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Exodus343
09-23-2013, 9:02 PM
http://i1305.photobucket.com/albums/s541/chou_shawn/photo_zpseda0d9d5.jpg (http://s1305.photobucket.com/user/chou_shawn/media/photo_zpseda0d9d5.jpg.html)


Did a load development test with my friend today using his Sako TRG 42 in 338
first time behind this rifle and caliber and wow did that stock rock my hard

here are the groups I shot today, I think I did ok at 100 yards

I find myself always pulling the first shot or the last shot, any advice on how to be able to be consistent on all shots? and not have any flyers? :)


as in regards to my (I can't shoot 1/2 moa thread)
this rifle had a longer LOP and I had a much better cheek weld, so I need to change my stock and get back into that 308

NorCalFocus
09-23-2013, 9:09 PM
For length of pull a simple test is to put the butt of the rifle inside your elbow and reach up (point the rifle straight up to the ceiling) to the trigger. Where your hand lays is where you want your LOP.

Nice shooting!

Exodus343
09-23-2013, 9:10 PM
For length of pull a simple test is to put the butt of the rifle inside your elbow and reach up (point the rifle straight up to the ceiling) to the trigger. Where your hand lays is where you want your LOP.

Nice shooting!

Thank you
the LOP on my friend's TRG 42 was perfect
it is my R700 LTR that has a short LOP, and I can't adjust the stock :(

looking into chassis now
AICS, Mcree, Manners etc etc

brando
09-23-2013, 9:12 PM
A lot of people develop a subconscious flinch when shooting big magnums. It takes some time and a focus on the fundamentals to get rid of that, though a coach can help too. Based on your charge weights, I'm assuming you're shooting 300s?

Exodus343
09-23-2013, 9:17 PM
A lot of people develop a subconscious flinch when shooting big magnums. It takes some time and a focus on the fundamentals to get rid of that, though a coach can help too. Based on your charge weights, I'm assuming you're shooting 300s?

yeah 300 Sierras I think

Clever
09-23-2013, 9:24 PM
You did great today Exodus, a true natural..

NorCalFocus
09-23-2013, 9:28 PM
Thank you
the LOP on my friend's TRG 42 was perfect
it is my R700 LTR that has a short LOP, and I can't adjust the stock :(

looking into chassis now
AICS, Mcree, Manners etc etc

You can always add an inch or so to your stock as well. My dad has a stupid long LOP. He's added an inch to most of his guns. He uses hard plastic from Tap plastic. Takes them the butt pad, says I need this shape, this tall, adds longer screws.

The chassis is great, but that may get you by in the meanwhile.

Exodus343
09-23-2013, 9:30 PM
You can always add an inch or so to your stock as well. My dad has a stupid long LOP. He's added an inch to most of his guns. He uses hard plastic from Tap plastic. Takes them the butt pad, says I need this shape, this tall, adds longer screws.

The chassis is great, but that may get you by in the meanwhile.

my recoil pad was glued on LOL
no screws or anything

another friend of mine said to tap it and get a pachmeyer?

NorCalFocus
09-23-2013, 9:53 PM
http://www.pachmayr.com/home/spacers-adapters.php

Google is wonderful.

Clever
09-23-2013, 11:03 PM
Now to 300 yards. My TRG performed like always, a first timer to the 338 LM shot sub MOA with my work up loads. of course he did his part. I would recommend this rifle to anyone wanting a solid move up..

BigBamBoo
09-24-2013, 8:15 AM
Not sure what muzzle brake your buddy has on the TRG, but Near Mfg. makes a VERY good TRG brake. It works WAAAYYY better then the factory Sako brake. Just some food for thought.

Clever
09-24-2013, 8:41 AM
Not sure what muzzle brake your buddy has on the TRG, but Near Mfg. makes a VERY good TRG brake. It works WAAAYYY better then the factory Sako brake. Just some food for thought.

