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  #41  
Old 02-10-2012, 9:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smittty View Post
I did my Phantom trigger last weekend. Now it feels better than my 226 trigger so now I have to do that one too.

This year I'm going to resist buying anymore guns and instead put the time and money into making the guns I already have.
Nice, a phantom is on my short list of guns I wan't, along with the P07 duty.
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  #42  
Old 03-17-2012, 10:36 AM
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Zac, I registered here to express my gratitude to for this write up on improving the SP-01 Tactical. I love my SP-01 and will dive into this soon



Last edited by oli700; 03-17-2012 at 10:55 AM..
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  #43  
Old 03-17-2012, 12:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zfields View Post
From what I understand it can be taken off and ground flush. Ive also heard/read about people just replacing it with a standard B safety. No personal experience on this, so dont hold me to it.
One problem is CZ has used at least three different types of ambi safety and they aren't the same.
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  #44  
Old 03-17-2012, 12:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Caseless View Post
Zfields, great info. Will there be a part 2 on shortening the trigger reset?
The firing pin blocker lever is the primary cause of the long trigger reset.

You can remove the blocker pin and spring from the slide and grind the lower leg off the lever that actuates it, that's the easiest way.

If you want or need to retain the FPB, you need to make it work with less travel so the triggerbar clears it at the same time it clears the sear lever's lower leg.
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  #45  
Old 03-17-2012, 12:32 PM
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Awesome writeup. Thanks OP. Tagged for when I buy a cz
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  #46  
Old 03-17-2012, 12:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elsolo View Post
The firing pin blocker lever is the primary cause of the long trigger reset.

You can remove the blocker pin and spring from the slide and grind the lower leg off the lever that actuates it, that's the easiest way.

If you want or need to retain the FPB, you need to make it work with less travel so the triggerbar clears it at the same time it clears the sear lever's lower leg.
Ive seen some people actually reshape the FPB lifter also. It's interesting what some people have done with it.
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  #47  
Old 05-20-2012, 7:55 AM
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Lots of CZ love lately, so TTT.
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  #48  
Old 07-07-2012, 5:03 AM
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Ohhh nice!! I have been looking for something like this! Great write up! Thank you for this.
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  #49  
Old 08-10-2012, 6:40 PM
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Thank you greatly for this. Helped me out greatly in modifying my Phantom! Went with a CGW race hammer, lighter firing pin spring, lighter firing pin block spring, 13# main spring and a few other small things. The trigger is exactly how I wanted it now!
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  #50  
Old 09-26-2012, 7:31 AM
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tagged
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  #51  
Old 10-01-2012, 8:43 PM
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  #52  
Old 11-04-2012, 10:57 PM
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This is valuable info. Planning to acquire an SP-01 soon.
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  #53  
Old 11-04-2012, 11:13 PM
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I've noticed the SP01 the retainer part #65 is different on the right side than the left and spring #31 is missing on the right side. My 75B has springs for it on both sides. My 97 only has the detent on the left side. Oh and just an FYI, if you tackle taking one of these apart. Keep an eye on spring 31 when pulling the vertical pin #19 that retains the hammer pin, be careful you don't launch spring 31. If you are worried, do your work with the frame inside a gallon freezer bag.
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  #54  
Old 11-04-2012, 11:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elsolo View Post
The firing pin blocker lever is the primary cause of the long trigger reset.

You can remove the blocker pin and spring from the slide and grind the lower leg off the lever that actuates it, that's the easiest way.

If you want or need to retain the FPB, you need to make it work with less travel so the triggerbar clears it at the same time it clears the sear lever's lower leg.
The spacer is 2.5mm wide with a 3mm hole and about 5mm in diameter. The ones supplied by CGW are nylon. Shouldn't be too hard to find at a hobby shop or a real hardware store.
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  #55  
Old 11-04-2012, 11:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markw View Post
I've noticed the SP01 the retainer part #65 is different on the right side than the left and spring #31 is missing on the right side. My 75B has springs for it on both sides. My 97 only has the detent on the left side. Oh and just an FYI, if you tackle taking one of these apart. Keep an eye on spring 31 when pulling the vertical pin #19 that retains the hammer pin, be careful you don't launch spring 31. If you are worried, do your work with the frame inside a gallon freezer bag.
The tactical is a completely different set up, so not something I've ran into yet.

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  #56  
Old 01-13-2013, 4:09 AM
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New Year bump for this great write up since I used his idea to cut a Q-tip down to size for a slave pin for the sear cage and trigger pin in reassembly on my SP-01 CZ Customs SAO straight trigger, CGW race hammer, billet sear install. Saved me time and money from buying slave pins. Thanks Zfields.
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  #57  
Old 01-13-2013, 4:17 AM
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I'll be disassembling my Sp-01 again to polish the trigger bar and sear cage bottom since my Dremel took a crap and just bought a new 4000 model. I just polished the barrel and feed ramp yesterday starting with 220 grit, 400, 800, the Flitz polishing compound with a polishing wheel and felt wheel for the final polish on the external barrel surface. No sand paper was used on the feed ramp just the Flitz. Started out on lower rpm's then stepped it up a couple thousands at a time to a mirror finish.

