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  #41  
Old 08-19-2017, 1:31 PM
eric n eric n is offline
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I think a lot of you would be shocked with the equipment many short range br guys use to load with.

Save your money on that necksizer set. You will have to eventually full length size, the micro top for a necksizer is worthless, and neck sizing gains you no accuracy. Also, you will run into chambering and extraction problems with your AR by having a tight chamber fit. I don't shoot AR's anymore but I would want a die that sizes my brass too much as opposed to too little. Another point is how hard AR's are on brass. Your case mouths are going to get thrashed a lot.
If you have the money Whidden dies are good, if you are shooting a bolt, Harrels make good semi custom dies that will closely match your chamber if you send them brass that has been fired 3x. Redding bushing dies are good. My experience with forster and rcbs non bushing dies are the neck diameter are on the small side.
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  #42  
Old 08-19-2017, 7:18 PM
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Originally Posted by rawkstarr71 View Post
The Dillon 650 is an awesome tool but it is Advanced for a beginner I would recommend having a Lee single stage and also a progressive you can't go wrong with Dylan products

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The 650 is not too advanced for a beginner. Just be sure to read up on reloading and take your time setting up the press/dies. Then go slow, constantly checking your work until you get comfortable with it. At that point you can start cranking them out. Do the same for each new caliber you load.

One more thing, the powder check is a must have for this press, especially if you're loading pistol calibers.

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  #43  
Old 08-19-2017, 7:48 PM
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Originally Posted by JDay View Post
The 650 is not too advanced for a beginner. Just be sure to read up on reloading and take your time setting up the press/dies. Then go slow, constantly checking your work until you get comfortable with it. At that point you can start cranking them out. Do the same for each new caliber you load.

One more thing, the powder check is a must have for this press, especially if you're loading pistol calibers.

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Just my two cents for someone that has never used a Progressive it can be a little overwhelming

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  #44  
Old 08-19-2017, 7:51 PM
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Just my two cents for someone that has never used a Progressive it can be a little overwhelming

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I started on the 650. As long as you take your time getting started it's fine. Setup one station at a time then check them again as you go.

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  #45  
Old 08-19-2017, 11:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Kwikvette View Post


I believe that I'm a good shooter (in my own mind), but by no means will I achieve said-groups consistently. 3/4" is pretty consistent if I'm feeling good that day.

s.
At what distance did you hit that .25" group?
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  #46  
Old 08-19-2017, 11:09 PM
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At what distance did you hit that .34" group?
Thought I answered that in post 27

100 yards.
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Originally Posted by longrange1 View Post
my gun shoots better with shiny brass...plus not only does the shiny brass make me look like a pimp at the range if the sun catches it just right it blinds the guy next to me which improves my odds of winning the match.
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  #47  
Old 08-19-2017, 11:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Kwikvette View Post
Thought I answered that in post 27

100 yards.
no you only said 77gr

good shooting, will you be loading 69,75,80gr bullets mainly?
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  #48  
Old 08-19-2017, 11:47 PM
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no you only said 77gr

good shooting, will you be loading 69,75,80gr bullets mainly?
Oh I know, hence the face palm for my fail post

I've only used Hornady TAP (75gr), IMI Razorcore (77gr), Peak Performance (75gr) and Black Hills reman. (77gr).

I'll have to dig out my targets but I would shoot 10 5-shot groups (5 per paper target) and my groups were -

+/- 1" with the Hornady
+/- .8" with IMI
+/- .6" with Black Hills
+/- .8" with Peak Performance

What I found interesting is, in each group shot using Peak Performance, 4 rounds would create a group of just over a quarter inch. The 5th was always a flier which translated to double the group size. It happened multiple times so I'm not sure if it was me or the ammunition (since it's inexpensive anyway).

I ordered 1,000 rounds of it and may use it up when I head to LA to shoot at the range next month.

To answer your question, mainly 75gr-77gr since I assume that's what 2 of my rifles like best. I haven't shot my 2 bolt guns chambered in .223 but I find them boring anyway.
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my gun shoots better with shiny brass...plus not only does the shiny brass make me look like a pimp at the range if the sun catches it just right it blinds the guy next to me which improves my odds of winning the match.
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  #49  
Old 08-19-2017, 11:54 PM
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Coaxial is the most unorthodox, but it is my next press to buy.

