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phonso302
10-10-2013, 5:07 PM
:) thanks

umd
10-10-2013, 5:36 PM
Got a zombie, now I just need pink.

LETLEAD
10-10-2013, 7:31 PM
Thank you very much. :)

ainako
10-10-2013, 8:48 PM
If we muck up these things trying to complete them. Are they covered under warranty? Not counting the "blemished" ones of course

EPLOWERS
10-11-2013, 4:50 AM
No; They need to be completed correctly; If so there is a lifetime warranty. If it breaks under normal conditions; send it back for a free replacement.

John

PrepperThyAngus
10-11-2013, 8:53 AM
Just picked up a black blem, look forward to my build!

nick
10-11-2013, 11:02 AM
i take it, the coupon code "calguns" doesn't work with blems?

Rock6.3
10-11-2013, 11:06 AM
i take it, the coupon code "calguns" doesn't work with blems?

correct

ainako
10-12-2013, 12:04 PM
dremel bit #561 works wonders if anyone is wondering. I tried a #562 bit, and a 1/4" 4 flute endmill. The #561 has the least tendency to jump and walk YMMV. just thought I'd share. Very eager for the ar10 lower, any word if they will be armalite or DPMS?

nick
10-13-2013, 1:39 PM
Still no word on the clear ones?

EPLOWERS
10-14-2013, 7:37 PM
The material used for the clears is different; the shrink rate is greater requiring changes in our mold specifically for clears. This is cost ineffective right now. However we are still planning on releasing clears in the future as well as 80% AR10 lowers. The AR10 mold is being made right now.

John

inbox485
10-15-2013, 3:09 PM
Just wanted to give a quick but big thanks to Chris and John. I ordered and received my EPL in less than 48 hours. Maybe not a big deal to some, but I live in Michigan.

Anyway, it's a desert sand blem and the quality of the part exceeds my expectations. The blem in this case is the rear take down pin hole location. It is not concentric with the recess around it and not centered with the upper when that is pinned on the front take down hole. The detent passage/spring hole from the rear is centered in the off location take down hole. So, I'm guessing both will need to be filled and re-drilled.

Anyone have a different suggestion? I could enlarge the recess (RH side) around the take down pin so it's head will fit and enlarge the pin hole in my upper so the pin would pass through (guessing 0.030-0.040" would do it), but don't know if that will eventually make the upper loose to this lower or another lower with the hole in the proper location.

I really am just looking for ideas here. What I listed is not a gripe at all. I purchased a blem knowingly and would not hesitate to purchase from EPL again (and most likely will). Just wish they included one of their decals for the side of mag well... :)

Funny. That is exactly what my non-blem looks like. Still waiting to see how ep will handle it.

Rock6.3
10-15-2013, 3:38 PM
I have a cosmetic blem with incorrect takedown pin location too....

inbox485
10-15-2013, 3:44 PM
I have a cosmetic blem with incorrect takedown pin location too....

Apparently having holes in the wrong place is cosmetic to EP according to other threads. Thing is, mine was not sold as a cosmetic blem. Unless they just pulled from the wrong pile, some QC evaluation might be in order.

EPLOWERS
10-17-2013, 7:06 AM
BTT

FireArms101
10-17-2013, 12:06 PM
I know it's probably mentioned somewhere on this thread but I just can't located on my phone. Can someone confirm whether or not EP lowers are made in the USA and if they are not what country are they from? I own many product and goods made outside of United States but I prefer to buy USA made if it's an option.

umd
10-17-2013, 12:26 PM
I know it's probably mentioned somewhere on this thread but I just can't located on my phone. Can someone confirm whether or not EP lowers are made in the USA and if they are not what country are they from? I own many product and goods made outside of United States but I prefer to buy USA made if it's an option.

They are made in Bakersfield. I've been there, it's definitely another country :D

EPLOWERS
10-17-2013, 12:39 PM
Apparently having holes in the wrong place is cosmetic to EP according to other threads. Thing is, mine was not sold as a cosmetic blem. Unless they just pulled from the wrong pile, some QC evaluation might be in order.

If you are having problems with the take down pin holes you can return it for the warranty since it is a non-blem lower. We do not offer any warranty on blemished lowers. Keep in mind not all lowers and uppers fit exactly the same; some will be tight. If the holes seem too small you can also thread a 1/4" bit through by hand for a better fit.

John

Rock6.3
10-17-2013, 12:45 PM
If you are having problems with the take down pin holes you can return it for the warranty since it is a non-blem lower. We do not offer any warranty on blemished lowers. Keep in mind not all lowers and uppers fit exactly the same; some will be tight. If the holes seem too small you can also thread a 1/4" bit through by hand for a better fit.

John

John, your advert for the blems said these were cosmetic blems only. Now that people are finding the takedown holes in the wrong spot you are going to claim no warranty?

inbox485
10-17-2013, 1:07 PM
If you are having problems with the take down pin holes you can return it for the warranty since it is a non-blem lower. We do not offer any warranty on blemished lowers. Keep in mind not all lowers and uppers fit exactly the same; some will be tight. If the holes seem too small you can also thread a 1/4" bit through by hand for a better fit.

John

Shipping lowers with holes so far out of spec that the pin head can't even clear the relief, calling them blemished cosmetically only, then saying no warranty is below the belt, but that is a separate discussion for which there are other threads.

I returned the lower per a separate email on the agreement that I would be refunded the return shipping costs following your inspection.

umd
10-17-2013, 1:16 PM
Shipping lowers with holes so far out of spec that the pin head can't even clear the relief, calling them blemished cosmetically only, then saying no warranty is below the belt, but that is a separate discussion for which there are other threads.

I had a blem where the relief obstructed the takedown pin head, but the hole was otherwise in the right location. I just shaved it off a little with a knife until it cleared. Everything else was fine.

inbox485
10-17-2013, 1:18 PM
I had a blem where the relief obstructed the takedown pin head, but the hole was otherwise in the right location. I just shaved it off a little with a knife until it cleared. Everything else was fine.

Some of the others that were posted were far enough off that even if you trimmed out the relief, the lower and upper would have a massive gap. I wouldn't shoot an AR in that condition.

ChrisBrooklyn
10-17-2013, 1:23 PM
Just waiting for one of these so called "cosmetic" blems to blow up and hurt someone. Disgusting business practice to ship out of spec lowers and call it cosmetic. Even worse to then deny warranty claims.

umd
10-17-2013, 1:34 PM
Some of the others that were posted were far enough off that even if you trimmed out the relief, the lower and upper would have a massive gap. I wouldn't shoot an AR in that condition.

I can only speak to my own experience.

PrepperThyAngus
10-17-2013, 1:45 PM
Anyone who buys a $35 lower, knowing it is a manufacturer blemish, then complaints its not to "spec" needs to sell it and buy an already 100% receiver.

These blemish units should only be handled by people experienced in mechanical machining. So what if one or two holes are not in exact location, that is the risk you take when buying a blemished unit. It can be repaired and reworked. I would not expect the manufacturer to honor a warranty on a known blemished unit.

Rock6.3
10-17-2013, 1:53 PM
Anyone who buys a $35 lower, knowing it is a manufacturer blemish, then complaints its not to "spec" needs to sell it and buy an already 100% receiver.

These blemish units should only be handled by people experienced in mechanical machining. So what if one or two holes are not in exact location, that is the risk you take when buying a blemished unit. It can be repaired and reworked. I would not expect the manufacturer to honor a warranty on a known blemished unit.

These were advertised as being cosmetic blemishes and possibly missing/broken off drill points for the trigger group pins, no impact on functionality. Cosmetic to me means color variations, scratches, surface imperfections. Stuff that can be fixed with a bit of file/sandpaper/repaint.

If they were advertised as having takedown pin holes in the incorrect location that would be an entirely different matter.

FireArms101
10-17-2013, 4:33 PM
Why arent they marked "made in the USA"? Can EP Lowers please confirm that these are made in the good old USA?

They are made in Bakersfield. I've been there, it's definitely another country :D

onefortheroad
10-17-2013, 7:07 PM
Eta and price on the ar-10?

umd
10-17-2013, 7:16 PM
Why arent they marked "made in the USA"? Can EP Lowers please confirm that these are made in the good old USA?

There aren't really ever any markings on 80% receivers except sometimes the safe/fire. The finished receiver becomes made wherever you make it. The website says "Made in the U.S.A.", not sure what else you're looking for.

EPLOWERS
10-17-2013, 7:42 PM
Why arent they marked "made in the USA"? Can EP Lowers please confirm that these are made in the good old USA?

