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ExtremeX
11-18-2013, 1:54 PM
Can anyone comment on torque values that should be used for the below items?

B&C Medalist M40 & Stock Remington 700 BDL bottom metal
Action Screw Torque Value?

TPS Steel Base to Remington 700 Receiver Torque Value?

TPS Steel Rings (two halves) Torque Value when installing scope into rings?

TPS Steel Rings to TPS Steel Base Torque Value?

thegiff
11-18-2013, 2:08 PM
40-65 in-lb, depends if pillars installed
15-18 in-lb
15-18 in-lb, tighten the index side first and completely, then tighten other side leaving a gap.
65 in-lb

ExtremeX
11-18-2013, 2:12 PM
There are no pillars installed... my concern was with the cheap aluminum bottom metal... many say not to use the full 65 in/lb to help prevent damage to the bottom metal.

Also, do you loc-tite the scope base screws to the receiver?

Thanks for the heads up on the index marks... I saw that in the instructions as well.

winxp_man
11-18-2013, 2:18 PM
My setup.

Remington 700 SPS Varmint to Choate stock. 65 in/p using stock bottom metal. I also use BLUE loctite to the action screws and hand tighen both screws then tighten the front action screw first then the rear action screw next.

TPS (steel) base to action- 20 in/p with blue loctite (MAKE SURE ITS NOT RED LOCTITE)
TPS (steel) rings for scope 15 in/p also installed with bit of blue loctite
TPS (steel) rings to base 65 in/p

On some side notes. The make sure the scope base does not need bedding. Put the fron two screws in first and hand tighten them and look for major gaps at the rear. Then do the opposit put the rear in first and hand tighten them and check for gaps at the front. If no gaps are present no bedding of the scope base is needed. I then install all screw one by one with a little bit of blue loctite and hand tighten them. After which from the front to the back crank down to needed inch pounds NOT foot pounds.

thegiff
11-18-2013, 2:26 PM
Well, if no pillars then you can crush the stock, besides the bottom metal. 65in-lb on a 1/4-28 screw should give around 1100 lb clamping per screw.

45 in-lb is about 790lb per screw.

I prefer loctite. Make sure you use the removable kind.

TPS doesn't give torque values in their instructions, the torque range given works for most steel screws in aluminum or steel rings without stripping or screw failure, while preventing the scope from slipping. Note that if you fully clamp the side opposite the index marks so that there is no gap nearly certainly you will crush your scope.

Vu 308
11-18-2013, 2:41 PM
There are no pillars installed... my concern was with the cheap aluminum bottom metal... many say not to use the full 65 ft/lb to help prevent damage to the bottom metal.

Also, do you loc-tite the scope base screws to the receiver?

Thanks for the heads up on the index marks... I saw that in the instructions as well.


DO NOT USE FOOT POUNDS...everything on a gun except a barrel to the action is in INCH POUNDS....

ExtremeX
11-18-2013, 2:43 PM
DO NOT USE FOOT POUNDS...everything on a gun except a barrel to the action is in INCH POUNDS....

Ya that was a typo....

Corrected

winxp_man
11-18-2013, 2:55 PM
Well, if no pillars then you can crush the stock, besides the bottom metal. 65in-lb on a 1/4-28 screw should give around 1100 lb clamping per screw.

45 in-lb is about 790lb per screw.

I prefer loctite. Make sure you use the removable kind.

TPS doesn't give torque values in their instructions, the torque range given works for most steel screws in aluminum or steel rings without stripping or screw failure, while preventing the scope from slipping. Note that if you fully clamp the side opposite the index marks so that there is no gap nearly certainly you will crush your scope.



Just re-read the Ops statement and saw no pillars then yes 45 in/p will be the most you would want to go.

winxp_man
11-18-2013, 2:57 PM
There are no pillars installed... my concern was with the cheap aluminum bottom metal... many say not to use the full 65 in/lb to help prevent damage to the bottom metal.

Also, do you loc-tite the scope base screws to the receiver?

Thanks for the heads up on the index marks... I saw that in the instructions as well.

So the B&C does not have the aluminum bedding?

postal
11-18-2013, 2:58 PM
I use TPS base/rings.

I did need to use blue loktite on the ring base to rail. I first installed without it, and one of them backed out on me really quickly.

