, 7:23 AM
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- Colt was shot on our coffee table sitting on glass,on board flash facing towards the ceiling

- XD same table and flash just no glass
Attached Images
File Type: jpg web3.jpg (79.6 KB, 164 views)
File Type: jpg web2.jpg (96.2 KB, 154 views)
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  #368  
Old 07-16-2016, 1:31 AM
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Great info Turby! Thanks!!!
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  #369  
Old 07-16-2016, 6:43 AM
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  #370  
Old 07-20-2016, 1:08 PM
mrwales mrwales is offline
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I find 3 filtered Iight sources, hand screen to reduce glare points and a tripod to work best. Camara is less important so long as you can manually set desired f stop.

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  #371  
Old 10-25-2016, 7:48 PM
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Low key
Attachment 549497
Attachment 549498

Last edited by Mr. Patis; 12-17-2016 at 6:47 PM..
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  #372  
Old 01-12-2017, 3:26 PM
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Hey there, I'm new to the scene. Is there any risk if you photograph the serial number of your gun? I have a buyer asking for that and I'm not sure if that's kosher. Thanks.
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  #373  
Old 02-13-2017, 9:23 PM
Carlo E. Carlo E. is offline
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Some old images i took for my college buddy/gunsmith for his business they do great work





and some of my stuff





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  #374  
Old 05-08-2017, 7:47 AM
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Reported
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  #375  
Old 05-08-2017, 7:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DubTap21 View Post
Nice, but what's the problem taking a photo of the pistol at a right angle?!! C'mon man!!

Sent from my SM-N930T using Tapatalk
This is what a Member send me yesterday . . . .

Funny people out there I must say . . . . lol
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  #376  
Old 05-08-2017, 10:12 AM
DubTap21 DubTap21 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kingair001 View Post
This is what a Member send me yesterday . . . .

Funny people out there I must say . . . . lol
What's more funny is your arrogance! Like I said yesterday, great quality pics, but I would love to see your interpretation of a stock photo. Just saying......

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  #377  
Old 05-08-2017, 10:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DubTap21 View Post
What's more funny is your arrogance! Like I said yesterday, great quality pics, but I would love to see your interpretation of a stock photo. Just saying......

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No arrogance from my side at all

But reading your post it sounded like that from you . . .

Perhaps sometimes rephrase your comment

My bad 😉 and no hard feelings 👍

I'm totally not one of 'those'

Rather have one of these 🍻 with you!

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Last edited by Kingair001; 05-08-2017 at 10:17 AM..
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  #378  
Old 05-27-2017, 12:53 PM
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experiment



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  #379  
Old 07-09-2017, 8:14 PM
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Sig Sauer 226 Scorpion



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  #380  
Old 07-09-2017, 8:15 PM
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Glock 17

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  #381  
Old 07-09-2017, 8:16 PM
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Ruger LC9

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  #382  
Old 07-09-2017, 8:18 PM
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Beretta 92FS



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  #383  
Old 07-09-2017, 8:21 PM
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S&W 442 No-Lock Pro Series

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  #384  
Old 07-09-2017, 8:23 PM
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Kahr P380


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  #385  
Old 07-09-2017, 8:34 PM
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S&W 627 8-Shot 357 N-Frame


All of the images were shot using some pretty basic equipment and cramped working conditions. Here is a quick list of ideas to go ahead and duplicate these types of shots.

Get a white box like this one from Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Shooti...ords=white+box

The one above is simple and lets you fold it down into a small package for storage. Use the white box with external lights right up near it to project diffuse light inside of the box. It is somewhat transparent. Also consider using a light pointing in directly inline with the camera like a flash or ring light. I used a cheap stand alone LED desk light. Get creative with the light and have plenty of it. The more the better in some ways.

For the camera I used a full frame Sony with a lens supporting close focus at 70mm. Ideally a 100mm MACRO lens is pretty much perfect. You can shoot from a tripod or with a hand hold. When hand holding make sure your camera can create clean images at high ISO to keep the shutter speed reasonable for a crisp shot. Most of the above are ISO 2000-3200 on a newer Sony alpha full frame at F8 aperture.