Sort of; they are manufactured right here in California. :p In all seriousness; yes they are made in the U.S.A.

John

EPLOWERS
10-17-2013, 7:44 PM
Eta and price on the ar-10?

Mold is being made right now. No specific eta

John

EPLOWERS
10-17-2013, 7:45 PM
Tomorrow we will be having a large blem sale getting rid of the last of the no warranty products in stock. We expect to have all colors available for this massive blowout.

Sale starts at 12 Noon PACIFIC TIME TOMORROW on 10-18-2013.

www.eplowers.com

inbox485
10-18-2013, 10:06 AM
Just waiting for one of these so called "cosmetic" blems to blow up and hurt someone. Disgusting business practice to ship out of spec lowers and call it cosmetic. Even worse to then deny warranty claims.

Blowing up and hurting is a stretch. Anybody messing with those should have some idea how to fill and re-drill a hole that is slightly off so I don't want to be too harsh on them. The issue is the misrepresentation in advertising something as just "blemished" that actually needs significant rework. Maybe that wasn't the intent, but it isn't good business IMO.

FireArms101
10-18-2013, 10:12 AM
Thanks for the quick response. I purchased a blemished lower and was wondering what exactly are "blemishes" according to your company? Can you provide or create a list?

Sort of; they are manufactured right here in California. :p In all seriousness; yes they are made in the U.S.A.

John

EPLOWERS
10-18-2013, 3:55 PM
The vast majority of purchasers of our blemished units are very happy with the product. Again we can't warranty blemished units. There will be no blemished lowers offered after this sale. After what is in stock is gone it is gone. Our manufacturing quality control is at that point now. Please bare with us; we where the first and we are a new company doing something very new. And keep in mind you can always choose to purchase our product with a lifetime warranty.

John

EPLOWERS
10-19-2013, 5:57 AM
BTT

EPLOWERS
10-20-2013, 1:20 PM
BTT

EPLOWERS
10-21-2013, 8:01 PM
BTT

Nate74
10-22-2013, 2:22 PM
Apparently having holes in the wrong place is cosmetic to EP according to other threads. Thing is, mine was not sold as a cosmetic blem. Unless they just pulled from the wrong pile, some QC evaluation might be in order.

I actually just talked to Chris about the same problem and he's having me ship mine back. I'd call him. Very cool guy and looks like he's gonna make it right with me.

inbox485
10-22-2013, 2:43 PM
I don't like the sound of this at all. I have the same issue and feel like my first attempt at resolution received a good old fashioned 'blow off' from these folks. Still hoping they'll do what's right since I paid full price but hope is fading...

They called yesterday saying that my return fit fine on their lowers. They dodged my questions about why the relief was off center with the hole (which means that a standard pin won't fit without shaving the lower, but apparently they are all that way. We'll see when I get my replacement. So far, I'm not real impressed. Just looks like a half baked design.

rm1911
10-23-2013, 5:19 PM
They called yesterday saying that my return fit fine on their lowers. They dodged my questions about why the relief was off center with the hole (which means that a standard pin won't fit without shaving the lower, but apparently they are all that way. We'll see when I get my replacement. So far, I'm not real impressed. Just looks like a half baked design.

So far I've bought 4 at full price, two black for me and two zombie green for my son. 11y/o boys!! Go figure. I haven't yet milled them. Kinda waiting until I can fund the parts and do a complete build. Plus it'll be my first build from scratch and certainly my first 80%.

So maybe after I do that I might have more to say. But look, $100 isn't bad at all for something that can be milled without a ton of equipment and machining expertise. And I like the lifetime warranty. And I'm sure polymer lowers will hold up fine. I've got one aluminum lower as well.

Guys are getting all excited over blems and EP isn't making any claims about them other than they're blems and as is. All that for $30. So you're getting exactly what you ordered and paid for. Seriously, just pay the $70 extra if it's that big a deal. Considering what you're gonna spend anyways it's hardly anything.

Consider a blem a crap shoot, a roll of the dice. Maybe you get lucky. Maybe not. Whatever.

umd
10-23-2013, 5:43 PM
You can test fit the upper to the lower without any machining since the takedown area is already open. Just take the BCG out of the upper first. All of my lowers but one fit fine. Maybe a tiny gap but whatever.

DRM6000
10-23-2013, 6:39 PM
I test fit the five blems I have and they all fit fine. I couldn't tell you about gaps and aesthetics because they're not important to me. My rifles get used, dirty, scratched, banged around, etc.

inbox485
10-23-2013, 6:39 PM
So far I've bought 4 at full price, two black for me and two zombie green for my son. 11y/o boys!! Go figure. I haven't yet milled them. Kinda waiting until I can fund the parts and do a complete build. Plus it'll be my first build from scratch and certainly my first 80%.

So maybe after I do that I might have more to say. But look, $100 isn't bad at all for something that can be milled without a ton of equipment and machining expertise. And I like the lifetime warranty. And I'm sure polymer lowers will hold up fine. I've got one aluminum lower as well.

Guys are getting all excited over blems and EP isn't making any claims about them other than they're blems and as is. All that for $30. So you're getting exactly what you ordered and paid for. Seriously, just pay the $70 extra if it's that big a deal. Considering what you're gonna spend anyways it's hardly anything.

Consider a blem a crap shoot, a roll of the dice. Maybe you get lucky. Maybe not. Whatever.

Reading fail...

I paid full price.

hardcore4sure
10-23-2013, 7:09 PM
Are rough spots and discoloration normal for regular production (not blems) pieces?

Nate74
10-24-2013, 8:48 AM
So far I've bought 4 at full price, two black for me and two zombie green for my son. 11y/o boys!! Go figure. I haven't yet milled them. Kinda waiting until I can fund the parts and do a complete build. Plus it'll be my first build from scratch and certainly my first 80%.

So maybe after I do that I might have more to say. But look, $100 isn't bad at all for something that can be milled without a ton of equipment and machining expertise. And I like the lifetime warranty. And I'm sure polymer lowers will hold up fine. I've got one aluminum lower as well.

Guys are getting all excited over blems and EP isn't making any claims about them other than they're blems and as is. All that for $30. So you're getting exactly what you ordered and paid for. Seriously, just pay the $70 extra if it's that big a deal. Considering what you're gonna spend anyways it's hardly anything.

Consider a blem a crap shoot, a roll of the dice. Maybe you get lucky. Maybe not. Whatever.

A "blemish" implies a cosmetic issue. But a lower that doesn't allow a take down pin to fit properly is quite another issue as it would seem to indicate a poor design.

I test fit the five blems I have and they all fit fine. I couldn't tell you about gaps and aesthetics because they're not important to me. My rifles get used, dirty, scratched, banged around, etc.

The gap could turn out to be far more than aesthetic if it means a poor shooting rifle or it means FOD ends up inside your rifle...

Are rough spots and discoloration normal for regular production (not blems) pieces?

Seems to be what most have found on the non-blems...

hardcore4sure
10-24-2013, 11:22 AM
Tried fitting some parts on, take down pin holes are off centered. Going to have to do a little work to get them to fit. Hopefully it doesn't effect alignment of anything else.

inbox485
10-24-2013, 1:07 PM
They called yesterday saying that my return fit fine on their lowers. They dodged my questions about why the relief was off center with the hole (which means that a standard pin won't fit without shaving the lower, but apparently they are all that way. We'll see when I get my replacement. So far, I'm not real impressed. Just looks like a half baked design.

Got my replacement back. Exact same issues. When I spoke with the person that called (sorry, I don't recall his name), he agreed to send a replacement with only one side of the rear hole drilled out so that I could fit it to an upper myself. The replacement was drilled through both sides. So, either the arrangement was disregarded or forgotten, or somebody will be getting a lower drilled only on one side. So add less than stellar follow through to the feedback.

I'll give it a shot, and if it works out how I think it will, it will be fine, but will likely involve filling and re-drilling both holes, and shaving off part of the rear take-down pin. Not the end of the world, but not a product I'd suggest for build parties either. So far the only real thing they have going vs Polymer80 or JMT is casting in colors other than black.

inbox485
10-24-2013, 2:18 PM
Tried fitting some parts on, take down pin holes are off centered. Going to have to do a little work to get them to fit. Hopefully it doesn't effect alignment of anything else.

Take the bolt out of your upper, and you can test fit them without doing any milling or drilling.

