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View Full Version : Painting/coating knife (or anything)


williamcm
02-23-2014, 5:47 PM
I ordered a SOG Slim Jim (3inch) and the Ebay pic looked anodized, but it wasn't. No worries, still a great price for a great knife.

My question is if anyone has cheaply painted or duracoated anything similar using something easily found at Home Depot? I'd like to take the stainless shine away from it so it isn't such an eye catcher. I stress the word cheaply. I'm not about to spend too much to send it off for anodizing or whatever.

Thanks for any links or tips you can provide for what worked for you.

Blademan21
02-23-2014, 7:36 PM
Get it powder coated.

Explicit
02-24-2014, 2:07 AM
Cheapest thing you could do is try and give the blade a forced patina with mustard. I think SOG uses AUS8 stainless steel so I'm not sure how well it will patina. Next best thing would be to take some fine grit sand paper and give the blade a satin type finish.

williamcm
02-24-2014, 8:06 AM
That's why I love this place. I seriously never heard of mustard for putting on patina. Would anyone be opposed to me taping it off nicely and using the enamel type spray made for appliances? I used it on a bike once and it turned out nice. I may do the blade too and just sharpen through it, or is that stupid.

Whiterabbit
02-24-2014, 10:39 PM
high chrome content. not much else besides the carbon of course.

Will it react to cold blue? if so, you can rust blue it.

uxo2
02-25-2014, 2:11 PM
if its stainless..

http://bulk-share.slickpic.com/photo/share/wjOBwMGDDNwTjD/800/p/3088060.jpg

williamcm
02-26-2014, 8:36 AM
if its stainless..

http://bulk-share.slickpic.com/photo/share/wjOBwMGDDNwTjD/800/p/3088060.jpg

The handle is 420 and the blade is AUS-8. I think I'm going to try the cold blue, and if it doesn't look right, I'll use the controlled corrosion of the bluing to help get some Duracoat Aerosol Spray to stick better.

I'll post my results. Hopefully I can get the SOG stencil built in to the handle to transfer neatly to the blade.

Whiterabbit
02-26-2014, 8:44 AM
by the way.

I suggested cold blue as a CHECK, not a solution. Since you can buy cold blue for a couple bucks anywhere.

For a REAL coating, if the cold blue works, I suggest an express rust blue. A hotplate with a pan of boiling distilled water and 3 hours of your time from green to green and you'll make that thing look amazing.

IF it blues. There is a ton of chromium in AUS-8. But no much else in there. I wouldn't call it a proper stainless steel, but it has way too much Cr to call it alloy steel. I dunno. Thus the cold blue check.

If you were local I'd say come over and we can try it in the shop. I bought a lifetime supply of Mark Lee's express blue, I can blue every piece of steel in my shop as well as every gun I own and will ever own. If cold blue works, get you on brownells and buy the smallest bottle of Mark Lee they sell.

-------------

For the test, don't forget to degrease the holy heck out of your test area. acetone, brake cleaner, whatever. Get any and all oil off. if it blues, you can always remove that in prep to do a proper rust blue.

By the way, google around for the toughness of a rust blue vs hot blue or cold blue, see if that's not exactly what you want.

IF high Cr steel blues.

williamcm
02-26-2014, 8:54 AM
by the way.

I suggested cold blue as a CHECK, not a solution. Since you can buy cold blue for a couple bucks anywhere.

For a REAL coating, if the cold blue works, I suggest an express rust blue. A hotplate with a pan of boiling distilled water and 3 hours of your time from green to green and you'll make that thing look amazing.

IF it blues. There is a ton of chromium in AUS-8. But no much else in there. I wouldn't call it a proper stainless steel, but it has way too much Cr to call it alloy steel. I dunno. Thus the cold blue check.

If you were local I'd say come over and we can try it in the shop. I bought a lifetime supply of Mark Lee's express blue, I can blue every piece of steel in my shop as well as every gun I own and will ever own. If cold blue works, get you on brownells and buy the smallest bottle of Mark Lee they sell.

-------------

For the test, don't forget to degrease the holy heck out of your test area. acetone, brake cleaner, whatever. Get any and all oil off. if it blues, you can always remove that in prep to do a proper rust blue.

By the way, google around for the toughness of a rust blue vs hot blue or cold blue, see if that's not exactly what you want.

IF high Cr steel blues.

Excellent insight and advice. That is exactly what I was looking for, thank you.

Whiterabbit
02-26-2014, 8:57 AM
you might be lucky. AUS-8 is very close to 440 stainless which is close to 416 stainless.

