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Ishootforblood 12-30-2017 1:33 AM

A very accurate RWS 45 Project Gun
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I bought a couple of used air rifles from Member Bart1015. I really wanted his old Sheridan Blue Streak, and I really didn't want this RWS 45, stamped 06/84. Nonetheless, it was part of the deal. The first photo is the "before" shot of the RWS 45.

I opened the 45, and found it loaded down with grease. Current Diana Rifles are generally dry. I've never been inside a RWS 45 before. Maybe RWS or Diana actually lubed them back in the 80s, or a pervious owner lube tuned it? Who knows.

I found the RWS 45 was different than the Diana 34 and 350. There is a cocking shoe that rides in a slot of the piston, and there is a sleeve that fits inside piston, along with a washer. The cocking shoe fell out when I dragged the piston out of the compression tube. It took a few minutes to puzzle-out. More troubling was the second take down pin. The pin actually slips through a leaf type spring that operates the safety. That took more than a minute to sort out. The piston seal is leather, but it initially appeared to be rubber. I soaked for a few minutes it in RWS Silicon. After a detailed cleaning, I applied a bit of molly to the Compression tube, and a bit on the piston. That was followed with black tar on the main spring, etc. Basic stuff.

I mounted an old Leapers 4x AO scope on the 45, and fired a couple of 10.5 grain pellets. These are the heaviest pellets I have at the moment. I then fired several groups using CP 7.9 grain pellets. My initial groups were all over the paper. I know from experience that the piston seal acts like a tight fitting squeegee inside the compression tube, and any excess molly lube gets forced out the air port hole, and into the barrel. Sure enough, the barrel was coated in molly. After cleaning the barrel with a pull through set, the rifle began to shoot. And it shoots great. Sub half inch groups at 25 yards are ridiculously easy. I had several groups that were one ragged hole. I have several Diana 34 rifles with JM Tune kits, and this old RWS 45 shoots as good or better than any 34 I own.

The outside of the 45 barrel still looks pretty bad. I buffed it with steel wool and solvent, and then put a bit of cold blue on it. That was premature, and I should have sanded it properly. I have a can of Matte Black Aluma-Hyde, and I'm seriously considering painting the barrel. My reasoning is that I'll be putting my hand on the barrel every time I cock the rifle, and the paint will hold up better than the cold blue. Perhaps there is another option that I'm overlooking? Regardless, there is no collector value given the rust and pitting, and the sights are missing as well. I looked at the conversion kit that allows the use of a synthetic piston seal. It involves drilling out the riveted leather seal, and tapping the piston for the new seal attachment. It's suppose to add FPS to the rifle. But, I'm really please with the accuracy and I don't want to risk losing that accuracy.

To sum it up, I'm really pleased with this rifle. Thanks for reading my post, and any thoughts or suggestions on my barrel would be appreciated.

Rob112o 12-30-2017 10:37 AM

Nice, I was debating on picking that up as well. I was going in for the Dan as well, but saw the barrel issue. After, debating I decided I'll solder it back again. Wouldn't be the first time.
Get yourself a muzzle break. I got one of these on my R1:
This on my R7:
It will also cover where the front post grooves are.

Rob112o 12-30-2017 7:39 PM

Wooooow!! I would have bought that Dan if the post had a ad had a pic. If anything I would have taken the wood and put on a different Dan. Great pick up indeed.
Yes that intermount is fine. It's the earlier models that had the screws going directly into the joint you don't want to use. Either way the screws only need to be snug. I find so many mount and ring screws tightened beyond belief. If you don't like the idea of using them for a traditional scope set up. Try a scout set up, which is using a pistol scope and the set up is further out on the barrel.
To remove the valve to do your own solder you need to order The Tool from baker airgun:
Since the rifle is holding you won't need another reseal Kit. I believe Tim charges per clean time during a solder job. If you send him a cleaned and valve free rifle it will cost $25. If not I believe he still charges.

Rob112o 12-30-2017 7:44 PM

Oh, you can make your own tool to remove that bolt lug from the bolt. Go to your local hardware store and to the drawer aisle and get that these 3 pieces. The screw has a hex head meant for an Allen. Which will go over the bolt lug and you will be able to loosen. I got a nut and wing nut to give the tool a handle.

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