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View Full Version : Painted the 15/22 in Aervoe Coyote


RobGR
11-03-2012, 3:54 PM
Just painted the upper and the steel sights with Aervoe Coyote and I am extremely happy with the results so far when comparing it to my Magpul furniture. I hadn't read much about Aervoe paints and wanted to share if any other 15/22 shooters out there get the bug to change up the look on their rifles.

http://imageshack.us/a/img22/9515/dsc06643j.jpg

http://imageshack.us/a/img801/4037/dsc06647s.jpg

http://imageshack.us/a/img571/1967/dsc06649i.jpg

Overall, the differences are barely noticeable to me, but can be captured under different lighting conditions. I have used Brownells Alumhyde II in matte black before and it is an excellent product, however, the cure time and twice the cost, more the cure time, made me want to try something else. I might try the Aervoe on one of my AKs, not sure, but will post pics if I ever do.

As for prepping my polymer upper, I made a very poor decision to use Gunk "Non Chlorinated" Brake Off. The can clearly says not to use on plastics and 15 min after applying it I almost sh*t myself when I remember that I should not use it on plastics. I immediately poured boiling hot water over applied parts to wash away the Brake Off. Of course, I also googled it's effects and read that a few people have used it on their Glocks for years without issue. Right now I don't see any disintegration or erosion of the polymer parts, but will keep an eye on it. Can't believe I did that. Need to read up on an alternative degreaser if I ever decide to do the polymer lower. Any recommendations on a degreaser for polymer or plastic parts?

Here are some progression shots and shots in different lighting of the Aervoe Coyote Camo Paint with Magpul RVG and MOE stock in FDE on my S&W 15/22 polymer upper. The rail ladders were $4 cheapies off of Amazon.

Direct sunlight shot after first paint job. I repainted 72 hrs later, a light second layer. Comparing color with a Magpul FDE RVG.

http://imageshack.us/a/img37/4474/dsc06624o.jpg

On the shadow side. The difference is abrupt, but not so noticeable to the naked eye.

http://img832.imageshack.us/img832/7826/dsc06625w.jpg

Furniture line up with painted polymer upper, Troy flip front sight (not pictured) and A2 steel rear sight, both painted with Aervoe Coyote. No lube yet, thus a very matte looking finish.

Evening, no flash. Magpul MOE stock definitely has a different look, even from the Magpul RVG.

http://imageshack.us/a/img821/5679/dsc06635n.jpg

Closeup. Evening, no flash.

http://imageshack.us/a/img600/7751/dsc06638w.jpg

With flash.

http://imageshack.us/a/img707/235/dsc06639s.jpg

Oh, and it didn't have that tacky feel Krylon has. After a day, although I allowed it to cure a little longer, it was dry to the touch.

Now to go shoot!

triggs75
11-03-2012, 11:01 PM
Looks awsome. You gonna do the lower next?

I did mine with Aluma hyde in Coyote and was a near perfect match with the FDE Magpoul color.

Chad

223556
11-03-2012, 11:10 PM
Looks amazing, even if the coloration is slightly off.
It gives its multi tone of FDE, looks good!

SkyStorm82
11-04-2012, 2:31 AM
That looks good. FWIW, I've read on another forum that Aervoe light coyote is a "dead match" for Magpuls FDE. No personal experience though.

RobGR
11-04-2012, 7:09 AM
triggs75, I think I'm going to stick with the duo tone for a while. Down the line I might do the lower, but no plans to do it just yet. What degreaser did you use?

SkyStorm82 , I'd say it's just Coyote, not Light Coyote. The match isn't perfect or as exact as the Alymehyde II Coyote, but for a rattle can it's really close. Granted AH II comes in a rattle can too, it's just the curing time and curing temp that was a concern. The differences I found was really in the Magpul furniture, as seen above, the RVG is a different shade from the MOE stock. However, as 223556 stated, it gives the rifle a nice variation that honestly isn't noticeable unless you are an FDE stickler.

RobGR
11-04-2012, 10:04 AM
Ah, triggs75, also wanted to ask you, besides the degreaser you used, did you paint over the serial number plate on the 15/22 lower?

Wondering if I can do that and if the numbers are still legible, slightly debossed/rise.

triggs75
11-04-2012, 10:18 AM
For a degreaser I just used some dish detergent soap then dried it and baked the plastic parts for a minute before I applied the rattle can.

