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Old 09-14-2013, 11:42 PM
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John Browning John Browning is offline
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Join Date: May 2006
Location: Contra Costa County
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Originally Posted by 79camaro View Post

Regarding the straps in step #9 of your sticky, where did you get them and do you have pictures of how exactly they go on the safe?
They came as part of the pallet of one of the safes I bought. On your cheaper safes there will be very little on the bottom and you can just use them basically as one big strap between anchor holes. It acts somewhat like one big washer and is great because the bottom of most gun safes would rip out long before the bolts give.

Originally Posted by 79camaro View Post
Well, I am having more problems figuring out how/if I should bolt down the safe than when I was trying to decide WHICH safe to get! LOL!

I'm not sure I will build a raised slab in my closet, that might work great in the garage....but not in a closet. At the same time, I am having great doubts about drilling (even 3/4") into the I am leaning towards the 4x4s epoxied onto the floor and using lag bolts to secure the safe to the 4x4s

I plan on getting a security system, so I just want to slow down the burglar. Odds are that IF my house is broken into, it will NOT be a pro, but rather a meth head that is just looking for quick "grab and run" items. So, I don't believe he would even mess with the safe, and if he did, he would do minimal damage to it and the police get there while he's trying to figure out which kitchen knife to use on the safe!
If I were putting a safe in a closet, I'd lag it to floor joists if they are there. If it is concrete, I'd probably build a false wall and try to conceal it. I definitely wouldn't put a raised slab in a closet.
Securing a safe to a Post-tension slab - DIY

For Sale: Canik TP9SA, S&W Pre-lock 617, Various Pre lock S&Ws, USFA Engraved gun - NorCal

Originally Posted by KWalkerM View Post
eh why bring logic into this, that makes too much sense... besides when you have bested a fool, you have accomplished nothing and he is a fool.
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