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  #1  
Old 06-20-2014, 7:42 PM
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Default Universal Milling Jig -1 Jig Mills both AR10 and AR15 - $99.99

Hello Calguns, We are proud to say that after a long time of preparation and building we are announcing the new Patent Pending M1 80% Universal Milling Jig!

USE COUPON CODE:CALGUNS2014 AND GET $20.00 OFF WITH FREE SHIPPING!!

COUPON CODE: CALGUNS2014



M1 Machining is proud to announce the official release of the Patent Pending Universal Milling Jig. M1 Machining pushes the limits with innovative ways to make owning an AR15 80% Lower Receiver and DPMS AR10 LR 308 80% Lower Receiver more affordable to the end users. Owning M1 Machining’s M1-80 Universal Jig eliminates you needing to purchase individual jigs for the AR15 and AR10 saving our customers time and money. M1 Machining also sells plates individually just in case the user damages the Jig during the milling process. M1 Machining’s Universal Milling Jig has many key features that make it stand out from the rest and makes us a top tier Manufacturing Company that is proud to say we are American Built!



- Made from 6061-T6 Billet Aluminum

- Comes with bolts and washers for easy assembly

- One top plate to eliminate multiple plates and confusion

- 2 washers included for increased support and Jig longevity

- Milling instructions included

- Milling tools needed to complete lower receiver (added cost)

- AMERICAN BUILT!

If you are interested in becoming a dealer please contact us 1.844.M1.BUILT ext 700.







Last edited by M1Machining; 07-08-2014 at 3:29 PM.. Reason: change add
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  #2  
Old 06-21-2014, 10:33 PM
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Bump
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  #3  
Old 06-25-2014, 9:16 PM
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bump
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  #4  
Old 07-01-2014, 8:00 PM
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BUMP
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  #5  
Old 07-02-2014, 3:05 PM
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BUMP
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  #6  
Old 07-08-2014, 6:08 AM
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Coupon code doesn't work
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  #7  
Old 07-08-2014, 3:30 PM
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Unfortunately, the coupon code USA2014 expired as of the 6th of July. Coupon Code Calguns2014 for $20 off with free shipping is still available.
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  #8  
Old 07-08-2014, 4:38 PM
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Awesome just placed order
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  #9  
Old 07-08-2014, 5:01 PM
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Thank you for your order, we appreciate your business and patience with this matter!
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  #10  
Old 07-14-2014, 5:51 PM
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Is there any way to check on my order. I received an email on the 8th with a tracking number, now on the 14th usps tracking still shows pre shipment, electronic info received. Order #100000076. Thanks.
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  #11  
Old 07-16-2014, 5:30 PM
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Just an update m1 got everything straightened out. Thanks
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  #12  
Old 07-24-2014, 8:57 PM
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$109 spent.... Lets see how it goes....

My only weak knowledge area is end mill bit choice for my forged Al. I read that 4 flute carbide TiCN is best for keeping cool, but all downloaded instructions have just carbide 4 flute; M1 says 2 flute.

Carbide 3 flute and WD40 to cool?
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  #13  
Old 07-25-2014, 6:26 AM
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I haven't started milling mine out yet but I got a 2 flute end mill. I probably wont have time to try it out till next week. I will let you know how it goes.
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  #14  
Old 07-25-2014, 11:37 AM
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ok perfect 2 flute endmills are great for aluminum
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  #15  
Old 07-25-2014, 11:40 AM
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Hello William, yes you never want to use 4 flut end mills on aluminum, the max I would say is 3 flute and dont waste your money on Coatings as its not needed when cutting aluminum. Ill post a video of our HAAS VFSS cutting at 650 inches a minute with a 3/4 end mill that is 2 flute uncoated. You wont find many shops running these kinds of speeds!!
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  #16  
Old 07-25-2014, 8:46 PM
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Well, I watched 3 hours of videos and equal time reading last night after ordering. I am new to milling, but have good mechanical empathy along with a well planned out "measure twice..." work ethic as I am always working on other people's stuff at my bike shop. Just going to invest on a better set of measuring tools.

I decided to make a router plate and go the plunge router method, adapting ideas from the Easy Jig setup. The M1M jig already has recessed screws so that helps, but it wouldn't have been too hard to do it myself.

Thank you for the fluting advice, but does that transfer over to the speeds a typical router will produce? I'm ok with spending more time on it if it produces a better finish.