The difference between these alloys and a 304 "standard" stainless is no Nickel. 304 has way more Cr, and WAY more Ni. The "proper" stainless.

Why does this matter?

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?163119-bluing-stainless-steel

Post #4. Apparently 416 blues. I'd still test with a cold blue (even a light rusting would tell me that a "real" blue process would be worth trying), but it's looking better.

uxo2
02-26-2014, 8:57 AM
I would cerakote it.

or hot vinagar

Whiterabbit
02-26-2014, 8:58 AM
Also, bluing is an acid. If you "check" or even blue, don't forget to wash the blade off with a baking soda solution. Or else after you wash and oil up you'll look at your knife the next day to find your test area red and rusty.

Ask me how I know.

Whiterabbit
02-26-2014, 9:26 AM
no. it's on the instruction page of mark lee's product.

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=8795

For the record (again), I don't know if mark Lee's product will do high Cr steel. Some products are marketed for stainless (oxpho 84?), but again you don't have stainless. Just like you don't have alloy steel. So I don't know what chemical you need. (more specifically, I don't know if you need regular blue or a stainless blue).

But written on the directions is "when you are done bluing, immerse in water saturated with baking soda. 1.5 lb of baking soda to 1 gal of water mix." To neutralize the acid. Who has time for that? I washed the barrel in water very well and rubbed in a baking soda slurry paste. Took special care where acid can leech, like the banded sight and near the barrel and action. Anyways, the intention is to neutralize any acids used. I also use this when stripping blue, since acids are again used.

I couldn't find any links to the express blue directions online.

Honestly, I'm sure a VERY GOOD flushing/rinsing followed by a water displacing oil would work, but neutralizing via baking soda is faster.

williamcm
02-26-2014, 1:35 PM
So I'm sure I will now be consumed by this as I have read some on exactly how anodizing and even frog lube type applications work.

Before I go hunting around for testimonials, Is there anything that some 6M or even 3M HCl(aq) could be useful on? Would it say "etch" a rough layer on so I can get better adhesion from a coating or penetration of blueing?

I think if possible, it could come in handy for numerous applications as I already have the chemicals. i may pose a method to the blade connoisseur forums.

Whiterabbit
02-26-2014, 1:39 PM
I use HCl to remove bluing, clean rust, and when mixed with H2O2, etch copper. Within reason, it leaves steel alone.

I dunno about stainless. This is mild steel.

williamcm
02-26-2014, 1:44 PM
What concentration do you use? 6 Molar is no joke, but I've only used it as intended for labs.

Whiterabbit
02-26-2014, 1:47 PM
Muriatic from home depot. I'm not making clean chemistry happen here, I'm trying to get an aesthetic finish. I don't need or want something so strong that I have to worry about Hydrogen Attack if I don't get the acid off within seconds.

williamcm
02-26-2014, 1:49 PM
True, thanks. I'm going to give this a read. Sorry to nerd things up.

file:///C:/Users/W/Downloads/CGNA17248ENC_001.pdf

Blademan21
02-27-2014, 9:03 AM
The handle is 420 and the blade is AUS-8. I think I'm going to try the cold blue, and if it doesn't look right, I'll use the controlled corrosion of the bluing to help get some Duracoat Aerosol Spray to stick better.

I'll post my results. Hopefully I can get the SOG stencil built in to the handle to transfer neatly to the blade.

As I recall,I think to Duracoat one has to blast with sand or oxide to make the surface porous. Also the acid from Radio Shack is great stuff for etching folded steel/Damascus.

ffjdh
02-28-2014, 7:39 AM
Mustard will work. Id submerge what ever you want darkened in hot vinegar if you want more of an even look. Both are very easy to do and practically free. If you don't like it you can sand it off with 400 grit and try something else

Whiterabbit
02-28-2014, 8:36 AM
using mustard is like fixing some chipped woodfinish by rubbing a walnut over it. Sure, it might get some finish back in the chip, but what you are REALLY doing is rubbing walnut oil in there. In that case, it is much better to get a proper finish (including a proper walnut oil woodfinish) and doing the job better.

Same with the mustard. Get the real chemical being used and do a good job, not a "bubba" job. If that means you want to use vinegar, knock yourself out. But don't be that guy who rubs walnuts on tables to fix the finish.

williamcm
03-01-2014, 8:35 AM
I've looked at the patinas and Not what I'm going for. I've already tweaked it so the assist and detent hold is perfect. I added some serrations to the blade where it curved back and was difficult to sharpen. Overall a fun project and thanks for the help! This payday I will order some bluing, but I want to add thin steel on the sides first so the screws sit recessed and don't catch when drawing from pocket.