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  #1  
Old 11-25-2011, 6:38 PM
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Default Disassembly and polishing CZ SP01 Tactical or phantom / cz 75BD / P01 *PIC HEAVY*

Mods: Up to you guys, but if we could leave this in the handgun section for a couple days so some people could see this, it would be awesome. Feel free to move it at any time to gunsmithing.

With the current bit of CZ love going on, and very little amount of information on them compared to other brands, I thought it would be helpful to put together a little How-To on taking apart the CZ sp01 Tactical. This information would carry over to the P01, and in some parts over to any of the CZ 75 Series.

CZ's are great pistol, are very well priced, and great shooters. However, they do come from the factory a bit rough around the edges on the internals compared to a lot of other guns on the market. This does not effect there reliablity, or overall function. With a couple hours of work, about $140 worth of parts from Cajun Gun Works, you can have a great SA trigger, and smooth out and lighten the DA pull.

Just to put it out there, a lot of what I did is following some of the guides on the CZ forms, which I will link at the end of the post. I will admit, they have some better pictures, and may work better for you.

Parts used on my gun: CGW trigger kit #4, CGW lightened mainspring, FPB spring, FP spring, CGW floating trigger pin.

BEFORE DOING ANYTHING CLEAR THE GUN, REMOVE AMMUNITION FROM YOUR AREA

Polishing areas are for any of the CZ75 Series, along with removal of the trigger/trigger bar\
Removal/rebuilding the sear cage is specific to the CZ75 SP01 Tactical, but the p01, and any other decocker model, is very similar with the exception of a spacer used to the left of the sear cage




Field strip the gun. If you cant do this, put down the firearm, and call a gunsmith. Remove the grip panels, and mainspring ( sorry no pictures ). To Do this, press the lanyard against a hard surface, and tap out the pins on the grip. Remove the Mag brake, and the spring should come out easily.

Remove right side decocking lever. Yes, believe it or not, I had a brain dead moment the first time doing this and couldnt get it off. Simply use a small punch to push up the center section and wiggle the lever off


Next, remove the decoker lever, you will need to slide a spring out of the channel to get it to come out. It should come out just by pushing, DO NOT use a hammer/punch. If it isnt coming out, you havent moved the spring.



After removing the decocker, Your going to knock out the sear cage pin. If the first time, this pin is going to be a PITA to get out, at least on mine the pin was stalked in. I used a starter punch provided by CGW to do this, and used a roll of packaging tape to brace the gun. Its going to take a couple good smacks to get it started. If you are using a starter punch, switch to a 1/16 punch to fully remove the pin.





At this point, many people use a slave pin to keep the sear cage assembly together. I dont...pop out the sear cage, it will fall apart so be sure not to lose a part. This will be the fun part later to come.



Next, remove the trigger and trigger bar by popping out the trigger pin. This is another pin that you will basically have to maul to get out, I suggest replacing it with a CGW trigger pin. This will make it MUCH easier to break down the gun later if you wish to do more polishing/trigger work. Be sure to put a rag on top of where the trigger return spring is, it will fly out with some force if you don't.

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Last edited by zfields; 05-20-2012 at 7:55 AM..
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  #2  
Old 11-25-2011, 6:38 PM
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Now, polishing the trigger bar. I use a combination of 600, 1000, 1500 grit sandpapers, and a dremel with a polsihing wheel and some high grade polishing compound. The point of this is NOT to remove tooling marks, because some will be very deep, but instead to smooth out the surface so the metal parts can glide over each other. This is going to get a lot of the grit out of the trigger




I also polish the bottom of the sear cage.




So after polishing the trigger bar, to reassemble I use the CGW trigger pin, since the old pin be basically dead. To make this a bit easier, on the longer arm of the trigger return spring, there will be a very slight bend. Using needle nose pliers, I give it a VERY SLIGHT added bend. place the trigger bar and trigger back into place, and pre-set the trigger by slightly putting in the trigger pin to hold in place. Place the trigger return spring back into place, with the long arm going into the slot on the frame, and the shorter arm going into the trigger. I use the back of my punch to push the spring into place, and then push the pin through.



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Old 11-25-2011, 6:39 PM
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Next up : putting the sear cage back together. The joyful part of the job.

First part, making a slave pin. I use a trimmed Q tip, sized just under the width of the sear care.