The real trick is to shoot everything with a little higher exposure compensation. Move it up 2/3 of a stop when you shoot so the subject isn't too dark.

You should also have Adobe Lightroom as well, take the picture into light room and use the brush tool. With the brush tool create a large spot with a big feather area to blend it in. Then set the exposure adjustment to be very high and paint out the white areas of the background. The object was shot on a white background and the high exposure will blow out the gray color into pure white.

The above photos were shot hand held and processed in Lightroom. All I did was erase serial numbers using the spot correction tool, paint out the boarders with a +4 exposure brush to change from gray-ish to white, and make my black/white corrections, clarity, etc. Then just export and away you go.
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  #386  
Old 07-12-2017, 12:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbinator View Post
Some General Tricks, Tips, and Hints

I've done enough home studio work to have learned a few more tricks, tips, and hints that I can share:
  • Sometimes you have to move or block light sources. The lights often are too bright, which calls for more diffusion. You should then use either another piece of fabric or a sheet of white paper to help diffuse the offending lamp even more. This helps eliminate hot spots on your product and allows for more even lighting. It is not always necessary to add a second diffuser, but if needed, you can use this trick to help.
  • Timer mode is not always necessary on point and shoot cameras. If you are using a tripod, often that is enough to ensure the camera is stable. I generally recommend timer mode or remote triggering of the shutter for SLR cameras.
  • Don't always rely on the LCD to show you your photograph results. You need to load the image onto a PC where you can then stare at the entire image in high resolution. Sometimes a portion of the photograph will be out of focus, or you'll see some lint or dust on your product. This is not always evident when you preview the image on your camera's LCD, so be sure you keep a computer handy to check out all of your work as you snap pictures.
  • Keep a log of your work. Write down (or type up) what worked for you and what didn't. This is the only way you can really remember and document your progress, thereby enabling you to improve upon what you have already done. It will also help prevent you from making the same time consuming and frustrating mistakes twice, assuming you even bother to read your notes.
  • Experiment. Not all settings work equally well for all subject matter. Try different settings and note your results. You may stumble across a fantastic setting and configuration for a particular product photo.
  • Read as much advice as you can and share your results. This is the best way to learn quickly and helps give back to the overall community of amateur photographers.
  • One problem I've noticed only is an issue when you use higher f-stop numbers (or a smaller aperture). If you have any dust on your sensor, you will get small black specks showing up in your photos. I've noticed this is a consistent problem for me, which then requires that I go clean the sensor by gently blowing air across it with a blower. At smaller f-stop numbers, dust typically does not show up, fortunately, because the shutter time typically is less and the sensor doesn't pick up on the dust.

New for 2010: Getting White Balance Right

One thing I've noticed in my own photos and photos that other people take, it's often quite difficult to get a good white balance going without introducing a hue or color cast to your photos. Getting the right blend of reds and blues can be difficult, but not so much so if you know how to set your camera's white balance properly.

All cameras have some sort of "auto" white balance mode built-in. Unfortunately, this feature doesn't always work accurately, and subsequent photos may show yellow, blue, or reddish tints upon further review at your PC. The human eye sees "white" as "white" in nearly all types of light. Electronics, however, have to interpret the light source and use different built-in reference points to accurately reproduce shades of white. Since the "auto" feature doesn't always get this right, that's why you see colored tints appear in your pictures.

There are a many ways to fix this, but for now I'll cover my most recent method that seems to work for me. I went out and bought one of these:



Some of you professional guys might have purchased a similar product, called the Expodisc. I was going to do so until I noticed that this little device cost only $26 from Amazon instead of the $90 for an Expodisc. It is essentially a plastic "grey card" with two sides - a white reflective side, and a grey colored plastic backing side. What you do is set your SLR's white balance off of this disk under the lighting in which you wish to take pictures. Subsequent photos taken in that same lighting should look properly color balanced - not too blue, not too yellow, not too red.

