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  #1  
Old 06-01-2007, 5:08 PM
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Default Learn to paint your selector/trademark markings

I know there are a lot of people who desire to know how to fill in their selector markings. I tried to come up with some methods that involve things you can easily find around the house. The first method I list is an older idea I heard from a buddy. Obviously you can send your parts in for custom paint jobs or take lots of time to do it yourself with stencils or fine brushes. I'm just trying to share some really quick ways to produce some really fancy results.


Method 1.) Use crayons
Thats right, crayons! Just scribble away at your markings with white, red, green, orange,..........pink? Whatever color floats ur boat will work. Cake on the wax really thick and wipe off the excess. Re-apply as needed. The advantage of this method is its cheap and easy to touch-up or change coloring. They are also easy to remove. Do not use this method on thin lines or lines that do not go deeply into the receiver. This method is best for thick bold lettering or thin deep lettering/lines. Used on my AK pictured

Method 2.) White out
This method is messy but worth it if you want something more permanent then crayon. Slather over your trademarks and any writing you want to be colored white. Glob this stuff onto the lettering within reason. The more excess you add, the more time it will take to remove. After the white out has dried, take a CLP coated cloth and gently wipe down the receiver/parts. The CLP will dissolve the excess white out and leave very definitive white lines on your parts. Do not use this method on rough surfaces because it may be hard to remove the paint. Don't use this method on thin shallow lines either or the white out will just come out of the lines as you wipe it up. I used this method on my essential arms receivers and most of my stag. I say most because its near impossible to do the deer logo with this method. The antlers kept wiping off.


Method 3.) Acrylic Paint with Water
This is the fastest, simplest, and best method of painting ANYTHING of any shape or size. Its more permanent than crayon but lasts well and is a really pretty finish. Touching up is only required if it comes in contact with clp, ect.. Just place whatever color of paint u want in a bottle cap mix a small amount of water with the paint. Just a tiny bit of water is needed to dissolve the paint. Just take a brush and just barely touch whatever shape you hope to fill. The cohesive forces of the water will suck your paint right into the shape with near perfection. Take your girlfriend's hair drier and evaporate the water from the paint. Repeat the process only if the paint is not thick enough to your standards. Just take a finger and gently wipe off any excess paint. I used this on my stag logo and Magpul PRS stock.

Here are some pics.




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Last edited by Solidsnake87; 06-01-2007 at 5:18 PM..
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  #2  
Old 06-01-2007, 5:17 PM
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Sticky?
how about a Sticky Forum section too..
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  #3  
Old 06-01-2007, 5:21 PM
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I don't know how to sticky a thread. sorry.
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  #4  
Old 06-01-2007, 5:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Solidsnake87 View Post
I don't know how to sticky a thread. sorry.
A mod has to do it.

Thanks for the info...nice write-up and some nice weaponry there
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  #5  
Old 06-01-2007, 5:44 PM
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I use the crayons as well. I found if you fill in the lettering and really pack it in there, then take a lighter and heat the crayon in the lettering up just enough to turn it liquidy, but not boil it, then take the lighter away and hit it one wore time with the crayon it comes out perfect. Then just buff off what is on the actual lower from around the lettering. Heating it up seems to "suck" the crayon a little deeper into the stamping and also smmoths out the crayon wax as well. And if you don't like it, clp and a little elbow grease will take it right off.
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  #6  
Old 06-01-2007, 5:55 PM
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WD-40 works really well to remove crayons too.
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  #7  
Old 06-01-2007, 5:59 PM
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That is a very nice!
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Old 06-01-2007, 6:19 PM
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'Course you realize that you no longer have evil black rifles. They're not-quite-as-evil mostly-black rifles now. Personally, I'm going to use *black* paint on mine.


-- Parag
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  #9  
Old 06-01-2007, 6:54 PM
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Quote:
I'm going to use *black* paint on mine.
You do that.
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  #10  
Old 06-01-2007, 10:44 PM
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I think dark grey might be a bit more tacticool, but whatever floats your boat.
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  #11  
Old 08-18-2010, 7:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Parag View Post
'Course you realize that you no longer have evil black rifles. They're not-quite-as-evil mostly-black rifles now. Personally, I'm going to use *black* paint on mine.


-- Parag
0o0o0o0o0!

Do they have a reflective black paint? THAT would be tacticool!
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  #12  
Old 06-01-2007, 10:48 PM
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Awesome! Thanks for the guide. Great to know.
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  #13  
Old 06-01-2007, 10:50 PM
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Nail polish for mine, and a clear coat of nail polish on top of that.
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  #14  
Old 06-01-2007, 11:14 PM
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Instead of acrylic paint, use Testor's model paint and wipe with acetone or simple green to get rid of off the excess. That way it won't run off when you get it wet or you get CLP on it.

Also you won't get the fuzzy white "halo" that the OP has around all his lettering.

Last edited by Pryde; 06-01-2007 at 11:18 PM..
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  #15  
Old 09-23-2009, 9:58 PM
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nice upgrade
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  #16  
Old 11-07-2009, 3:22 AM
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Lacquer Stik here
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=7...QUER_STIK_reg_

The last 3 digits of the serial number are intentionally smudged in MSpaint, not on the gun.


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  #17  
Old 11-08-2009, 7:40 PM
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Default Remington LT 20 Skeet

Some kinda' hobby shop paint I found in the garage....That ain't flash...That's BLING.

Last edited by JBS; 12-05-2009 at 3:31 PM..
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  #18  
Old 06-01-2007, 11:15 PM
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Other ideas

1) Standard crayons contain wax, and will impregnate into a receiver's finish, and you won't be able to get it out and it will give the anodization around the areas you filled in a waxy glossy look. I know, I did this to one of my receivers and highly regret it.

