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  #41  
Old 05-07-2013, 4:22 PM
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Send it back in. Vortex CS is top notch. Should get a new one or yours fixed in 2 weeks.
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  #42  
Old 05-30-2013, 1:15 AM
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OP... I totally forgot about this thread them remembered about it after I moved my 1-4x Vortex PST scope to my 10/22 and had to reset the shim zero stop.

What you experienced is normal... since I just experienced the same thing couple weeks ago, and I forgot what I did to get it working right in the first place when I originally set it up.

You know how Vortex instructions says not to force shims into the thing... well that's only partially true.

Tip:
After getting your zero install as many shims as you can fit into it....
Re-install turret cap, make sure you don't loose ur zero, then ride the knob up and down, this will help settle the shims (I was able to overshoot my zero by almost one full rev)
Remove turret cap and install more ships.
Re-install turret cap, and repeat.
Remove turret cap and install more ships if needed.
Repeat process until you cant fit any more shims...

By the time I got to the last shim I could fit... it was pretty snug (be sure not to bend a shim)

After doing this... I get a pretty hard stop around 2 MOA past my zero... and it stays like that.

I can see why you were complaining, but getting the zero stop setup correctly takes a little work, but it works well once you get it done.
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  #43  
Old 05-30-2013, 8:19 AM
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I was thinking about cutting my own zero stop out of brass round stock.
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  #44  
Old 05-30-2013, 10:23 AM
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If you have a lathe and can machine your own with accuracy you would be in pretty good shape.

If you install the shims like I mentioned you get a very reliable and repeatable zero stop.
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  #45  
Old 05-30-2013, 10:27 AM
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let me know if your shim stack "de-settles" under recoil, preventing you from returning to your original zero. That's exactly what happened to me.

Your method was the FIRST thing I did, months and months ago.
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  #46  
Old 05-30-2013, 3:51 PM
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Have you still not sent it in yet?
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  #47  
Old 05-30-2013, 3:54 PM
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no I have not. Tracks OK, can shoot a box.

Two kinds of people. Those that take their car in to get the oil changed, and some manage it themselves, with input from others as needed.
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  #48  
Old 05-30-2013, 4:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiterabbit View Post
no I have not. Tracks OK, can shoot a box.

Two kinds of people. Those that take their car in to get the oil changed, and some manage it themselves, with input from others as needed.

What about those people that get there Oil Changed for free cause it came with the warranty?!?! Just sayin! Hope you can figure it out. There CS is top notch and you would not be out of pocket on anything.
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  #49  
Old 05-30-2013, 8:32 PM
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I'll save it for when (if) I have a red dot that doesn't hold zero, or ditto on a scope, or the like. Calgunners can't advise me on that, like they can on zero stop issues.
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  #50  
Old 06-09-2013, 5:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiterabbit View Post
I was thinking about cutting my own zero stop out of brass round stock.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ExtremeX View Post
If you have a lathe and can machine your own with accuracy you would be in pretty good shape.
Problem solved.







This is before deburring and test fit.

haven't tested under recoil yet. But on the bench, it does not stop to the nearest click or two. It is dead nuts exactly the same, every time.

Last edited by Whiterabbit; 09-27-2013 at 11:25 AM..
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  #51  
Old 06-09-2013, 7:28 PM
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That looks pretty sweet... nice work.
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  #52  
Old 06-12-2013, 8:06 PM
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OP, did you originally alternate the direction of the shims? That could be why it wasn't consistent at it's stop?

It really shouldn't matter though where it stops (since it's not zero stop) - it's just getting you close so you can bring it to zero (whether it stops at same location won't change that).

here's a good install vid:

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  #53  
Old 06-12-2013, 8:32 PM
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Hi LB, that was covered twice above. But cliffs notes if you don't want to read, yes. The shims were stacked. And more important, it was awknolaged that its not a true zero stop, that it was inconsistent to the point of not knowing if I went all the way through the dial again. Am I back to zero? or 12 moa past zero? That was the concern.

You're the second guy who didn't get it. Another member explained it for the first guy, I appreciated it. Obviously I could have written it more clearly.

Thanks
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  #54  
Old 06-13-2013, 9:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiterabbit View Post
Hi LB, that was covered twice above. But cliffs notes if you don't want to read, yes. The shims were stacked. And more important, it was awknolaged that its not a true zero stop, that it was inconsistent to the point of not knowing if I went all the way through the dial again. Am I back to zero? or 12 moa past zero? That was the concern.

You're the second guy who didn't get it. Another member explained it for the first guy, I appreciated it. Obviously I could have written it more clearly.

Thanks
I totally got it (and addressed just that in my post)... I will admit however, that I overlooked the post that you acknowledged stacking the shims alternating the opening... I'm no physicist, but that seemed the most likely cause for your problem (not a whole lot of things it could be - since you confirmed that the turret cap was tight and not slipping).

I've done a boatload of research on this scope (4-16x50 and 6-24x50) and haven't seen this problem repeated by anyone... apparently its an anomaly - that I'm sure Vortex would address... and yes, I saw that you don't want to go that rout.

Looks like the custom cut shim did the job - so it had to have something to do with the way the shims stacked... unless of course you still have the issue after tested with recoil.
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  #55  
Old 06-13-2013, 10:00 AM
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Good luck to you and your research.
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