EPLOWERS
10-24-2013, 8:29 PM
ZnpvCUnq88w

hardcore4sure
10-24-2013, 11:05 PM
Take the bolt out of your upper, and you can test fit them without doing any milling or drilling.

I only took my parts kit out to see if the rear take down pin would go all the way though, it couldn't because the hole is off center and the pin makes contact . Not a huge deal but they should probably address it sooner than later. Some people are way more picky about that type of stuff.

EPLOWERS
10-26-2013, 3:47 PM
7A9zh1v4BJo

ohlone
10-26-2013, 9:29 PM
which jig kits will work for this ep lower? i noticed the TM jig doesn't fit... thanks

inbox485
10-28-2013, 10:13 AM
Got my replacement back. Exact same issues. When I spoke with the person that called (sorry, I don't recall his name), he agreed to send a replacement with only one side of the rear hole drilled out so that I could fit it to an upper myself. The replacement was drilled through both sides. So, either the arrangement was disregarded or forgotten, or somebody will be getting a lower drilled only on one side. So add less than stellar follow through to the feedback.

I'll give it a shot, and if it works out how I think it will, it will be fine, but will likely involve filling and re-drilling both holes, and shaving off part of the rear take-down pin. Not the end of the world, but not a product I'd suggest for build parties either. So far the only real thing they have going vs Polymer80 or JMT is casting in colors other than black.

I finished the lower over the weekend, and I have to say selling this as a blem would be insulting. Selling it as a non blem is just ridiculous.

I paid full price. I paid for the return of the first rather pathetic defect. I was promised to be credited for the return shipping but never was.

I was promised that if they clearly didn't know where the rear detent holes belonged they would send one side undrilled so I'd only have to fill and drill one side, which they didn't.

Their idea of warranty is sending out a replacement as bad or worse, and you get to pay return shipping each time you want to see if you get an in spec lower.

In addition to the rear holes being pathetically off (and not even lined up with each other this time), all of the detent holes and the grip screw hole had to be opened up, the safety selector holes weren't lined up with each other, and the interior is full of air pockets so there are voids everywhere, and the finish of the exterior is uneven and looks like crap.

I was trying to give this product a fair go, but frankly it just sucks. It is inferior to its competition in almost every category. I have my doubts that the blems were anything different from the full price units (IE, it was just a "sale" to get rid of the crap and not have a warranty for everything being out of spec, not just blemished), and if they were anything worse that what I got, that is pretty scary.

Order #1154 in case anybody is doubting. I wish EPL was half as good at making lowers as they are at making videos, but they aren't.

I bought and built a James Madison Tactical lower, and built it as well. Flawless. No fit issues. The holes on the jig were actually lined up with each other. Detent holes are sized right. The grip screw hole is threaded and reinforced. I also have a pair of polymer 80 lowers on order that I'm waiting on. Both seem like better options for everything except maybe base color selection.

EPLOWERS
10-31-2013, 8:35 PM
Well there have been many who have purchased our product and are more than satisfied. However there is no denying there have been quality control issues; that is the reason for so many blems. We manufacture in the USA and right here in California but it hasn't been without challenges for sure. As I stated in PM; a warranty is a warranty and we will make it right one way or another. If anyone has purchased our warrantied product and is not satisfied; please feel free to call us at 661-241-0028

Jack_Bauer
10-31-2013, 11:16 PM
which jig kits will work for this ep lower? i noticed the TM jig doesn't fit... thanks

I'm interested to know this as well. I bought several blems and borrowing or even buying a side plate to help with the hammer, trigger, and selector holes will go much faster.

pakk
11-01-2013, 6:36 AM
I've had no issues with my blems and have been very happy with a perfectly functioning $35 lower.

rm1911
11-01-2013, 9:09 PM
Build issue

So far it went well. Got the innards milled out with the dremel and holes drilled. Pins fit and line up. Cool

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/02/nyguseda.jpg

Problem
Bolt catch plunger sticks. Hole is too tight.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/02/6u8udumu.jpg

I even sanded the plunger with 220 grit paper. The plunger fit no problem in a forged stripped lower I have. So it's not the plunger.

I'm hoping there's an easy fix. I think it's a 3/32 hole. Maybe lightly redrill. But problem is that top of the hole is pretty thin already. I did try to roll small piece if sandpaper and smooth hole out. Didn't work.

I guess I should check the other ones I have but I gather this might be same for all.

pakk
11-01-2013, 9:40 PM
Does the plunger move in and out of the hole freely? If it does, maybe the hole is too deep for some reason. Try stretching the spring or placing something in the hole putting more spring pressure on the plunger.

Also make sure the catch moves freely on the roll pin. I've had a catch bind on the roll pin. I hit the catch with a drill very lightly and it free'd up.

rm1911
11-02-2013, 8:07 AM
Does the plunger move in and out of the hole freely? If it does, maybe the hole is too deep for some reason. Try stretching the spring or placing something in the hole putting more spring pressure on the plunger.

Also make sure the catch moves freely on the roll pin. I've had a catch bind on the roll pin. I hit the catch with a drill very lightly and it free'd up.

No. It stuck. Also has some problems getting the bolt catch pin in the pin hole.

I ended up putting the lpk in another lower and will get another lpk for this one and work on it. The lpk was a cmmg kit. Maybe try another brand??

inbox485
11-02-2013, 12:39 PM
Build issue

So far it went well. Got the innards milled out with the dremel and holes drilled. Pins fit and line up. Cool

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/02/nyguseda.jpg

Problem
Bolt catch plunger sticks. Hole is too tight.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/02/6u8udumu.jpg

I even sanded the plunger with 220 grit paper. The plunger fit no problem in a forged stripped lower I have. So it's not the plunger.

I'm hoping there's an easy fix. I think it's a 3/32 hole. Maybe lightly redrill. But problem is that top of the hole is pretty thin already. I did try to roll small piece if sandpaper and smooth hole out. Didn't work.

I guess I should check the other ones I have but I gather this might be same for all.

On mine I had to relieve the hole until the spring could drop in and fall out, and shave the lower radius a bit so it wouldn't bind at the bottom. Use a fresh xacto blade for the radius, and for opening the hole start with the first drill bit that won't fall into the hole and go from there. Don't add any depth to the hole though.

rm1911
11-02-2013, 12:52 PM
Thanks. I'll probably play with this one a bit. In all honesty I bought 4 figuring I'd probably f one up and learn along the way. I don't think this is a major problem and should be an easy fix. It did turn out relatively easy to mill out.

inbox485
11-02-2013, 12:56 PM
Thanks. I'll probably play with this one a bit. In all honesty I bought 4 figuring I'd probably f one up and learn along the way. I don't think this is a major problem and should be an easy fix. It did turn out relatively easy to mill out.

If it is making you nervous, you can do the drilling with a bit in a pair of vice grips. You are just shaving so it isn't going to take a lot of force. Just don't use anything dull (bit or razor), and take slivers at a time and you'll be fine.

rm1911
11-02-2013, 10:06 PM
If it is making you nervous, you can do the drilling with a bit in a pair of vice grips. You are just shaving so it isn't going to take a lot of force. Just don't use anything dull (bit or razor), and take slivers at a time and you'll be fine.

That was sort of my plan. Just slowly turn in a bit. Just not sure the bit size. I believe if to be 3/32. I could be wrong.

inbox485
11-02-2013, 11:18 PM
That was sort of my plan. Just slowly turn in a bit. Just not sure the bit size. I believe if to be 3/32. I could be wrong.

lol... I hope not. It should be 5/32. I would start with the smallest that will fit which will likely be either 1/8 or 9/64 and go from there.

rm1911
11-03-2013, 10:29 AM
lol... I hope not. It should be 5/32. I would start with the smallest that will fit which will likely be either 1/8 or 9/64 and go from there.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/04/muse6yte.jpg

Are you sure? 5/32 is the hammer pin hole on the right. That small hole looks like it's supposed to be smaller.

Here's a blueprint
http://www.biggerhammer.net/ar15/cad/ar15_receiver.pdf

I don't know how to read these. However here's the bolt catch plunger hole
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/04/upunaqeq.jpg

And the trigger pin hole
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/04/ezyva9ed.jpg

They are different sizes. Whatever those measurements mean.

Either way the plunger hole should be smaller than the hammer pin hole. I wish I knew what those measurements mean.

rm1911
11-03-2013, 10:35 AM
Hmmm...

http://www.cncguns.com/downloads/AR15/Setup%20Block%20Drill%20Guide.PDF

According to this chart it is 5/32.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/04/pesuge4e.jpg

I'll turn it slowly. Like I said I figure I'm gonna f one up and get three good ones :):)

inbox485
11-03-2013, 12:00 PM
Most drawings are in decimal inches. 5/32=0.156". The depth is more critical than the diameter though.

