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  #41  
Old 01-28-2010, 4:12 PM
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Looks good.
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  #42  
Old 01-28-2010, 4:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JT1989 View Post
He said that the bullet drops as soon as it leaves the barrel. That's true, if the barrels pointed level.

Which is why he added, that we must aim UP in order for it to hit where we want. If he worded it your way he would sound like he's trying to be overly complex and pretentious.
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  #43  
Old 04-19-2010, 10:40 PM
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I'm going to print this out and hand them out to customers. It will save time at the shop.

You'd be amazed at how many people really haveno idea about how to use a scope- they don't know how to sight the thing in- they don't know where to put their head- I may as well be speaking japanese.
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  #44  
Old 05-04-2010, 5:32 PM
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Default Using your riflescope

This information is excellent! I have read extensively on the theoretical aspects of this topic but your perspective on the practical application and use has widened my understanding of the subject even more. I've also read your other informative topics like competitive shooting for beginners, ect. I keep a particular eye out for your posts. I'm new to this, so thanks a lot for sharing what you know.
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  #45  
Old 09-15-2010, 4:43 PM
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  #46  
Old 09-16-2010, 8:16 AM
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Great explanation of Parallax, thanks!
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  #47  
Old 01-16-2011, 3:30 PM
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thanks for the info. it was great reading.
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  #48  
Old 01-17-2011, 3:08 PM
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Very helpful info, thank you so much. He should be unbanned, he does so much for us even though his attitude isn't the best.
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  #49  
Old 02-27-2011, 9:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Religious Shooter View Post
That bugs me.

If you have the barrel pointed up, the bullet doesn't drop until it passes the apex.
Or you could say, gravity starts acting on the flight of the bullet as soon as it leaves the barrel.

Great thread!!
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  #50  
Old 02-05-2012, 10:15 AM
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Amazing load of info.
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  #51  
Old 02-05-2012, 10:31 AM
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Nice write-up so far. Thanks for the hard work.

Eventually I will print all this and put it into my data book.

Good job, sniper.
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  #52  
Old 02-08-2012, 7:23 PM
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Excellent info.. Thanks!
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  #53  
Old 03-18-2012, 9:02 PM
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tagged. good stuff!
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  #54  
Old 03-20-2012, 4:18 PM
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Great info. Points me in the right direction.
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  #55  
Old 06-28-2012, 9:58 AM
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this is just what I was looking for!!!
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  #56  
Old 06-28-2012, 10:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Religious Shooter View Post
That bugs me.

If you have the barrel pointed up, the bullet doesn't drop until it passes the apex.
All that good free work and someone always has to nit pick to try to prove he's smarter than the OP....and they always fail.
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  #57  
Old 06-29-2012, 6:43 AM
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Nice
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  #58  
Old 08-29-2012, 2:54 AM
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I saw a post in a 45/70 forum and they recommended sighting in the weapon at 150 yards. They referenced the bullet trajectory dope at http://www.chuckhawks.com/rifle_trajectory_table.htm that puts the MPBR (maximum point blank range) at 131 to 174 yards (and 150 yards being the median).

I am assuming much of the information you have written here is directly applicable to guns sighted in at 100 yards. How would it change (if at all) for a gun sighted in at 150 or say 300 yards (for a 300WinMag).

What do you see as the value of sighting in at or very near the MPBR?

~Mark in San Bruno
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  #59  
Old 08-29-2012, 9:05 PM
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Nice write up. Thanks.
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  #60  
Old 09-05-2012, 4:38 PM
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Great stuff!
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  #61  
Old 09-09-2012, 7:15 AM
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Very interesting and much appreciated write up; tagging this for future reference.
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  #62  
Old 09-24-2012, 1:42 AM
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tagged to read more later...good stuff from what i have read so far.
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  #63  
Old 10-18-2012, 12:22 PM
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WoW lot's a great info...

Thanks for the write-ups... I need to take some time to sit and concentrate on it all...

I'm starting to realize there is a shytload to learn about long distance shooting! I'm still studying proper scope mounting (It's a far cry from slapping an optic on an AR).

Getting into the real subject matter is going to be like school all over again
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  #64  
Old 10-22-2012, 8:52 PM
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  #65  
Old 10-23-2012, 6:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djandj View Post
See - this is why I don't do long range shooting. It's really more math than anything else. (I hate math).

Why can't we design a self adjusting scope with a built in range finder. So when I put the cross hairs on a target at 50 yards it adjusts to compensate and when I put them on a target at 100 and readjusts.

My $2.00 calculator can do scientific calculations, but my $1,000.00 scope needs a $2.00 calculator to hit anything (lol)
It's some easy math. Once you understand the concepts, see it explained a few different ways, and use it in practice a few times it becomes pretty simple.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ar15barrels View Post
Nope.
I'm just trying to explain things in plainer language than some of the books I have read.
Nice work. How about expanding the zeroing section to include alternate methods. Like zeroing for point blank range, or zeroing the top stadia line at 100 with a mildot reticle.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark94066 View Post
What do you see as the value of sighting in at or very near the MPBR?
Maximum point blank range will be defined as a cartridges ability to hit an X sized target with a center hold out to X distance. Lets take a 243 as an example with a 70gr Sierra Matchking doing 3100 fps. Point blank range on an 8" target is 320 yards, zero should be set to 275 yards. Bullet path never goes 4" above, or below, your line of sight. For an 18" target it would be 432 yards, zero should be set at 370 yards.

