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-   -   Making your own steel targets...... (https://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/showthread.php?t=92985)

CaliAR 03-24-2008 3:29 PM

Making your own steel targets......
 
Does anyone know any resource info on building reactive targets. Im a welder by trade and I want to build Dueling tree for .223. I need some close up pics or drawing to see how the spring mechenism works. Or any other useful info I need. I already make swinging targets. But really want a dueling tree capable of .223.

G17GUY 03-24-2008 8:12 PM

the dueling tree I have seen just swings back and forth with bump stops

Bugei 03-25-2008 12:33 PM

I've got one. Here's the best description I can give you for what it looks like. You take a standard t-post and four pieces 4" of pipe. The pipe is cut at about 15 degree angle on one end (that's the top) and square at the other.

You weld the pipe chunks to the back side of the t-post, away from the shooter, so that the HIGH point of the angle is away from post and the square end is toward the bottom. To put it another way, flat part of the pipe chunks down and rotate the pipe so that that tallest part of it is away from the t-post.

Cut 4 5" pieces round stock that fits the inside of the pipe, not too tight (it needs to rotate). To each of these, weld 4" of round or square stock at a 90-degree angle. At the end of each of those pieces, weld a 4x4" steel flag, of a guage that isn't going to bend or get drilled through with the caliber you're shooting.

Put the round stock inside the pipes on the back of the t-post. If you've done it right, the weight of the flag will cause the flag to want to be to one side or the other. If you whack it, it should "climb" the top of the pipe and either go over the peak and down the other side or slide back. You may need to do a little filing and polishing to get them to run smooth.

When they run smooth, you put two flags on one side, two on the other. You and your shooting buddy face off against the target and someone (else) says "Go". First guy who gets all his flags on the other guy's side wins. I guess you could play Shanghia rules and toss a can; when it hits, you git to shooting.

Drive the t-post in at your favorite shooting location. Remember, lots of ranges don't let you draw from the holster. I guess you could build some angle-iron feet for the bottom if you're dragging it back and forth to the range.

Gee, this doesn't really sound all that clear. Does it make sense?

I don't know if building these yourself is as cost effective as buying one, but I'm no welder. For me, it was just cheaper buying it. On the other hand, I bet some of your shooting buddies might buy some, if you set to running up a batch of them.

Bugei 03-25-2008 12:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bugei (Post 1089149)
....and four pieces 4" of pipe.

Actually, I meant "4 pieces of 1-inch pipe, cut to 4 inches"

G17GUY 03-25-2008 4:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bugei (Post 1089153)
Actually, I meant "4 pieces of 1-inch pipe, cut to 4 inches"

Can you post some pictures

JPglee1 03-25-2008 4:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CaliAR (Post 1087041)
Does anyone know any resource info on building reactive targets. Im a welder by trade and I want to build Dueling tree for .223. I need some close up pics or drawing to see how the spring mechenism works. Or any other useful info I need. I already make swinging targets. But really want a dueling tree capable of .223.


Im a weldor too (welder is the machine..to be nit picky lol)

I would suggest that the impact plates be AT LEAST 3/4" thick, or 2 layers of 1/2" welded together.

A .223 SS109 round should have no trouble passing thru 1/2" mild steel at ranges of 100yds or less....

I personally like to make "swingers" where the bottom plate is 1" thick steel (layered or otherwise) and about 12x12" and the top plate is 1/2" thick and about 6"x6". The top plate is a "no shoot" for rifles, I use it for pistols up close.

I keep it simple,

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b3...e1/Target1.jpg

A) Usually something like 1x1 or 1x2 square stock, 1/8" to 1/4" wall thickness... Don't want it TOO heavy to deal with, but you DO want it solid

B) I like to use a length of allthread and double nuts w/washers along with tubing to make the "pivot" on the spinners... You can also break it down for easier setup/transport in this fashion, all it takes is a crescent wrench or 2.

C) 12x12 plate (or however big you want...in the drawing they are closer to 8x8)

D) 6x6 plate


As you can see, it can be super simple. I like to weld the legs to old diesel truck brake drums, or alternately use legs embedded in a bucket of concrete...


Good luck.


JP

P.S> I can build these for other Calgunners if they are willing to supply/buy the material.... PM for info.

Bugei 03-26-2008 8:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by G17GUY (Post 1089647)
Can you post some pictures

I'll see what I can do. Probably more like diagrams, rather than pictures, because I'm suggesting different materials than the commercial dueling tree. It'll take a couple of days.


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