2) White out? Umm... not very easy to do. It'll dry and chip out when you're trying to clean it up to look nice. Once you have it done right, it holds decent though. It may take several tries to get it right.

3) Paint with water? A bit better than your previous two, but still a bit of a mess to deal with.


Best ways:
Temporary:
1) Oil Pastel Drawing Crayons. You rub them in, wipe them off with a cloth, and then wipe them down with CLP. If you don't like it, oil and a toothbrush removes it. Reapply. It will not just wipe out. Under $3 at an art supply store or Longs Drugs.



Permanent:

2) If you want to use paint, go for the Testors Model Paint. Thin it as you would use for airburushing and use a syringe. Fill carefully. This is more permanent.



+



A few of mine I've done with the oil pastels:

Last edited by ivanimal; 06-02-2007 at 9:10 PM.. Reason: Rude sttement adding nothing to an otherwise good post
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  #19  
Old 12-06-2008, 9:00 PM
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Default Good info.

Quote:
Originally Posted by xenophobe View Post
Other ideas

Permanent:

2) If you want to use paint, go for the Testors Model Paint. Thin it as you would use for airburushing and use a syringe. Fill carefully. This is more permanent.

Nice tip, but where do you get the syringe with such a fine tip?
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  #20  
Old 06-01-2007, 11:16 PM
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Last edited by xenophobe; 06-01-2007 at 11:21 PM..
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  #21  
Old 06-01-2007, 11:18 PM
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Xeno.. what the hell is with that blue hammer spring?
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  #22  
Old 06-01-2007, 11:24 PM
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Oh, that's a Colt target hammer spring.
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  #23  
Old 06-01-2007, 11:34 PM
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I used lacquer sticks...and you can get them in different colors.
Brownells has them....as well as other places

It's more of a specialized product....that is more specific for this task.


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Last edited by Richard; 06-01-2007 at 11:37 PM..
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  #24  
Old 06-02-2007, 12:06 AM
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i used to do that crayon method on my "pager" a reallllly long time ago to fill in the MOTOROLA! lol yea i know, what are pagers now a days.... but like posted, just press down on them and fill in the cracks and take a lighter to kinda melt off the excess and wipe with a clean towel...... sorry for the echo/repeat.. had to just add my $.000002
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Old 06-02-2007, 2:04 AM
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Last edited by ivanimal; 06-02-2007 at 9:06 PM.. Reason: bickering
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  #26  
Old 06-02-2007, 5:43 PM
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deleted

Last edited by ivanimal; 06-02-2007 at 9:09 PM.. Reason: just trying to be a good mod
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  #27  
Old 06-02-2007, 6:06 PM
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deleted

Last edited by ivanimal; 06-02-2007 at 9:08 PM.. Reason: Unnecessary
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Old 06-05-2007, 7:35 AM
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Just painted my markings with plastic model acrylic paint and it turned out great. I did not dilute the paint and just applied to the markings without worrying about painting around it, then about 5 minutes after the application, I wiped it down with Simple Green and the paint outside the markings came right off without removing the paint in the markings. Good method to try.
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Old 07-11-2007, 8:50 PM
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With crayon.



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Old 07-25-2007, 6:38 PM
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lacquer stick...

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Finishin...sh_Repair.html
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  #31  
Old 09-19-2007, 3:02 PM
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Default Highlighting engravings/stampings/serial #s

The most reliable item I've used for many years is a simple white China marker. They can be found at most office supply places, including the big box office supply businesses. They are usually offered in white and red.

HTH

Bruce
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  #32  
Old 07-08-2008, 12:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BDH View Post
The most reliable item I've used for many years is a simple white China marker. They can be found at most office supply places, including the big box office supply businesses. They are usually offered in white and red.

HTH

Bruce
+1 on the china markers! i did mine yesterday with great results. try going to your local art supply store before going to office supply stores. you can pick up individual sticks for cheaper at the art stores. a red and white stick cost me grand total of $1.40 which included tax
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  #33  
Old 07-19-2008, 11:22 PM
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How do the crayons hold up in the heat??? It gets kinda warm around here and it seems like the crayon might just melt off.
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  #34  
Old 09-26-2007, 7:43 PM
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Very nice collection mate!
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  #35  
Old 09-27-2007, 7:20 AM
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fwiw: if you take a hair dryer to the crayon for a little bit, you get a more even filling.
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  #36  
Old 10-11-2007, 11:15 AM
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I used the oil pastels and they worked great. I will prolly change the green logo back to white.



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  #37  
Old 10-15-2007, 9:18 PM
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Thumbs up Here's a tutorial for China markers

http://www.memorableplaces.com/m1gar...ringstep1.html

Bruce
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  #38  
Old 10-19-2007, 12:59 AM
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a free crayon offer from toys r us valid only from oct 18-19.

http://slickdeals.net/?pno=10485&lno=1&afsrc=1
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  #39  
Old 12-25-2007, 7:41 AM
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Does this work on any blued gun? I have a bunch of white pastels and a Beretta 92.
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  #40  
Old 01-28-2008, 4:45 PM
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I know this is an old thread and has pretty much died, but I just wanted to throw in my experience for anyone thinking of doing this.

I went with the Testor's Acrylic paint and I highly suggest you DON'T go that route. It was messy and was pretty much a headache. It wasted a lot of time and $3 on the paint.

What I do suggest is Crayons. That made everything much easier, cleaner, and quicker. Just scribble the crayons on, wipe away with your finger the excess crayon, then use CLP and a napkin or tissue to wipe away the tougher excess and if you want take a match to the crayon to get it to melt into the engraving.
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