Using this cart from CZ-USA to help align the parts we are going to start reassembling the cage by pulling back the slave pin to the LEFT side of the cage, and working to the right.



Decocker and sear on so far, this is were it gets fun



Adding the springs. Go slow, be patienent. Its very frustrating if you have fat thumbs. I usually use a pair of tweezers to get the springs in place. DO NOT try to "spring" the springs yet...that comes later. Just get them in place.



When putting back on the FPB, be sure to place the spring correctly.

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Last edited by zfields; 11-25-2011 at 6:46 PM..
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  #4  
Old 11-25-2011, 6:40 PM
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This should be what it looks like. Remember that spring I said not to spring, were going to do it now.



Using a small screw driver, or blade, pull the hook over the first leg of the sear.




Next, do the same to hook it on the decocker. You can pull out the slave pin slightly to give yourself some flex to do this, just carefuller it doesn't fly apart on you.



Bam, should look like this. The FPB and decocking lever should have tension on them if you press against them



Place the sear cage back into the frame, BE SURE THE HAMMER IS PLACED CORRECTLY IN RELATION TO THE SEAR. The first time I did this, the hammer was over the sear, and I chipped the sear trying to get it to fit.

Using a small hammer, gently tap the pin back through the frame. You may need to place some pressure against the springs/sear to get the pin to align and go threw easily.




The reassembly is basically backwards of what we did earlier. This is my first time doing any sort of write up like this, I apologize if stuff isnt clear. Feel free to PM or post for clarification so I can update this.

-Z



This information was pulled from a few threads from the CZ forms.
http://www.czfirearms.us/index.php?P...&topic=42537.0

http://www.czfirearms.us/index.php?P...&topic=42990.0
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Last edited by zfields; 11-25-2011 at 6:57 PM..
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  #5  
Old 11-25-2011, 6:40 PM
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  #6  
Old 11-25-2011, 7:19 PM
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Nice write up!!!
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  #7  
Old 11-25-2011, 7:31 PM
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Great timing! I will be tackling this in about 2 weeks when i get my P-01.
That sear cage is a bit more complicated than the SA models.
I'm still undecided about doing this myself or asking David at CGW if he can do it for me. But your post may just get me through it. thanks!
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Old 11-25-2011, 7:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smeg View Post
Great timing! I will be tackling this in about 2 weeks when i get my P-01.
That sear cage is a bit more complicated than the SA models.
I'm still undecided about doing this myself or asking David at CGW if he can do it for me. But your post may just get me through it. thanks!
The sear cage is like night and day to the SAO models. Just remember on the P01 there is going to be a spacer you need to push out of the way on the left side of the gun. The Sp01 Tac, where the spacer would be is taken up by the frame.

David is the man, if you can afford it, let him work his magic. Its not fun sticking that cage back together, but if you go slow, and dont get frustrated real fast like I do, its not to bad.
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  #9  
Old 11-25-2011, 8:35 PM
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That's a great write-up! I'd probably have pieces left over after reassemble, just like everything else I take apart and put back together!
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Old 11-25-2011, 8:53 PM
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Don't know enough about CZ's to comment on the content, but the presentation for sure gets an A+.
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Old 11-26-2011, 6:01 AM
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Zac,

You just set the bar for a "how-to" on CZ decockers. Bravo!! I will bookmark this thread for future reference.

There are a lot of the those CGW trigger pins floating around now days
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Old 11-26-2011, 6:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schmeky View Post
Zac,

You just set the bar for a "how-to" on CZ decockers. Bravo!! I will bookmark this thread for future reference.

There are a lot of the those CGW trigger pins floating around now days
David

Glad you sent me one. The old pin didnt fare very well. CZ isnt nice to the pins when they set them.
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Old 11-26-2011, 7:54 AM
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sweet! that q-tip was a great tip!
thanks alot!
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Old 11-26-2011, 8:29 AM
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We need one of these threads for 1911's/Glocks/Sigs/XD's now! Good job Zfields on the CZ stuff! I dont own yet but I will definitely bookmark this!
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Old 11-26-2011, 8:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sturnovik View Post
We need one of these threads for 1911's/Glocks/Sigs/XD's now! Good job Zfields on the CZ stuff! I dont own yet but I will definitely bookmark this!
If someone wants to donate a PRP or springer trigger kit, ill do one for the XD .45

Really though, the CZ decockers are a bit weird, and I have yet to see a single howto dedicated to the SP01 Tactical, theres a few for the P01 and a really good one for the phantom which I used some of his tips to make this one.
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Old 11-26-2011, 8:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zfields View Post
If someone wants to donate a PRP or springer trigger kit, ill do one for the XD .45

Really though, the CZ decockers are a bit weird, and I have yet to see a single howto dedicated to the SP01 Tactical, theres a few for the P01 and a really good one for the phantom which I used some of his tips to make this one.
Haha, we should! I need to get an XD 40 subc soon!

