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NRAhighpowershooter
01-08-2008, 3:09 PM
OK.. I get to do my pick up on my NDS-3 receiver this Thursday... I have done a lot of reparkerizing on my Garands and 03's and Carbines and such.. can these NDS-3 receiver be parkerized before assembly or does it need the trunion and rivets installed first? I plan on parkerizing the trunion and rear block stock mounts before installing them as I nicked then up a tad getting the rivets.

jumbopanda
01-08-2008, 3:20 PM
You can parkerize in any order than you want, but it is best to do the whole thing after final assembly to cover up any small scuffs that might have resulted from the build process.

submaniac
01-10-2008, 12:02 PM
Ummm...if it is an Nodakspud/DCI reciever...I think it is already parkerized. My DCI Yugo receiver already came Parkerized when I got it, so I think that it would be the same on yours as well (unless they only Park'd the Yugos....)

If it were me (and from my experience parkerizing) you can Park before and after. Meaning if you want to Parkerize each individual part (like trunions or receiver, etc.) you can do that BEFORE assembly. Once you get the entire receiver assembled (say you want to Parkerize the rivets) I would dunk the entire assembled receiver and Parkerize again. Any of the parts that were not parkerized will be Parkerized, and the areas already Parkerized will basically not be effected (they won't change color from what they already are).

As a specific example, when I did my Mauser receiver, I did not like how the front part of the receiver looked. I simply sanded and polished the front part of the receiver (leaving the rear portion--the part I liked) alone. When I put the thing in the Park tank the front matched the rear. In other words, they came out the same color.

Bladewurk
01-10-2008, 12:31 PM
NDS-3s are blasted from factory but not parked..wait till all test-firing and tweaks are done then finish...

NRAhighpowershooter
01-10-2008, 5:17 PM
ok... so .... where do I get the rivets? and the US made trigger parts? Also I assume that I should get the double hook set-up, correct (Tapco G2 kit? from AK-Builder.com??)? I'll go with a US made stock set from Ironwood.
oh... and when I get ready I'll gladly pay someone who might be close to me to help me with the rivets :D

Ford8N
01-10-2008, 5:35 PM
ok... so .... where do I get the rivets? and the US made trigger parts? Also I assume that I should get the double hook set-up, correct (Tapco G2 kit? from AK-Builder.com??)? I'll go with a US made stock set from Ironwood.
oh... and when I get ready I'll gladly pay someone who might be close to me to help me with the rivets :D

Jake has what you need.

http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/showthread.php?t=74101

oaklander
01-10-2008, 5:49 PM
If it's a Romy kit, the wood can be refinished to look really nice - no need to buy new wood. Get the rivets and G2 (double-hook) from ak-builder.com - he's got good rivets. I used some "bad" rivets once and they started to pull out - so get the good ones from AK-builder.

I assume you know the 922(r) parts that you need (6):

Most people do this:

1) receiver
2) hammer
3) trigger
4) sear
5) muzzle brake
6) U.S. pistol grip - or "no" pistol grip (i.e., MMG)

I would suggest the Wood AK grip, if MMG has any left - I have two of them - and I can't wait to stain them to match my wood!

ok... so .... where do I get the rivets? and the US made trigger parts? Also I assume that I should get the double hook set-up, correct (Tapco G2 kit? from AK-Builder.com??)? I'll go with a US made stock set from Ironwood.
oh... and when I get ready I'll gladly pay someone who might be close to me to help me with the rivets :D

daves100
01-10-2008, 7:18 PM
where do you get the NDS-3 receivers from? Also what is the price on them

NRAhighpowershooter
01-10-2008, 7:26 PM
where do you get the NDS-3 receivers from? Also what is the price on them

http://www.nodakspud.com/page2.htm

$55 shipped to your friendly FFL

M. Sage
01-10-2008, 7:46 PM
You do want that double-hook kit, but remember that you'll need to add another notch in the trigger hole of the receiver, and make sure that it fits the trigger.

If you ask me really nice, I might show you how to turn that cheap G2 trigger (trigger pull = one stage - nothing but creep) into a more useful two-stage trigger. :D

NRAhighpowershooter
01-10-2008, 7:52 PM
If you ask me really nice, I might show you how to turn that cheap G2 trigger (trigger pull = one stage - nothing but creep) into a more useful two-stage trigger. :D

Pretty, pretty PLEASE with a cherry on top???? :D

M. Sage
01-10-2008, 8:27 PM
Hint: Disassemble an M1 and look closely at the trigger, see how a two-stage is done there. Then compare the M1 trigger to an AK trigger.

Break out the Dremel. And put a spacer on the disconnector spring.

I figured it out after looking at how a Garand NM trigger worked. AK trigger is almost identical, though you'll never get it to work as nice.

