Originally Posted by kcstott
Boy if that ain't the truth.
You can buy all the hip new whizz bang stuff. I've been a machinist tool and die maker for quite some time and in a industry that relies on proper lube we don't get many new fangled products to try as this industry is brutally honest and has a very educated bunch of people doing the work. Trying to pass of some relabeled BS ain't gonna fly.
The biggest thing to come along in the oil industry in general is synthetics.
The biggest thing to come along in the Gun oil industry is the flavor of the week.
When everyone figures out that plain old dino juice is fine and synthetic dino juice is better you can buy that stuff by the gallon for what 8 oz. of some whizz bang gun oil goes for.
From a purely scientific stand point you want three to four properties in your gun oil.
1. Lubrication. all oil does that to varying degrees
2. Anti Oxidants, Rust inhibitors.
3. Resistance to temperature change
4. Water resistance if needed.
That's it. You don't need some covalent bond to the steel or Ionic polarization.
That last one is funny as there was a lube years ago sold as being a polarized lube. ALL petroleum oils are polarized thats one of the reasons they can get as much energy out of oil as they can. But that's another thread.
So back to the original four properties we require for gun oils. Think about it, what oil has great lubrication properties has anti oxidant properties, Resists changes in properties due to temperature changes. Good old Hydraulic oil.
Now Compressor, Turbine oil, and a good grade of Hydraulic oil will all fit the bill perfectly and you can buy a gallon of it for $10 or less. and up to $30 for the High end turbine or compressor oils. So for $30 a gallon your 4 oz bottle of whizz bang gun oil that's 5$ to $7 a bottle would cost you a whopping $.93 a bottle or $7.50 a quart.
Yeah Know what 3 in one oil is made from?? Hydraulic oil with added corrosion inhibitors and some scented oil to make it smell unique Thats it.
Now if you must have the best in water resistance or cold temp operation then you need to look at a synthetic. But this stuff is not as complicated as they try to make it out to be.
Depends on your use, I wipe down my shell plates, dies and trimmers with frog lube to keep them from rusting, also have used on on exterior of my guns for the same purpose. Seems to be a good cleaner to use and leave in barrel to prevent rust too. But I certainly would not want to put oil on some of these things. I like that frog lube changes consistency with temperature. In my gun safe the paste does not drain away from my Uppers and BCG's like my break free CLP did (get to the range and oops it's dry)....But I do worry it might not lubricate enough at extremely high temperatures. Seems to work great in my AR's and hand guns, but I still use grease for the M1 internals and other bolt guns I own as well.