Redding Big Boss 2 can't go wrong. Redding still makes their presses in the U.S. which is more than I can say for RCBS.

I don't see how Lee can claim to make a robust press for less money than Redding charges. Lee is all about price-point and 'we will be glad to send you the parts when...' And that is fine, thousands of guys are happy with Lee, but if you only have one press and that press lays down for what ever reason then no reloading for you until the UPS man shows up.

Don't go cheap on the up front costs of reloading, otherwise you buy twice, or 3 times or 4 times....
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  #50  
Old 08-20-2017, 2:50 AM
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Well if you are expecting a catastrophic failure then you will be waiting for UPS no matter what. Even Dillon will not send out a major part without proof or return of the part that was broken. And by major I mean something big. Maybe the RAM they might, but the frame... And I am sure that Lee would do the same- however, I have not seen an LCC break like I have seen a Dillon break. Heh. I do not ever think you will see a Lee break that way. AND if you are thinking it will break, why not put together some spare parts in a kit ahead of time? Because of all the people *****ing and moaning about a certain little black square on the LCT, I went out and bought 2 extra JIC. They are STILL in the bags in the drawer. Now for the Loadmaster I have a few extra parts. AND I have had to dip into those parts once or twice for the pawl and o-ring. But then again, minor parts... And since the press ONLY puts out about 700+ rph I aint worried too much about it since I only paid $150 for the press in 9mm and then bought some fancy upgrades for about $50 more...
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  #51  
Old 08-20-2017, 6:54 AM
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I apologize for being Debbie Downer but.... Consistent 1/4" groups from an AR is asking a lot. Your dies and press are a small part of accuracy.
I am in no way dissuading you from reloading, your groups will most likely shrink and stay consistent. Hopefully, you enjoy it as it is a relaxing hobby but unrealistic expectations make for frustration.
Good luck in your decisions, welcome to the madness.
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  #52  
Old 08-20-2017, 8:43 AM
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Start with a lee kit if you want to save money. If you have a little more cash to spend, go for a rock chucker kit. Both of these presses will handle 223 and 308, and will load MOA ammo if you know what you're doing.

Forget about the fancy pants presses and progressives for now. You need practice in basic reloading principles.
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  #53  
Old 08-20-2017, 8:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eric n View Post
I apologize for being Debbie Downer but.... Consistent 1/4" groups from an AR is asking a lot. Your dies and press are a small part of accuracy.
I am in no way dissuading you from reloading, your groups will most likely shrink and stay consistent. Hopefully, you enjoy it as it is a relaxing hobby but unrealistic expectations make for frustration.
Good luck in your decisions, welcome to the madness.
Cherry picked 3 shot groups, common in the gun world.

They should instead load a mag and shoot 10-20 rounds in succession. Then we'll see how that semi auto military rifle really runs.
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  #54  
Old 08-20-2017, 9:34 AM
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Read a few manuals and read them again.

>I've got the jest (sorry, but: jest, a thing said or done for amusement; a joke; gist, the substance or essence of a speech or text) of reloading/etc. so I'll make it easier for you guys to help me out here -

>Who is considered as making some of the best single stage presses available?

Arbor press and custom dies that match your rifle's chamber (see Wilson). Forster Co-Ax is my first and last choice for single-stage press; however, they are all more than good enough and you'll make ammunition just as accurate with a Lee Challenger press.

>Dies are the real heart of a reloading setup, so I'd also want to know who makes the best dies as well IE Lee's, RCBS, etc.

No, they really aren't until you get those hand-made custom dies that match your chamber.
Lee has won benchrest and long-distance matches, but most like some other feature of some other die.
If shooting bolt action, you need a full length size die, you will probably want a neck-only sizing die, and a seating die.
If shooting semi-auto, you need a full length size die (of any make) and a seating die (here, a special match seating die with cut-out for placing the bullet in the die might help). I adjust the sizing die until all cases just chamber and I get a custom seating plug that actually FITS the bullet I am using and does not touch the meplat at all.
Beyond that, you will want a bullet run-out tool that will let you "adjust" the bullet to minimize run-out and something like the Hornady Lock-N-Load Bullet Comparator. Also, you will want to lightly chamfer the inside and outside of every case mouth once when you get the case and once every time you trim the case.
Micrometers DO NOT make more accurate rounds, they just make it easier to return close to where the die was previously set. I prefer to retire the die for a pet load and get a new one, than to spend money on micrometers and look up some setting later.

