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  #1  
Old 07-12-2013, 2:14 PM
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Question Sand/Bead Blasting help...

I want to go for the raw look and need to have my stripped upper and lower sand or bead blasted.

Questions:

Any issue with doing this?

What method would be best to avoid any media being left behind where a detent belongs?

Anyone in the San Diego area that you guys can recommend?

And finally, what should I expect someone to charge for this?

Thanks!
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  #2  
Old 07-12-2013, 10:52 PM
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If you fully strip the upper and lower of all hardware before blasting and degrease it of all the oil, it is very easy to remove all the blasting media with pressurized air after blasting.

Do NOT blast the inside of the upper receiver.
The anodizing and the dry lube are there for a reason.
I suggest installing a sacrificial ejection port cover during blasting.

I would charge about $40 to sand or glass bead blast an upper and a lower if you brought them over to me for the job.
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  #3  
Old 07-15-2013, 11:33 AM
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whose offering blast work? Randall are u? pm me
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Old 07-15-2013, 12:42 PM
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I'll have my new (replacing old one) cabinet setup today. I'm in Orange.
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Old 07-15-2013, 1:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hellayella View Post
whose offering blast work? Randall are u? pm me
I am not "offering" it, but I do it upon request.
I have 180 grit aluminum oxide or glass beads.
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  #6  
Old 07-15-2013, 2:26 PM
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pm'd
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  #7  
Old 07-15-2013, 8:21 PM
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Thanks Randall and couch. Randall, I may give you shout in the next week or two to set something up.
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Old 07-16-2013, 4:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David-K View Post
I want to go for the raw look and need to have my stripped upper and lower sand or bead blasted.

Questions:

Any issue with doing this?

What method would be best to avoid any media being left behind where a detent belongs?

Anyone in the San Diego area that you guys can recommend?

And finally, what should I expect someone to charge for this?

Thanks!
A to Z metal finishing off Marimar rd on Cabot st.
Ask for Anthony or Kent.
Nice people, fair prices, good work.
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Old 07-20-2013, 1:32 AM
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I highly recommend asking them to plug the holes

Takedown pin holes .251 +/- .001
Trigger, and hammer pin holes .157 +/- .001
Safety selector hole .376 +/- .001

The other holes won't matter because they aren't tight tolerances. It is important to NOT remove the anodize in those holes for 2 reasons.
1) stripping the anodize will open all those holes around .005 or more. this will make your gun sloppy.
2) bare aluminum is soft. The anodize is protecting them.

To also like the "raw" look. But sand, bead, or alumina blasting will put a pretty texture. The downfall is that you will see scratches everywhere.

I'd recommend having them plug the important holes. Then strip it. And if you like the stripped look, cool!! If not, then polish, or scotch brite it.

Good luck
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  #10  
Old 07-20-2013, 6:34 AM
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Broken - Thanks for the tip as I too was wondering about some of the media getting stuck in some of those tight places.
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  #11  
Old 07-20-2013, 11:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David-K View Post
Broken - Thanks for the tip as I too was wondering about some of the media getting stuck in some of those tight places.
Air gun fixes that easily.
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Old 07-20-2013, 12:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Broken Arms View Post
1) stripping the anodize will open all those holes around .005 or more. this will make your gun sloppy.
I'm calling BS on the 0.005" spec.
Talk to your plater and he can control the etching process WAY better than that.

Also, they can purposely etch before hard anodizing to open up the dimensions that the hard anodizing closes up.
You drill the holes larger to accommodate type III than you do for type II unless you have them etch to accommodate the plating thickness.
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Glock, XD and M&P pistols, Benelli and Remington shotguns: barrel, sight, trigger and receiver work.
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  #13  
Old 07-21-2013, 3:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ar15barrels View Post
I'm calling BS on the 0.005" spec.
Talk to your plater and he can control the etching process WAY better than that.

Also, they can purposely etch before hard anodizing to open up the dimensions that the hard anodizing closes up.
You drill the holes larger to accommodate type III than you do for type II unless you have them etch to accommodate the plating thickness.


.251+.002+.002 = .255

It's simple math.

Maybe you misunderstood that he has anodized parts, and wants to remove the anodize.
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Old 07-21-2013, 3:29 AM
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Or maybe I misunderstood? David, are your parts already anodized?
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  #15  
Old 07-21-2013, 10:31 AM
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Type II anodizing is 0.0002" thick.
Type III is 0.002" thick.
The pre-anodized 80% receivers are almost all type II anodizing.
If its type III anodizing, that means the holes will get etched open and then re-anodizing type III again will bring them back down to spec they started at.

If the receiver is type II now and he etched that off, the new type II plating will fix that too.
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AR work: www.ar15barrels.com
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Foreign Semi Autos: www.akbarrels.com
Glock, XD and M&P pistols, Benelli and Remington shotguns: barrel, sight, trigger and receiver work.
Most work performed while-you-wait, evening and weekend appointments available.
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Last edited by ar15barrels; 07-21-2013 at 10:33 AM..
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  #16  
Old 07-21-2013, 10:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Broken Arms View Post
Or maybe I misunderstood? David, are your parts already anodized?
He never said they were anodized now.
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AR work: www.ar15barrels.com
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Foreign Semi Autos: www.akbarrels.com
Glock, XD and M&P pistols, Benelli and Remington shotguns: barrel, sight, trigger and receiver work.
Most work performed while-you-wait, evening and weekend appointments available.
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  #17  
Old 07-21-2013, 11:30 AM
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I've yet to run across receivers that are type II. But I'll believe you when you say you've seen that.

I was under the assumption that his receivers were already anodized when he said "I want to go for the raw look"
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  #18  
Old 07-21-2013, 4:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Broken Arms View Post
I've yet to run across receivers that are type II. But I'll believe you when you say you've seen that.

I was under the assumption that his receivers were already anodized when he said "I want to go for the raw look"
Some of the 80% receivers are being done in type II just so they can be sold as "already anodized" to people that won't know the difference between type II or type III.
The anodizing is just for looks since it don't be protecting all the holes and slots that are being completed after the anodizing...
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Glock, XD and M&P pistols, Benelli and Remington shotguns: barrel, sight, trigger and receiver work.
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  #19  
Old 07-21-2013, 4:43 PM
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Really wasn't my intention to start an argument with my question. However, to clarify, my upper and lower receivers are currently anodized. When I mentioned "stripped" I was referring to them being "stripped of all parts" in order to be ready for sand blasting or whatever process will work best in order to achieve that raw aluminum look.
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  #20  
Old 07-24-2013, 10:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ar15barrels View Post
Type II anodizing is 0.0002" thick.
Type III is 0.002" thick.
The pre-anodized 80% receivers are almost all type II anodizing.
If its type III anodizing, that means the holes will get etched open and then re-anodizing type III again will bring them back down to spec they started at.

If the receiver is type II now and he etched that off, the new type II plating will fix that too.
Type III penetrates the material by .001" and builds on the surface by .001" giving the overall thickness of .002". If you remove the Type III anodize out of a hole you are removing .004" off the diameter. Adding Type III to the same hole will only bring the diameter back up .002" total (since .002" total is penetrating the new hole...

Starting with Type III, removing then reanodizing you'r going to end up with holes that are .002" larger than before, unless they have figured out some way to suck the anodize out of the material without removing the material.

Last edited by couch; 07-24-2013 at 3:35 PM..
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  #21  
Old 07-26-2013, 11:13 PM
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Simple way to protect the holes. Leave the FCG pins in place during the blasting. No good reason to remove any material from this area unless your planning on using oversized pins.
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