Ford8N
01-10-2008, 8:48 PM
Hint: Disassemble an M1 and look closely at the trigger, see how a two-stage is done there. Then compare the M1 trigger to an AK trigger.

Break out the Dremel. And put a spacer on the disconnector spring.

I figured it out after looking at how a Garand NM trigger worked. AK trigger is almost identical, though you'll never get it to work as nice.

:useless:


I've always wanted to to this.:p

cartman
01-10-2008, 9:45 PM
If it's a Romy kit, the wood can be refinished to look really nice - no need to buy new wood. Get the rivets and G2 (double-hook) from ak-builder.com - he's got good rivets. I used some "bad" rivets once and they started to pull out - so get the good ones from AK-builder.

I assume you know the 922(r) parts that you need (6):

Most people do this:

1) receiver
2) hammer
3) trigger
4) sear
5) muzzle brake
6) U.S. pistol grip - or "no" pistol grip (i.e., MMG)

I would suggest the Wood AK grip, if MMG has any left - I have two of them - and I can't wait to stain them to match my wood!

If my build follows the same 6 us parts you list can i use a imported mag? Also what does a 2 stage trigger do?

M. Sage
01-10-2008, 11:13 PM
:useless:


I've always wanted to to this.:p

Alright... I'll get off my butt this weekend and take some pics. It's not much to look at, though, so I'll have to put commentary along with it.

Basically, you remove the "nose" of the disconnect so that it swings farther forward. You'll have to get it so that it barely touches the hammer before the trigger breaks. Then you'll have to take some material off the hammer shelf for the disconnect, so that the disconnect will let go of it. :p. Then, you cut the nose off a .22 LR bullet, and put it in the hole in the disconnect for the spring, so the spring has more tension...

At least, that's what I did.

It ain't much, but it at least lets me know about where the break is going to happen. Much better than it was before I spent all that time grinding on the trigger (on the kitchen counter :D )

FEDUPWBS
01-11-2008, 8:01 AM
Still waiting;)


Alright... I'll get off my butt this weekend and take some pics. It's not much to look at, though, so I'll have to put commentary along with it.

Basically, you remove the "nose" of the disconnect so that it swings farther forward. You'll have to get it so that it barely touches the hammer before the trigger breaks. Then you'll have to take some material off the hammer shelf for the disconnect, so that the disconnect will let go of it. :p. Then, you cut the nose off a .22 LR bullet, and put it in the hole in the disconnect for the spring, so the spring has more tension...

At least, that's what I did.

It ain't much, but it at least lets me know about where the break is going to happen. Much better than it was before I spent all that time grinding on the trigger (on the kitchen counter :D )

Builder
01-11-2008, 11:34 AM
If you ask me really nice, I might show you how to turn that cheap G2 trigger (trigger pull = one stage - nothing but creep) into a more useful two-stage trigger. :DOr the G2 FCG could be modified to be similar to the PSL trigger. The PSL trigger has a ridge or bump on the very end of the hammer shelf and the end of the trigger hook. These 2 bumps interfer just enough to create a step that needs to be over come by a little extra pressure - a pseudo second stage.
Thanks,
Builder

NRAhighpowershooter
01-11-2008, 12:33 PM
Hint: Disassemble an M1 and look closely at the trigger, see how a two-stage is done there. Then compare the M1 trigger to an AK trigger.

Break out the Dremel. And put a spacer on the disconnector spring.

I figured it out after looking at how a Garand NM trigger worked. AK trigger is almost identical, though you'll never get it to work as nice.


Don;t need to tear one of my Garands down.. I have a dozen or so trigger groups lying around here :D

M. Sage
01-12-2008, 12:27 AM
Or the G2 FCG could be modified to be similar to the PSL trigger. The PSL trigger has a ridge or bump on the very end of the hammer shelf and the end of the trigger hook. These 2 bumps interfer just enough to create a step that needs to be over come by a little extra pressure - a pseudo second stage.
Thanks,
Builder

That's not really a pseudo second stage, unless the NM trigger in my Garand has a fake second stage, too...

Geez, guys. I said I'd get pics this weekend. I'm a busy man! :TFH:

TonyM
01-12-2008, 11:30 AM
That's not really a pseudo second stage, unless the NM trigger in my Garand has a fake second stage, too...

Geez, guys. I said I'd get pics this weekend. I'm a busy man! :TFH:

Slacker.

We won't let up until we get what we want!

Builder
01-12-2008, 11:28 PM
That's not really a pseudo second stage, unless the NM trigger in my Garand has a fake second stage, too...You mean that the Garand has a ridge along the edge of the hammer and trigger interfaces? Wow.
Thanks,
Builder