Calguns.net

Calguns.net (https://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/index.php)
-   Manual Rifles Gallery (https://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/forumdisplay.php?f=328)
-   -   After stupid cerakote quotes I spent $6.50 and a few hours (https://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/showthread.php?t=1193099)

DysfunctionalVet 05-01-2016 5:19 PM

After stupid cerakote quotes I spent $6.50 and a few hours
 
This is what I came up with. Midnite black metallic Rustoleum and Satin Black Rustoleum. Not bad for a first try.

I took the action and barrel out of the chassis. Removed the bolt and taped up the chamber and ejection port.

Ended up with this. Thoughts? Criticism?

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...9e051c0028.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...c726ec75a6.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...746d5bc27e.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...ea687e4f8f.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Citadelgrad87 05-01-2016 5:22 PM

Looks great. Durability would be my only concern.

Garv 05-01-2016 5:24 PM

Looks good DV.

Give it a few cleanings and report back.

DysfunctionalVet 05-01-2016 5:34 PM

It has a black base so I went darker with expectations that scratches and dings that will happen may blend in better.

Joe Blowitup 05-01-2016 8:04 PM

It's all good until you pour some solvent on it.

sealocan 05-01-2016 9:22 PM

Looks good but do you have any "before" pictures.

Were you thinking we might like those ones better?

:)

vintagearms 05-01-2016 9:30 PM

Not sure it will hold up with heat and solvents but its your rifle. Not sure why you cheaped out considering what you spent on the stock.

Calico1404 05-01-2016 9:32 PM

Very nicely done.

ar15barrels 05-01-2016 10:20 PM

Looks like a $6.50 paint job.

CALI-gula 05-01-2016 10:26 PM

You got your money's worth that's for sure.

1) Looks like spray paint.

2) It will flake and peel in no time.

3) Will not hold under cleaning and lube.

4) You spent $5.50 too much.

5) In the least, you should have used a black semi-gloss Epoxy paint which will hold up to solvent-based cleaners and heat, if resigning yourself to using spray-paint. Nothing else is worth your time in that regard.

.

SonofWWIIDI 05-01-2016 10:36 PM

It's not for me, but whatever floats your boat.

But it doesn't really matter what we think, do you like it OP? That's what really counts.

If so, don't look back!!!

ExtremeX 05-01-2016 11:31 PM

There is a reason cerakote costs what it costs... its time and labor intensive to apply, it also provides a very high level of durability and corrosion protection... its a very high quality finish when done right.

As far as your paint job goes... looks fine to me, little too shiny for my taste, I like a matte black, but as long as you like it, who cares what others think?

Livetoride33 05-02-2016 4:52 AM

I used the VHT engine paint on my Saiga 12 and made a makeshift oven out of foil faced rigid insulation and a heat gun. I was able to bake it according to the instructions on the can. It has held up to all my gun cleaning solvents, hundreds or rounds of slug, birdshot and buck shot. I did the receiver in metallic grey and the barrel in satin black.

If your paint job fails, you could try that method. It will be more expensive than krylon, but still way cheaper than cerakote. Just rwmember, the VHT paint MUST be baked to stand up to solvents.

seal20 05-02-2016 4:58 AM

Cerakote wears too. If you USE your guns. As far as corrosion resistance, the factory finish will cover that

Fifty226 05-02-2016 6:13 AM

Looks good op. Do you have any before pictures so we can see what it looked like before?

DysfunctionalVet 05-02-2016 6:23 AM

1, I don't plan on dipping my gun into a jug of solvent.
2, I've had cerakoted pistols that did get scratches too.
3, I like it and I'd do it again.

4. Keep the jabs coming.

ChrisDM 05-02-2016 7:23 AM

If you have to do it yourself, Brownells Alumahyde is the way to go. I have painted an ar and an m1a and it holds up fine. The only downside to Alumahyde is it takes a week to cure, but thats why it works.

Sent from my SM-T715Y using Tapatalk

DysfunctionalVet 05-02-2016 7:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChrisDM (Post 18095795)
If you have to do it yourself, Brownells Alumahyde is the way to go. I have painted an ar and an m1a and it holds up fine. The only downside to Alumahyde is it takes a week to cure, but thats why it works.

Sent from my SM-T715Y using Tapatalk

Thanks. I'll check that next time. In another thread it was suggested to use Rustoleum. I guess everything in the interwebz isn't true. Lol

Calico1404 05-02-2016 7:32 AM

Is that the High Temp rusto?

DysfunctionalVet 05-02-2016 7:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Calico1404 (Post 18095839)
Is that the High Temp rusto?

No. Here's a question. I understand wanting high heat on an AR because most likely you'd shoot more than 10 rounds in 2 minutes.

Do you need high heat if not shooting consecutive? Say 1 shot per minute with a max 10 rounds then a 30 minute break.

Citadelgrad87 05-02-2016 7:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DysfunctionalVet (Post 18095868)
No. Here's a question. I understand wanting high heat on an AR because most likely you'd shoot more than 10 rounds in 2 minutes.

Do you need high heat if not shooting consecutive? Say 1 shot per minute with a max 10 rounds then a 30 minute break.

I think it just wears better. It's not really a temp thing.

But I'm not certain.

Calico1404 05-02-2016 7:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DysfunctionalVet (Post 18095868)
No. Here's a question. I understand wanting high heat on an AR because most likely you'd shoot more than 10 rounds in 2 minutes.

