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Rimfire Firearms .22, .17 and other Rimfire Handguns and Rifles

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  #1  
Old 03-09-2013, 9:28 AM
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Default Late 2007 10/22

A local shop has a late 2007 10/22 in stock. Wood furniture, metal trigger group, etc.

They want $325 for it.

I can buy a new production 10/22, black synthetic base model at sportsman's warehouse for $230.

Is the older version worth $100 more? $75 more in case I can negotiate down?
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Old 03-09-2013, 10:12 AM
drh777 drh777 is offline
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I have a 10/22 I bought new in 06 with wood furniture and metal trigger group. My sister decided she wanted a 10/22 last year and bought one of the black synthetic ones. With the plastic trigger group. Overall I like mine much more feels much sturdier and well made. The synthetic one on the other hand is so damn light you could pack it anywhere and basically forget you have it. We've never had a problem with it yet, it's cheaper. I think it's basically up to you. Do you want wood or synthetic? Are you going to change the trigger group in the future anyway? I love my wood furnitured, metal trigger group Ruger. But want to buy another synthetic new style one too. Just because its so light for hiking, camping, etc. basically you can't go wrong either way, or buy both!
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Old 03-09-2013, 10:27 AM
chango17 chango17 is offline
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i havent shot any new 10/22s i have an older one from 06 it was a plinker my cousins and i used when we would go hiking and shooting in a riverbed on the outskirts of town so its quite beat up, but it still shoots and cycles good as ever as long as you keep the action clean and give the bore a quick run through with a snake bore. Also i love wood furniture, i like mine because it feels sturdy and reliable, ive held the newer ones (but have not shot one) and they feel flimsy to me and wouldnt take the beating i put mine through. so prety much if you take care of your rifle and arent planning on doing anything to crazy with it...its pretty much just preferance.
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Old 03-09-2013, 8:08 PM
Excaliburr Excaliburr is offline
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Older metal trigger group and parts were just made better IMO. Also, they can be customized easy to make them at least a 3# trigger pull with just a little polishing etc. Doesn't mean I wouldn't own one of the newer ones, because I have a 10/22TD. They can be polished and made better too, but I have always like steel or in this case aluminum parts over plastic. If you can get a new one for $230 when in my area there are none to be found, I would just buy a new one. It is likely that the LGS is just looking to make some big bucks during this shortage. There was a time when you could buy a used gun for less than new, otherwise why would ya? Who know how many rounds have been down the barrel. Personally, everyone should buy at least one of the take down models. I love all my 10/22's, but if I could only own one, it would be the TD. Of course I do modify the triggers, install the auto bolt and change the recoil buffer. Oh, and buy the way, those do not cost much and make the range day all the more enjoyable..
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Old 03-09-2013, 9:21 PM
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You can get a complete metal OEM trigger group for $95 from Clark Custom guns. Or just the housing for $29.
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Old 03-10-2013, 8:41 AM
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Thanks everyone. Haven't decided but most likely would be upgraded at some point anyway. If funds allow and I can get better deal on the older one then both might be in order.
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Old 03-10-2013, 2:36 PM
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my 10/22 is 25 years old. shoots great. all I've done is put a hogue (regular barrel) overmolded stock and tech sights on it. it's more accurate than I am even with the stock trigger, barrel, etc. either way you should replace the stock and sights. so get the cheaper model.
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Old 03-12-2013, 3:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rm1911 View Post
my 10/22 is 25 years old. shoots great. all I've done is put a hogue (regular barrel) overmolded stock and tech sights on it. it's more accurate than I am even with the stock trigger, barrel, etc. either way you should replace the stock and sights. so get the cheaper model.
How can you tell when your 10/22 was made?
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Old 03-12-2013, 4:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toten Kopf View Post
How can you tell when your 10/22 was made?
Right here http://www.ruger.com/service/product.../RI-10-22.html
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Old 03-12-2013, 5:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toten Kopf View Post
How can you tell when your 10/22 was made?
I remember buying it . I was in college. Worked at big5. Paid 169.99. And considering that I could have gotten a marlin 60 for half that...nothing wrong with them but it ain't a 10/22!!
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Old 03-13-2013, 11:35 AM
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Also, for your consideration:
http://www.brimstonegunsmithing.com/...stic-vs-metal/
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  #12  
Old 03-13-2013, 12:42 PM
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It's not worth what they are asking for.