Hi I am the buddy. Thank You for the advise I really appreciate it. Do you shoot a TRG 42 338 LM? I have been behind this Rig since 2/2009. The Near just did not tame my rifle. It was a close run between factory and the Roedale muzzle brake. I settled for the factory as it stabilizes the massive 338LM with ease. Really liked the Roedale Brake as it is engineered well and controls the rifle. Accuracy wise the Near came in dead last, Roedale proved to be a high end hunting brake and the Factory shoots bug wholes at 300 yards. Felt Recoil is less than a 308 win. I have pushed this thing to its limit and it screams for more. Shines beyond 1200 yards but is extremely accurate at 100. I will not shoot anything else in a 338LM Platform and can keep up if not out shoot custom rigs..

1911su16b870
09-24-2013, 10:07 AM
Nice! I love that 90.0 grain target with the +/- 0.5 grains giving you similar accuracies.

BigBamBoo
09-24-2013, 11:02 AM
Hi I am the buddy. Thank You for the advise I really appreciate it. Do you shoot a TRG 42 338 LM? I have been behind this Rig since 2/2009. The Near just did not tame my rifle. It was a close run between factory and the Roedale muzzle brake. I settled for the factory as it stabilizes the massive 338LM with ease. Really liked the Roedale Brake as it is engineered well and controls the rifle. Accuracy wise the Near came in dead last, Roedale proved to be a high end hunting brake and the Factory shoots bug wholes at 300 yards. Felt Recoil is less than a 308 win. I have pushed this thing to its limit and it screams for more. Shines beyond 1200 yards but is extremely accurate at 100. I will not shoot anything else in a 338LM Platform and can keep up if not out shoot custom rigs..

That is very strange. I know when I ordered my Near brake he had two designs. The one I bought had the slanted ports...so it "pulled" the rifle away from you. It REALLY cut down the recoil over the factory brake.

I will try and find a picture of it and post it.

Found it:

http://img854.imageshack.us/img854/4634/qz6o.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/854/qz6o.jpg/)

.

Pete (Roedale Precision) makes good parts. I use his bottom metal kit on my Tikka .223 so I can run AI mags, plus some of his other Tikka parts.

Take care, Stan

LynnJr
09-24-2013, 9:19 PM
Why did you stop were you stopped? Pressure?

I don't know the freebore on your chamber without you posting the jam length but on my 338's I use more Retumbo.

I use 0.9 grain increments and the node is pretty wide on my rifles.How were the bullets seated as far as length? And relation to the lands jumping or jammed?

I have my shooter for the 308 like you have and when we are through testing I will post his results minus the load data so no one wets themselves.

Exodus343
09-24-2013, 9:23 PM
Why did you stop were you stopped? Pressure?

I don't know the freebore on your chamber without you posting the jam length but on my 338's I use more Retumbo.

I use 0.9 grain increments and the node is pretty wide on my rifles.How were the bullets seated as far as length? And relation to the lands jumping or jammed?

I have my shooter for the 308 like you have and when we are through testing I will post his results minus the load data so no one wets themselves.

no the range closed and we were getting kicked out :facepalm:

ar15barrels
09-25-2013, 12:39 AM
Did a load development test with my friend today using his Sako TRG 42 in 338

here are the groups I shot today, I think I did ok at 100 yards

Don't even waste your 300gr 338 bullets at 100yds.
They will most likely group better at 200yds when they fully settle down.

I have build some 300 magnums that will shoot 1/2" groups at 200yds and then shoot 3/4" groups at 100yds with the same loads.

Clever
09-25-2013, 2:18 AM
Why did you stop were you stopped? Pressure?

I don't know the freebore on your chamber without you posting the jam length but on my 338's I use more Retumbo.

I use 0.9 grain increments and the node is pretty wide on my rifles.How were the bullets seated as far as length? And relation to the lands jumping or jammed?

I have my shooter for the 308 like you have and when we are through testing I will post his results minus the load data so no one wets themselves.

