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powaybob
08-19-2012, 3:48 PM
I have a Springfield Armory GI 1911 which was the bottom of the line when I bought it.IT is a great shooter, and I have upgraded the sights to 3 dot using the SA pro shop.

Now I think the trigger pull is too heavy. I have not measured it but it is certainly more than my XD 45 or 9, or my Glock 17. What would you do to reduce trigger pull? Shoot 10,000 rounds and let wear take its path, send it to SA for their trigger job, get an after market trigger assembly, or save up for a higher end 1911.

At this point I am leaning towards sending it to SA for an upgrade. The prices are reasonable and the service is pretty fast and reliable.

I'm looking for some thoughtful advice and experience here.

Press Check
08-19-2012, 4:06 PM
You need to have a trigger job done, period. Shooting 10,000 rounds may smooth the pull, but not reduce the pull weight, and the same smoothness can be accomplished by artificially wearing the mating surfaces by polishing. Remain mindful of the fact that 90% of the reduction in pull is accomplished by adjusting the center leaf in the sear spring, and stoning new angles on the sear nose and hammer hooks creates a crisp break.

Unless you intend upgrade to a Trophy Match, TRP or Custom, most production pistols all share the same baseline in pull weight, which is generally from 5.5 - 6.5 pounds.

opie4386
08-19-2012, 5:08 PM
Just get a drop in trigger kit. I belive they consist of sear,disconnect,searspring people rave about the cylinder and slide kit

Press Check
08-19-2012, 5:55 PM
Just get a drop in trigger kit. I belive they consist of sear,disconnect,searspring people rave about the cylinder and slide kit

Pales in comparasin to a traditional trigger job.

anothergunnut
08-19-2012, 6:27 PM
I had my local smith do mine. I think he charged $60 a few years ago. It went from crappy to fantastic. Only problem was I put up with a lousy trigger too long. Definitely the best $60 I ever spent on a gun.

90runner
08-19-2012, 9:50 PM
I put an STI trigger in mine and polished the **** out of it. Breaks like glass now and barely cost anything.

90runner
08-19-2012, 9:50 PM
I put an STI trigger in mine and polished the **** out of it. Breaks like glass now and barely cost anything.

Press Check
08-19-2012, 10:48 PM
Polish the trigger pad, trigger stirrup, and stone the frame tracks, and the pull itself will be smooth, but has absolutely nothing to do with a trigger breaking like glass. Polish too much and you have a trigger stirrup that floats in the frames tracks, and has vertical play at the pad.

DArBad
08-20-2012, 5:52 PM
The GI as it comes from the factory has SA's proprietary ILS systmen with a 28 lbs hammer spring. Replace the ILS with a true GI hammer spring of 23 lbs, put in a Colt sear spring and polish some of the parts as others have suggested and most likely, you will see a big improvement in the trigger pull without even replacing the stock trigger.

redcliff
08-20-2012, 7:29 PM
The GI as it comes from the factory has SA's proprietary ILS systmen with a 28 lbs hammer spring. Replace the ILS with a true GI hammer spring of 23 lbs, put in a Colt sear spring and polish some of the parts as others have suggested and most likely, you will see a big improvement in the trigger pull without even replacing the stock trigger.

Just a follow-up/possible clarification on this; you should either use the Wolff reduced power hammer springs made especially for the Springfield ILS system such as the #33624 OR replace your mainspring housing and it's components in order to use a true Colt type hammer spring.
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll137/ranjaz/samsh.jpg

sholling
08-20-2012, 8:33 PM
A trigger job on a 1911 is not a job for amateurs or even fly by night gunsmiths. My advice is to find a gunsmith that really knows 1911s and have him do it. 4-5lbs is a nice reasonably light trigger for a self defense pistol and I wouldn't go any lower. BTW if you plan to change the hammer to a commander style this is the time to have the gunsmith do it.

Brandon04GT
08-20-2012, 11:39 PM
Correct me if i'm wrong but you can still use the ILS MSH along with standard internals if you wanted...you'll just have a pointless keyhole in your MSH.

JTROKS
08-21-2012, 12:24 AM
I have done a trigger job on my SA 1911 9mm. Parts replaced were:

-Ti firing pin to a standard steel.
- mainspring and cap, opted for a Ti cap.
- punched out the ILS, plugged the hole and chased the checkering.

Did all the needed polishing without changing the sear tip angle, cleaned up the relief cut, adjusted the leaf spring a little and the result is a clean 2 lb 3 oz. Before anyone deem my trigger unsafe, this pistol is for range and competition use only.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh257/joshuatroy/DSC06413.jpg

Press Check
08-21-2012, 9:40 AM
I have done a trigger job on my SA 1911 9mm. Parts replaced were:

-Ti firing pin to a standard steel.
- mainspring and cap, opted for a Ti cap.
- punched out the ILS, plugged the hole and chased the checkering.

Did all the needed polishing without changing the sear tip angle, cleaned up the relief cut, adjusted the leaf spring a little and the result is a clean 2 lb 3 oz. Before anyone deem my trigger unsafe, this pistol is for range and competition use only.


Hard to believe that adjusting the leaf spring "a little" resulted in a reduction down to 2lbs, 3oz. That sort of reduction requires tool steel internals. In short, a complete organ transplant.

JTROKS
08-21-2012, 4:22 PM
The sear had a pretty good angle and the hammer hooks were fine requiring a very light touch of super fine ceramic stone. The mainspring did require replacing with a reduced power and it is setting off small rifle primers. I can take a video if you wish.

Brandon04GT
08-21-2012, 7:45 PM
What is the benefit of switching out the SA Ti firing pin to a steel one? Will it basically just allow you to use a lighter mainspring without risking light primer strikes that you may get with a Ti FP/light mainspring setup?

JTROKS
08-21-2012, 10:57 PM
What is the benefit of switching out the SA Ti firing pin to a steel one? Will it basically just allow you to use a lighter mainspring without risking light primer strikes that you may get with a Ti FP/light mainspring setup?

Without replacing the Ti FP combined with a reduced power mainspring will make it unreliable with rifle primers. Maybe I should test it out and post a range report, but with my experience with Ti FP shooting 175+ power factor back in the days resulted in severe primer flow or pierced primers even with rifle primers. If I was to shoot this gun with reduced loads using Federal small pistol primers will give it an advantage due to faster locktime conducive to better accuracy.