CJSdrftFlat
11-03-2013, 5:27 PM
have same problems as inbox 485. Bought 4 "cosmetic" blems . The rear takedown pin holes are crooked and the bolt catch slot/ hole is too tight. I also had to open up the detent pin holes wider. I think cosmetic blems should be cosmetic and in no way affect the function. But what I was sold were 4 functional blems.

indobos72
11-03-2013, 5:46 PM
Is the reason nothing is in stock due to all the issues? Was trying to order and nothing is available. Will the next run be spec or an upgraded version of the original?

gsc3zny
11-03-2013, 7:45 PM
Here are pictures of my lower after drilling and Dremeling out the FCG. The drill hole for the fire selector is off from one side to another. It was drilled using 3 different drill bits, stepping up from 3/32 to 3/8. It was drilled with a cordless drill with a level built in. Has anyone else noticed this, or am I stuck with this as my practice unit?

EPLOWERS
11-04-2013, 8:21 AM
Here are pictures of my lower after drilling and Dremeling out the FCG. The drill hole for the fire selector is off from one side to another. It was drilled using 3 different drill bits, stepping up from 3/32 to 3/8. It was drilled with a cordless drill with a level built in. Has anyone else noticed this, or am I stuck with this as my practice unit?

One option is to epoxy and re-drill. Remember don't drill from one side to the other. Drill each side separate.

John

RookieShooter
11-04-2013, 8:27 AM
Tomorrow we will be having a large blem sale getting rid of the last of the no warranty products in stock.

Just a heads-up to all the potential buyers that these "blem" products are not cosmetic blemished but out of spec. Lot of things that are out of spec with these "blem" lowers ranging from the rear holes are off center and the alignment of front and rear holes are too far apart.

I can't believe they call these out of spec as a blemished product.

rm1911
11-04-2013, 2:23 PM
One option is to epoxy and re-drill. Remember don't drill from one side to the other. Drill each side separate.

John

what epoxy do you recommend? also, how do you recommend doing that? for example, should be just fill up the bottom in like a pool and mill out the epoxy, or does epoxy not mill well?

I think on the one I did the trigger pin holes are slightly off.

on another note, I get that we all want 80%'s to be like perfect machines and everything and that all we need to do is just mill it out, drill a few holes, and viola'. but I don't think that's reality. I personally am not going to weep if I hose one. for 100 bucks it's a learning experience...and...I honestly figure I'll get a 50% success rate. sucks? nah, just reality. I'm more concerned about durability and longevity.

I can always go out and get another forged 100% stripped lower from wherever. they're plentiful and not that expensive. I also figure that next year I'll still be able to get 80%'s mailed to my door.

EPLOWERS
11-05-2013, 7:38 PM
https://scontent-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/1000614_693137864037939_1211155576_n.jpg

ChrisBrooklyn
11-06-2013, 3:23 AM
One option is to epoxy and re-drill. Remember don't drill from one side to the other. Drill each side separate.

John

One option is to sell products that aren't defective under false "blem" pretenses.

LETLEAD
11-06-2013, 4:13 AM
I have notice alot of video's on YouTube of people drilling out their lowers. They don't have problems. I suggest many of you record your drilling and post it. Video footage speaks great truth that can not be denied. Thanks.

EPLOWERS
11-06-2013, 9:53 AM
One option is to sell products that aren't defective under false "blem" pretenses.

Well I would not agree that we have sold anything defective under false pretenses. I think I have addressed the issue already and it has been discussed quite enough. Our blemished lowers are just that; blemished. You can all chose to buy them with the understanding that they aren't perfect; knowing that they may require some fitting and work; upon doing so; please don't then be upset that they require that work. If they didn't they would not be blemished; and you would not be buying them at a great discount. With that said there are many who are very happy even with our blemished units.

Also you are welcome to start your own thread if you just want to complain.

John

EPLOWERS
11-06-2013, 10:01 AM
Is the reason nothing is in stock due to all the issues? Was trying to order and nothing is available. Will the next run be spec or an upgraded version of the original?

We have lowers in stock now. We where over and had to catch up with orders. Thanks.

John

LETLEAD
11-07-2013, 5:53 PM
We celebrate EPLOWERS !!!! Thank you for a great product.

EPLOWERS
11-09-2013, 3:53 PM
BTT

manny
11-09-2013, 8:17 PM
finally finished a regular one, not the blems, and the trigger/hammer dropped in and fire perfectly. But when the safety selector is dropped in it locks the works up and the trigger/hammer will not fire. Any ideas? I'd hate to run this one safety-less, 'cause at the moment thats about all I can think about doing.

EPLOWERS
11-11-2013, 7:44 AM
Check the safety selector to see whats holding it back after selecting fire. It is hard to say without being able to see it.

John

manny
11-11-2013, 9:15 AM
nothing to see here trolls...

manny
11-11-2013, 10:32 AM
nothing to see here trolls...

Grumpyoldretiredcop
11-12-2013, 10:37 PM
Milled my blem lower this evening. Having a TM jig and mini-mill on hand, I used them after making minor mods to the TM jig side plates to accommodate the EP lower. Total time was about 90 minutes, including time spent in modifying the TM jig side plates. Some observations:

The EP lower, being flexible, allows the jig side plates to bow in at the bottom when clamped in a vise. Be alert for the jig moving upwards during operations.

The EP lower doesn't fit centered in the TM jig or the TM FCG pocket milling plate doesn't align with the centerline of the EP lower. Either way, your FCG pocket will be off center if you use a TM jig. Centering the pocket would require sacrificing the TM top plate as the port would have to be milled wider. I didn't bother; the pocket sides are visibly different in thickness but mating it to an upper, it appears that the hammer aligns well enough with the firing pin for it to function.

All of the drill indicators on this blem lower appeared to be in the center of the TM jig's drill guides. After drilling, I had no problem getting the FC parts to align and the pins inserted. As a note, I drilled them one drill size smaller and hand reamed them to finish size. The fire control system passes function tests without issue. I will probably add KNS anti-rotation pins due to the thinness of one side of the FCG pocket to prevent the pins from working their way out during firing.

This was an interesting experiment for me; having done several aluminum 80%s, I thought it would be easier to do a plastic one. Milling went quicker and cleaner than aluminum, but the lack of properly fitting support blocks and the use of the TM jigs proved to be a less than ideal solution. It would be a valuable improvement if EP Lowers were to be able to offer a set of polymer vise blocks to fit this lower. Not a jig, just a pair of blocks that could be placed around the lower before clamping it in a vise. I'd be willing to pay extra for such a feature.

http://i619.photobucket.com/albums/tt279/grumpyoldretiredcop/AR%20Pistol%20Project/EPLowers80percentmilled_zps18022298.jpg

inbox485
11-13-2013, 8:48 AM
----

morepoop4u
11-13-2013, 10:57 AM
I just used a stealth arms jig from ebay to mill it out. This was a Blem model for me to practice on before I mill the 7075 80%.

http://imageshack.us/a/img96/8295/gjpb.jpg

http://imageshack.us/a/img15/7117/j6fb.jpg

http://imageshack.us/a/img21/369/5zz4.jpg

http://imageshack.us/a/img811/3082/87s3.jpg

OuTLaw123
11-13-2013, 11:22 AM
Did you use a drill press?

morepoop4u
11-13-2013, 11:39 AM
yup http://imageshack.us/a/img59/9615/35fe.jpg used it like a router. Here it is with my dpms 22 upper http://imageshack.us/a/img69/8738/1akw.jpg

LETLEAD
11-13-2013, 4:00 PM
Nice work of art.:notworthy::notworthy::notworthy:

EPLOWERS
11-13-2013, 7:08 PM
Nice build!