Let me fill in the blanks as it was the first time EX shot a 338LM.
We ran out of time and could not finish the test
All loads developed were stabalized by shooting off of sand bags.
New Lapua Brass trimmed to 2.720 (Have up to 2.760)
300gr Sierra Match King
Federal 215
COL 3.740
Ogive to base 2.875
Seated .005 Jump (Ogive to base 2.870)
Powder Charges are posted in the pic above and in load process
No pressure signs
Redding Competition Dies

Now LynnJr; I know you are not calling me out with that .308 remark. Mind you it was his first time behind a Sako TRG 338 Lapua Magnum Shooting 300gr test loads (He did well).. Post all you want, I think my BOY will blow through your groups like a paper bag. One more Question: Why is another person shooting your proven loads. My loads are in testing stage. I can load some proven loads in my Rig with Lapua brass 2.720, Federal 215, 93.3gr of N165 under 250gr SMK COL 3.755 at the lands. Seated .010 Jammed COL 3.765 one hole groups at 300 yards sub MOA at 1K..

OR
250 SMK
Lapua Brass 2.720
95gr of H1000
COL 3.755 at the lands
Seated .005 jump COL 3.750
CCI#250 Primers
3000fps. Hurts feelings at 1400 yards

I could go on and let you pick the data and I will shoot it.. Or EX can..
No wetting needed as we are all proven marksmen. Right?

Exodus343
09-25-2013, 5:43 AM
I'm not... Still have MUCH to
Learn lol

Whiterabbit
09-26-2013, 7:54 AM
[I find myself always pulling the first shot or the last shot, any advice on how to be able to be consistent on all shots? and not have any flyers? :)

Mind over matter. If I do that, I end up yelling at myself. "Patience!" works most of the time. Take my time, take my shot. If not, well, I'm just not in it, mentally. Time to stop shooting for the day.

Clever
09-26-2013, 8:02 AM
Mind over matter. If I do that, I end up yelling at myself. "Patience!" works most of the time. Take my time, take my shot. If not, well, I'm just not in it, mentally. Time to stop shooting for the day.

What caliber do you shoot..

Whiterabbit
09-26-2013, 8:15 AM
If you are looking for the biggest, then 460S&W in pistol with a 740 grain cast lead bullet, 58 caliber in black powder, and, at the time, 338 lapua magnum in the lightest package Savage made, and I did not use the brake. (I fit a browning BOSS linear compensator to cut noise)

Personally, I find I only really rush when I am shooting the 58 cal in practice (I never seem to rush during a match?) and I get antsy ALL the time shooting the 460. I am just not a pistolero.

I'll assume you meant cartridge, not caliber :) I am building a 50 cal too, based on a necked up 460 weatherby. It's what will replace my 338 lapua. I don't need to shoot 1400 yards (and you guys shoot much farther than that I am sure!) like you guys do, 700-1000 is fine with me! :)

Anyways, it's just simple advice for a new shooter. I'm sure you guys have grip, breathing, heartbeat, trigger control and 1000 other things done 1000 times over. The mental state part is something I don't see harped on on the forums or on the firing line nearly as much as the standard stuff.

Clever
09-26-2013, 8:20 AM
Whiterabbit I did mean caliber. Just wanted to know. Maybe I can help you or you would be able to give me some info.

Whiterabbit
09-26-2013, 8:24 AM
Anyways, I'm just commiserating. I don't shoot for paper groups past 100 yards and make no wild claims of accuracy. But for those of us that play sand-bag-bench-rest at 100 yards at the local outdoor range, just trying to practice, get better, and shoot that one group that one time where all the holes are touching even better than a clover leaf, well, the focus on mental state I find helps.

Clever
09-26-2013, 8:40 AM
Anyways, I'm just commiserating. I don't shoot for paper groups past 100 yards and make no wild claims of accuracy. But for those of us that play sand-bag-bench-rest at 100 yards at the local outdoor range, just trying to practice, get better, and shoot that one group that one time where all the holes are touching even better than a clover leaf, well, the focus on mental state I find helps.

