Vader Spade’s 80% AR-15 build - Milling, Etching, & Anodizing
With a Tactical Machining Jig. Customer support at Tactical Machining is second to none, they are great to work with, and have always gone above and beyond.
http://vadertactical.com/ First I want to thank everyone for all the help I’ve received on these boards. I’ve done a few of these now, and I just about have the kinks worked out, so I thought I would pay it forward, and help others with their builds. Now let me say if your trying to save money this is not the place to do it. It cost a lot more to make your own than it does to buy a lower ready to go. Unless of course you already have ALL the tools, cutters, anodizing equipment, etc. The Tactical Machining jig is by far the easiest way to complete an 80% receiver that I’ve tried. I was lucky enough to find a killer deal on a nearly new mill for $850.00 on Craigslist. If your going to try milling with a drill press I would recommend getting (at the least) an X, Y table, and a vise. A small mill would be better. With a drill press you will need to go much slower. Although most jigs are designed to work with a drill press, there are a few problems; the most dangerous of these is your drill chuck coming lose at high speeds. I don’t recommend using a drill press, but I did with my first build, and sure enough the drill chuck came loose and buggered up my FCG pocket. I locked it back into place with RED loctite gave a day to set up, and had no further problems. If you do this you do so at your own risk. I won’t be covering all the measurements and dimensions just yet they are easily available elsewhere. I’ll post a link at some point. http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps54390ba1.jpg http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps41709153.jpg The Tactical Machining jig is very straightforward, use this plate with this end mill, and go slow. |
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I try to get as close as possible to the edge of the plate, for the outline, but I like to leave a few thousandths for the cleanup stage. http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps5e2fbea6.jpg Make sure your cutting edges are below the plate, or you will be ordering a new one. http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps970008ac.jpg Watch your clearance. I can’t reach the back with this setup, but we’ll clean that up later. http://i753.photobucket.com/albums/x...psf0408f50.jpg After you have a good outline remove the top plate, measure twice, and cut carefully. |
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Just short of the .690 spec. We’ll get that with a full-length end mill, for a cleaner cut. http://www.randysrockshop.com/calguns/Dscn7234.jpg It always spooks me when I break through the selector hole. What’s that! Oh ya it’s O.K. |
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http://www.randysrockshop.com/calguns/Dscn7253.jpg As I mover deeper I leave just a little more, kind of a step cut. This keeps shaving from being crushed against the side, and cleans up easily when we move to a full length end mill. |
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Note the depth mark on my end mill, this is my warning mark. Don’t go too deep. http://www.randysrockshop.com/calguns/Dscn7260.jpg My sophisticated measuring tool. |
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First stage done. http://www.randysrockshop.com/calguns/Dscn7276.jpg Switching to the full-length end mill. |
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Taking those last thousandths off the sides and bottom. http://www.randysrockshop.com/calguns/Dscn7282.jpg Finishing the end I couldn’t reach with the short end mill. Measure carefully. |
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Make sure the trigger slides in before you change setups. http://www.randysrockshop.com/calguns/Dscn7292.jpg Now put the top of the jig back on with the trigger slot plate. You may have noticed I skipped the second plate. That plate is for the full depth part of the pocket. If you’re going to use the edge of the plate as a guide it’s a good idea to use it. For me it’s just as easy to measure it in as I clean up with the long end mill. |
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I can’t express how easy this plate makes cutting the trigger hole. Before it was “Change tools from milling to drilling, take three measurements, drill three holes, change back to milling and hope you’re not too far off. Then file the little bit you WILL be off.” With this Tactical Machining jig it take just a few moments. http://www.randysrockshop.com/calguns/Dscn7305.jpg Flip the jig and drill two 5/32nds holes. |
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http://www.randysrockshop.com/calguns/Dscn7320.jpg Check the trigger, and upper fit. You don’t want to be filing after anodizing. |
Etching