John

EPLOWERS
11-18-2013, 4:28 PM
BTT

ROAD_DOG
11-20-2013, 2:27 PM
I just used a stealth arms jig from ebay to mill it out. This was a Blem model for me to practice on before I mill the 7075 80%.

http://imageshack.us/a/img96/8295/gjpb.jpg

http://imageshack.us/a/img15/7117/j6fb.jpg

http://imageshack.us/a/img21/369/5zz4.jpg

http://imageshack.us/a/img811/3082/87s3.jpg

I was thinking of getting a jig like a 80% arms to use for drilling the holes for the hammer trigger and selector but now that you posted this I'm leanig towards this jig. So how well did it work out and do you got a pic showing how the jig is held on to the lower

EPLOWERS
11-20-2013, 3:51 PM
https://scontent-b-lax.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc1/994968_546402795443658_1610550548_n.jpg

morepoop4u
11-20-2013, 6:40 PM
I was thinking of getting a jig like a 80% arms to use for drilling the holes for the hammer trigger and selector but now that you posted this I'm leanig towards this jig. So how well did it work out and do you got a pic showing how the jig is held on to the lower

worked great but you need to you need drill the pins on the other plate.

http://imageshack.us/a/img708/3470/hkgz.jpg

ROAD_DOG
11-21-2013, 12:15 AM
worked great but you need to you need drill the pins on the other plate.

http://imageshack.us/a/img708/3470/hkgz.jpg

Lets see if I'm following you correctly from what I see on the eBay pic the other side plate does not have the holes for drilling the hammer trigger and selector holes I should drill out these holes correct.... So how can I go about doing that to make sure the holes will be we're they are suppose to be

reka_aks
11-21-2013, 2:46 PM
did the "calguns" coupon expired ?

ROAD_DOG
11-21-2013, 6:20 PM
did the "calguns" coupon expired ?

From what I understand once you apply the coupon code it doesn't automatically apply it you have to select it when you choose shipping method in a drop down menu but I think it my still be valid

morepoop4u
11-21-2013, 6:40 PM
Lets see if I'm following you correctly from what I see on the eBay pic the other side plate does not have the holes for drilling the hammer trigger and selector holes I should drill out these holes correct.... So how can I go about doing that to make sure the holes will be we're they are suppose to be

yup, drill the second plate then it will fit over the polymer guides on the lower.

ROAD_DOG
11-21-2013, 6:55 PM
yup, drill the second plate then it will fit over the polymer guides on the lower.

Ok but how did you drill the plate did you sandwich the plates together clamped them down and then drill or did you do it differently

OuTLaw123
11-21-2013, 7:27 PM
Couldn't you have sanded or cut down the guides?

Sent from my HTCONE using Tapatalk

EPLOWERS
11-24-2013, 9:29 PM
www.eparmory.com

Sinisternm
11-27-2013, 5:23 AM
http://youtu.be/WuBweKGN8yohere's a build video i made, i kinda messed up on the selector switch drilling but everything else was so easy.





(just in case that link fails http://youtu.be/WuBweKGN8yo )

EPLOWERS
11-29-2013, 10:00 AM
Remember folks to check out our Black Rifle Friday Sale! www.eparmory.com

BlackCatRacing#13
12-01-2013, 2:52 PM
My Question to You Guys at EP-Lowers

Is the Calguns Code do anything when put & added to cart ??
Yes I could See it was Noted that it was added to My Cart but Gave $0 given as Discount ,, just Asking:D



Edit ,,, Ok I See it ,, It give FREE Shipping for adding Cal-Guns Code

Edit #2 ,,, I ended up using Code PILGRIM for a Great Savings ,,, Thanks You Guys








:D

EPLOWERS
12-06-2013, 7:45 PM
https://scontent-a-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/1460313_552911014792836_1329891227_n.jpg

inbox485
12-07-2013, 2:59 PM
----

gsc3zny
12-07-2013, 7:17 PM
Milled my blem lower this evening. Having a TM jig and mini-mill on hand, I used them after making minor mods to the TM jig side plates to accommodate the EP lower. Total time was about 90 minutes, including time spent in modifying the TM jig side plates. Some observations:

The EP lower, being flexible, allows the jig side plates to bow in at the bottom when clamped in a vise. Be alert for the jig moving upwards during operations.

The EP lower doesn't fit centered in the TM jig or the TM FCG pocket milling plate doesn't align with the centerline of the EP lower. Either way, your FCG pocket will be off center if you use a TM jig. Centering the pocket would require sacrificing the TM top plate as the port would have to be milled wider. I didn't bother; the pocket sides are visibly different in thickness but mating it to an upper, it appears that the hammer aligns well enough with the firing pin for it to function.

All of the drill indicators on this blem lower appeared to be in the center of the TM jig's drill guides. After drilling, I had no problem getting the FC parts to align and the pins inserted. As a note, I drilled them one drill size smaller and hand reamed them to finish size. The fire control system passes function tests without issue. I will probably add KNS anti-rotation pins due to the thinness of one side of the FCG pocket to prevent the pins from working their way out during firing.

This was an interesting experiment for me; having done several aluminum 80%s, I thought it would be easier to do a plastic one. Milling went quicker and cleaner than aluminum, but the lack of properly fitting support blocks and the use of the TM jigs proved to be a less than ideal solution. It would be a valuable improvement if EP Lowers were to be able to offer a set of polymer vise blocks to fit this lower. Not a jig, just a pair of blocks that could be placed around the lower before clamping it in a vise. I'd be willing to pay extra for such a feature.

http://i619.photobucket.com/albums/tt279/grumpyoldretiredcop/AR%20Pistol%20Project/EPLowers80percentmilled_zps18022298.jpg
What mini mill did you use? One of the desktop ones for a couple hundred bucks? And did it work on the aluminum?

EPLOWERS
12-08-2013, 5:25 PM
BTT

SkyMag68
12-09-2013, 8:00 AM
I am little disappointed with E P arms shipping service.Order was placed on 11/29 and my items scheduled for delivery 12/9.

ciscollector
12-09-2013, 8:43 AM
I ordered mine the same day and received them at the end of last week. I'm sure they got slammed with the special they were running. I hope they run as good a deal soon because I will definitely get more.

SkyMag68
12-09-2013, 9:10 AM
Was scheduled to be deliver on 12/7.It was Postal Service fault .

EPLOWERS
12-11-2013, 6:17 PM
BTT

alouie008
12-13-2013, 11:23 PM
Is the calgun code still active?

EPLOWERS
12-14-2013, 7:15 PM
Yes it is. It is for free shipping.

Psychbiker
12-15-2013, 8:20 AM
I just used a stealth arms jig from ebay to mill it out. This was a Blem model for me to practice on before I mill the 7075 80%.

http://imageshack.us/a/img96/8295/gjpb.jpg

http://imageshack.us/a/img15/7117/j6fb.jpg

http://imageshack.us/a/img21/369/5zz4.jpg

http://imageshack.us/a/img811/3082/87s3.jpg

If those screws were countersunk, one could use a router with an end mill and bushing to ride along the face of the plate. Bushing look like this or a router bit with bearing attached.


http://nhwoodworker.com/of1010/guidebush3.jpg

Hoooper
12-17-2013, 4:36 PM
Wow I'm really disappointed with mine, surprised more people aren't having issues. First turn of the buffer tube cross threaded the plastic and there was no recovery from there. Basically cross threaded by osmosis since I wasn't even pushing it at all just lightly spinning trying to catch the threads. I work with bolts in hard to reach places on pretty much a daily basis, I'm used to avoiding cross threading bolts and stripping threads but the way this worked out I don't think I could have done any better. Not my first build by any means but definitely my last with an ep lower. If I can trade it in for $200 at a gun buyback I'll be happy

inbox485
12-17-2013, 4:57 PM
Wow I'm really disappointed with mine, surprised more people aren't having issues. First turn of the buffer tube cross threaded the plastic and there was no recovery from there. Basically cross threaded by osmosis since I wasn't even pushing it at all just lightly spinning trying to catch the threads. I work with bolts in hard to reach places on pretty much a daily basis, I'm used to avoiding cross threading bolts and stripping threads but the way this worked out I don't think I could have done any better. Not my first build by any means but definitely my last with an ep lower. If I can trade it in for $200 at a gun buyback I'll be happy

That happened once out the three (it was the most recent replacement). I was able to shave the threads and press them back into shape and get it threaded. And yeah, dumping these at a buy back had crossed my mind.

Hoooper
12-17-2013, 5:06 PM
That happened once out the three (it was the most recent replacement). I was able to shave the threads and press them back into shape and get it threaded. And yeah, dumping these at a buy back had crossed my mind.

