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  #1  
Old 02-28-2013, 8:07 PM
crespoh69 crespoh69 is offline
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Default Proper way to clean?

Hello everyone, I was wondering what is the proper way of cleaning a rifle? Going by instructions on kits you basically add your liquid to a patch, run it through, run a brush and then a few patches until clean and repeat if necessary.

But I've also read to run the first soaked patch through and let it sit for a few minutes which makes sense and is what I do because like any cleaner I've used before that I'm using to loosen gunk, it has to sit to work, it doesn't always magically dissolve the gunk on contact.

I've also reads on other guides to run the brush multiple times before going through with a clean patch...so which is the correct method? Or is it, until they come out white?
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Old 02-28-2013, 9:02 PM
AleksandreCz AleksandreCz is offline
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I go with Brush, Patch with Cleaner, Dry Patch over and Over Until the dry Patch comes out Clean then Just apply a light coat of oil.
Cleaning the Barrel is Pretty simple and there is no wrong way of doing it.

Just don't forget to do it after every shooting secession.
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Old 02-28-2013, 9:07 PM
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This is going to be some lively debate!

Can I get a 9mm vs. 45 thread to go please?

I vote for wipe-out bore foam.
Spray a shot in the bore witha 3/8" diameter piece of polyester tubing
Wait for the foam to stop coming out of the muzzle, then remove the tube from the chamber.
Let it sit 6-12 hours.
Push a couple patches through the barrel.
Repeat until the patches come out clean.
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Old 02-28-2013, 9:46 PM
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I like to run a well soaked bore brush (usually in Hoppe's #9) through the barrel 3-4 times, then let the barrel sit like that while I clean the rest of the rilfe. Then I come back and start running dry patches through the barrel until they come out clean.

But, that's just me....
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Old 02-28-2013, 10:34 PM
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I usually just throw my AK into the bathtub and let it soak. Then shake it dry and start shooting as for my glock. I'm not sure yet. Ill let you know when I clean it. 5,000+ rounds and no cleaning

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Old 02-28-2013, 10:56 PM
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Old 03-01-2013, 2:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AleksandreCz View Post
Cleaning the Barrel is Pretty simple and there is no wrong way of doing it.
Nope, there is a wrong way to clean a barrel. You want to clean from breach to muzzle and never reverse direction. Once the brush come out the muzzle you should remove it before removing the rod, reattach, and run it through again. Scrubbing back and forth will damage your rifling.
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Old 03-01-2013, 6:02 AM
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Go from the breech, not the bore. Enjoy.

Don't confuse beer with Hoppe's, and don't ask how I know...

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Old 03-01-2013, 7:35 AM
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For routine cleanings:
1) Wet patch with solvent or CLP and run it through (action to muzzle is best, if possible - if you must go through the muzzle, use of a crown protector is recommended). Patch can go in a loop, or over a jag.
2) You may allow it to soak in a bit, especially if the bore is very dirty (lead, carbon, dirt, rust, etc.).
3) Run brush through the bore to loosen up/remove large particles. For routine cleaning, a bore snake can be used.
4) Run another patch through (dry or with solvent or CLP).
5) Visually inspect bore. If there is still visible lead/carbon buildup, then repeat from step 1, otherwise you may repeat step 4 as needed, until you can run a clean dry patch through and it comes out clean and dry.
6) Apply a light coat of lubricant/oil (or CLP) using a clean patch.


For a more thorough cleaning, use a foaming barrel cleaner, following the directions for waiting time, and then clean as you would in a routine cleaning.

When using a foaming barrel cleaner, and some bore solvents, have a rag/paper towel handy to quickly wipe any stray foam off of the furniture, so it doesn't mar the finish.

When using a can/bottle of solvent or other chemicals, make sure you keep your canned/bottled drink segregated. While pouring beer down the barrel of your rifle is bad, pouring solvent down your throat is worse.


If I have left anything out, I'm sure I'll be corrected.
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Last edited by retiredAFcop; 03-01-2013 at 7:37 AM..
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Old 03-01-2013, 2:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDay View Post
Nope, there is a wrong way to clean a barrel. You want to clean from breach to muzzle and never reverse direction.
While its not Ideal To clean from the Muzzle towards the breech its not a that huge of a deal A long as you also Clean and scrub the Chamber after you are done cleaning the rest of the barrel.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JDay View Post
Once the brush come out the muzzle you should remove it before removing the rod, reattach, and run it through again. Scrubbing back and forth will damage your rifling.
If Running a Brush Through your barrel one way will not damage the rifling running it the other way certainly will not damage the rifling either. If that is a concern to you get nylon Brushes I think Pro shot makes some descent ones.