Last edited by CAGLS; 01-13-2013 at 4:25 AM..
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  #58  
Old 04-20-2013, 4:29 PM
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Just polished the trigger bar and bottom of the sear cage on my SP-01 Tactical. I wrapped each around a square eraser with 600 grit, then 800 grit, Flitz and dremel polishing wheel. Did it all while the slave pin held the sear cage assembly together and just held any lever out of the way from the opposite side. I was having some trouble with the trigger pin until I bent the short leg out more so it catches in the trigger well easier then used a punch to align the pin, spring, to the holes as zfields did. Also changed the hammer spring from 11lbs to 8.5lbs. Now to get either CGW's or CZ Custom's race hammer. Smoothened the trigger pull quite a bit, but my Shadow Target still feels slicker probably due to the race hammer and no firing pin block.

Last edited by CAGLS; 04-20-2013 at 4:41 PM..
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  #59  
Old 04-20-2013, 4:53 PM
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If you do the inside notches of the trigger bar, you can get out more of the grit in the pull from where the disconnector drags across it. Make sure you do it with a hard, flat edge though, you don't want to change the angles in that area at all. You can see the points in my OP
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  #60  
Old 04-21-2013, 12:44 PM
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I'll do that area when I put in the race hammer. A long triangle or square shaped polishing stone from Brownell's should do the job. I'll order CGW's trigger with pre travel and overtravel set screws plus his floating trigger pin also.
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  #61  
Old 04-21-2013, 1:46 PM
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Used this thread to polish my baby eagle's trigger assembly. Worked great thanks
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  #62  
Old 10-04-2013, 12:19 PM
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The been-a-while bump
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  #63  
Old 10-04-2013, 12:44 PM
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Excellent write-up, thanks for the effort.
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  #64  
Old 10-04-2013, 2:03 PM
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I remember when disassembling a CZ looked daunting, now I do the polish action job on all my CZ's. Here's a write up on what other parts to polish by David of Cajun Gun Works:

Smoothing the action



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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  #65  
Old 11-02-2013, 10:03 PM
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Tagged! Just jailed a P-01 and was curious if there was any info on Calguns
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  #66  
Old 01-16-2014, 1:54 AM
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After New Years bump for all the new CZ owners. A tip on getting the right side decocker lever off without marring the finish on the P-01: I'll slide a thin piece of Mylar or old thin credit card between the lever and frame while pressing on the release lever under the decocking lever helps me separate it from the frame.

Last edited by CAGLS; 01-16-2014 at 2:49 AM..
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  #67  
Old 03-05-2014, 7:25 AM
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tagged
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  #68  
Old 09-07-2014, 7:04 AM
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Giving serious thought to replacing parts a gentle polishing.
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  #69  
Old 09-07-2014, 9:11 AM
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Oh great. Now I have no excuse NOT to do it on my Phantom. Thanks OP.
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  #70  
Old 10-13-2014, 11:13 PM
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tagged
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  #71  
Old 12-07-2014, 8:00 PM
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Has anyone tried polishing the trigger bar without removing it? I've watched the video on how to remove the trigger bar and it just seems like a pain in the butt to put back on... since the top surface of the trigger bar is accessible without removal, can I just sand and polish it while it's still on the gun? Any pros or cons to this? Thanks.
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  #72  
Old 12-07-2014, 8:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Heero View Post
Has anyone tried polishing the trigger bar without removing it? I've watched the video on how to remove the trigger bar and it just seems like a pain in the butt to put back on... since the top surface of the trigger bar is accessible without removal, can I just sand and polish it while it's still on the gun? Any pros or cons to this? Thanks.
It would be kind of difficult since most of those areas cannot be reached without removing the trigger bar which in turn requires removal of the sear cage.
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  #73  
Old 12-08-2014, 12:16 AM
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tagged
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  #74  
Old 12-08-2014, 4:09 AM
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Tagged, great write up.
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  #75  
Old 12-08-2014, 11:55 AM
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Tagged
Thanks
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  #76  
Old 12-20-2014, 4:05 PM
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tagged.. awesome write up.
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  #77  
Old 12-20-2014, 4:26 PM
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Tagged


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  #78  
Old 12-29-2014, 3:55 PM
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Another pin you can use as a sear slave pin is the main spring plug pin #23 in the CZ 75 diagram.

Last edited by CAGLS; 01-03-2015 at 12:35 PM..
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  #79  
Old 01-01-2015, 2:01 PM
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CAGLS: thanks.. Will do that as well in case if David didn't ship out my phone order. I thought he would add the trigger pin, slave pin and L spring to my online order after I placed it with him over the phone.. but he said it wasn't shipped together. Just hoping he had shipped it out separately. Still waiting for him to confirm on that.

Update: CAGLS: #22 is not a pin is it? Were you suggesting to use #23 instead?

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  #80  
Old 01-03-2015, 12:35 PM
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Sorry it is #23, fixed it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by cusco19 View Post
CAGLS: thanks.. Will do that as well in case if David didn't ship out my phone order. I thought he would add the trigger pin, slave pin and L spring to my online order after I placed it with him over the phone.. but he said it wasn't shipped together. Just hoping he had shipped it out separately. Still waiting for him to confirm on that.

Update: CAGLS: #22 is not a pin is it? Were you suggesting to use #23 instead?

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