>My aim is at reloading for accuracy, so I'm looking for a setup that'll be as consistent as I am.

How consistent is THAT?
Accuracy is the rifle, the bullet, and the shooter. Everything else you are worrying about is a long drop in importance. Accuracy is often achieved by shooting more and not by tricks at the bench.

>I plan on only reloading for .223/5.56 and possibly .308 (got rid of most other calibers).

>PS What's an efficient, yet quiet way to clean brass? Tumbler's are loud

All you need to do is wipe off the exterior of the case. Cleaning does not add to accuracy.
Quiet? Vibrators are loud.
My Thumler's Tumbler is quiet. My Ultrasonic is pretty much noiseless. If your cleaning needs mean absolutely clean and shiny cases, you'll have to put up with a Thumler and SS pins, as the US will thoroughly clean, but won't achieve the super-shiny factor so many want.

Of course, what you really want is a Dillon 1050 with RT 1500 trimmer installed...

Last edited by noylj; 08-20-2017 at 9:41 AM..
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  #55  
Old 08-20-2017, 10:06 AM
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I started with a Lee Classic Cast press - that thing is as solid as a rock so no regrets there. (I believe it's made in the US.). I started with Hornady dies and then began using Forster Ultra Micrometer seating dies. The Forster seating dies have a spring loaded sleeve that aligns the bullet with the case as the two are mated.

After having such a positive initial response to Forster products, I jumped at the chance to pick up a used Co-Ax press. I use it for seating and crimping my cartridges. It is known for creating the most concentric ammo out there. I use the Lee Factory Crimp dies for this final step in the process.

I decided to buy a Harbor Freight vibratory tumbler. It is very heavy duty and can be had for half of what you would pay for one of the name brand tumblers. I also purchased a 25 pound box of walnut shells which should last me for the rest of my natural life.
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  #56  
Old 08-20-2017, 10:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eric n View Post
I apologize for being Debbie Downer but.... Consistent 1/4" groups from an AR is asking a lot. Your dies and press are a small part of accuracy.
I am in no way dissuading you from reloading, your groups will most likely shrink and stay consistent. Hopefully, you enjoy it as it is a relaxing hobby but unrealistic expectations make for frustration.
Good luck in your decisions, welcome to the madness.
You're not being a downer, just cherry picking what I've posted throughout the thread

The point I was trying to make is, I want to fix the variable that is ammunition.

The other point that's been made is, I have the gear (IE rifle's, optics) that'll get me there alone.

For me, shooting is my most relaxing hobby and I'd like to set a goal for something to achieve.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 17+1 View Post
Start with a lee kit if you want to save money. If you have a little more cash to spend, go for a rock chucker kit. Both of these presses will handle 223 and 308, and will load MOA ammo if you know what you're doing.

Forget about the fancy pants presses and progressives for now. You need practice in basic reloading principles.
As stated many times throughout the forum, money is not an issue. I am not asking to save on my upfront cost; I want to buy what's considered the best in order to handload ammunition that is consistent from the first round to the last.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 17+1 View Post
Cherry picked 3 shot groups, common in the gun world.

They should instead load a mag and shoot 10-20 rounds in succession. Then we'll see how that semi auto military rifle really runs.
Don't cherry pick statements brother! A few have questioned whether my gear is up to par, it is. That's all.

Quote:
Originally Posted by noylj View Post
Read a few manuals and read them again.
I did so immediately when the Dillion 650 was brought up as well as the Co-Ax. I really like the fact that the Co-Ax doesn't require different shellholders.

Quote:
Arbor press and custom dies that match your rifle's chamber (see Wilson). Forster Co-Ax is my first and last choice for single-stage press; however, they are all more than good enough and you'll make ammunition just as accurate with a Lee Challenger press.
That's the answer I'm looking for! I don't compete so I don't think I'll go that far, but simply put if I wanted the best...I'd need a custom set.