The reason You don't want to brush Back and forth is because Bu Pulling the brush back through the barrel you will be putting back into the Barrel everything you just cleaned out of it.
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Last edited by AleksandreCz; 03-01-2013 at 2:25 PM..
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Old 03-01-2013, 3:23 PM
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45 ACP hands down.

If you have a little more to spend, then probably a Remington 870.

The AK-47, simply because the 7.62.39 round it shoots is a better stopper.

Coke.

Ford.
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Old 03-01-2013, 3:25 PM
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Keep in mind that carbon build up bonds with the metal. You can clean and clean and still magically find it dirty. Suggest periodic cleaning after the range
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Old 03-01-2013, 4:08 PM
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look on youtube, you could probably find a video showing someone how to clean your exact gun.
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Old 03-01-2013, 4:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDay View Post
there is a wrong way to clean a barrel. You want to clean from breach to muzzle and never reverse direction. Once the brush come out the muzzle you should remove it before removing the rod, reattach, and run it through again. Scrubbing back and forth will damage your rifling.
^This^.

Handguns I clean from breach to muzzle running a very wet patch with M-Pro 7 Bore Gel down the bore and let it sit for a 1/2 hour to give the chemical time to work. Then I follow up with a brush and dry patches. Finally one patch lightly damp with Break Free CLP followed by one last dry patch.

Centerfire rifles I treat the same as handguns but I use a Lucas bore guide and I use Tipton carbon fiber rods exclusively.

Bolt action rimfire - rimfire rifles shoot better with a dirty bore so they get cleaned only every thousand rounds or so and I do it the same way.

Semiautomatic rimfire rifles are cleaned from the muzzle using a muzzle bore guide.

All - all weapons get a light coating of CLP on all metal parts and are wiped dry. If they are going to be stored for months I'll finish with a patch wet with CLP down the bore and leave the bore moist. Before shooting a stored weapon it gets a dry patch down the bore. Note that this does not address lubrication.
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Old 03-01-2013, 8:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AleksandreCz View Post
While its not Ideal To clean from the Muzzle towards the breech its not a that huge of a deal A long as you also Clean and scrub the Chamber after you are done cleaning the rest of the barrel.



If Running a Brush Through your barrel one way will not damage the rifling running it the other way certainly will not damage the rifling either. If that is a concern to you get nylon Brushes I think Pro shot makes some descent ones.

The reason You don't want to brush Back and forth is because Bu Pulling the brush back through the barrel you will be putting back into the Barrel everything you just cleaned out of it.
Yeah, I'm sorry but I personally don't understand that logic either, why would there be damage one way but not the other? I will admit I am new to firearms in general but this part really confuses me because as far as I see it you're doing the same thing one way as you were doing it the opposite way.
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Old 03-01-2013, 8:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sholling View Post
^This^.

Handguns I clean from breach to muzzle running a very wet patch with M-Pro 7 Bore Gel down the bore and let it sit for a 1/2 hour to give the chemical time to work. Then I follow up with a brush and dry patches. Finally one patch lightly damp with Break Free CLP followed by one last dry patch.

Centerfire rifles I treat the same as handguns but I use a Lucas bore guide and I use Tipton carbon fiber rods exclusively.

Bolt action rimfire - rimfire rifles shoot better with a dirty bore so they get cleaned only every thousand rounds or so and I do it the same way.

Semiautomatic rimfire rifles are cleaned from the muzzle using a muzzle bore guide.

All - all weapons get a light coating of CLP on all metal parts and are wiped dry. If they are going to be stored for months I'll finish with a patch wet with CLP down the bore and leave the bore moist. Before shooting a stored weapon it gets a dry patch down the bore. Note that this does not address lubrication.
Another thing that I don't understand. I've read people say that while you can leave solvent in for a few minutes, hours and days is not recommended. So how do products like CLP get away with this since they claim to not only clean but also to lube and protect?
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Old 03-01-2013, 8:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crespoh69 View Post
Another thing that I don't understand. I've read people say that while you can leave solvent in for a few minutes, hours and days is not recommended. So how do products like CLP get away with this since they claim to not only clean but also to lube and protect?
Different solvents react differently.
The more aggressive ones generally will damage the bore if left in too long.
The milder ones can be left in without damage for long soak times.