Ahh OK? Why in this manner.. I am a 3rd generation Rifleman/Hunter. From one whole groups on paper to single shot kills on wild pig.. What is the dificulty in achieving tight groups. been there done that from the age of 15. I'm 45 now... I can make claims and back it up..

LynnJr
09-26-2013, 12:57 PM
Clever
You are reading my post wrong.

In another post Ex was frustrated with his 100 yard groups from a 308 Remington 700 and I posted how he could swap out each piece of the equation and see what gave him the most bang for the buck.
Naturally as this is Calguns I caught tons of flack from the rabbit/car/freight train shooters posting here.
I then started a new thread looking for a noob and the noob would be shooting my 700 in 308 and we would make all the swaps and post those results.I could do it myself but that isn't the point we want a noob to show all the noob's here what can be done from a noob.
I made the mistake of including my extremely safe in that rifle hunting load and the sheep wet themselves and had someone delete the thread.

I would post my 338 Lapua loads for my heavy class gun but it wouldn't last long here.
I think he is on the light end of the node window and his groups will tighten up further as he keeps going.
Also Can you size a piece of brass leave the primer and powder out of it and place a 300 SMK on the neck.Lay this in the chamber and using some effort close the bolt.Measure the COAL and post it for me?
I only know my specs off of the full jam length.

Kilber
09-26-2013, 1:26 PM
I find myself always pulling the first shot or the last shot, any advice on how to be able to be consistent on all shots? and not have any flyers? :)



Breathing, cheek weld, trigger control, follow through. If you use a 2-stage trigger, then it is easier to anticipate the shots, which leads to fliers, bucking, pulling, etc. Take your shots at the end of your breathing cycle, after you have exhaled all of your air. When all of your air is out, that should be your natural point of aim. You do not want to hold your breath, however, there may be a brief pause in breathing once all of your air is exhaled. Use a slow steady trigger squeeze, and try not to anticipate the shot. The key is to be surprised by the hammer fall. For best results, try not to change your posistion between shots, keeping the butt of the rifle in the same spot in the pocket of your shoulder.

Clever
09-26-2013, 1:32 PM
Clever
You are reading my post wrong.

In another post Ex was frustrated with his 100 yard groups from a 308 Remington 700 and I posted how he could swap out each piece of the equation and see what gave him the most bang for the buck.
Naturally as this is Calguns I caught tons of flack from the rabbit/car/freight train shooters posting here.
I then started a new thread looking for a noob and the noob would be shooting my 700 in 308 and we would make all the swaps and post those results.I could do it myself but that isn't the point we want a noob to show all the noob's here what can be done from a noob.
I made the mistake of including my extremely safe in that rifle hunting load and the sheep wet themselves and had someone delete the thread.

I would post my 338 Lapua loads for my heavy class gun but it wouldn't last long here.
I think he is on the light end of the node window and his groups will tighten up further as he keeps going.
Also Can you size a piece of brass leave the primer and powder out of it and place a 300 SMK on the neck.Lay this in the chamber and using some effort close the bolt.Measure the COAL and post it for me?
I only know my specs off of the full jam length.
No problem and I realize now where you were going with your post.
338 Lapua Magnum 300SMK
Using the Hornady O.A.L Gauge I go constant 3.740 with 300SMK
Base to Ogive 2.875
COAL 2.760 I trim to 2.720

Here you go.. Hope It Helps
Good Luck

Clever
09-26-2013, 6:17 PM
Breathing, cheek weld, trigger control, follow through. If you use a 2-stage trigger, then it is easier to anticipate the shots, which leads to fliers, bucking, pulling, etc. Take your shots at the end of your breathing cycle, after you have exhaled all of your air. When all of your air is out, that should be your natural point of aim. You do not want to hold your breath, however, there may be a brief pause in breathing once all of your air is exhaled. Use a slow steady trigger squeeze, and try not to anticipate the shot. The key is to be surprised by the hammer fall. For best results, try not to change your posistion between shots, keeping the butt of the rifle in the same spot in the pocket of your shoulder.

Very well put, Procedure,Fundamentals,Discipline and trigger time.. Unbeatable Formula..