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  #1  
Old 12-22-2013, 5:04 PM
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Default Your thoughts on automotive grease...

I find myself buying many lubricant products in an effort to find the "best" one. Now, I appreciate everyone will have their favorites and what works best for them and their usage conditions. I've tried various products, mpro7, slip 2000 regular and ewl, breakfree clp, I skipped the froglube - but was tempted. I read somewhere on here that some folks simply use motor oil. That'd be cheaper for sure. Anyway, on to the point of this thread. I picked up a tube of Royal purple grease. The link is below. I figured this might be good for the rails or a wipe down for storage purposes. Now that I have it I'm wondering if it's safe for gun finishes. Any thoughts on utility and safety for finishes would be appreciated. Thanks.

http://www.amazon.com/Royal-Purple-P...+purple+grease
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Old 12-22-2013, 5:13 PM
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the problem with some forms of automotive greases is they can be harmful to wood and rubber. as far as metal and finish and movement not really sure. but depending on what grips you have, some will swell rubber and some will stain wood. also don't know the effects on plastic, but brake and carb cleaner are not good for poly frame guns.
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Old 12-22-2013, 5:56 PM
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Originally Posted by sparrow View Post
the problem with some forms of automotive greases is they can be harmful to wood and rubber. as far as metal and finish and movement not really sure. but depending on what grips you have, some will swell rubber and some will stain wood. also don't know the effects on plastic, but brake and carb cleaner are not good for poly frame guns.
Good points, thanks!
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  #4  
Old 12-22-2013, 6:51 PM
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As long as you don't let your gun get dry, it's fine.

Most range days, courses, lubrication is not an issue. Just hit it on a water break.

In combat, you run out of ammo long before you ever have to worry about running out of lube if you lubed it properly in the first place.
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  #5  
Old 12-22-2013, 8:09 PM
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High temp brake grease, but it will stain.
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  #6  
Old 12-22-2013, 8:39 PM
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I use your basic red lithium automotive grease on my M1A, no problems. Same for my AKs.
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Old 12-22-2013, 8:46 PM
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Mobil 1, synthetic grease.
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  #8  
Old 12-22-2013, 9:11 PM
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I use mobil 1 on most of my guns. My AR's I run 60w mobil 1 oil. Never had an issue at all.
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Old 12-22-2013, 9:20 PM
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Thanks for the replies. Grease/Mobil 1 in lieu of gun oil, correct?
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Last edited by AregularGuy; 12-22-2013 at 9:21 PM.. Reason: typo
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  #10  
Old 12-22-2013, 10:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AregularGuy View Post
Thanks for the replies. Grease/Mobil 1 in lieu of gun oil, correct?

Grease the "rubby bits", oil the "turny parts"
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  #11  
Old 12-22-2013, 10:04 PM
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No... Not if you want the best for your weapon.
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  #12  
Old 12-22-2013, 10:09 PM
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Grease the "rubby bits", oil the "turny parts"
That's gonna be someone's sig... just watch.
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  #13  
Old 12-22-2013, 10:13 PM
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I use snake oil and unicorn tears, because guns didn't last five minutes before Frog Lube was invented.