If we had one for those main 5 brands, trigger jobs/replacing magazine catches/slide locks etc, it would help. This should definitely should get a sticky.
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Old 11-28-2011, 10:12 AM
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Thanks, Z!

Can't wait to get my hands on mine when I get it.
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Old 12-06-2011, 9:33 AM
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Thanks so much for this! I'll be doing this after the holidays. I am signed up for a USPSA newbie class and match and will be using my CZ, but don't have the time to do this before hand. So bookmarking for new year project!

Great write up, very much appreciated!
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Old 12-06-2011, 10:42 AM
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Nice write up.
Anyone have any idea how you take out an ambi safety on a sp01?
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Old 12-06-2011, 10:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lych View Post
Nice write up.
Anyone have any idea how you take out an ambi safety on a sp01?
From what I understand it can be taken off and ground flush. Ive also heard/read about people just replacing it with a standard B safety. No personal experience on this, so dont hold me to it.
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Old 12-06-2011, 3:38 PM
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Just did the install of the CGW Kit#4 in my P-01 over the weekend. All in all, it took me about 2 hours. Took awhile cause I was taking my time making sure to note what each part looked like and trying to remember where everything will go back into. Also, did have a bit of a problem with the sear cage. I was using CGW's decocker install kit which has a slave pin. It worked fine once I realized that there was enough play in those parts in the sear cage that they would misalign and thus make tapping that sear cage pin out impossible. Wasted quite a few minutes before I realized that.

Did get everything back together in about an hour and a half and did a little function check. Looked fine. Now you might be asking yourself that I said it did take me 2 hours to do the install. Well.....once I stopped patting myself on the back for doing a good job I noticed that I had a FPB spring staring straight back at me on the table. ARGH!!!!

That was the other half hour of trying to place the spring back into the sear cage which thankfully didn't required tapping that sear pin totally out. Just had to tap it out enough to clear enough space to push the spring back in. Doubled checked the sear cage to make sure everything was there and functioning and then headed to the range. Only fired 100 rounds cause I was also renting a CZ Rami that I might buy in the future but they went flawlessly.

Pics of the new hammer and disconnector. Also bought a new hammer strut and the accomodating springs just so I could have two whole hammer assemblies in case I needed to swap them out. Didn't want to bother tapping those pins out later.


Last edited by darmog; 12-06-2011 at 3:40 PM..
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Old 12-07-2011, 9:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zfields View Post
From what I understand it can be taken off and ground flush. Ive also heard/read about people just replacing it with a standard B safety. No personal experience on this, so dont hold me to it.
Im not trying to get rid of of the safety just take it apart so I can disassemble the rest of the gun and do some polishing.
I don't think the only way of removing it from the gun is resorting to grinding off one side but there seems to be some trick to dissembling that I'm missing.
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Old 03-17-2012, 12:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zfields View Post
From what I understand it can be taken off and ground flush. Ive also heard/read about people just replacing it with a standard B safety. No personal experience on this, so dont hold me to it.
One problem is CZ has used at least three different types of ambi safety and they aren't the same.
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Old 12-06-2011, 3:40 PM
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Quote:
I noticed that I had a FPB spring staring straight back at me
*chuckle*

I am in that club too.

This is a great thread about a great gun.
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Old 12-06-2011, 3:41 PM
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Quote:
We need one of these threads for 1911's/Glocks/Sigs/XD's now!
Those are perfect out of the box.
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Old 12-06-2011, 3:58 PM
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The CGW kits are a great deal. I had already purchased my CZCustom Competition Hammer though. The adjustable sear is worth it in the kit. I'll have to grind the safety leg of my sear down or else file down the safety bar (or whatever it's called).
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Old 12-07-2011, 6:54 AM
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Zfields,

Thanks for the hard work.

Gib
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Old 12-07-2011, 7:51 AM
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zfields...

My hat is off you for this one.

