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Rimfire Firearms .22, .17 and other Rimfire Handguns and Rifles

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  #1  
Old 09-15-2012, 6:37 PM
aaronledesmab77 aaronledesmab77 is offline
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Default Refinishing a 10-22 receiver

I just refinished mine, but had to re-do the thing several times. The following information may be helpful to anyone endeavoring to re-finish their receiver:

First, I contacted Ruger and learned that the the factory finish is an epoxy spray paint. I glass bead-blasted the finish completely off down to the raw aluminum without incident. Then I used an aluminum "self-etching" primer (spray can which can be purchased at Home Depot or Lowe's) to prime. This primer actually etches into the top layer of the aluminum , changing the surface of the metal. Once the primer set, I used a high-temp Rustoleum (Ithink that's how it's spelled) matte black spray paint. Once the paint was set, I rubbed some Break Free CLP on it to test if the paint would hold up when I had to clean the receiver. The CLP (pretty mild stuff) took the paint right off. Back to square one, I used an aerosol paint stripper (which I also purchased from Home Depot) to remove the rest of the paint and primer to start over.

I re-primed, and used a product which was referred to me by a friend, who is an armorer, called Brownell's "Aluma-hyde II" epoxy spray paint. This stuff is specially designed for aluminum and will stand up to all the solvents out there. It's tough as nails and couldn't be happier with the outcome. I was originally going to have the receiver hard anodized ($65.00), but decided to go with the above.
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  #2  
Old 09-18-2012, 7:24 PM
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Nice to know.
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  #3  
Old 09-23-2012, 9:27 AM
compulsivegunbuyer compulsivegunbuyer is offline
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I recently painted my 10/22 reciever. I used KG Gun Kote. I have heard good things about the Alumahyde II. Instead of glass bead, use aluminum oxide, as it gives a better cut in the surface. Not sure who was going to anodize your reciever, but anodizing die cast aluminium produces poor results because of the high silicon content in the metal. I contacted US Anodizing, and they won't even accept 10/22 recievers for anodizing. Guy said they turn a molted ugly grey because silicon won't anodize. I used one of those mini air eraser/sand blaster things from HF to blast it, a Paasche air brush to spray it, and a toaster oven I got at a garage sale for a dollar to bake it. I would like to see some other peoples home finishing jobs, post a pic and tell us any problems you ran into. Here's mine.




Last edited by compulsivegunbuyer; 09-23-2012 at 11:31 AM..
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  #4  
Old 09-29-2012, 5:12 PM
aaronledesmab77 aaronledesmab77 is offline
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Yours turned out great!
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  #5  
Old 10-18-2012, 9:23 AM
Whoneedsafety? Whoneedsafety? is offline
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The problem with aluma-hyde is you get one good application out of a can. If you were to spray a second firearm it spits the paint out. It no longer sprays a fine mist. I have used aluma-hyde for years. Brownell's promises their cleaning tips will fix the issue. They don't!

Compulsivegunbuyer has the best setup. Good Job!
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  #6  
Old 01-04-2013, 10:09 PM
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Would a lowes or home depot carry "Alum-Hyde?"
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  #7  
Old 01-05-2013, 12:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whoneedsafety? View Post
The problem with aluma-hyde is you get one good application out of a can. If you were to spray a second firearm it spits the paint out. It no longer sprays a fine mist. I have used aluma-hyde for years. Brownell's promises their cleaning tips will fix the issue. They don't!

Compulsivegunbuyer has the best setup. Good Job!
Any spray tip will clog between spraying if you do not clean it.
When you are done with a coat flip the can over and spray it for a couple seconds. Until you see and hear a difference in the spray. It will stop shooting paint and only aerosol. This will clean the tip and make it work better for the next use.

Quote:
Originally Posted by lentball View Post
Would a lowes or home depot carry "Alum-Hyde?"
No. It is made by/for Brownells.
So you can only get it from them as far as I understand it.
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-to...-prod1117.aspx

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Last edited by Chaos47; 01-05-2013 at 12:49 AM..
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  #8  
Old 01-07-2013, 8:30 PM
denpython denpython is offline
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What about this product for clear coat.

spray max 2K

rapid cut-in spot clear coat

part no. 3 680 062

its a 2 part product, sprays real well and tough as nails.

several types available.