Do you need high heat if not shooting consecutive? Say 1 shot per minute with a max 10 rounds then a 30 minute break.

Makes sense, and if all else fails you can always do it again! lol

Or once you get into 3 shot intervals you can judge it then and go high heat if needed.

DysfunctionalVet 05-02-2016 7:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Calico1404 (Post 18095883)
Makes sense, and if all else fails you can always do it again! lol

Or once you get into 3 shot intervals you can judge it then and go high heat if needed.

$6.50 vs $400 quote.

1 vendor here flat out ignored a quote request. Another said he'd get back to me but didn't. The 3rd vendor outside of here quoted $400 with MIL 10% off.

I'd rather have the satisfaction of doing the job myself, numerous times if needed, vs spending a stupid amount of $$ and dealing with vendors who won't respond back.

If the paint fails, oh well. I'll strip it down and apply a different paint and still be well under that $400 quote.

manuelcardenas77 05-02-2016 7:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by seal20 (Post 18095359)
Cerakote wears too. If you USE your guns. As far as corrosion resistance, the factory finish will cover that

Bahahhaha. Serious!

Dano3467 05-02-2016 7:52 AM

Durability will be your issue, but on the plus side you can remove it easily and do something different if you want.

Oh, it dose look pretty good BTW for rattle can.

DysfunctionalVet 05-02-2016 8:08 AM

I know the rifle will get dinged and scratched and what not. The issue I had with the cerakote is the permanence of it and changing my mind later on about color scheme. With rattle can I can strip and re paint over and over.

DysfunctionalVet 05-02-2016 8:11 AM

Before...
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...3296871f1c.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

CALI-gula 05-02-2016 9:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DysfunctionalVet (Post 18095910)
$6.50 vs $400 quote.

If the paint fails, oh well. I'll strip it down and apply a different paint and still be well under that $400 quote.

And it will fail.

In the least, you should have gone with Duracote in a simple spray-can if you want to go the cheap route (about $30). A little more than Rust-O-Leum, but will hold up a lot better, and worth your time versus having to do something twice.

.

DysfunctionalVet 05-02-2016 9:22 AM

I like working on it. Going outside and working on something whether or not it fails is a nice feeling. This project calmed me down and put me in my own calm spot for a hour or two.

I enjoy the process and can't wait to do it again. I'm not looking for something to last forever. Change is good and when the paint fails I'll go do it again.

CALI-gula 05-02-2016 9:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DysfunctionalVet (Post 18096414)
I like working on it. Going outside and working on something whether or not it fails is a nice feeling. This project calmed me down and put me in my own calm spot for a hour or two.

I enjoy the process and can't wait to do it again. I'm not looking for something to last forever. Change is good and when the paint fails I'll go do it again.

Working and change is good. Sloth is a deadly sin, agree.

Failure as an unexpected result is fine. But if knowing failure is the result, it's pointless repetition that borders on insanity, when your time could be better spent on something additional, a new challenge, that requires as much work and process.

Accomplishment, versus jumping through the same hoop.

.

sealocan 05-02-2016 9:42 AM

Thank you for posting the before photo.
now I can see why you wanted to do a paint change from the tan stock. I think I even noticed a few light scratches on the metal as well.
looking at the two photo sets side-by-side I can see that you did a good job in the preparation and painting regardless to whether that particular brand of paint has the durability were all looking for.

I agree with you, sometimes it's good to focus on a gun project and it makes you forget all of life's little problems temporarily.

Lastly don't think of them as "jabs" , just think of them as friendly smacks on the back of your head from your gun "brothers" (who may or may not have just paid $400 for a cerakoat coat paint job themselves).

DysfunctionalVet 05-02-2016 10:56 AM

I still have the tan skins but put the Viper skins on just to see what I like better. I'm still on the fence as to what works better for me. The black skin is 1/2 pound lighter than the tan skin.

sd_shooter 05-02-2016 11:28 AM

At least go with a real gun paint, I've used moly resin.

ExtremeX 05-02-2016 1:14 PM

Do you prefer the Viper Skins over the original thumbhole stock?

The thumbhole very much agrees with me, I think its pretty comfortable. I also like the FDE / Tan.

For a second I thought you painted the plastic, good thing you kept those as they are. I hate to say it but the before picture I like a lot more, I don't see anything wrong with it other than it has a few miles and a little character.

ar15barrels 05-02-2016 1:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DysfunctionalVet (Post 18095831)
In another thread it was suggested to use Rustoleum. I guess everything in the interwebz isn't true. Lol

Krylon is what Milspec Operators use.

DysfunctionalVet 05-02-2016 1:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ar15barrels (Post 18097550)
Krylon is what Milspec Operators use.

I'm no longer mil spec according to the medical squadron and the only thing I can operate is a stapler and I have trouble with those.

Midtown 05-02-2016 1:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DysfunctionalVet (Post 18095565)
4. Keep the jabs coming.

Bubba called and he wants his spray-cans back! :p :rofl:

EspoMan 05-02-2016 1:55 PM

Look great to me. Good work

curtru 05-02-2016 6:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DysfunctionalVet (Post 18097582)
I'm no longer mil spec according to the medical squadron and the only thing I can operate is a stapler and I have trouble with those.

Lol don't forget that nasty paper that crap hurts when you get cut.

Sent from my SM-T230NU using Tapatalk

Varg Vikernes 05-02-2016 6:11 PM

Do you have a blast cabinet? Cerakote isn't that expensive to start doing yourself.


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 9:01 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.9
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.