I dont use loktite on the ring cap screws.

winxp_man
11-18-2013, 3:02 PM
I dont use loktite on the ring cap screws.

I didnt do that on one the two setups and the screws loosened up a bit and had to fix it with loctite afterwards. Its not a bad thing to put a bit on the screws before tightening the caps.

ExtremeX
11-18-2013, 3:29 PM
So the B&C does not have the aluminum bedding?

It does have an aluminum bedding block, like shown in their stock photo... but no pillars like what it used in the factory Hogue stock.

http://www.stockysstocks.com/catalog/BC1000.jpg

ExtremeX
11-18-2013, 3:34 PM
I use TPS base/rings.

I did need to use blue loktite on the ring base to rail. I first installed without it, and one of them backed out on me really quickly.

I dont use loktite on the ring cap screws.

For the ring caps to ring base... I've never used loc-tite in the past, and never had issues... Larue mounts, PERP, DNZ, Warne rings... but almost everything I use in the past was aluminum not steel except the Warne rings.

I will use it on the base/rail to receiver... I don't see myself ever needing to remove that.

CK_32
11-18-2013, 3:55 PM
The books and what I've always gone by is:

60-65ip for rings to base
18-20ip for rings to rings
55-60ip for action to stock


What I have learned is blue lock tit rings both ring to ring and base to ring. Scope worked lose once. NEVER again. I don't lock tit the action. Never saw a need to as of yet.

winxp_man
11-18-2013, 3:57 PM
It does have an aluminum bedding block, like shown in their stock photo... but no pillars like what it used in the factory Hogue stock.

http://www.stockysstocks.com/catalog/BC1000.jpg

Well there is not need for pillars being its all aluminum bedding block. I have put together and taken apart quite a few rifles and always tighten the action screws to 60-65 in/p with no issues ever. Do what you feel is safe for you in the end. I'm just giving you the way I do it. I have done this with HS precision stocks and the newst one I got a choate stock.

The military on the M24's uses 65 in/p and they use the HS precision stocks with full aluminum bedding just like B&C or any other full aluminum bedding.

kentactic
11-18-2013, 4:57 PM
There are no pillars installed... my concern was with the cheap aluminum bottom metal... many say not to use the full 65 in/lb to help prevent damage to the bottom metal.

Also, do you loc-tite the scope base screws to the receiver?

Thanks for the heads up on the index marks... I saw that in the instructions as well.

Use blue loctite on the base screws. I would recommend coating the whole base underneath aswell to keep it from sliding and it helps seal out moisture too.

kentactic
11-18-2013, 6:18 PM
I didnt do that on one the two setups and the screws loosened up a bit and had to fix it with loctite afterwards. Its not a bad thing to put a bit on the screws before tightening the caps.

Most quality rings don't recommend you use loctite. Proper even torque keeps them tight just fine.

high_revs
02-10-2014, 8:59 PM
i know this thread is old but relevant (and my usual hope to build on a thread)...

i got badger ordnance steel base for my 5r. i used blue loctite. i had red but didn't want to use it (and to avoid having to heat it up in case i screw up). badger says use Red 271 or Green 620 loctite. of course, i read this "after" i installed it. (there was no instruction with the package but i tightened one at a time and incremental (10 in lbs and then 15 in lbs on a weaver torque screw driver). i did check for fit first and finger tighened (well not quite finger but using the provided wrench at very light pressure just to make sure the bolts actually thread in correctly). then removed and put some loctite. i checked on the rear bolts and made sure nothing fell thru the hole (and on the bolt but i kept it off for now anyway).

i didn't put loctite on the base per their recommendation to avoid water seepage. (i don't hunt.. yet... and don't plan on shooting in the rain).

do i need to re-do with red or green loctite. most threads i read said the base should hold by itself if torqued down correctly. (i didn't push forward though as i tightened down. it wasn't moving and i was worried it might strip the bolts ever so slightly by putting that pressure forward.

i don't quite understand in the other tutorial videos if the bases they got where cheap. they had light passing thru when put on top. or other tutorials had them pushing paper see how much thickness they had to bed. i know the surface is curved but it's no where close to what i saw in some of those videos (didn't save 'em since another 'smith told me he doesn't bed when he installs scope bases). even a piece of paper won't slide thru in the little area in the rear and front.

seemed like a very good fit unless i'm utterly missing something.