Last edited by Horton Fenty; 10-23-2012 at 6:15 AM..
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  #66  
Old 10-23-2012, 8:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Horton Fenty View Post
Nice work. How about expanding the zeroing section to include alternate methods. Like zeroing for point blank range, or zeroing the top stadia line at 100 with a mildot reticle.
I disagree with the concept of "point blank range" and choose not to accept a known error in bullet placement.

I have the ability to dial my scope's knobs or hold off with my scope's reticle for a specific distance so I do that to place my bullets as precisely as possible.

Most people prefer a reticle-centric zero.
It makes for an easier aiming as your eye tries to center things without you even conciously thinking about it.
Also, when you shift your zero away from center, you get larger aiming errors from canting the scope than when you use a reticle-centric zero for the range you are shooting at.
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Last edited by ar15barrels; 10-23-2012 at 8:24 AM..
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  #67  
Old 10-23-2012, 9:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ar15barrels View Post
I disagree with the concept of "point blank range" and choose not to accept a known error in bullet placement.
I think moving your zero out farther is a great option especially for a hunter. You know you can take a snap shot on a deer out to 300 yards and you'll hit. It's not accepting a know error, it's accepting a know flight path.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ar15barrels View Post
I have the ability to dial my scope's knobs or hold off with my scope's reticle for a specific distance so I do that to place my bullets as precisely as possible.
Of course you do, if you have a scope like that.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ar15barrels View Post
Most people prefer a reticle-centric zero.
It makes for an easier aiming as your eye tries to center things without you even conciously thinking about it.
Also, when you shift your zero away from center, you get larger aiming errors from canting the scope than when you use a reticle-centric zero for the range you are shooting at.
You lost me here. If your saying most people prefer to aim with the center I agree.
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  #68  
Old 10-23-2012, 10:15 AM
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  #69  
Old 10-23-2012, 12:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Horton Fenty View Post
Of course you do, if you have a scope like that.
I would not have it any other way.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Horton Fenty View Post
You lost me here.
It's more than just a "preference".
It's brain wiring.
Your brain aligns things in centric circles without concious effort.

That's also why target/peep sights work so well with round targets.
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  #70  
Old 06-06-2017, 5:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ar15barrels View Post
First off, most scopes are not centered or don't meet their advertised specs.
Leave yourself about 20moa at the bottom of the elevation travel to account for this.

Also, the optics are best in the middle so placing your 100yd zero at the extreme end of elevation travel means you are using the worst part of the glass at 100yds and again at 1300yds.
If you are only shooting at 600-1000yds, that will get you better image quality as you will be much closer to the center of the scope at those distances.

If you used up ALL of your usable elevation, you would not have any windage travel and it's often necessary to use some windage to get zeroed.
This windage eats up elevation travel at both ends of the elevation range due to the scope being round.
If you had a square scope, then the windage and elevation travels would not limit each other.

In your case, only having 45moa from center and using 5moa to get zeroed leaves you 40/50.
Then you are taking 20moa with the mount so you are at 60/30.
You could put another 10moa in the rings and be OK at 70/20.

So, Randall, this thread is 1688 days old. You posted the above comment on the Ruger thread.

Any thoughts to expanding this process ^^ in the context of "how to use your scope" ?
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  #71  
Old 06-06-2017, 5:33 PM
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Can not wait to apply this tracking test. Excellent, and gives you times learning your MOA or MIL adjustments and handling.
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Old 06-06-2017, 8:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freonr22 View Post
So, Randall, this thread is 1688 days old. You posted the above comment on the Ruger thread.

Any thoughts to expanding this process ^^ in the context of "how to use your scope" ?
Lesson to be learned is to just use a 20moa scope base and a good scope.
No need to worry about fine tuning the elevation because a 20moa base will keep you in the sweet spot of the scope if you have a quality scope with the necessary elevation travel.
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  #73  
Old 06-13-2017, 4:50 AM
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Originally Posted by sfarchitect View Post
I have a better command of the English language than most people
Is this a joke?
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  #74  
Old 06-19-2017, 3:07 PM
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Originally Posted by sfarchitect View Post
Language is a tool. Like any other tool, there are people who use it competently, and people who use it skillfully. Then there are those who should know better than to try to use it at all.

In answer to your question; No sir, you are.
Watch out! He uses language like a TOOL.
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  #75  
Old 06-19-2017, 6:29 PM
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Originally Posted by sfarchitect View Post
Language is a tool. Like any other tool, there are people who use it competently, and people who use it skillfully. Then there are those who should know better than to try to use it at all.

In answer to your question; No sir, you are.
Your response speaks volumes. Your false sense of being special is amusing.
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  #76  
Old 06-20-2017, 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by sfarchitect View Post
I have a better command of the English language than most people, nicely done sir.
A pronouncement of grammar superiority in the form of a run-on sentence.

Brilliant...

I love the smell of pseudointellectualism in the morning.
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  #77  
Old 06-20-2017, 10:16 AM
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Thumbs up
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  #78  
Old 05-28-2018, 11:35 AM
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  #79  
Old 08-12-2018, 8:12 AM
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Default Zero windage

What are the recommendations for zero'ing windage if you are doing it outside with wind?

For example if you are zeroing with a 4mph wind from the 9'o clock, do you zero this out or set for zero wind and confirm with hold over.

Last edited by seansmd; 08-13-2018 at 5:27 AM..
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