As for the seriel numbers, I placed some blue tape over them so they did not get covered up. Here is pic after I removed the blue tape

http://imageshack.us/a/img841/473/img1897as.jpg


Chad

RobGR
11-04-2012, 11:05 AM
Nice, Chad. You definitely went the professional route in regard to a complete disassemble and using AH II. Post a pic or link on here of your assembled 15/22 in coyote, would love to see it.

I went more the lazy man route. I took an empty paper towel cardboard roll, shoved it over the barrel and shroud, stuffed the internals, taped it all down, and applied the Aervoe. I also do not have a barrel nut wrench for the 15/22, though I guess you can make one from a PVC pipe.

Good to know on the metal plate, common sense dictates you shouldn't paint over it, but was really hoping I could.

Mesa Tactical
11-04-2012, 1:59 PM
You guys trying to get a perfect match with your Magpul furniture: why not just paint the Magpul parts at the same time as the rest of the rifle?

RobGR
11-04-2012, 2:21 PM
........ thanks.... Mesa Tactical.... really needed your input on the obvious. Just doing Magpul FDE comparison, big deal. Please leave this thread if you have nothing else to contribute.

triggs75
11-04-2012, 2:34 PM
Nice, Chad. You definitely went the professional route in regard to a complete disassemble and using AH II. Post a pic or link on here of your assembled 15/22 in coyote, would love to see it.

I went more the lazy man route. I took an empty paper towel cardboard roll, shoved it over the barrel and shroud, stuffed the internals, taped it all down, and applied the Aervoe. I also do not have a barrel nut wrench for the 15/22, though I guess you can make one from a PVC pipe.

Good to know on the metal plate, common sense dictates you shouldn't paint over it, but was really hoping I could.

Thanks. Thats a good idea on the empty towel roll I would have never thought of that. Yeah decided to strip her down completely. here is a link to the rest of her. http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/showthread.php?t=631782

I have seen people spray over it, just do a light coat if you do. But I kind've like how its not painted. ANd yeah I bought the wrench so I can take her apart if needed or wanted to again. Will probably get another handguard down the road so it will be good to have.

You guys trying to get a perfect match with your Magpul furniture: why not just paint the Magpul parts at the same time as the rest of the rifle?

ummmm........ yeah

........ thanks.... Mesa Tactical.... really needed your input on the obvious. Just doing Magpul FDE comparison, big deal. Please leave this thread if you have nothing else to contribute.

LOL

RobGR
11-04-2012, 2:50 PM
Chad, that looks absolutely pro. Excellent job and attention to detail.

damon1272
11-04-2012, 2:52 PM
........ thanks.... Mesa Tactical.... really needed your input on the obvious. Just doing Magpul FDE comparison, big deal. Please leave this thread if you have nothing else to contribute.

Jeez, getting worked up over a small comment.

Rifle looks nice. Aervoe is a quality product. Used the krylon camo paint on my rifle. It is made for plastic and it worked pretty good but I have been thinking of going with a coyote or FDE color.

cwin
11-04-2012, 8:31 PM
You guys trying to get a perfect match with your Magpul furniture: why not just paint the Magpul parts at the same time as the rest of the rifle?

I don't have a problem with this comment. Seems he was just trying to be helpful? Anyways, I think your rifle looks great. Is that the stock barrel or do you have a shroud on it?

RobGR
11-05-2012, 12:29 PM
It's a shroud, cwin. One has far better options if you have a threaded barrel on your 15/22. Mine is not. Unfortunately.

Sorry, guys, seen too many snide remarks lately and am simply tired of it. My apologies to Mesa tactical if he was indeed trying to be constructive instead off a smart-a.

A stock, vertical grip and pistol grip are high points of contact that generate a lot of friction. The last thing anyone wants is paint residue coming off the stock onto one's face or off onto your hands and gloves. Therefore, one would want to avoid painting these parts. Common sense would dictate that or one would at least find out very quickly that it was probably not a good idea to paint those parts. I like the worn look, I just don't want it rubbing off on my skin and clothing. Lastly, the parts come in FDE, so why not simply find a close match. The general consensus is that AH II is one of the closest matches to Magpul FDE.

SkyStorm82
11-05-2012, 4:36 PM
Did you put any type of clear coat on it?