CLP is "clean lube & protect".
It is a compromise of all three things.
It does none of the jobs very well.
There are much better chemicals for each job, but then you need 3 different chemicals...
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Last edited by ar15barrels; 03-01-2013 at 8:12 PM..
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Old 03-01-2013, 8:11 PM
AleksandreCz AleksandreCz is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crespoh69 View Post
Yeah, I'm sorry but I personally don't understand that logic either, why would there be damage one way but not the other? I will admit I am new to firearms in general but this part really confuses me because as far as I see it you're doing the same thing one way as you were doing it the opposite way.
Bristles themselves Will not damage it now other Parts of the Brush or the rod might. I buy Otis and Pro Shot Brushes that Are made out brass which is a softer metal so less danger to the Rifling. Some of the Cheaper Brushes are Made with Steel Its still softer than your Barrel but still a Little more danger.

My other Recomedation to You is a One Piece Rod dont mess with the ones you have to screw together they can bend and kink at the connection points.
Or Otis Makes a flexible Pull through rod that also works Great.

What Firearm are we talking about here any way ?
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Old 03-01-2013, 9:18 PM
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How long/how many patches does it usually take to clean a rifle for you guys? I'll put maybe 140 rounds through my SKS and maybe 100 rounds through my Mosin every time I go to the range. And it takes me about 45-60 minutes per rifle just to clean the barrel going through probably 100+ patches for each one.
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Old 03-01-2013, 9:34 PM
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It depends On the Ammo I am Using Some of It like Russian steel cased Ammo Burns Very Dirty And It might take me 20 min to clean out the barrel. If I am Using Quality ammo Federal Winchester Fiocchi About half that.

It it takes 100 + patches to clean the Barrel You Might not be using the Brush enough to dislodge the carbon lead copper from the barrel or maybe you can try Switching gun cleaning solutions.
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Old 03-01-2013, 10:36 PM
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As long as you're going breech to muzzle & the patches eventually come out clean.... meh.

Some advocate not overcleaning a bore. Not a good idea with corrosive ammo.
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Old 03-01-2013, 11:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crespoh69 View Post
Yeah, I'm sorry but I personally don't understand that logic either, why would there be damage one way but not the other? I will admit I am new to firearms in general but this part really confuses me because as far as I see it you're doing the same thing one way as you were doing it the opposite way.
You clean from the breach because the last part of the barrel to effect the direction of the bullet is the very last bit of the bore and the crown. Over time abrasive gunk embedded in the cleaning rod can damage that area. That's why you clean from the breach and use a bore guide to center the cleaning rod and keep it from bashing into rifling.

Quote:
Originally Posted by crespoh69 View Post
Another thing that I don't understand. I've read people say that while you can leave solvent in for a few minutes, hours and days is not recommended. So how do products like CLP get away with this since they claim to not only clean but also to lube and protect?
See below.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ar15barrels View Post
Different solvents react differently.
The more aggressive ones generally will damage the bore if left in too long.
The milder ones can be left in without damage for long soak times.
Excellent advice. I like M-Pro 7 Bore Gel because it works well and doesn't stink. It's so mild that I keep the stuff in the fridge to thicken it a bit more without worry of stinking up the fridge.

Quote:
CLP is "clean lube & protect".
It is a compromise of all three things.
It does none of the jobs very well.
There are much better chemicals for each job, but then you need 3 different chemicals...
I wouldn't agree with "none of the jobs" I worked for Break Free back in the late 70s and personally saw the friction and corrosion resistance (salt spray booth) testing and both were excellent. But I agree about cleaning and don't use CLP for any serious cleaning and not at all for a bore cleaner it's just better than nothing. I'm very fond of M-Pro 7 Bore Gel for a bore cleaner and Break Free or Weapon Shield for a light lube and protectant but Mobil-1 doesn't suck either and their are some great light greases.
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Old 03-02-2013, 6:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trex65mil View Post
How long/how many patches does it usually take to clean a rifle for you guys? I'll put maybe 140 rounds through my SKS and maybe 100 rounds through my Mosin every time I go to the range. And it takes me about 45-60 minutes per rifle just to clean the barrel going through probably 100+ patches for each one.
Corrosive ammo through an SKS or Mini-30 or MoNag is a different kettle o' fish. EVERYTHING gets douched in moose milk and scrubbed with nylon brushes. Harbor Freight sells a cheap set with sizes for every hole in your rifle. THEN the real cleaning begins.

100 patches is a bit much though. If your bore is rough you might never get one to come out totally white. Maybe try an overnight with Kroil soaked patches in the bore?
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