Quote:
No, they really aren't until you get those hand-made custom dies that match your chamber.
Lee has won benchrest and long-distance matches, but most like some other feature of some other die.
If shooting bolt action, you need a full length size die, you will probably want a neck-only sizing die, and a seating die.
If shooting semi-auto, you need a full length size die (of any make) and a seating die (here, a special match seating die with cut-out for placing the bullet in the die might help). I adjust the sizing die until all cases just chamber and I get a custom seating plug that actually FITS the bullet I am using and does not touch the meplat at all.
Beyond that, you will want a bullet run-out tool that will let you "adjust" the bullet to minimize run-out and something like the Hornady Lock-N-Load Bullet Comparator. Also, you will want to lightly chamfer the inside and outside of every case mouth once when you get the case and once every time you trim the case.
Micrometers DO NOT make more accurate rounds, they just make it easier to return close to where the die was previously set. I prefer to retire the die for a pet load and get a new one, than to spend money on micrometers and look up some setting later.
Quote:
How consistent is THAT?
Accuracy is the rifle, the bullet, and the shooter. Everything else you are worrying about is a long drop in importance. Accuracy is often achieved by shooting more and not by tricks at the bench.
It's consistent enough that my rifle and I can shoot and the only reason why groups will change is due to the ammunition I'm using.

Quote:
All you need to do is wipe off the exterior of the case. Cleaning does not add to accuracy.
Quiet? Vibrators are loud.
My Thumler's Tumbler is quiet. My Ultrasonic is pretty much noiseless. If your cleaning needs mean absolutely clean and shiny cases, you'll have to put up with a Thumler and SS pins, as the US will thoroughly clean, but won't achieve the super-shiny factor so many want.

Of course, what you really want is a Dillon 1050 with RT 1500 trimmer installed...
This is where I need to learn something altogether.

I see threads/videos/etc. of reloaders either dry or wet tumbling and getting their brass as clean as possible.

Seeing this, I am led to believe that brass must be as clean as depicted online before one can reload.

I've also read conflicting information such as only needing to thoroughly clean ammunition if picked up out at the range or field. When shooting your own reloaded ammunition, no cleaning is necessary other than the primer pocket?

Again I'm starting out with gear first before I move on to brass prep, etc.
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Originally Posted by longrange1 View Post
my gun shoots better with shiny brass...plus not only does the shiny brass make me look like a pimp at the range if the sun catches it just right it blinds the guy next to me which improves my odds of winning the match.

Last edited by Kwikvette; 08-20-2017 at 10:21 AM..
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  #57  
Old 08-20-2017, 12:24 PM
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Micrometers DO NOT make more accurate rounds, they just make it easier to return close to where the die was previously set. I prefer to retire the die for a pet load and get a new one, than to spend money on micrometers and look up some setting later.
If you use one bullet type and load to a specific length like no longer than magazine length, then a micrometer seater aint gonna help you.

For 223, I use the 80 and 82 grain bullets. The Forsters micrometer seater helps me out since I use Berger, Sierra, and Hornady (while each one has a different ogive to base length). It also makes the process easier if you have to adjust the seating depth due to throat erosion.
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  #58  
Old 08-20-2017, 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Kwikvette View Post
This is where I need to learn something altogether.

I see threads/videos/etc. of reloaders either dry or wet tumbling and getting their brass as clean as possible.

Seeing this, I am led to believe that brass must be as clean as depicted online before one can reload.

I've also read conflicting information such as only needing to thoroughly clean ammunition if picked up out at the range or field. When shooting your own reloaded ammunition, no cleaning is necessary other than the primer pocket?

Again I'm starting out with gear first before I move on to brass prep, etc.
Some folks go to great lengths to get that shiny brass, its all about bling

I use once fired milspec brass so thats dull and grimy from the get go. I use walnut media with the CV750 along with a polish additive that I got from CH4D. After 2,000 pieces of brass the walnut media is toast.

If you use wet thumbling, that will strip clean the brass including the carbon from the case neck. So if you seating a bullet, just apply mica/dry neck lube to the case neck prior to bullet seating. If you don't then you will screw-up the bullet's copper jacket. BTDT
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  #59  
Old 08-20-2017, 12:46 PM
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Just an update;

I've got the Co-Ax single stage press in my cart (for 2 days now) but waiting until tomorrow to see if I can get a discount/coupon via phone from Midway.