If it was just the threads I might fix it, but too many other issues to go with it for me to care. Pivot and takedown pin Detent holes are too tight to work properly, safety hole was off center causing the safety to bind (I discussed this earlier in the thread about the locations being off from one side to the other even though I used a drill press and multiple bits smaller to larger when drilling). Any of those issues independently wouldn't necessarily be a turn off but all together would make me hate using it.

sdblu
12-28-2013, 6:14 PM
Got to do a little work on my projects today and ran into a minor problem.
The rear take down hole was not drilled center so when placing the pin the lip catches the edge and doesn't fit flush against the lower. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/12/29/ujebataq.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/12/29/yjada4aq.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/12/29/esehygyz.jpg
I thought this was a problem because it was a blem, however I noticed the "regular" lower has the same issue. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/12/29/y5etadyp.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/12/29/emejabaz.jpg
I ended up grinding ( a bit too much) of the lip of the pin to make it fit. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/12/29/y9ymu4aj.jpg
This week I plan borrowing my buddy's CMMG upper to check fitment. I have to say I'm a bit nervous.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

Grumpyoldretiredcop
12-29-2013, 6:35 PM
What mini mill did you use? One of the desktop ones for a couple hundred bucks? And did it work on the aluminum?

I have a Grizzly G8689, bought used, Grizzly sells them for $704 shipped, you can probably find them cheaper. It works perfectly well on aluminum 80%s, you just have to remember the machine's limitations and take small cuts.

BTW, I did a second EP lower with the TM jigs, this time not using the top plate and just clamping the side plates at the top to prevent the vise from squeezing them together at the bottom. Worked perfectly, FCG pocket was centered, parts installed fine except for having to open the rear takedown pin head pocket. There was a gap between upper and lower when assembled, but nothing worse than I've encountered with a DSArms lower/upper. It'll make a good .22 pistol, I think. There were several small voids in the FCG pocket and the takedown pin detent holes needed to be reamed to size, no big deal there either.

EPLOWERS
12-31-2013, 7:22 AM
Got to do a little work on my projects today and ran into a minor problem.
The rear take down hole was not drilled center so when placing the pin the lip catches the edge and doesn't fit flush against the lower. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/12/29/ujebataq.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/12/29/yjada4aq.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/12/29/esehygyz.jpg
I thought this was a problem because it was a blem, however I noticed the "regular" lower has the same issue. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/12/29/y5etadyp.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/12/29/emejabaz.jpg
I ended up grinding ( a bit too much) of the lip of the pin to make it fit. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/12/29/y9ymu4aj.jpg
This week I plan borrowing my buddy's CMMG upper to check fitment. I have to say I'm a bit nervous.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

Next time take your dremel 115 bit or equal and put it in some vise grips and just manually give it a few turns on the wall of the recess to remove a little material. It doesn't take much to get the pin to fit. There is no need to grind the pin.

EPLOWERS
12-31-2013, 7:39 AM
If it was just the threads I might fix it, but too many other issues to go with it for me to care. Pivot and takedown pin Detent holes are too tight to work properly, safety hole was off center causing the safety to bind (I discussed this earlier in the thread about the locations being off from one side to the other even though I used a drill press and multiple bits smaller to larger when drilling). Any of those issues independently wouldn't necessarily be a turn off but all together would make me hate using it.

Did you drill from one side to the other or just one side at a time? It is recommended you drill one side at a time. The buffer tube threads tight but you can't crank it down if its misaligned. You have to back it out and start slow. Keep checking it in profile for alignment. I also do not recommend using multiple bits other than a small bit for a pilot hole and the correct size bits. Use a 1/16 bit to drill pilot holes through the raised dimples then cut the pins off. That will give you a flat surface with pilot hole locations. You can then follow up with sized bits. You may want to use a pilot point or brad point for you selector switch hole.

sdblu
12-31-2013, 5:46 PM
Next time take your dremel 115 bit or equal and put it in some vise grips and just manually give it a few turns on the wall of the recess to remove a little material. It doesn't take much to get the pin to fit. There is no need to grind the pin.


I'll give that a try. I was afraid to cut on the outside of the lower and pins are cheap.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk (http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1)

EPLOWERS
01-01-2014, 4:17 PM
https://scontent-a-sjc.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/1549555_586647704722070_2015690808_n.jpg

Hoooper
01-01-2014, 9:24 PM
Did you drill from one side to the other or just one side at a time? It is recommended you drill one side at a time. The buffer tube threads tight but you can't crank it down if its misaligned. You have to back it out and start slow. Keep checking it in profile for alignment. I also do not recommend using multiple bits other than a small bit for a pilot hole and the correct size bits. Use a 1/16 bit to drill pilot holes through the raised dimples then cut the pins off. That will give you a flat surface with pilot hole locations. You can then follow up with sized bits. You may want to use a pilot point or brad point for you selector switch hole.

I did everything you suggest here, start small (multiple bits meaning one small and one full size), drill one side at a time, etc. The lower was just not marked in the correct location. I work with bolts all the time, I have a lot of experience threading hard to work bolts in tough locations, the threads were no good, I tried for a long time, using as little pressure as possible but to no avail, there's no doubt in my mind there was an issue with the threads before starting.

Paul
01-02-2014, 9:10 PM
Got to do a little work on my projects today and ran into a minor problem.
The rear take down hole was not drilled center so when placing the pin the lip catches the edge and doesn't fit flush against the lower.

I had the same problem - the fix was made with a 3/8" end mill carving out the built-up area around the poorly cut hole just a tad to allow the pin to drop into place.

I've built three and two out of three were this way. The third was poorly finished but completed just fine. No problems with the buffer tubes. I don't drill out the pins using the markings I use my jig (CNC Gunsmithing).

That said, I just bought a fourth - $50 on New Years sale.

EPLOWERS
01-04-2014, 5:35 PM
kipt7_ltcP8

p2toy
01-04-2014, 8:15 PM
I posted this as a reply on one of the threads in the "Deals, Sales and Coupons" section. Thought I should post it here to support the product :)

Pretty happy with mine. I was skeptical at first, but for $35 i gave it a shot. I used a very small drill bit as a pilot hole for the hammer, trigger and selector, cut off the tab sticking out, then stepped up the bit after that. Worked out well. The rear take down pin was a little tight but it fits. I actually like it, nice tight fit, no wiggles. About 800+ rounds and still going.

I have another one i just finished for a pistol build, just waiting for the upper.

http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r266/ek_tep/Mobile%20Uploads/20131122_204503.jpg (http://s146.photobucket.com/user/ek_tep/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20131122_204503.jpg.html)

http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r266/ek_tep/Mobile%20Uploads/20131122_204438.jpg (http://s146.photobucket.com/user/ek_tep/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20131122_204438.jpg.html)

EPLOWERS
01-05-2014, 8:55 AM
http://www.thebangswitch.com/building-an-ep-armory-80-ar-lower/

juelz919
01-05-2014, 9:32 AM
Without a jig the holes dont work.

gsc3zny
01-05-2014, 3:56 PM
Without a jig the holes dont work.

Your absolutely right, the holes will be off. I used a generic jig on mine and they came out perfect on a b blemished. I used the nubs on a brand new one and the safety selector was way off and the trigger pins were not lined up-had to throw it out, wasted $100

EPLOWERS
01-06-2014, 6:32 PM
Without a jig the holes dont work.

That is not true. You need to watch the most recent video posted. No jig was used.

EPLOWERS
01-06-2014, 6:33 PM
https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/1553268_569350699815534_502874406_o.jpg

bohoki
01-06-2014, 9:54 PM
yall got me terrified of using my lower with 223 i'm thinking of 22lr only

i put a bit of grease in my tube and when i cycle it the back of the carrier now has grease on it

so i worry about rub and if firing possible excessive angular force

with my vision armory issues i'm starting to think there is not an 80% worth buying unless it costs $80 or more

umd
01-06-2014, 10:07 PM
Holy huge picture batman!

gsc3zny
01-06-2014, 10:45 PM
Wasted a hundred bucks. All I can do is chalk it up to a learning experience

juelz919
01-08-2014, 8:25 PM
That is not true. You need to watch the most recent video posted. No jig was used.

Im not trying to bad mouth your product.
You say the holes work my experience is they dont.

You guys should put out an optional jig. I did it exactly how that guy in the video. My holes are off.

Alpha Male
01-08-2014, 10:02 PM
when are your black ones coming back, i might get the pink one to make a hello kitty one if **** dont fall through.

EPLOWERS
01-09-2014, 5:22 AM
Im not trying to bad mouth your product.
You say the holes work my experience is they dont.

You guys should put out an optional jig. I did it exactly how that guy in the video. My holes are off.

Well not to make an argument about it but all I can say is they work in our instructional videos and for thousands that have purchased our product before. A lot has been said out there that just isn't true. Indicators for drill locations cannot move. Keep in mind there are variations in fitment between lower parts kits because of different manufacturing specs as well. Not all lower parts kits will act and feel the same way in our product. It is the same with aluminum lowers. I would urge you and everyone to due their due diligence in assessing our product and your own skill set required to complete them before purchasing.