Last edited by williamcm; 07-25-2014 at 8:49 PM..
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  #17  
Old 07-26-2014, 1:04 PM
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2 flutes gives a nice finish. How many RPM's is your router?
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  #18  
Old 07-27-2014, 4:32 AM
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Will this Jig work with any 80% lower or only M1 80% lowers?

I'm looking for a jig to complete my 80% DPMS AR308 lower.
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  #19  
Old 07-27-2014, 1:47 PM
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Who is the maker of the AR308
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  #20  
Old 07-28-2014, 2:16 AM
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Ares Armor
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  #21  
Old 07-28-2014, 8:05 AM
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The jig is not a direct fit for the ares armor lower. I notched the jig to fit. Kind of a pita. Still holds ar 15 lowers good. The other problem with the ares lower and this jig is the safety selector hole looks off center. I don't have a lower parts kit yet to test. From what I have read with the 308 80% lower this is common because there isn't an actual standard blue print like there is for the ar15. As long as it functions I'm not to worried. Looking back though with this jig the holes for the ar15 look like they may match the safety selector of the ares ar308 lower better.
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  #22  
Old 07-29-2014, 7:32 PM
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I can bring it by and we can check it out....
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  #23  
Old 08-06-2014, 3:45 PM
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Something seems askew...
Is it suppose to be crooked like this? Spent an hour adjusting it, but couldn't get a square fit. One spacer came to me crushed by a vice so I had to use it beside the screw. Using a TM lower.










drop something?







Last edited by williamcm; 08-06-2014 at 7:15 PM..
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  #24  
Old 08-06-2014, 7:39 PM
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Lol in a perfect world everything matches perfect. I made new spacers with some 3/8 copper to square up a ares ar308 lower I have. The fire control pocket looks good waiting on a lower parts kit to check everything. The way I look at it it's still a home build and you gotta tweek things a little to make it work. Also check the alignment of your safety selector detent. To me I think using the ar 15 holes would have been better for mine.
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  #25  
Old 08-06-2014, 8:06 PM
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Oh, yeah. I know some tweaking would be needed for various lowers, but things should mostly be uniform on the AR15 platform. I intended to do some tweaking and used my vernier depth to verify. My problem is that the spacers provided pull the side plates so much that the top plate doesn't line up at all. I had to loosen everything, finagle, then put it together while putting big stress on the aluminum threads.

The pictures don't show the worry I had while assembling the unit.

I milled a polymer lower yesterday using the jig. When my parts kit comes in hopefully tomorrow, I will update my results.
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  #26  
Old 08-06-2014, 10:55 PM
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Yeah it took me a little while to square everything up with the 308 lower. You have to leave everything loose and use a square to lock down the top plate before you lock down the side plates. I played with mine for a while before I got it lined up. I did it over and over again this way and it lined up every time. I tightened up the sides and measured the distance of the side plates on the top of the lower and made some spacers with some 3/8 copper to make the bottom of the jig measure the same. Then I used a square on the bottom of the jig where it is gonna be locked down in a vise to line it up before tightening the top plate. This seemed to work good. Lined up the same every time I tried it. Again trial and error it's a home build. Every way I look at it a challenge should be expected.
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  #27  
Old 08-06-2014, 11:38 PM
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All of that adjusting doesn't account for the misalignment of the top plate screws with the spacers on the bottom. Also, a spacer provided was crushed with a vice by the machine operator. The top just isn't square with the bottom.

...

Last edited by williamcm; 08-07-2014 at 1:04 AM.. Reason: hasty narrative
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  #28  
Old 08-07-2014, 6:23 AM
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I agree mine was not square at first. Without making new spacers I couldn't get it even close. Once I made new spacers there was enough play in the top plate to shift it into place.
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  #29  
Old 08-11-2014, 8:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gestudo1 View Post
I agree mine was not square at first. Without making new spacers I couldn't get it even close. Once I made new spacers there was enough play in the top plate to shift it into place.
Just curious if you have any pics of your setup on a lower and what brand? I was thinking about assembling the top plate on the sides first. Then putting a really stiff spring between the plates, around the bottom screws, while pushing a wooden wedge or shim inside to hold the receiver more firmly. Until then, I think the jig plates are only perfect and square for their own M1 shaped lower...
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  #30  
Old 08-11-2014, 11:29 AM
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I have an ares ar 308 lower I started with had to stop for a few days. I also have a couple of m1's ar15s that I have yet to start. I measured the width of the ares lower compared to a kaiser defense lower when I was trying to square up the lower at first and the ares was a hair wider. I haven't measured the m1 lowers yet. If I get time when I get home I will check it out and try to post some pictures.
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