I'm undecided on dies at the moment, but if I don't get the dies I'll add a few other items to the cart IE brass, projectiles, trimmer, etc.

I have a ton of brass sitting aside in a cardboard box and I may go as far as cleaning it all up on the side before I finish buying everything I need.
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my gun shoots better with shiny brass...plus not only does the shiny brass make me look like a pimp at the range if the sun catches it just right it blinds the guy next to me which improves my odds of winning the match.
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  #60  
Old 08-20-2017, 1:20 PM
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You have asked numerous times who makes the best press and dies. That is like asking who makes the best truck. You will get 5 opinions from 5 people which leave you more confused.
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  #61  
Old 08-20-2017, 1:53 PM
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Originally Posted by OpenSightsOnly View Post
Some folks go to great lengths to get that shiny brass, its all about bling

I use once fired milspec brass so thats dull and grimy from the get go. I use walnut media with the CV750 along with a polish additive that I got from CH4D. After 2,000 pieces of brass the walnut media is toast.

If you use wet thumbling, that will strip clean the brass including the carbon from the case neck. So if you seating a bullet, just apply mica/dry neck lube to the case neck prior to bullet seating. If you don't then you will screw-up the bullet's copper jacket. BTDT
if you or someone you know is screwing up jackets its from to much neck tension or tumbling to long...ive been stainless tumbling for about 5yrs now i run .003 neck tension and have no issues what so ever.

i tumble with yellow ajax a 1/4 teaspoon of lemi shine in cold water for 90mins and my brass has a light brown tint in the neck and case after tumbling.
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  #62  
Old 08-20-2017, 1:58 PM
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Buying the best is fine , but it is like buying a 300,000 car and not knowing how to drive . Start with a single stage or if you are that picky , a Lee hand loader .
Whatever you get , plan on hours setting up and messing up a few parts .
Like someone said - down time will really upset you .
What ever you get , buy a spare parts kit with it .
When I get a new caliber , I buy at least 2 sets of dies [ 3 if all I can find a the 2 die sets ]
From your post , you are in Monterey county - try to buy locally - where someone can say " this is wrong / broke and show you . "
It is worth driving to see someone use a press you are getting , even a single stage . Being able to ask why or how .
When I bought my loadmaster , I was back at store 4 or 5 saturdays in a row . [ That is when the Lee factory guy was there - I don't think they do that any more . ]
I would also go to a couple of gun shows and talk to people buying powder / primers / cases .
If you have M T cases , go to the range and talk to people picking up brass .
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Old 08-20-2017, 2:19 PM
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if you or someone you know is screwing up jackets its from to much neck tension or tumbling to long...ive been stainless tumbling for about 5yrs now i run .003 neck tension and have no issues what so ever.

i tumble with yellow ajax a 1/4 teaspoon of lemi shine in cold water for 90mins and my brass has a light brown tint in the neck and case after tumbling.
I bought a batch of processed brass (wet tumbled, sized, trimmed, etc) years ago when I first started reloading. That brass was clean and shiny from the case neck to the primer pocket.

I don't buy processed brass anymore as I process them myself. The only pre-processing I would allow is dry tumbling and de-priming if they do just that.
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  #64  
Old 08-20-2017, 2:35 PM
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Originally Posted by OpenSightsOnly View Post
I bought a batch of processed brass (wet tumbled, sized, trimmed, etc) years ago when I first started reloading. That brass was clean and shiny from the case neck to the primer pocket.

I don't buy processed brass anymore as I process them myself. The only pre-processing I would allow is dry tumbling and de-priming if they do just that.
yeah that sounds like tumbled to long and necks sized to small.
i bought some processed 300wm brass during the great drought that was the same way you describe...i had to resize all the necks before i could load it.
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  #65  
Old 08-20-2017, 3:21 PM
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Originally Posted by stand125 View Post
You have asked numerous times who makes the best press and dies. That is like asking who makes the best truck. You will get 5 opinions from 5 people which leave you more confused.
Didn't ask multiple times; others mentioned it to cover the main differences between one set and another. Some offer features that I won't be able to utilize until I know the heck I'm doing and even then it'll be awhile.

