View Single Post
Old 04-30-2012, 9:02 AM
stilly stilly is offline
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Currently in a shanty I made in the river bottom by Eastvale.
Posts: 10,505
iTrader: 51 / 100%

Originally Posted by cycle61 View Post
Lee manual removed.

Lyman manual added.

Primer flip tray added.

(2) 2-packs of bushings, case trimmer/lock stud, case length gage, and depriming die added.

I'm up to $227 now.

Thanks for the information on powders and primers, the AA#9 looks like a good way to go. Being able to load lighter is important, as I definitely want to be able to do some .44 special power rounds for my girlfriend to shoot. She's a bit intimidated by the magnums at this point. Hopefully I can find some supplies locally (San Jose/Santa Cruz area) to avoid shipping/hazmat/etc for right now.

I would classify myself as a patient and detail-oriented person, definitely. I've watched some videos on the included beam scale, and I can see getting along with it for a good while. I have good digital calipers already, so that's covered. Regarding case length gauges and trimmers, how necessary are those on rounds being used exclusively in a revolver? My understanding is that many semi-autos are finicky about length, revolvers not so much. Or am I confusing OAL with case length? How much does .44 brass stretch with normal rounds? Do I need a separate crimping die, and should I get the separate de-priming die to keep the sizing die clean? Will my head explode before I figure all this out?

Thanks again.
Well I can pretty much tell you that shooting from a revolver is fun but it will kick a bit more than a Deagle. I was not into reloading when I had my Colt Kodiak. I have heard and read that some folks NEVER really trim their cases. In a revolver the case is usually fully supported by the cylinder and as such it is only when you start having crimp problems and you get really deformed cases which could take a few loads to do. I dunno about the longevity with .44 but so far mine are up to 2+ and they are looking good. Another person I talked to said his .45 shells last for like 20-30+ reloads. Take care of the brass and do not do any CRAZY loads and they will last longer. All of that case checking stuff is like a spare tire though, if you need it it is good to have and what do they cost? a few dollars more?
I think OAL is the cartridge AFTER seating the bullet. Case length is just that, the length of the CASE. WOOHOO! I just got a call from XTREME bullets! $60 shipped for 500 of their 240gr 44 mag FLATPOINTS and they are rated to 1500 FPS! GOOOOOOOOOOOOAAAAAAAAAAAAAAL! (that is cheaper than my rainier 240gr hp rated at 1250 fps that I paid $71 + shipping from midway for)

Sorry, where were we? With you shooting from a revolver your brass will last a bit longer. My Deagle punishes the brass. He rips it out and throws it against the back wall and when I look at it it has teeth marks on the rim and an extra smack on the head. Last I checked revolvers were more civil.

As far as the powders go. Good for you. I am relying on Bill and bubbapug1 that they have a lot of experience with that AA#9. I have not used it yet but then again, I am on my 90th reloads today to go test the 44 mag out. I can tell you for certain though that AA#7 has good speed but is really soft. I got it to where it did not cycle properly. but in a revolver shooting that load at about 1100 fps your GF should have no problems. AA#9 is prolly right up there slightly above it. The H110 though, EEEDOGGY! I only loaded it up with 23.1gr of that stuff and a max load is supposedly 24 but it depends on the source. I got some 23.6 loaded up for today. Gonna come back with my highbeams on for the rest of the day...

I am torn on the manuals. (no pun intended) I think you should for sure own one or two or three, obviously the more the merrier. HOWEVER, there is a LOT of free information out there also and even though it may not be published and accepted as gospel in a printed media form, when it comes down to it, any errors in the book that YOU follow and blow yourself up with can not be put on them anyways so just compare loads to others and keep that. and do NOT take your Book of Lyman as infalible holy words like I did. I did that because the Book of Lee kinda gave off that vibe. I had to make the sign of the cross and genuflex (sp?) before I opened it up and read any of it. Now it sits by the toilet... To Bill's credit, YES the Book of Lee is like the dictionary of loads and there are a TON of loads in it. That is the ONLY thing that kept me from blasting a hole in mine at the range. But they do not tell you what those loads were tested with and compared to what I have been making they are off. Of course any good chef has many cookbooks and if nothing else they are great for load recipes. Your dies will also come with load recipes and they wil ask you to send a dollar for more I think. Of course it is your money so yes, it is a good thing to keep it on the list BUT just do not read it first. Read the Book of Lyman first. The Book of Lyman has about 1/5 as many loads it seemed but it was not The Book of Lee so I was happy to rebel. I bet a reloading magazine would be cool to have too. Each month they can publish a load data block for specific calibers... That would be cool. There is also a cool place to check out called They have GREAT resources there and even cost calculators so you can see what your powder + bullets + brass will end up costing you per shot.

I dunno what kind of student you were but it might be kind of hard to read the how to manuals and NOT do anything. I was kind of pressured by my friend because he wanted to see how to use the press I got but he did not want to sit around and stare at me reading the book so I experimented here and there. I am GLAD that I painfully made my way through all of those chapters though and I even skipped a few on casting and loading for rifles. I figure that I will return when I get there.

I only decap with a hand press because I want CLEAN primer pockets and the last time I checked I tumbled (on accident) shells with spend primers still in them and after letting them sit for a day under the fan and THEN decapping them, there was still water in the primer pockets. Plus with the primers still in it kind of creates a vaccuum and does not let the water just flow out as easily as when there are no primers. This could be an issue with the ss pins sticking inside as well... But it is al up to you, some folks have no problems with dirty primer pockets. It could just be that I am a spent primer phobe...

Okay I am spent (yes pun intended) so now I am gonna go and see if that metal 505 scale is still available. I dunno how old it is but it was rather nice and in the box all wrapped in plastic and all. I am excited about getting an analog scale. (0o0o0o next I will be excited about starting a mid morning fiber routine...)

Have fun.

Last edited by stilly; 04-30-2012 at 9:18 AM..
Reply With Quote