Finally some useful information in this forum instead of the typical internet arm chair ballistic expert discussions and other garbage.

I don't own a CZ but thank you so much!

My buddy needs help with a complete detail strip of a 75 Tactical Sport.

Hopefully this helps him some.
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Old 12-07-2011, 8:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JaeOne3345 View Post
zfields...

My hat is off you for this one.

Finally some useful information in this forum instead of the typical internet arm chair ballistic expert discussions and other garbage.

I don't own a CZ but thank you so much!

My buddy needs help with a complete detail strip of a 75 Tactical Sport.

Hopefully this helps him some.
Hes lucky, the sear cage is much simpler. Pretty much any guide basing on the CZ 75 B is close, just it wont have the disconnecter.

Glad this can help.
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Old 12-07-2011, 9:34 AM
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Oh, im sorry I thought you wanted to make it a single side only. My mistake.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t1Lzu...eature=related

This video may help you, its on sp01 shadow, but its the same safety. The sear spring is whats holding it together according to that video.
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Old 01-28-2012, 1:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zfields View Post
Oh, im sorry I thought you wanted to make it a single side only. My mistake.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t1Lzu...eature=related

This video may help you, its on sp01 shadow, but its the same safety. The sear spring is whats holding it together according to that video.
HELP!
While dissasembling, a small piece fell off, and I didnt get a chance to see where it belong
on this video, the guy calls it "suport piece" and removes it at 2:21.
Im hoping someone can show me a pic of where I should install it back for reassembly.
thanks!
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Old 01-28-2012, 2:50 AM
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Nevermind, got it.
thanks for the thread Zfields..
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Old 01-28-2012, 7:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GuillermoAntonio View Post
HELP!
While dissasembling, a small piece fell off, and I didnt get a chance to see where it belong
on this video, the guy calls it "suport piece" and removes it at 2:21.
Im hoping someone can show me a pic of where I should install it back for reassembly.
thanks!
Lol what did you lose?
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Old 02-09-2012, 8:36 AM
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Great post zfields!

Was planning on another Glock due to platform familiarity / experience, aftermarket, video tutorials, etc.... but for some reason a new P-01 is calling my name. Your excellent post just might get me over the edge!

Now it's either the P-01... or wait for the P-02 w/ omega.
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Old 02-09-2012, 12:46 PM
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The omega is a completely different trigger system. No one that I know of is doing any trigger parts for them right now.

But from what I hear, its not to bad to start with.
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Old 02-10-2012, 10:47 AM
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Zfields, great info. Will there be a part 2 on shortening the trigger reset?
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Old 02-10-2012, 12:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Caseless View Post
Zfields, great info. Will there be a part 2 on shortening the trigger reset?
Haven't planned on it, I don't have an issue with the reset on my sp01. From a lot of the info, its a lot more work then one might think. Check out the CZ forums, there is a few guys over there that have gone through reshaping the FPB lifer and messed with the reset.
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  #38  
Old 03-17-2012, 12:29 PM
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elsolo elsolo is offline
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Zfields, great info. Will there be a part 2 on shortening the trigger reset?
The firing pin blocker lever is the primary cause of the long trigger reset.

You can remove the blocker pin and spring from the slide and grind the lower leg off the lever that actuates it, that's the easiest way.

If you want or need to retain the FPB, you need to make it work with less travel so the triggerbar clears it at the same time it clears the sear lever's lower leg.
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Old 03-17-2012, 12:33 PM
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The firing pin blocker lever is the primary cause of the long trigger reset.

You can remove the blocker pin and spring from the slide and grind the lower leg off the lever that actuates it, that's the easiest way.

If you want or need to retain the FPB, you need to make it work with less travel so the triggerbar clears it at the same time it clears the sear lever's lower leg.
Ive seen some people actually reshape the FPB lifter also. It's interesting what some people have done with it.
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Old 11-04-2012, 11:15 PM
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The firing pin blocker lever is the primary cause of the long trigger reset.

You can remove the blocker pin and spring from the slide and grind the lower leg off the lever that actuates it, that's the easiest way.

If you want or need to retain the FPB, you need to make it work with less travel so the triggerbar clears it at the same time it clears the sear lever's lower leg.
The spacer is 2.5mm wide with a 3mm hole and about 5mm in diameter. The ones supplied by CGW are nylon. Shouldn't be too hard to find at a hobby shop or a real hardware store.
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