Having fun with a 10/22 build
Ok I wanted to build a rifle! an AR or an AK...nah. I thought I'd start with baby steps, and do a 10/22.
Well I contacted Woodey, got into the build party and bought a receiver...
Ok I guess I need to start reading and buying components. Thanks for the parts list and links in the build party thread.
Then I took my old 10/22 apart, wow that was easy!
Since I'm lucky enough to have a nice shop(there's two thing I buy when I can and never sell...Tools and Guns:D:56::30:) and wow a new project, time for some new tools!!!
Got my new drill bits, a tap, and an adjustable reamer. When I got my new SS barrel I checked it to the stock Ruger barrel and guess what, different size!
Now I don't know if it is a big difference, but it was different (.0015" to .002")
No it's not 15 thousands, it was 1.5 to 2 thousands. So I'm thinking if everybody uses a 11/16" drill bit, wont some barrels be loose and others might be way tight! I've worked with Al. in a lot of projects so I went with a 21/32" bit and an adjust reamer. thought I play with them tonight, and this is what I found.
Does any one have a reason why I shouldn't install the barrel this way?
Can't wait to get my hands on the receiver and get this build going!!!
On a related note...
I was at the Sac. gun show today and 2 different dealers said that the DOJ was working to stop the practice of buying/selling 80% lowers for home building!!! Has anyone heard anything about this??? Any truth to what they said???
I'll be interested to hear the responses about mounting a barrel this way.
re the DOJ. They may want to stop the practice, but I don't think they have the legal grounds to do it. At least I hope not.
Ooh, legal advice at a gun show! lol, they just make it up as they go.
As for the reamer, seems to be the right way to go, I'm just going with an 11/16 straight reamer for mine.
As long as you don't shoot the gun to point where it reaches 200 degrees @ the barrel band, you should be GTG!
If you use a 21/32" bit to drill the barrel hole, How will you keep it centered in the 11/16" (22/32") drill bushing the TM jig has?
I think the reamer will follow where the original hole is drilled and if off center, even half of the space difference (1/64" or .0156") the barrel hole could also be off - even if using the jig.
I would be interested in what others have experienced and the best precautions that are available.
I'm sure others with experience will chime in here shortly.
I did a couple, just tried out the second one for the first time yesterday. I recommend the reamer. I used an 11/16 drill bit and ended up with a slightly loose fit. ..Anyone want a 11/16 bit, use twice ??. Not sure if fit was the cause, since I just used second hand factory barrels, but I was getting about 5" groups at 100yd with the scoped one. The iron sights rifle is tighter. I could tell by the sound when drilling it that it was vibrating less. Funny thing is when I did that one I used a slightly higher rpm. Oh well, gonna tighten up the v block, bed the barrel and try it again today. Maybe need to spring for a GM barrel.....
I did mine on a mill. A jig will save a bunch of time. To center the barrel hole with the jig you'd need to make a bushing. The other option is to replace the jigs bushing with 21/32. I have not seen a jig, but I assume the bushing can be pressed out and replaced easily.
One other bit of advice I'd offer is to check the action before finishing. I had to mill about 0.003 out of the top of one of mine for the bolt to slide smoothly. I smoothed it out with 600 grit paper. Both are anodized finish.
I made a few drill bushings and seemed to work OK.
Started with a drill bushing that was 9/16". Wanted to have something substantial and not wimpy like a 1/4" that could deflect easily.
Then switched to the 5/8" bushing and then removed all and reamed to 11/16".
Nice and snug.
I first squared the jig with a dial indicator, and centered the mill over the jig bushing with a co-ax indicator. All was pretty square and centered before starting any drilling.
If the hole is off 1/64", with the TM receiver that has the scope rail forward and bored for the barrel, there could be an interference issue. Just something to avoid before actually doing any drilling.
I like the bushings!
One of these days I'll learn to measure twice and cut once...:kest:
OK - in order to squeeze out the maximum amount of accuracy possible of a 10/22 build, I would think that the goal would be to achieve a tight barrel to receiver fit. I'm sure that a 11/16" drill bit for the barrel hole works - but - from what I'm reading on this thread there is the possibility that the barrel hole to barrel interface can be a little loose.
With this in mind, the Gen 8 Drill Fixture on the following website has you use a 1/4" punch to mark the barrel hole center location on the face of the receiver. You do not use the Barrel Hole Locator as a drill jig. Rather, it sounds like you make your locating 1/4" punched "center mark", and then go straight to the 11/16" drill bit, and bore away on the front of the receiver - using (1) drill to go from "nothing" to your barrel hole. The instructions do not mention about starting out with a small drill bit, and from there working your way up to an 11/16" drill bit...
Link showing Gen 8 Jig (3rd picture down from the top): http://www.ruger1022receiver.com/Dri...structions.htm
With the method (ABOVE) in mind, could a person go another direction - for instance; you punch your centering mark with the 1/4" punch, then using that centering mark start the barrel hole with a series of small drill bits, work your way up to a 21/32" "Silver and Deming" type drill bit, and finish the barrel hole with a 11/64" High Speed Steel (HSS) "chucking" type reamer or?
One thing I learned from AK builds/BP's is that there is more than one way to hit your goal - some ways being even easier, or not much more work, and in the end offering up better results.
I've work with Al. in many alloys and the most important thing I've found is use a sharp tool, second feed and speeds.
If you use a bench top drill press it's hard to get the RPM's low enough not to create heat and vibration. I saw that locating punch and thought about getting one but didn't... yet!
also a pilot drill can help but if your using a mill for the barrel hole, the setup should be stiff enough that you don't need to step drill to the final size.
I would step drill if using a small or light duty drill press.
I've got everything!
I've got EVERTHING!!!!
Now I have to wait for Sat.
Waaaaa!. . . .I want to build and shoot!
Yah I've never been to patient.
Well I figured I post a progress report!
After cleaning up my shop, I decided it was time to finish my build
I did use the undersized drill and reamed the barrel hole to about .001" under the measured size of my Green Mountain Bull barrel then heated the receiver to about 180 to 200 deg.
The barrel slipped right in and I had time to line up the V-block and snug up the V-block as it cooled. it ended up working really well. as for drilling the Barrell hole I didn't use the jig!
I used the milling dimple left on the receiver as the mark to center punch a point for the drill to follow, then reamed it to size.
As others have said my Hogue stock was to tight, had to dremel to size in front of the magazine.
1st pict. My new baby:tt1:
2nd pict. first trip to the range 25yrds :30:
3rd is the chamber?!?!
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