EPLOWERS
01-09-2014, 5:24 AM
when are your black ones coming back, i might get the pink one to make a hello kitty one if **** dont fall through.

Black is coming in very soon keep checking backwww.eparmory.com and something else....

https://scontent-b-pao.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc1/1003827_570512366366034_791048253_n.jpg

umd
01-09-2014, 5:37 AM
That magwell doesn't look right

riddler408
01-09-2014, 12:13 PM
The calguns coupon code doesn't work???? is there a minimum $ amount for the code to work?

bohoki
01-09-2014, 12:50 PM
That magwell doesn't look right

you ain't whistling dixie

i only assume they will go up in price as soon as they run out of old stock and start drilling the rear take down pin hole in the proper location

juelz919
01-09-2014, 9:27 PM
Well not to make an argument about it but all I can say is they work in our instructional videos and for thousands that have purchased our product before. A lot has been said out there that just isn't true. Indicators for drill locations cannot move. Keep in mind there are variations in fitment between lower parts kits because of different manufacturing specs as well. Not all lower parts kits will act and feel the same way in our product. It is the same with aluminum lowers. I would urge you and everyone to due their do diligence in assessing our product and your own skill set required to complete them before purchasing.


A cheap little jig would be a cool option. Coming from a customers point of view.
I am not blaming you or the product.

bm55
01-09-2014, 10:09 PM
Help! I inserted the spring and detent and depressed them to install the front take down and the pin won't pop back out and I'm not sure how to fix it. The pin is flush with the face of the receiver without the takedown pin in place. What can I do?

thanks

inbox485
01-09-2014, 10:31 PM
Help! I inserted the spring and detent and depressed them to install the front take down and the pin won't pop back out and I'm not sure how to fix it. The pin is flush with the face of the receiver without the takedown pin in place. What can I do?

thanks

PM Sent

Hdawg
01-10-2014, 12:00 AM
I just went to the website to order a Zombie green lower and then I saw shipping was $15. Since you can ship USPS flat rate Priority Mail for a little over five bucks and the post office provides the box, that seems excessive. I would rather have seen a $60 price for the lower and a legitimate shipping charge. It would have seemed more honest. I don't know if I will order one now.

Norcal_GIT_r
01-10-2014, 7:48 AM
I just went to the website to order a Zombie green lower and then I saw shipping was $15. Since you can ship USPS flat rate Priority Mail for a little over five bucks and the post office provides the box, that seems excessive. I would rather have seen a $60 price for the lower and a legitimate shipping charge. It would have seemed more honest. I don't know if I will order one now.

I passed on it for the same reason. They come in a six dollar priority mailbox so they're not really on sale if you have that inflated shipping price.
I've actually done two and the holes are off I know you guys don't like to admit it but I'm very good at building them and both had exactly the same issue. I've made them work and they work fine but you do have an issue to look into. Or not as the case seems to be.

gsc3zny
01-10-2014, 9:48 AM
I passed on it for the same reason. They come in a six dollar priority mailbox so they're not really on sale if you have that inflated shipping price.
I've actually done two and the holes are off I know you guys don't like to admit it but I'm very good at building them and both had exactly the same issue. I've made them work and they work fine but you do have an issue to look into. Or not as the case seems to be.

Seems like a lot more negative than positive reviews

Norcal_GIT_r
01-10-2014, 12:39 PM
Seems like a lot more negative than positive reviews

They're not as bad as people are making them out but they're not perfect.
You just have to be careful when you're drilling the holes measure and so forth.

Blov
01-10-2014, 2:38 PM
They're not as bad as people are making them out but they're not perfect.
You just have to be careful when you're drilling the holes measure and so forth.

I agree, I made mine work just fine.

acelefty
01-10-2014, 8:27 PM
I think I'll try this out when a free shipping deal comes back. I have an 80% jig for the pin holes.

2DoorImpala
01-10-2014, 9:15 PM
Let's see how it holds up to 9mm. Buffer spacer and 9mm buffer installed already from previous build from a billet lower

http://i.imgur.com/QTfmjAj.jpg

2DoorImpala
01-10-2014, 9:17 PM
Forgot to add. Rifle was not complete at the time of the picture as you can see I didn't put back the charging handle or the BCG. Before it gets pointed out

droopy128
01-14-2014, 10:45 AM
Any recent coupon code ? 'calguns' code for free ship is not valid.

k1dude
01-14-2014, 11:23 AM
Does anyone know what jigs are compatible with these lowers? It seems to be hit or miss if you drill the holes without a jig.

umd
01-14-2014, 11:29 AM
Does anyone know what jigs are compatible with these lowers? It seems to be hit or miss if you drill the holes without a jig.

I used a blue jig; had to just file away a little rib on the side of the lower to get it to fit.

chambies
01-14-2014, 1:10 PM
Ordered yesterday... Couldn't get free shipping coupon code to work. Made a small note in the comments box and sent a PM. Item shipped out today and charged $15 for shipping.

EPLOWERS
01-16-2014, 9:35 AM
wpRP5FMBNtw

Elwood_Blues
01-18-2014, 5:54 PM
So you have time to make videos, post replies, how about processing my refund for the out of spec lowers that you received from me two days short of four weeks ago???

bohoki
01-18-2014, 8:41 PM
i took mine for a test fire and got through about 10 boxes of ammo but i shouldered it every shot was using a 3 oz carbine buffer and was noticing a bit more recoil than my rifle length buffer in another ar

i'm worried about it breaking since the rear takedown pin hole is slightly high that means almost 1mm of plastic not doing its job

but it is holding together

inbox485
01-19-2014, 5:33 AM
So you have time to make videos, post replies, how about processing my refund for the out of spec lowers that you received from me two days short of four weeks ago???

Good luck. Never got my promised refunds either.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

EPLOWERS
01-19-2014, 1:44 PM
So you have time to make videos, post replies, how about processing my refund for the out of spec lowers that you received from me two days short of four weeks ago???

I am sorry to hear you are having problems. PM me your order number and information. I will forward it to them. I only handle forum and technical questions but I will try to help you.

John

EPLOWERS
01-19-2014, 1:48 PM
They're not as bad as people are making them out but they're not perfect.
You just have to be careful when you're drilling the holes measure and so forth.

Thank you.

riddler408
01-20-2014, 10:14 AM
I used a jig bought on ebay for $70 for my blemished unit(didn't want to chance it after all the stories I read). I will install the lpk tonight, and take it to the range next the weekend after next.

riddler408
01-20-2014, 10:19 AM
They're not as bad as people are making them out but they're not perfect.
You just have to be careful when you're drilling the holes measure and so forth.

I used a jig, but once I was finished it seemed as though all the dimples were in the correct places. I just didn't want to chance screwing it up... if all goes well with the lpk and range test I will be buying more!

NokSuCow
01-20-2014, 3:19 PM
So are thess good to buy? I would have to buy a dremel to complete the work. I want something cheap for my PTAC I just bought.

And the 'calguns' code doesn’t work.

gsc3zny
01-20-2014, 10:49 PM
I used a jig bought on ebay for $70 for my blemished unit(didn't want to chance it after all the stories I read). I will install the lpk tonight, and take it to the range next the weekend after next.
Sounds like the same one I bought, worked just fine

speeedracerr
01-21-2014, 2:26 AM
I purchased a couple of them and they work fine... When drilling the holes for the hammer/trigger pins, you really need to take your time. If you're off just a little, it'll cause you such a big headache.

After completing my first EPLower, I kinda rushed my second one and the drill walked causing me to mess up my trigger/hammer pins. I used Walmart's Quick Steel which is like JB Weld to cover the screwup and it works.

Wouldn't mind getting another one again in the future, but anyone considering this lower must have patients to complete.

EPLOWERS
01-21-2014, 8:19 AM
Any assertions that the drill indicator locations are inaccurate is absolutely false. If the holes are in the wrong place then they have been drilled that way. I can't emphasize enough take your time and drill pilot holes first through the dimples. Then cut off the pins and drill. As I have suggested before you may want to use a brad point or pilot point bit for the fire select switch as well.

John

bohoki
01-21-2014, 9:21 AM
i got a small question for you are you drilling the rear takedown pin lower in your current production or is your system still set up for a slightly higher hole?

also are those holes in the mold are done after (unless that is a trade secret)


i know i ended up with a working firearm at the end of the day and without admitting any fault

did someone get fired over that?

