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View Full Version : Super Short CAR style handguards.


NeoWeird
04-30-2008, 11:57 PM
I vaugely remember seeing a company a while ago who had super short CAR handguards. They were made so you could use military-esque handguards on a 7.5" barrel. I can't find them now and I am toying around with an idea in my head for .22 rifle upper that would look like an SBR. Anyone know which company makes them, and if they still are being made?

My googlefu is weak and apparently there are too many "AR" topics on Calguns to make searches practical. :rolleyes:

NeoWeird
05-01-2008, 3:49 PM
Well at least I'm not alone on this one....:)

Bowser
05-01-2008, 3:57 PM
http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/showthread.php?t=76550&page=3

?

NeoWeird
05-01-2008, 4:56 PM
http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/showthread.php?t=76550&page=3

?

No, it wasn't the 607 handguards. They were shortened CAR handguards; the slimmer cousin of the M4.

lazyworm
05-01-2008, 5:44 PM
kinda like these?

http://dpmsinc.com/store/?cat=1776
http://dpmsinc.com/firearms/image.aspx?id=34&type=small

NeoWeird
05-01-2008, 6:17 PM
No, those are railed tubes. I am looking for handguards that look just like CAR handguards but are shorter. Still can't find them with my googlefu. I'm starting to wonder if I shouldn't just buy some CAR handguards, cut the front retaining ring off, chop them to length, then epoxy the ring inside the handgaurds.

I came across these on arf. These are also homemade variant similar to what I described above, though I'm not sure how he did it (I think he epoxied the handguard cap in place with the grips together and took the removable gas block off to put them on). This is pretty much what I am looking for, but I can't find them and I know someone was producing them commercially.

http://i32.tinypic.com/6z7i8l.jpg
http://i30.tinypic.com/j5kneo.jpg

NeoWeird
05-01-2008, 9:59 PM
Still nothing.

I have the original CAR parts in my shopping cart at Brownells. I think if I can't find them by the end of tonight I will just order from Brownells and have myself some made scientist fun.

WhiteDingo
05-01-2008, 10:54 PM
Chop it up. It's more fun that way! I've not ever seen something like that available commercially, but hey, I haven't been looking.

NeoWeird
05-01-2008, 11:13 PM
Chop it up. It's more fun that way! I've not ever seen something like that available commercially, but hey, I haven't been looking.

If I remember right, the ones I saw that were commercial weren't from a bottom feeder per se; but weren't the top either. If I remember right, they were M4 profile but shorter. It looked like if you took M4 guards and smashed them against your head like they were a beer can. I thought they also had a CAR version, but now I can't find either.

Me thinks I am ordering them tonight. Shame too...I have so many other projects to deal with...

Jacob

aplinker
05-01-2008, 11:17 PM
http://www.ar15products.net/itm00439.htm

How about a cheap free float tube? $50 isn't bad. T&E to retro the plastic will cost you at least that...


Cheaper:

http://www.olyarms.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&page=shop.browse&category_id=43&Itemid=37

NeoWeird
05-01-2008, 11:41 PM
http://www.ar15products.net/itm00439.htm

How about a cheap free float tube? $50 isn't bad. T&E to retro the plastic will cost you at least that...


Cheaper:

http://www.olyarms.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&page=shop.browse&category_id=43&Itemid=37

The main problem with the Hogue, and copies, is that they just weigh so much. For a normal rifle round the recoil somewhat helps alleviate the weight as you fire, but this is going to be a build so I can use my Atchisson conversion; so I am aiming for light as possible while maintaining a particular look (somewhat retro somewhat modern - 'BHD retro' as someone on arf called it).

So railed fore ends are out. The Hogue would ALMOST work, but it's too heavy. The carbon fiber tubes are WAY too much money for this cheap build, and it seems like those handguards are not to be found anywhere. I just realized I didn't have enough money for my entire order so it's being postponed, so I might still find them, but I think modification is the only way to go.

Besides, I realized that I can cut off the front 2" or so, and then cut of a 1/4" section and a 1/2" section, then sandwhich the 1/4" piece between the rear portion and the 1/3" section and then epxoy them together and grind/file off any high contacting edges. The result should be a small underhang for the cap to catch on and sit relateively flush to the front of the handguards.

I think you're right though, I probably should order a second set of $13 handguards just to be on the safe side.

JPglee1
05-02-2008, 12:01 AM
Besides, I realized that I can cut off the front 2" or so, and then cut of a 1/4" section and a 1/2" section, then sandwhich the 1/4" piece between the rear portion and the 1/3" section and then epxoy them together and grind/file off any high contacting edges. The result should be a small underhang for the cap to catch on and sit relateively flush to the front of the handguards.
.

I have thought of doing something similar for a 7-9" pistol build I plan to do...

I plan to section the handguards and then use strips of sheetmetal and pop rivets in addition to either cyanoacrylate or epoxy bonding agent..... If you were to use (2) strips of sheetmetal and 4 rivets total it would greatly increase its strength with no loss of lightness....

If you use the right kind of rivets and you put a slight countersink into the plastic (use a drill bit) the rivets should sit real close to flush... I'd then go over the heads with black RTV silicone but thats just me.


J

NeoWeird
05-02-2008, 12:07 AM
I have thought of doing something similar for a 7-9" pistol build I plan to do...

I plan to section the handguards and then use strips of sheetmetal and pop rivets in addition to either cyanoacrylate or epoxy bonding agent..... If you were to use (2) strips of sheetmetal and 4 rivets total it would greatly increase its strength with no loss of lightness....

If you use the right kind of rivets and you put a slight countersink into the plastic (use a drill bit) the rivets should sit real close to flush... I'd then go over the heads with black RTV silicone but thats just me.


J

That's an interesting thought. The only problem I see is that the handguards are tapered, so you'd either end up with a nasty feeling seam or uneven handguards.

You know, I may have been thinking about this backwards. What about lopping off the rear portion of the handguards, cutting them to length, then filing/grinding down the rear seat until it's the same diameter as the rear of the new handguard's length. Then you could use an L bracket and a rivet or two and epoxy for good measure. Then you don't need to worry about making a new seat for the front handguard cap.