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joe blow
09-18-2013, 10:20 PM
I own two of these and placed one of the off serial numbered one in a Boyd's stock which I shoot. The other is a 1932 hex barrel with all matching serials. I do not want to refinish the stock but the cosmoline is bad. What have some of you done to keep the original finish and not disturb the authenticity of the rifle.... But yet keep it from feeling like you rubbed Vaseline over the stock?

Thanks
Joe

BroncoBob
09-18-2013, 10:57 PM
I'm told that brake cleaner cuts the crap out or cosmoline and is cheaper then other firearm cleaners. Give it a try with several rolls of paper towels. Then use some WD 40 and extra fine steel wool and only rub gently. This will help smooth out the stock without wrecking it.

Cadre
09-18-2013, 11:45 PM
Try diesel

joe blow
09-19-2013, 11:41 AM
Thanks for all the help

This particular rifle I will not shoot since I have another identical in a boyd's stock.

I will try and see what works best.

Thanks
Joe

mosinnagantm9130
09-19-2013, 1:07 PM
lol there is no need to refinish the stock to get cosmo out, that's straight up bad advice.

Put it in a couple of black trash bags, and leave it out in the sun on a hot day. Should do the trick!

joe blow
09-19-2013, 2:51 PM
lol there is no need to refinish the stock to get cosmo out, that's straight up bad advice.

Put it in a couple of black trash bags, and leave it out in the sun on a hot day. Should do the trick!

HAHA not a bad idea! That will certainly leach all the nasty stuff out of it for sure.

thenodnarb
09-19-2013, 4:57 PM
I work at a gun store and clean SKS's whenever we get them in. I use mineral spirits on the stock and metal parts. It cuts the cosmoline and cleans the surface real nice. It won't hurt the finish on the wood. It appears they used shellac on these old stocks instead of varnish. Shellac will break down when you introduce alcohol. Mineral Spirits won't hurt it. After the mineral spirits, I apply rem oil to the action and even the wood. It won't feel sticky and grimy any more.

FYI brake cleaner, at least the low VOC stuff, doesn't seem to work at ALL. Mineral Spirits works the best so far.
I can't speak to the oozing cosmo after it gets hot, but I can't imagine that could happen more than once or twice. Just bring a rag and more mineral spirits with you when you shoot. If it gets gross, wipe it down again. the wood can only hold so much. It doesn't penetrate completely.

Tom-ADC
09-19-2013, 5:42 PM
Mineral spirits and a cheap small paint brush.

joe blow
09-19-2013, 10:51 PM
I work at a gun store and clean SKS's whenever we get them in. I use mineral spirits on the stock and metal parts. It cuts the cosmoline and cleans the surface real nice. It won't hurt the finish on the wood. It appears they used shellac on these old stocks instead of varnish. Shellac will break down when you introduce alcohol. Mineral Spirits won't hurt it. After the mineral spirits, I apply rem oil to the action and even the wood. It won't feel sticky and grimy any more.

FYI brake cleaner, at least the low VOC stuff, doesn't seem to work at ALL. Mineral Spirits works the best so far.
I can't speak to the oozing cosmo after it gets hot, but I can't imagine that could happen more than once or twice. Just bring a rag and more mineral spirits with you when you shoot. If it gets gross, wipe it down again. the wood can only hold so much. It doesn't penetrate completely.

Thank you for the great advice. The rem oil you speak of....you talking regular gun oil? I use Hoppe's or is it a specific stuff youre talking about?


Thanks

shda5582
09-20-2013, 11:58 AM
I did a 2-step process that has worked flawlessly for me.

First, get some Tilex with NO bleach (should be a lemon scent and I believe you can find it at Walmart). This will remove the cosmo without marring the finish. Wipe it down, let it sit for a day or two using the trash bag method, and keep wiping down with the Tilex (but don't let it dry). This removes most of it.

Step 2: get a heat gun, and keeping it on the LOWEST setting, start moving it over only one small section at a time, heating to draw out the cosmoline that might be left. Be careful not to overheat the wood, as you risk damaging the fibers if they get too hot.

I did this on my stock and whatever the Tilex didn't take off, the heat gun removed the rest of (very little).

johnthomas
09-20-2013, 12:07 PM
Get a big bottle of the most friendly solvent you can use, rubbing alcohol.
A couple of rolls of paper towels and go to town.

joelberg
09-20-2013, 12:21 PM
Citrol works magic and won't melt your brain.

shda5582
09-23-2013, 3:10 PM
Get a big bottle of the most friendly solvent you can use, rubbing alcohol.
A couple of rolls of paper towels and go to town.

NO! Worst thing you can do on a MN stock is to use anything alcohol-based. Unless you want to remove the shellac finish, since shellac is alcohol soluble and you WILL remove the finish if you do this.

Of course, if you intend on removing the finish anyways, then go for it. :)

Varg Vikernes
09-23-2013, 3:47 PM
Plastic bag or just outside during a hot day will do the trick.

I did it in San Francisco on a ~80 degree day on a Garand stock.

ClassicalLib
09-29-2013, 4:35 PM
Hmm,

Pragmatically, I have found that the shellac is very fragile stuff. If you, for instance, lay the gun on top of a shell casing, the gun will scratch.

The best thing to do is to pick up a Mosin stock online and then refinish it. I used Minwax Sedona Red with some semi-gloss urethane. This way you can store the old stock and not worry about damaging it. Also, from my experience, even when one is gentle with it at the range, storage is usually where the most scratches come from.

As an aside, how well did the Boyd's stock fit? Mine was not inlet well at all and I had some serious fit issues... perhaps I sanded it too much and it actually started to crack inside.