EPLOWERS
01-21-2014, 4:39 PM
FYI calguns coupon code is not currently being offered at this time. However our new years sale pricing of $50 per unit has been extended indefinitely.

riddler408
01-22-2014, 12:20 PM
Did a quick fit test with my parts kit last night. all seems to be good. rear take down pin is tight.

As I said before I used a jig, but upon inspecting it after drilling I can see that all the dimples were in the correct places. will complete the lpk assembly this weekend and hopefully have a range report by sunday feb 2nd.

riddler408
01-22-2014, 12:21 PM
John,

any idea when more blemished units will be available? Specifically pink and black.

Thanks

CaliforniaGunAnarchist
01-23-2014, 5:31 PM
NO, They are not perfect and identical like they claim to be, and some ep80's have different issues than others, i have built 6 so far. All I have managed to get working except for one, but not without a whole bunch of fitting issues. First problem I had was with the bolt catch release hole. Which was a fraction of an inch to small, so wen i installed the spring and and plunger that go in the bolt catch release hole, IT GOT STUCK!!!!!, so I'm left with no spring tension so I didn't even get to install a goddamn bolt catch relase, (PROBLEM) but luckily, the gun still works, turns out you don't need a bolt catch at all.
After that, my next build went perfectly, but after that I came across a different problem, the hole for spring and plunger to retain the buffer tube was no big enuff to fit the plunger, the spring fit in, but not the plunger, so i took a hobbiest file and widened it untill it was big enuff to slide in and out with no problem. the rest of the rifle of the build went together perfectly and now i have a awesome ca legal ar 15 pistol.

4th build: Not one single problem untill installation again!!!!!!! safety with not working, appears to be to high, I followed the jigless design perfectly, and it even appers to be perfectly under neath the engraving that says semi JUST like my other builds. anywaysssss, I uninstalled the safety switch, and now have ar 15 with no saftey!!!!! oooooo scary, lol, i dont use safetys to often anyways, becauze I never keep one in the chamber and unless i am shooting, and i always unload my firearms after use and keep the bolts back with a flag saftey.

5th build, Same problem as number 4, but this time safety switch a fraction of inch to low, AGAIN I BELIEVE TO NOT BE MY FAULT. good news tho! easy fix, just filed the middle of the saftey selector a tiny bit and presto! no problem, ughghhh these things are causing me headaches!!!!

6th build: Imma keep on building them cuz i dont give ****! and Its an awesome way to secure my arsenal of ar 15's incase the government decides to take my registered ones away, also started this build because of idiottard ca state senator De Leon and his ghost guns!!!!!

So to sum this all up, yeah they are kinda hard to build, and yeah they have minor issues, BUT I can still build as many as i want with about 90 dollars worth of tools that i bought, and We as americans and californians still have the right to do so, so imma do it!!!

P.s. Im young, and have no experience building guns ever, i am knowledgable tho and a quick learner... anyways Prior to this i had never used a dremel never built a gun, never assembled a gun, and had no one to help me. ANYONE can do it, everyone shud do it.


US AS CALIFORNIANS, NEED TO BUILD WAREHOUSES AND WAREHOUSES OF THESE SO CALLED GHOST GUNS. AND THAT IS A FACT! Seems like a lot more negative than positive reviews

2DoorImpala
01-23-2014, 5:42 PM
My bolt catch also got stuck. I was going to punch it out. But probably end up breaking the lower in the process

juelz919
01-23-2014, 10:46 PM
Ok it isnt your product but half of us idiots cant seem to figure it out lol tell your engineer to release a cheap jig you guys will take over!

I dont care whose fault it is but it seems like alot of people are struggling with the same part. You guys have a great product if you had a jig it would be even more money for you guys and no more complaints from all of us slappys.

Just keep the jig affordable lol

droopy128
01-26-2014, 2:45 PM
My first 80% ever and using a mill. I'm fairly happy with my result, issue with the unit is the bolt catch spring hole, it a tight fit, run with a drill bit solve the problem.

Other is the rear take down hole, it's a hair off so unable to push pin all the way thru even with correction of pin opening. Few pass with a file and all good.

I made a boo boo on the selector hole on the pink one, its like 1/8 too low, so when install, selector hitting the trigger piece and trigger would not work. Need a little mod on this to make it work.

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p188/droopy128/AR/IMG_4440_zps673bbbe8.jpg (http://s128.photobucket.com/user/droopy128/media/AR/IMG_4440_zps673bbbe8.jpg.html)

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p188/droopy128/AR/IMG_4441_zps79949a41.jpg (http://s128.photobucket.com/user/droopy128/media/AR/IMG_4441_zps79949a41.jpg.html)

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p188/droopy128/AR/IMG_4443_zps0a63fc9e.jpg (http://s128.photobucket.com/user/droopy128/media/AR/IMG_4443_zps0a63fc9e.jpg.html)

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p188/droopy128/AR/IMG_4447_zps644ac7c6.jpg (http://s128.photobucket.com/user/droopy128/media/AR/IMG_4447_zps644ac7c6.jpg.html)

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p188/droopy128/AR/IMG_4458_zps3d9ee610.jpg (http://s128.photobucket.com/user/droopy128/media/AR/IMG_4458_zps3d9ee610.jpg.html)

UPDATE.. Issue found with bolt catch, it's loose and bit far back. Pix with pmag, maybe different result with other mag, don't know yet.

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p188/droopy128/AR/IMG_4462_zpsb8289af1.jpg (http://s128.photobucket.com/user/droopy128/media/AR/IMG_4462_zpsb8289af1.jpg.html)

My fix.. sort of with a paper clip

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p188/droopy128/AR/IMG_4464_zps34d63f5c.jpg (http://s128.photobucket.com/user/droopy128/media/AR/IMG_4464_zps34d63f5c.jpg.html)

With the paper clip loop inside the gap, a little better, much less play.

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p188/droopy128/AR/IMG_4469_zps6c5c8cac.jpg (http://s128.photobucket.com/user/droopy128/media/AR/IMG_4469_zps6c5c8cac.jpg.html)

Still barely hit the follower

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p188/droopy128/AR/IMG_4473_zps9fdac2a8.jpg (http://s128.photobucket.com/user/droopy128/media/AR/IMG_4473_zps9fdac2a8.jpg.html)

No issue with black dog mag, I guess this will be a .22 lower only

http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p188/droopy128/AR/IMG_4476_zps73442e73.jpg (http://s128.photobucket.com/user/droopy128/media/AR/IMG_4476_zps73442e73.jpg.html)

ROAD_DOG
01-26-2014, 5:09 PM
Ok it isnt your product but half of us idiots cant seem to figure it out lol tell your engineer to release a cheap jig you guys will take over!

I dont care whose fault it is but it seems like alot of people are struggling with the same part. You guys have a great product if you had a jig it would be even more money for you guys and no more complaints from all of us slappys.

Just keep the jig affordable lol

It's the same thing I have been bringing up but I am just going to end up buying a 80% arms jig not to complete the fcg pocket but to drill the side holes...

ziconceo
01-27-2014, 11:52 AM
Just finished my ep 80% lower using a drill press, a deremel, a vise, and a knife. I have got to say that this was pretty easy to make as far as machining is concerned. Took me a total of 8 hours. One problem I am having though, is when ever I dry fire the rifle with the ep lower attatched, the hammer pin "walks" out of its hole. I think it just needs some glue or something. Other than that no other problems so far. Can't wait to make range report in about 2 weeks

Sent from my unknown using Tapatalk

riddler408
01-27-2014, 2:23 PM
Just finished my ep 80% lower using a drill press, a deremel, a vise, and a knife. I have got to say that this was pretty easy to make as far as machining is concerned. Took me a total of 8 hours. One problem I am having though, is when ever I dry fire the rifle with the ep lower attatched, the hammer pin "walks" out of its hole. I think it just needs some glue or something. Other than that no other problems so far. Can't wait to make range report in about 2 weeks

Sent from my unknown using Tapatalk

$15.99 anti walk pins

http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/showthread.php?t=860297

bohoki
01-27-2014, 4:41 PM
anti walk pins are not as good as the anti rotation pins they will prevent holes from egging

riddler408
01-27-2014, 4:58 PM
anti walk pins are not as good as the anti rotation pins they will prevent holes from egging

True. I plan on getting anti rotation oins due to the polymer. I can see them egging out much faster than aluminum.

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk

bigcalidave
01-28-2014, 10:28 AM
Let's lock this thread up. Problems with this vendor right now.