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Hammertime 05-13-2011 2:56 PM

Long Eye Relief scope for Mauser
Hi there, I've decided to embark on the LER scope quest for my Swedish Mauser, and was wondering what some of you have done (if at all) for older bolt action rifle that need LER's. I'm aware that LER's aren't as accurate as maybe getting a bent bolt rifle and putting a regular relief scope on. I'm in love with my rifle and want to hit at a distance.

Thank you.

tlivingd 05-13-2011 3:20 PM

the NcStar 2-7x32 Works very well on my Mosin. It's dirt cheap too.
Picked it up at

Wernher von Browning 05-13-2011 7:47 PM

Have you seen this page?

Lots of excellent info there.
I didn't like any of the store-bought scout scope mounts for the Mauser 98k, and that fellow just plain isn't making 98k mounts, so I had to make my own (I have machine tools at my disposal). Custom made, hand fitted, would not be viable as a commercial product. But it works and is rock-solid.

What I don't like about the commercial ones (like B Square) is that they use jackscrews to provide tension on the mount. My own solution doesn't, and doesn't leave divots.

For scope -- I bought something else, a brand called AIM Sports. Also 2-7x. They were at some point associated with NCstar, I don't know how, but are now separate. For all I know the products are identical, they sure look identical, but I bought an AIM, at a higher price, because I wanted to support my local Mauser guru who recommended this.

It works. So far. I don't have very high expectations in this price class. A scout scope by Leupold or Burris is out of my budget for what I want to do.

(Afterthought) You say "not as accurate." Why is that?
One possible source of inaccuracy is parallax. Higher-end scopes have a "range adjustment" on the front lens, to eliminate parallax; or center focusing. But most scopes do not and there is only one theoretical range where parallax will be zero.

What's parallax? Try clamping the scope in a vise and pointing at a distant telephone pole or wires or some such. Bob your head up and down and see if the crosshairs move against the target. If yes, you have parallax. This is just another way of saying the focal plane of the front lens is not falling on the plane of the crosshairs -- and it can only do that for one specific distance, pre-set by the factory. If you are "inside" focus, the image will move one way relative to the wires; "at" focus, no movement at all; and "outside" focus, move in the opposite direction. But... you can fix this by making a little spanner wrench that goes in the slots in the mount for the front lens, and slightly screw the entire front lens in or out (it doesn't take much -- a fraction of a turn) until the headbobbing results in no movement at that range. For targets at different ranges, it will be different again. For what I do, I have it set for 100 yards and end of story.

Yet another afterthought.
Plan on lapping the scope rings. Make sure you have the right eye relief as mounted (if not, you may need to buy a different model / diff. brand scope) but don't crank the scope down yet. Make sure the rings are at their final position. Crank the lower halves down tight. Then lap the lower halves as a unit, clamped tight, and plan on not loosening those anymore. Then lap the upper halves individually. To lap, you can buy expensive kits, but I just got a piece of 1" steel shaft material and some 500-grit valve lapping compound ("Clover" brand). Do this with the bar clamped in a vise, and the mount off the gun. You don't want that compound anywhere near, or in, your gun. Clean well afterwards. You will see your lapping progress as the (most likely black) finish gradually wears away. You don't need 100% engagement, but 90% is plenty.

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