I really don't sweat it. Hoppe's, Mobile 1… whatever's nearer. I do prefer grease if I have some, but I'm wholly unconvinced it really matters. Just keep the thing lubed.
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  #14  
Old 12-22-2013, 10:33 PM
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Forget all the snake oil out there. Save yourself a lot of money by stopping into Wallyworld and grab one quart of Mobil 1 Synthetic motor oil and a tube of Mobil 1 grease. Your guns can bathe in it. Ten or so years with no problems.
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  #15  
Old 12-22-2013, 10:36 PM
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I use red high pressure grease from Wally world on all my guns, works great! The $5 tub will last a lifetime.
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  #16  
Old 12-22-2013, 11:17 PM
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I use Amsoil synthetic motor oil and/or grease.
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  #17  
Old 12-23-2013, 12:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bombadillo View Post
I use mobil 1 on most of my guns. My AR's I run 60w mobil 1 oil. Never had an issue at all.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackhorse2010 View Post
Grease the "rubby bits", oil the "turny parts"
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4Defense View Post
Forget all the snake oil out there. Save yourself a lot of money by stopping into Wallyworld and grab one quart of Mobil 1 Synthetic motor oil and a tube of Mobil 1 grease. Your guns can bathe in it. Ten or so years with no problems.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sd_shooter View Post
I use red high pressure grease from Wally world on all my guns, works great! The $5 tub will last a lifetime.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Elwood_Blues View Post
I use Amsoil synthetic motor oil and/or grease.
A whole lot of win in this thread.
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  #18  
Old 12-23-2013, 12:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackhorse2010 View Post
Grease the "rubby bits", oil the "turny parts"
This made me smile.
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  #19  
Old 12-23-2013, 12:45 AM
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I use CorossionX as my lube and protectant. It lasts through a day at the range or out in the desert but I am not sure how well it will hold-up say, if I did a carbine course.

Just remember that there is more that it isn't just about lubrication- it's also about anti-corrosion.

I guess if it was a SHTF situation, I would use a good high performance synthetic grease instead of Corossion X but I would keep the exterior of the gun and the interior of the barrel and the small mechanisms oiled with Corossion X since that stuff is awesome.
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  #20  
Old 12-23-2013, 12:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gemini Effect View Post
I use CorossionX as my lube and protectant. It lasts through a day at the range or out in the desert but I am not sure how well it will hold-up say, if I did a carbine course.

Just remember that there is more that it isn't just about lubrication- it's also about anti-corrosion.

I guess if it was a SHTF situation, I would use a good high performance synthetic grease instead of Corrosion X but I would keep the exterior of the gun and the interior of the barrel and the small mechanisms oiled with Corrosion X since that stuff is awesome.
Its probably just re branded cosmoline, that stuff is the ultimate corrosion protection.
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  #21  
Old 12-23-2013, 1:10 AM
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I just use plain moly wheel bearing grease. I figure if it's good enough to run wheel bearings for 50,000 miles, it's good enough to run my pistol and AR slide and bolt for a few hundred rounds before I clean and relube it. It's something like 10 bucks for a full pound, and I've used less than a quarter ounce of it in the last 5 years. The full pound will last a lifetime.
If the lube isn't the absolute best and a slide wears out after 1,000,000 rounds vs 950,000 rounds, it'll have costed me a thousand times what the gun costs in ammo before I have to replace a 200-300 dollar part. I'd say it's worth it to buy cheap, effective lube.
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  #22  
Old 12-23-2013, 1:31 AM
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Breakfree and Dr. Bronner are all I know and all I need to know.

Use whatever you like, most automotive products are fine, most firearm marketed products are fine, many times they are one and the same.
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  #23  
Old 12-23-2013, 1:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ERdept View Post
Mobil 1, synthetic grease.
I also use this--^ and never had a problem with it.
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Old 12-23-2013, 4:11 AM
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Great ideas here and some very good points, thanks. Just so I got it, people are actually wiping their exteriors down with these various products and no harm to the finish? I would imagine that's the case or you all would not be using them.
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  #25  
Old 12-23-2013, 4:21 AM
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Have always thought commercial gun oil/grease products are rip-offs
way too pricey
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  #26  
Old 12-23-2013, 7:48 AM
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I am currently running 2 pistols on auto grease and the rest with oil to see if there are any noticeable differences. So far I am leaning toward the grease.


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  #27  
Old 12-23-2013, 8:40 AM
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What's wrong with good ol' Lubriplate 130-A? The stuff is cheap and a single can is more than enough for an arsenal. I bought a can of this for $10 off the net a year ago, use it liberally on stored firearms, and still have a shatload of it. Works great on all the "rubby bits".