Half the fun of building a gun is putting your own mark on it. I have been experimenting with different methods, and short of buying a CNC rig electro etching is the best method I have found. I am etching with a jewelry plating power source but a battery charger will work (not an automatic one). First we make a stencil, by hand or with a vinyl cutter. I use one from U.S. Cutter; http://www.uscutter.com/GreenStar-In...ll_p_1020.html http://www.randysrockshop.com/calguns/Dscn7324.jpg Tape is used to pull the stencil from it’s backing in one piece. http://www.randysrockshop.com/calguns/Dscn7325.jpg The stencil is placed on the receiver with the letters in place. This makes the stencil easier to place, and gives a solid surface to work against. http://www.randysrockshop.com/calguns/Dscn7326.jpg The letters or graphics are then “weeded out”. You will need a magnifying glass (I double up reading glasses) a long needle, and tweezers to pull the bits you want removed. Carefully remove (weed) the parts you want etched. http://www.randysrockshop.com/calguns/Dscn7336.jpg Carefully lift the edge of the bit you want to remove. http://www.randysrockshop.com/calguns/Dscn7341.jpg Pull the bits away with tweezers. http://www.randysrockshop.com/calguns/Dscn7350.jpg My charger is set to the full 12 volts @ 10 amps. The amps that trickle through are determined by how much surface area is contacted by the Q-tip. Place the clip about halfway up on the swab. I place a little solution in a shallow container and dip the Q-Tip, make sure it gets wet up to the clip. There will be bubbling, when this slows and the Q-Tip turns black repeat the process. It can be hard to see how deep your going, when the little islands within the a’s & e’s won’t stay in place you’ve gone about as deep as possible. I should say large open areas do not work as well as smaller outlines. I use about ½ cup of vinegar and a teaspoon of salt. |
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Tape the surrounding area to avoid sparks and etching areas you don’t want etched. http://www.randysrockshop.com/calguns/Dscn7117.jpg I mixed white vinegar with a little salt, dipped a Q-tip into this solution and attached it to the negative side of the charger, then clamped the positive side to the lower. It takes awhile, and starts slowly, but after you break through the surface the pace picks up. http://www.randysrockshop.com/calguns/Dscn7105.jpg http://www.randysrockshop.com/calguns/Dscn7106.jpg |
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http://www.randysrockshop.com/calguns/Dscn7126.jpg A few tips in response to some questions I've received. A cheap NON-automatic automobile battery charger 12 volt, 10 amps should work fine. An automatic automobile battery charger would read a dead short and turn itself off. One thing I learned the hard way is that the positive side needs to be connected to the lower and the negative side to the Q-Tip. I got it backward once and it ate away the clip holding the Q-Tip, and barely marked the work piece (in this case just a piece of scrap). If the bare clip touches bare metal there will be sparks, tape off the surrounding area. I recommend testing any setup on a piece of scrap before trying it on a lower. Example of text; Manufacture City State Model Caliber serial # Max is 10 maybe 12 letters/numbers per line. If you want room for artwork the Manufacture and city should be moved to above the hammer pin/selector area. |
Anodizing
I’m using the Moonlite Anodizing kit, and although I have nothing to compare it with I think it works just great. They have a great how to, so I won’t try to explain everything. I’ll just post pictures with some captions, showing the lowers being anodized. http://www.focuser.com/anodize.html http://www.randysrockshop.com/calguns/Dscn7162.jpg The lineup. http://www.randysrockshop.com/calguns/Dscn7182.jpg Prep the surface, and clean. Submerse in 140 degree cleaner for 5 minutes, then rinse well. |
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Etch at room temperature for a few minutes. http://www.randysrockshop.com/calguns/Dscn7184.jpg Your part will turn black. Rinse. |
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Deoxidize/Desmut the part at room temperature about 3 minutes, and rinse well. http://www.randysrockshop.com/calguns/Dscn7194.jpg It should be shiny again. :) |
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Now we’re anodizing! 68-72 degrees for 75 minutes. Read the instructions as to how to figure voltage and time with your power supply. http://www.randysrockshop.com/calguns/Dscn7195.jpg It should have a nice golden tone when it’s done. Rinse twice. |
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Before and After. http://www.randysrockshop.com/calguns/Dscn7197.jpg Into the dye. 120-140 degrees for 5-20 minutes depending on how dark you want it. |
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Looking good. Rinse it. http://www.randysrockshop.com/calguns/Dscn7200.jpg Finely seal it at 180 degrees for 20 minutes. And rinse for the last time. After that final rinse I like to dry it with a hair dryer, and oil it up. |
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Finished. Never let the part dry between steps, and because of the heat used in some steps that can be tough. |
Why build your own???