People over value a metal trigger assembly. It make no sense to pay $100 more when you can get Hornet Customs' 2.5 lb trigger assembly for $115. I have the Hornet trigger on my 10/22 and it's very nice.
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Old 03-13-2013, 12:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Excaliburr View Post
Older metal trigger group and parts were just made better IMO. Also, they can be customized easy to make them at least a 3# trigger pull with just a little polishing etc. Doesn't mean I wouldn't own one of the newer ones, because I have a 10/22TD. They can be polished and made better too, but I have always like steel or in this case aluminum parts over plastic. If you can get a new one for $230 when in my area there are none to be found, I would just buy a new one. It is likely that the LGS is just looking to make some big bucks during this shortage. There was a time when you could buy a used gun for less than new, otherwise why would ya? Who know how many rounds have been down the barrel. Personally, everyone should buy at least one of the take down models. I love all my 10/22's, but if I could only own one, it would be the TD. Of course I do modify the triggers, install the auto bolt and change the recoil buffer. Oh, and buy the way, those do not cost much and make the range day all the more enjoyable..
My TD is waiting for pick up in jail. This would be my first 10/22. Can you point out any links for recommended trigger modifications?

Also, what is the purpose of changing the recoil buffer? Isn't recoil on a .22 almost "non-existent".

Please excuse my "newb" questions.

Thanks.
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Old 03-13-2013, 1:16 PM
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I like the older metal trigger housing/groups but I wouldn't pay that much.
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Old 03-13-2013, 3:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JackRydden224 View Post
It's not worth what they are asking for.

People over value a metal trigger assembly. It make no sense to pay $100 more when you can get Hornet Customs' 2.5 lb trigger assembly for $115. I have the Hornet trigger on my 10/22 and it's very nice.
I honestly don't have a problem with the plastic housing either. I have an older one with metal housing, still works great after 20 years.

I picked up a 2nd hand newer generation model and have upgraded the internals of a newer plastic one with Kidd parts. Big improvement over the OEM Ruger parts, nice clean break, and crisp reset. My opinion, Ruger cut corners a little on the internals, and it can be felt between the old and new. But like Jack said, and internal parts upgrade will make the trigger much better over stock.
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Old 03-13-2013, 6:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atascadero View Post
Awesome, thank you very much.
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Old 03-16-2013, 1:47 AM
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As far as trigger mods try rimfire central.com. You can also search here on CG. I think I did a thread on the auto bolt mod awhile ago. That is a simple one that all you do is "oval" out the factory part. It is the part in the trigger group where you have to use your left hand to mess with the chingadera near your trigger in order to close that dang bolt. It is frustrating and it is the first thing that I do to every 10/22 I come into contact with. Takes like 10 minutes with my dremel. As to why to change the recoil buffer: Because the receiver is Aluminum and the factory part is steel. After lots of rounds of pounding on that steel from the bolt, it will oval out the area where the pins go through on the receiver. Also, the plastic recoil buffers are much quieter. One other thing on the 10/22's trigger that is a quick fix/mod that is inexpensive. When you pull the trigger you squeeze back on a small spring with a plunger that goes back into the rear of the housing. Take that spring out and clean it real good with alcohol, remove excess paint from the steel plunger part and polish real good. Also dab a touch of gun grease back into the hole where the spring goes. Before you put the spring back in, cut off one coil with the dikes. I swear you will like the trigger pull better! If you want a better trigger pull, the secret is in the polishing of the hammer to sear contact. Don't mess with the spring that goes under the sear as that will negatively affect the safety and other than some cleaning/polishing of the sear, nothing more is needed there. What I find is that the hammer where the sear contacts Ruger does not clean off the paint/finish whatever and if you do + a bit of polishing, your trigger pull will be much better.
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Old 03-16-2013, 1:51 AM
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I get my factory triggers to just under 3# by just some tlc/polishing & cleaning. To make these rifles cheaper, Ruger cannot spend the time on the details. Could make the trigger pulls less if I wanted, but that would mean removing more material than I am willing + it is not need for just a good hunting trigger. Trust me it is way better than the 8# pull from the factory. A lot of accuracy is lost will a heavy pull like that!
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