We already covered the "best car/truck" analogy earlier, you're skipping posts

But I do appreciate your input earlier. I value all the experience shared here.
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Originally Posted by longrange1 View Post
my gun shoots better with shiny brass...plus not only does the shiny brass make me look like a pimp at the range if the sun catches it just right it blinds the guy next to me which improves my odds of winning the match.
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Old 08-20-2017, 3:33 PM
longrange1 longrange1 is offline
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Fresh outta the SSTer...



Dried...it's more of a brown tint...



And everyone loves bling...




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Old 08-20-2017, 4:43 PM
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longrange1
What is the name of your tumbler ?
What are you using as a media and if just water / soap - how long ?
Is it easy to rinse off brass ?
Sometimes it takes me an hour just to rinse and remove pins [ F A tumbler ]
The other night it was so bad , I ordered a RCBS Case / Media Separator .
I normally use the vibrator , but it was busy .
FYI - the vibrator , tumbler and sonic are all on a harbor freight power strip with Xmas tree timers set at 2 hours .
I have been thinking about throw lube in the water without pins to try and remove a step . But was wondering if rising removes all the lube .
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Old 08-20-2017, 5:34 PM
longrange1 longrange1 is offline
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Tony this is the kit i bought...

http://www.stainlesstumblingmedia.co...e-package.html

The separator works very well to remove the pins from the cases but for me it's just as easy to rinse the cases in the drum and pull the cases out by hand and shake the pins out and rinse again as I'm pulling them out.

I've tried just about every combo with the mix you can think of...different soaps,water temps,tumble times ect and this is what works best out of everything I've tried....


100-150 308 family size cases...
1 teaspoon Yellow Ajax dish soap
1/4 teaspoon lemi shine
Cold water about 1/4" below top of drum
Tumble for 90 minutes

If your tumbling less brass just adjust the mix a little...50 cases I use half the above soap and lemi shine same amount of water and same tumble time...I've tumbled up to 200 cases with the mix above and they came out nice.

Easy way to know if your mix is off is if you have a lot of foam when done tumbling your using to much soap...if your brass is dull not enough lemi shine or very dirty pins...if you get discolored spots it's to much lemi shine...if your brass is shinny inside your tumbling to long.

My primer pockets are not all the way clean but then I've tumbled for 3.5hrs before and there was still carbon in the edges of the pockets...besides I hit them with a primer pocket uniforming tool every 2nd wash...and like I said I've had this tumbler about 5yrs now and it runs at least 3 times a month and no issues.


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Old 08-20-2017, 8:19 PM
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longrange1
Thanks - I bookmarked them . Never heard of them
Next week I am going to Mexico and if house / and ranch are O K I'll have money when I get back . I have a FA tumbler now , a FA vibrator couple HF tumbler [ little ones ] and a couple of sonic's .
I have a total of 8 others that reload here and at times everything is in use .
Right now I only cut keys for church , relatives and neighbors - so key cutting station will be gone soon after I get back .
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Old 08-20-2017, 8:30 PM
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longrange1
I ordered lemi shine - shipping is high , but I should be on their list now .
Thanks again
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Old 08-20-2017, 8:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kwikvette View Post
Just an update;

I've got the Co-Ax single stage press in my cart (for 2 days now) but waiting until tomorrow to see if I can get a discount/coupon via phone from Midway.

I'm undecided on dies at the moment, but if I don't get the dies I'll add a few other items to the cart IE brass, projectiles, trimmer, etc.

I have a ton of brass sitting aside in a cardboard box and I may go as far as cleaning it all up on the side before I finish buying everything I need.
i just bought a co-ax from cabelas using my svm cards:

http://www.cabelas.com/product/Forst...ess/741213.uts.

$280 plus active junky 10%
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Old 08-20-2017, 8:50 PM
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Originally Posted by NYT View Post
i just bought a co-ax from cabelas using my svm cards:

http://www.cabelas.com/product/Forst...ess/741213.uts.

$280 plus active junky 10%
Well, that does it.