I have used no. 3 680 062 on my aluminum car mags. great results. super resistant.

http://www.spraymax.com/index.php?id=329&L=1
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  #9  
Old 02-01-2013, 11:53 PM
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I sand and polish my 10/22's when they start looking shabby, just my thing. I have one or two which I have left in the raw but they tend to be a little harder to keep clean but just take few minutes with a scotch brite pad to restore the raw look. Nice job on the new finish.
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  #10  
Old 02-02-2013, 10:26 AM
iron cannon iron cannon is offline
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The toughest coating / paint I know of ( short of powder coating) is a true two part epoxy. The single part "epoxies" in a can dont even come close, because they are not real epoxy coatings. The only down side is that you need a rig to spray them either a all in one HPLV ( high pressure low volume) set up , or a HPLV gun and an air compressor. Or you can always get a stainless steel receiver for it and not have to worry about it.

Last edited by iron cannon; 02-02-2013 at 10:43 AM..
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  #11  
Old 02-02-2013, 10:34 AM
iron cannon iron cannon is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by denpython View Post
What about this product for clear coat.

spray max 2K

rapid cut-in spot clear coat

part no. 3 680 062

its a 2 part product, sprays real well and tough as nails.

several types available.

I have used no. 3 680 062 on my aluminum car mags. great results. super resistant.

http://www.spraymax.com/index.php?id=329&L=1
First time I have seen this product. Looks easy to use , I will have to try it .
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  #12  
Old 02-06-2013, 3:36 PM
me109g4 me109g4 is offline
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I just cerrakoted my 10/22, easier than i expected. Used friends blasting cabinet with 120 grit in it, wiped down with acetone then used a Paasche airbrush set up to spray the receiver and trigger housing. I used the Olive Drab color, threw it in the oven for 2 hrs. to cure it and all done. All re assembled now but havent shot it yet.
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  #13  
Old 02-10-2013, 2:18 PM
luberhill luberhill is offline
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I did my Henry 22, used paint stripper then 0000 steel wool then my buffer
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG-20130209-00112.jpg (102.9 KB, 591 views)
File Type: jpg IMG-20130209-00113.jpg (108.3 KB, 418 views)
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  #14  
Old 05-13-2013, 11:41 PM
ja308 ja308 is offline
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I am planning on using dura coat for other items.
Last time I used it my poor planning wasted 1/3 of it !

Has anyone tried it on aluminum parts ?
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  #15  
Old 06-15-2013, 2:52 PM
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I've also used Aluma-hyde for years. I take the tip off the spray can and put it in a small can with Acetone. Same thing I clean the surfaces with.

Aluma-hyde needs to cure for about 10 days for full effect.
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  #16  
Old 06-15-2013, 11:22 PM
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I don't know how long it will last , but I use self etching primer and then flat black spray paint. It looks good to me.
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  #17  
Old 07-30-2013, 7:55 PM
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I just had mine re-anodized by these guys....

http://amfauburn.com/

I'd love to tell you what it cost, but I have no idea I was working for someone that uses them a LOT and I threw it into a batch of stuff that was getting hard anoed it came out fantastic. I'd sandblasted it prior to taking it to them, and had it prepped and ready to go. I'm also not working for the place that I was so I cant even help you there.
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  #18  
Old 09-03-2013, 2:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luberhill View Post
I did my Henry 22, used paint stripper then 0000 steel wool then my buffer
I refinished my Henry but I had mine powder coated. That was three years ago and it still looks great.

[IMG][/IMG]
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  #19  
Old 11-09-2013, 12:32 AM
ja308 ja308 is offline
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I used HK black from "Duracoat" seems to work better than the standard spray paints I've used before.

For the holster gun, I added extra hardener which increases the lubricity .
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  #20  
Old 11-10-2013, 7:50 AM
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i used Brownell gunkote on my mauser and 10/22 with good results.

i've also had good luck by using sandblasting, cleaning thoroughly with acetone or denatured alcohol, using rustoleum or hi-temp stove paint*.

*the type that's used on re-painting wood burning stoves.
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  #21  
Old 11-27-2013, 1:33 PM
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There's a true two-part epoxy called Klasskote available on line or from some of the larger hobby shops that deal with R/C aircraft. I have used the older K&B Superpoxy which this stuff was derived from and it works extremely well. If I ever had to refinish my older 10/22 I would certainly use it.
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