How to dissasemble High Primer Rounds
 

Hello all,

I recently started reloading and my first batch had some primers that were not seated all the way and we finished them on a progressive press.

Now that we have ironed out the process and everything is rolling smoothely we would like to disassemble the high primer rounds and reuse the components (minus primer of course).

We bought a hammer puller and in the instructions it says not to use the hammer puller with high primers.

So my question is, how do we safely dissasemble these rounds?

thanks,

Interested in the answers you get, I'm a beginner myself.

How to dissasemble High Primer Rounds
 

Edit: my bad, take em apart, you dont want that going off in your face. Kinetic pullers are cheap, i just bought a used one from another calgunner for $6. Ive already made my money back on pulled projectiles.

The hammer says not to use on high primers, most guns say no to reloads. Sometimes you have to be a cowboy LOL.

RCS.

These rounds are already primed, charged and bullet seated. It was not until the process was finished on the lee 1000 that i noticed the primers were seated too high so i cant run them back through the deprime and resize die.

i've heard you can try to push the primer in all the way using the press but with a live round i don't think that is a smart idea.

EDIT: Nevermind. But I am going to watch this thread.

Why you shouldn't use an inertial puller with a high primer

http://www.shootersforum.com/handloa...r-warning.html

I think these are fully loaded rounds with powder and bullets seated.. not sure if you can run them through the priming station only to fully seat the primer?

You have two options...

Spend CASH and buy a collet bullet puller to pull the projectiles

If it were me, I would use the kinetic / hammer style puller...

Bullets not in a chamber are safe if they go off... the puller might act as a chamber and build up pressure - aka PVC Pipe bomb...

As long as the primers are secure, just seated a few thousands too high, I would don some eye protection and pull the bullets from the few that are too high....

You could also drill a couple of small holes in the puller to act as vents should a round ignite... this would weaken the puller just a little bit with 2-3 1/16" diameter holes...


Lastly, you can fill a small dish with WD40 and set the rounds Primer down in the WD40... If the WD40 makes it into the brass past the primer, It will deactivate the primer....

If you do this you should rinse the brass with a degreaser- spritz from some brake cleaner or TCE once the bullets are pulled and re tumble the brass before reloading

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/680...ProductFinding

http://media.midwayusa.com/productim...680/680804.jpg

http://media.midwayusa.com/productim...284/284323.jpg

If you look through the thread he used the shell holder from the rcbs press and not the supplied collets. thus causing the ignition.

What about just reseat the high primers with a hand primer tool?

Is there some reason why you can't re-run the priming operation and finish seating the primers?? I have a hand held primer tool as well as one on my single stage. I had both of these prior to buying my Lee 1K so If I had high primers I think I would just re-run the operation.
My logic is if I don't blow primers seating them then why would they blow on a assembled cartrige? Please let me know if I'm wrong, I am pretty new.

^ done that a few times. This is why I prime separetly now.

The question is why they didn't seat correctly? Is because the primer sitting tool wasn't correctly adjusted or was it a case problem. If it was because the tool wasn't adjusted correctly, I would run them through the press carefully and re seat them. If it was the case, then disassemble.

You can pull the bullet & reset the primer if your more comfy with that . You can run them thru your priming operation if you don't slam things around. My favorite is to use my Lee hand primer.

I would use my kinetic hammer with no reservation. That problem posted was because the guy modified his.

If I find a soft seated primer from the progressive I just press it flush with the lee hand priming tool. THe only time this does not work is in the case of five LC10 .223 cases that didn't have the primer pocket fully reamed and the primers wouldn't actually seat deeply enough, but these were so proud that they wouldn't index on the progressive.

EDIT: None of these have been loaded rounds. You could always just toss your mistakes, it's the smart move.

if it does go boom
 

I like the Lee Hand prime tool... the difference is that should a primer pop- the shell is pointed away from your face if you follow directions....

With a loaded round, the primer ignites the powder and the brass/ bullet get deformed as the powder ignites and you don't know where the jet of gass will go- at your body is bad

DO NOT TRY TO RESEAT A HIGH PRIMER IN AN ALREADY LOADED ROUND!! You could possibly set off the primer and blow your face off!!

Do not try to reseat it if its loaded

just use a hand primer and be done!

Do not use a hand primer!! The round has nothing to keep it contained!! If it should go off sharp brass debris will blow up right in your face! This is not good advice to give!


Please spend the money on a bullet puller... Disassemble and reseat!

Its 20$ or your eye sight? You choose

I originally was thinking this. Then I thought what if powder made between the anvil and pocket. Chances of a detonation are so low, but why risk it. Buy a rcbs puller, you wont regret it.

My suggestion would be to use a kinetic bullet puller or a collet puller. Remove the bullet and powder from the case. Then you can re-seat the primer or remove it by running it through the de-capper die. Personally, I would not attempt to re-seat the primer if it is already a loaded round. Way too dangerous.

Listen to tiller!!!

Allright guys here is the outcome.

The reason the primers were getting seated too high was that we were not pressing down hard enough on the downstroke to seat them properly using the lee 1000 (this was our first batch and we did not have the rhythm down).

I went out and bought an intertia hammer bullet puller (rcbs) and tried it out on some bullets that were seated too deep (primer just fine) to test out how it worked.

after a couple of successful tries with the hammer. i went on and tried them on some rounds where the primer was seated too high.

worked like a charm and had no issues what so ever.

even though the instructions say not too do it, i think there is little to no risk doing it this way.

good to go now.

thanks for the replies.

You just reseat the primers after you have adjusted your machine. The flat primer anvil is not going to set it off.

No brainer.

Use that hammer to yank the powder and bullet, then put the shells back on the press or in a hand press and seat the primers properly, then recharge and reseat and recrimp... Done.

There are too many people afraid of primers. Do not worry about them. They are harmless... :43: Just be careful of where you put them. If you put them in the wrong place and zap them with electricity, you will have a claymore on your hands. Else they are harmless...

Read this about primers:
http://www.predatormastersforums.com/killprimers.shtml
Chief

Trying to reseat the primer while it is charged and has a bullet attached is ****ing retarded. Use the green hammer of shame with the supplied collet and you will be fine, there is nothing touching the primer that could cause it to go off.

Are these military crimped primer pockets?

No.


Just operator error.

That's what I do. I'm not a gambler.

In that case there is no greater risk of explosion in disassembling the rounds using a kinetic bullet puller or reseating the primers using a hand priming tool.