Ordering the press and dispenser. Btw that promo code doesn't work?
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my gun shoots better with shiny brass...plus not only does the shiny brass make me look like a pimp at the range if the sun catches it just right it blinds the guy next to me which improves my odds of winning the match.
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Old 08-20-2017, 8:57 PM
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Dude pass on the single stage press, go directly to a progressive.
What is your time worth, with a progressive you will save lots of time and have lots of ammo.
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Old 08-20-2017, 9:06 PM
RestrictedColt RestrictedColt is offline
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My first cleaner was a Harbor Freight double drum rock tumbler, they also have a single drum. It's quieter than the couple vibratories and the much larger Frankford Aresenal tumbler I later bought for doing bigger batches. Ultrasonic is even quieter but from my research they seem to only work really well with commercial cleaning fluids. You could put a barrier around the rock tumbler and quiet it down some more.

With the Frankford Arsenal pins and just dish soap & water I have cases done within an hour or less most of the time, a dash of lemi shine gets them gleaming like jewelry. Getting the insides of cases clean requires pins, or some other media, and the higher the ratio of pins to brass the faster it happens. I've done small batches of .338 cases in about 30 minutes using lots of pins with 30ish cases.

As for the progressive vs. single; despite all the warnings not to I went straight to a progressive, a Hornady LNL AP. One can 'single stage' a progressive but can't go the other way around. If you're absolutely positive you'll never care to do fast easy volume then go single. One thing against progressives, other than the obvious cost & size, is that you'll likely have to tinker with it where a single stage is about as complicated as a hammer. I love being able to make ammo in less time than it takes to load into mags.

Last edited by RestrictedColt; 08-20-2017 at 9:13 PM..
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Old 08-20-2017, 9:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kwikvette View Post
Well, that does it.

Ordering the press and dispenser. Btw that promo code doesn't work?
no promo code, go here:

https://www.activejunky.com

sign up for an account and get 10% cash back.

svm cards here:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/100-Cabelas-...MAAOSwEzxYRtS6
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  #76  
Old 08-20-2017, 9:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigedski View Post
Dude pass on the single stage press, go directly to a progressive.
What is your time worth, with a progressive you will save lots of time and have lots of ammo.
I'll eventually go with a progressive for when I want to crank out plinking ammunition. That's when I'll come back and ask what the best progressive setup is

In the meantime...slow is smooth and smooth is fast

Quote:
Originally Posted by NYT View Post
no promo code, go here:

https://www.activejunky.com

sign up for an account and get 10% cash back.

svm cards here:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/100-Cabelas-...MAAOSwEzxYRtS6
Thanks!

Co-Ax single stage press and RCBS ChargerMaster combo ordered
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Originally Posted by longrange1 View Post
my gun shoots better with shiny brass...plus not only does the shiny brass make me look like a pimp at the range if the sun catches it just right it blinds the guy next to me which improves my odds of winning the match.
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  #77  
Old 08-21-2017, 2:05 AM
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Hmm. Yall need to work on your delivery. I see it took yall 2 PAGES, nearly three pages of posts all going back and forth to answer the question for Mr. Kwikvette.

This is terrible delivery time...

Okay, it is done and wrapped up. Glad to see you got your questions answered.

I really do not know why I posted thi- Oh yes I do. It is late and I am happy drunk after making a most excellent chocolate/peanut butter ganache cookie recipe for folks at work.
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Old 08-21-2017, 4:20 AM
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>I've also read conflicting information such as only needing to thoroughly clean ammunition if picked up out at the range or field. When shooting your own reloaded ammunition, no cleaning is necessary other than the primer pocket?

ALL you have to do is wipe off the case exterior, as far as cleaning goes, so you don't damage the sizing die. Range brass requires that you also look inside the case to be sure it is free of mud clods, insect nests, rocks, etc.
Primer pockets are NOT that important. I like to clean out any white powder in the pocket, but don't care about the black soot.
People LIKE shiny clean brass. It doesn't shoot any better.
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Old 08-21-2017, 7:08 AM
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noylj
I could care less how shiny my brass is .
Primer pockets and flash holes are always cleaned .
Probably about 80% of my reloads use magnum primers - they burn a little long and hotter . Less unburnt powder .
As for the cases , all are checked for splits , cracks , bludges , bent bases and dings .
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Old 08-21-2017, 7:22 AM
longrange1 longrange1 is offline
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Default Down the rabbit hole for a beginner

my gun shoots better with shiny brass...plus not only does the shiny brass make me look like a pimp at the range if the sun catches it just right it blinds the guy next to me which improves my odds of winning the match.

Last edited by longrange1; 08-21-2017 at 7:39 AM..
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