For me I’m building family heirlooms, these guns will be here long after I’m gone. I hope they will say something about what I stood for. That’s the second amendment etched into the upper receiver. http://www.randysrockshop.com/calguns/Dscn7069.jpg As to reliability, mine are as good as the best out there. Being perfectionist drives a lot of us that build our own. I have collected arrowheads forever. Most were just chipped to be shot once and never seen again. The builders didn’t put much time of effort into them, and why would they. But others are works of art. Why? Why would someone put so much time and effort into an arrowhead? If you can find the answer to this question you will have your answer. And yes I have built my own Bows and Arrows; I still chip arrowheads now and then. |
NICE, thanks for posting this, I have a TM 80% sitting in the safe, Im just waiting on my friend to have time for me to use his mill, Im going to do it without the jig although it would be nice to have one, it looks alot easier.
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i posted my response over @ CNCGunsmithing, but just in case, here it is also:
nice work VaderSpade! :D i was literally reading this as you posted it... you were one post ahead of me and i just hit refresh each time i got to the end of one, and a new one was there! you've covered the whole process very well... the only things i can think to add at this moment are the need to clean the part very well before it goes into the cleaner bath for ano, wear gloves at all times to avoid getting oils on the part (and protect your hands from nasty chems), and the need for circulation on both the ano and dye baths... your aquarium air pump is visible in your ano bath shot, but some folks might not notice it. anyway, great thread and i'm sure it will be useful and encouraging to those considering getting into this um.... addiction we have :p |
Wow, nice looking job. The ano set up looks like high school science project or Lake county crank lab. How do you make the stencils? or do you by them from a vinal graphics guy? Job well done. The colored ones are way cool
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i know you had some installation/software nightmares with it... i think i may need to get myself one of these things :rolleyes: |
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whoah thats a biggie... like 25" or something...
i have no plans to make big signs or anything... think i'll stick to the hobby letter or legal size models :p thanks for the info, you got a great deal if you got one of those big boys for $250! |
Great write up- should be a sticky! Thanks for sharing.
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Looking Good to Go...
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Very nice tutorial.
How does the anodizing compare to a commercial hard-coat anodize? Would you consider selling custom stencils? Maybe text only? I'd be interested. |
Dang...
We're not worthy, We're not worthy. Nice build, I hope to see it in person someday. Can we have a geocache shooting event up here? |
That is SO COOL!! Nice work Vader, can't wait to see them!
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great job, very impressive!
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I'll think about the stencils, but I don't seem to have enough time latley. |
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Awesome job! Great write up! Thanks for sharing!
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Nice thread. Whenever I'm working on projects I like to be able to see pictures that go along with the text instructions. There are some things that just can't be put into words and it can be very worrisome to take a step you think you have right but have never completed. Also, it looks like you put a lot of work into documentation, the pictures are all perfect. I know from experience that it can take all day to take pictures while completing a process that might otherwise take an hour or so; add to that another day for selecting, cropping pictures etc.
I think guns rank somewhere between family members and pets in our family; each one is full of stories and memories; each has it's own personality. |
very nice work. The only question I have is. What is the type of tape used when doing the etching? Where do you get it? Thnaks for any info on this.
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