Here's how I do this on my older Nikon D70s, possibly similar on other cameras as well:

1) Press the WB button
2) Thumbwheel over to "PRE" mode (release WB button)
3) Press and hold WB button until "PRE" starts flashing (release WB button)
4) Focus on and snap a picture of the Prolite Full Color & White Balance Disk, about an arm's length away, in the lighting conditions you are using
5) Camera will tell you "Gd" (good) or "No Gd" (no good). If you get "No gd" try again. Else, the camera will set its white balance off the disk using the lighting setup you've got, or the ambient lighting present.

Now, leaving your WB in the "PRE" mode, go snap some pictures of your intended subject. Let's look at some comparison images. For this test, I'll use my primary home defense gun as an example:



Above: Camera is on AUTO WB. Looks kind of yellow. Not too good.



Above: Camera was set to INCANDESCENT WB since this is the type of bulb I'm using in my light source. Looks better, but still has a bit of a tint to it. I'll try again, but this time using the white balance disk.



Above: Final try, this time the PRE WB was used and set off of the white balance disk. Looks much better now - no tinting, no casting, no odd colors. You can do any final adjustments as you wish in Photoshop, if needed.

NOTE that this method makes it really easy to get nicely color balanced photos no matter what kind of light source you have available. It could be fluorescent, incandescent, shade, sunlight, morning, evening, whatever - as along as you do a manual white balance adjustment, your images will come out great every time.

(By the way, that gun is NOT my primary home defense gun, I was only joking! )

Enjoy! I hope this is helpful to others out there on Calguns. Feel free to ask me any questions that you may have on how to do this for yourself.

Turby
Great tips! The shots look great against the white background. I purchased an inexpensive set up from Amazon for less than $100 and it came with everything I needed to get some high resolution shots of my firearms.

For anyone toying around with product style photography, a light box is an absolute must. I always recommend getting a larger lightbox since you it can never hurt. But if you buy a light box that is too small, you wont be able to fit certain pieces in it. Definitely get set up with some nice lighting, which is often included in the Amazon product photography kits, and try to shoot in a room with lots of natural light- this makes a huge difference in how your shots will end up looking.
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  #387  
Old 08-05-2017, 4:17 PM
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Thanks for the tips


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  #388  
Old 08-13-2017, 10:09 PM
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Nikon D5200
Nikon 50mm 1.8 lens
F/8
1/160 speed
Iso 100
Light: Westcott Rapid Box - 26" Octa Softbox

1911 by J M, on Flickr
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  #389  
Old 08-14-2017, 4:59 PM
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OH! Really good to see this information and Photos.
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  #390  
Old 09-19-2017, 7:59 AM
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Really good photos here. Impressed with CG's use of flash. I resonate a lot of the advice here. I would like to add that softboxes and umbrellas with use of a constant light source or flash will do wonders to an image
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  #391  
Old 09-20-2017, 11:03 AM
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Default How we do it...

It's all about the lighting usually. We take hundreds of product pictures for the store so we take a few shortcuts... We photograph everything on top of a light box to get a pure white background and no shadows without needing to do any post processing. Usually with a 50mm macro lens at f16, 1/30, 1000iso. All Canon gear. We also use a graduated manfrotto tripod head so that we can easily record and replicate the camera angles. For shots of entire rifles we usually have to use a 24mm pancake lens to get it all in the frame at a reasonable distance. A cheap lens ring light from amazon will do away with most of your shadows. Our process is tuned for fast, high volume photography with a minimum of post so that comes at a small sacrifice to quality. We go for a "good" picture on the first try every time rather than an "awesome" picture with the need to retune the settings for each shot. If you are looking to take high grade pictures with more interesting content, shadows and backgrounds and such, a lens with good depth of field will let you create some interesting effects. We have a 100mm canon L macro lens that takes amazing pictures of pretty much anything handgun size or smaller. Make sure you blast your content with some compressed air otherwise all those little dust particle will show up in your shot.
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