RobGR
11-05-2012, 5:03 PM
No, I did not, SkyStorm. I also didn't apply a clear coat when I used AH II matte black on my Draco, but I know Brownells makes an AH II clear epoxy. I don't plan to on my 15/22 though. I have 1,500 + rnds down the pipe on that upper, just wanted a quick 'n easy lazy man's application. I could definitely see using a clear coat on a Krylon application though, I hate that stuff, had it peel off on a rail I painted once, a freaking mess.

Additionally, in regard to Mesa Tactical's comment about painting furniture, I could definitely see the necessity of using a clear coat then, especially with something like AH II or Duracoat to ensure longevity. But the cure time on that can be several weeks (AH II at least, no experience with cerakote or duracoat); apply initial color, allow to cure, apply clear coat, allow to cure. Or am I wrong in my assessment? Any words of advice are appreciated.

Lexington-1
11-11-2012, 10:15 PM
Very nice paint and color. How well does it resist scratching?

uxo2
11-12-2012, 9:45 AM
looks good...

For plastics..I generally use DAWN dish soap...
Original blue not no funky smells..


The only thing I hate about Aluma-Hyde is the nozzle
clog up.

I found that curing time can be sped up "AH"
if I put said parts in the oven under 200deg
for an hour.


Let us know how it holds up compared to AlumaHyde.

AK all day
11-12-2012, 9:55 AM
Looks awesome man! I would to do that to my LR-308 when I finish the build, but its a bit intimidating to me.

Darth_Finger
11-12-2012, 8:37 PM
How well do the mags hold up with them being painted? Looks awesome.

RobGR
11-13-2012, 10:57 AM
Very nice paint and color. How well does it resist scratching?

For the Aervoe, don't really know yet, haven't abused it or put that inevitable first scratch on it. Will get to go shooting next week I hope, just slammed at work and busy lately. When I do shoot it, first signs will definitely appear on the shell deflector and will report back. On a centerfire casing, I imagine it would obviously chip away (at the deflector).

For AH II, on my black Draco, scratching it will remove the paint, but it is very resistant to normal wear during cleaning.

looks good...

For plastics..I generally use DAWN dish soap...
Original blue not no funky smells..


The only thing I hate about Aluma-Hyde is the nozzle
clog up.

I found that curing time can be sped up "AH"
if I put said parts in the oven under 200deg
for an hour.


Let us know how it holds up compared to AlumaHyde.

Yeah, would be hesitant to cure a polymer upper with heat... hmmmm, but Glock frames hold up, just concerned about the constant temp over a duration of time. With my DRACO I let it hang in the garage for three - four weeks during this past summer. Came out perfect.

So true about the AH II nozzle. Expected that with the Aervoe, but it was just the opposite, very clean without any sputtering.

How well do the mags hold up with them being painted? Looks awesome.

Didn't paint any... maybe I will try one and see how the abuse is on that. Will prep a mag tonite if I get a chance.

triggs75, painted his with AH II, maybe he can chime in if he sees the comment on how his are holding up. I would expect the mags to get more abuse than the firearm.

RobGR
11-25-2012, 8:13 PM
Okay, finally got to the range today, put just over 500 rnds down. Had a blast with the M&P, as always, wish I could say the same about my FNP 9....

Also painted a mag, as mentioned in the post above, and put it to use. 110 rnds through it. Definitely more wear on the mag, barely any on the upper. The mag is worn in areas that are to be expected.

I used Remoil for the cleaning. The CCI bulk ammo I used was caked on the bolt, dirty, just as bad as Federal. 3 failures to feed on my 10/30 mags.

http://imageshack.us/a/img836/1492/rtside.jpg

http://imageshack.us/a/img717/2877/portuk.jpg

http://imageshack.us/a/img404/4710/magside1.jpg

http://imageshack.us/a/img600/149/magside2.jpg

http://imageshack.us/a/img198/2161/magcloseup.jpg

Javi
11-25-2012, 11:32 PM
Okay, finally got to the range today, put just over 500 rnds down. Had a blast with the M&P, as always, wish I could say the same about my FNP 9....


Gun looks good! What was going on with the FNP 9? I own both the M&P & FNH as well. I shoot my S&W better, of course haha.

RobGR
11-26-2012, 5:39 PM
FNP 9 is kicking brass to my face, 6 o'clock ejection. I'm gonna have to call them because after 400 rnds the mutha should be broken in by now and it's not. It's frustrating to say the least.