Hell, I went to an antiques fair and found a full original can of Viet Nam vintage Lubriplate for $3!!! Of course this was after I bought the new stuff, so now I have 2 1lb cans of grease. I've got enough for a lifetime!

Midway has it
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/446...can?cm_vc=U112

Brownells has it cheaper
http://www.brownells.com/gun-cleanin...r_1=LUBRIPLATE
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Old 12-23-2013, 8:53 AM
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This is what I run on everything from Hi-points to $30k machine guns.



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Old 12-23-2013, 9:19 AM
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What's wrong with good ol' Rem oil? It's not a space shuttle. Sheesh.
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Old 12-23-2013, 9:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AregularGuy View Post
Great ideas here and some very good points, thanks. Just so I got it, people are actually wiping their exteriors down with these various products and no harm to the finish? I would imagine that's the case or you all would not be using them.
People are people and everyone has their own ideas on what works for them.
I use Mil Comm TW25b on my rails, Mobil 1 on everything else, and Gunzilla for my CLP.

I tried Frog Lube for a bit. It worked fine, but after I saw mold growing inside of a Nighthawk's grips, I switched.

Whatever you choose, just lube it.
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Old 12-23-2013, 9:24 AM
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I run Frog Lube in my engine. My exhaust smells like mint!!!
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Old 12-23-2013, 10:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackhorse2010 View Post
Grease the "rubby bits", oil the "turny parts"

^^^ This. about the only thing I stay away from is the thick brown automotive GP grease. I've taken apart fishing reels that had been stored with it and the stuff had dried into a yukkie, non slippery crud.
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Old 12-23-2013, 12:10 PM
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I use Mobil 1 Syth gear oil. 9 bucks for a QT.
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Old 12-23-2013, 12:30 PM
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Lubriplate was good enough for my old issue M1, I figure it's good enough for what I have now. ...Well before I ran out recently.

Good to go in hot or cold weather...

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Old 12-23-2013, 1:18 PM
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Red Lithium for parts that rub or are subjected to extreme operational pressures.
Oil either hoppes or motor oil for parts that need slick protection.

When you really think about it, your firearm isnt much different than a car engine. Pressure, Heat, Carbon Buildup occur in both, greases and oils will move freely between them. Generally speaking most firearms oils and greases trend towards the "temporary" while automotive trend towards "enduring" at the cost of low temperature performance.

Poly Guns may require a whole different ball game to AKs, alum and steel ARs, and good old fashioned war iron.

A good example is the the 1911 and the M-52 run red lithium on high friction parts, but when it gets cold (freezing, 32F) it CAN cause the gun to cycle slowly, below zero is right out.

There is no "magic" single lube. Differing temps require differing greases and oils. Summer may be a different blend than Winter. Find your need and fit the grease and oil to it.

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Old 12-23-2013, 1:35 PM
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I used Hoppes #9 and CLP. Now for my metal gun rails I use Dupont Krytox.
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Old 12-23-2013, 1:48 PM
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RIA 1911, Glock, AR all have thousands of rounds through it. I have not experienced any qualitative difference between different lubes (although I run platforms that aren't picky on lubrication) so I use the ones that seem to be the least caustic and environmentally friendly.
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  #38  
Old 12-23-2013, 2:33 PM
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I have used nothing but CLP on everything I own. I still get it for free so no need to change at this point.
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Old 12-23-2013, 3:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NytWolf View Post
What's wrong with good ol' Rem oil? It's not a space shuttle. Sheesh.
Not sure if trolling but......Rem Oil sucks huge donkey balls.
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Old 12-23-2013, 3:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Term View Post
Its probably just re branded cosmoline, that stuff is the ultimate corrosion protection.
Apparently, Corossion X was created for the aerospace industry then it found its way into the maritime industry and then defense.

People put it in air comrpessors and fog their aiframes of their personal planes with it.

I don't think it is from cosmoline.
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