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  #121  
Old 10-05-2012, 8:02 PM
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Default Only paint....impervious to solvents

Attachment 172779

Last edited by monorailboy; 09-07-2013 at 7:09 AM..
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  #122  
Old 10-14-2012, 11:30 AM
Bamfak47 Bamfak47 is offline
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I did the crayon thing and it looks great but I do have a white glossy hazy receiver now. Does anyone know how to remove this white glossy finnish that is now on my receiver?
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  #123  
Old 11-11-2012, 3:11 PM
Fixmy59bug Fixmy59bug is offline
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Wow.

Thank you very much for this idea. I just finished my XD9 and XD40.

I used Reflex Silver touch up paint from a Vw I used to have and it worked great.

Even had the clear coat touch up to protect and seal it.

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  #124  
Old 12-03-2012, 5:12 PM
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Very informative thread.
Thank you for sharing.
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  #125  
Old 12-04-2012, 8:27 PM
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Great tips--thank you. I'm bald so I don't have a hair dryer to dry the water for method 3! Wait, my daughter has one I can use.
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  #126  
Old 01-04-2013, 7:39 AM
Coolguy101 Coolguy101 is offline
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The problem with paint sticks, crayons, acrylic paint, and the like is they will all come off when they come in contact with cleaning solvents.

I find it almost impossible to thoroughly clean my gun without somehow getting cleaning solvent on my painted areas I don't want to come off, and I had to keep touching them up.

I went to hobby shops and craft stores and asked where I could get paint that wouldn't come off with solvent, and after I got the puzzled looks out of the way they finally directed me to a solution of the most durable color paint around.

For a true "permanent" finish, you need to use automotive paint, and by automotive I mean the paint they use to paint your car. It can take some work to get some, but I found by going to a body shop where they paint cars they had the paint I needed. By applying a clear coat on top of that paint, it really helps ensure that your paint won't come off. It can be sort of shiny,but no shinier than a normal acrylic paint.

There are epoxy paints that may be even more durable, but they really aren't suited for this application. Car paint is the best IMO.
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  #127  
Old 02-18-2013, 7:26 PM
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Method #2 is much easier with a Whiteout pen.
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  #128  
Old 03-05-2013, 5:14 PM
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Has anyone had any luck doing this to raw aluminum?

I need to engrave some polished parts and black letter fill them. Other that. The bare aluminum in the engraving, there is no anodize, primer, paint, etc for this to stick to. I need a permanent marking method for these parts. None firearm related but very similar process.
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  #129  
Old 03-14-2013, 3:27 PM
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Finished up the parts last week. Engraved the parts .005" deep with a .010" diameter ball endmill. Ended up using a fine Sharpie paint pen. Cleaned the parts really well then filled the engraving. Let it dry overnight then lapped the parts on a granite plate with worn 600 paper. Very happy with the results.






These were a limited run for a collaboration with G-Shock Watches.

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  #130  
Old 06-30-2013, 7:53 PM
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Quickest way I removed china pen from receiver since I wanted to go back to the "Black Rifle" look:
Old tooth brush dipped in some Hoppes No.9
Scrubbed it up, and wiped clean with rem oil patch!

Literally took but 2 minutes maybe! After trying for 30 relentless minutes with a thumb tac which was still leaving residue I thought of this! Just a heads up for anyone who gets tired of it
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  #131  
Old 12-10-2013, 8:18 PM
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What I wound up using was Testors Enamel paint that you can pickup at any hobby store.

I painted the grooves, then while still wet, wiped down with a rag with some 70% alcohol to get the excess paint off. After that, 10 minutes in front of a space heater to dry up the paint and then (carefully) wiped down the metal with some Hoppes on a rag. This technique worked really well to keep the paint in the markings and they came out VERY well. Will post pics later.
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  #132  
Old 12-17-2013, 5:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shda5582 View Post
What I wound up using was Testors Enamel paint that you can pickup at any hobby store.

I painted the grooves, then while still wet, wiped down with a rag with some 70% alcohol to get the excess paint off. After that, 10 minutes in front of a space heater to dry up the paint and then (carefully) wiped down the metal with some Hoppes on a rag. This technique worked really well to keep the paint in the markings and they came out VERY well. Will post pics later.
I've always done mine that way, works fine, except I don't use a space heater, just give it a bit of time to flash dry, do a very gentle partial cleanup and then let it dry overnight and give it a good cleanup with alcohol. I use a toothpick to 'paint' engravings. Testors has tons of colors to choose from!

Here are a few pics of some of mine that have been done..

Before pics of an AR-15 lower






and some after coloring pics...








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  #133  
Old 02-16-2015, 9:58 PM
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Tagged
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  #134  
Old 06-30-2015, 6:43 PM
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I just recently used oil pastels on my rifles with a coating of clp afterwards- it worked out pretty nicely- like im 95% satisfied with the results, and the effort was pretty minimal. I have a few spots where the color is "shallow" or "thin", but they are only noticed by the most scrutinizing eye. From grainy parts of the pastel, I guess. But overall, looks great. would post pics, but im ****ing lazy.
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  #135  
Old 08-02-2016, 8:21 PM
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I know this is an old thread, but I've been wanting to do this for about 2yrs and have finally gotten around to doing it. I saw what sandeggo did with the CalGuns logo and loved it. It's really what made me get a CG lower

I used Testors enamel paint. Used a 20/0 brush from Hobby Town (finest they had). I did the star and words first by globing it on from a vid. The bear and grass I knew I had to be careful with so they didn't run into each other, so used just the tip of the brush to control the paint better. Came out pretty good. I used this vid:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QkSxSGw2FOo

I was originally going to use some silicone to create a barrier between the brown and green, but after a small test spot on the other side of the receiver (I should've done it at the grip mount which would've been covered up), I found it wouldn't work and left a small spot after drying for about 10 mins. However, non-acetone took it off enough and the very faint spot should disappear with use. I just was very careful where the feet and grass touched

The green, through wiping, ran a bit into the white lettering, so redid the lettering. I would suggest doing dark colors first and work your way to lighter colors if you're doing any multi coloring that are close to each other

I wish the paint was smoother, but not quite sure how to smooth it out without touching up, but you really don't notice it if you're more than 2ft away anyway

I plan on doing another CG lower with a diff color scheme. When JD is back in stock, I'll post up that one



If anyone in the IE wants some painting done, I'm more than happy to help
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