PDA

View Full Version : What cleaning stuff and lubricant should I buy?


Kazaam
08-15-2012, 8:22 AM
Getting ready to buy my first handgun (stainless sig p226) and have no idea what cleaning stuff to buy. Also, I hear this gun works best with grease over oil. With that said...what cleaning/maintenance stuff should I buy?

Thanks!

Trapper
08-15-2012, 8:32 AM
I use Slide Glide lite on my Sigs to reduce wear on the frame rails.
http://www.brianenos.com/pages/slide-glide.html
As for cleaning stuff
A good parts cleaning brush
Dewey cleaning rod
Correct diameter jag
Dewey brush
Jar of solvent

m98
08-15-2012, 8:35 AM
Go to ur lgs and have them show u the ropes on whatever they carry. Theres just wayy too many cleaning stuff to explain to u in a post.

The main things you will need are:

Cleanin rod
Matchin brass brush
Matchin brass jags
Solvent
Appropriate cleanin patches
And lube. In this case you can have both grease and oil. Typicall the grease is used on the slide rails and oil everwhere elses. Using all grease could give u malfunctions.

^^trap beat me to it

beatstanfurd
08-15-2012, 10:14 AM
mpro7 for cleaning.

Lubriplate FMO-AW oil and Lubriplate "SFL" NLGI #1 grease.

Used on my Sig p226 stainless too :)

http://www.grantcunningham.com/lubricants101.html

Frumious Bandersnatch
08-15-2012, 10:28 AM
I'm also about to buy my first cleaning stuff, to use on my Mosin 91/30 and Ruger 10/22. Currently planning on .22 and .30 brushes & jags, Hoppes #9 solvent, 3-in-1 machine oil as the lube, cotton patches, and a rod. I'm most interested in opinions on the 3-in-1 oil versus something else, and the finer points of choosing a rod.

Carbon fiber rod like http://amzn.com/B000BY56FO to last forever, never scratch anything, and probably be stiff enough to use for a wide range of calibers? Or cheaper three-piece rods in multiple calibers?

Munk
08-15-2012, 10:29 AM
get a hoppes kit for your caliber. It'll come with an aluminum rod, a brass brush, a plastic jag, a plastic loop, an itty bitty starter pack of patches (if your gun is currently clean or has previously been maintained, these may actually last you quite a while depending on your ammo/powder choice), some oil and some hoppes cleaning solvent.

Get a silicone cloth for an after-cleaning wipedown.

Use an old rag or some paper towels to wipe out accumulated grit/whatever before the cleaning.

Maybe swap out the rod for a brass one or a carbon fiber rod or fiberglass (i'd avoid a steel rod, even if coated with something).

Make sure you're not cleaning over your carpets, use a drop cloth, or clean on a counter/table that can handle a solvent splash.

robert101
08-15-2012, 10:41 AM
Yes, get a cleaning kit as suggested. Now to your comment about 3 in 1 oil, I'd say there is much better. I use the Hoppes #9 for barrel cleaning at times and good old 30 weight Mobil 1 Synthetic for gun oil. You can certainly buy the other specific gun lubicants but Mobil 1 is a solid performer. Do a search on gun oil and have fun reading the various posts on the topic. Plan to spend an hour or so reading.

jessegpresley
08-15-2012, 11:00 AM
M Pro 7 for cleaning. It works well, doesn't smell, has a consistency of soapy water.

Weapon Shield for a lubricant and protectant. Has a pleasant cinnamon smell, doesn't need to be put in the oven (like Frog Lube).

Slide Glide for grease.

People that suggest Breakfree, Hoppe's and RemOil haven't used anything else.

Motor oils contain carcinogens (cancer causing agents). Stay away from them.

beerman
08-15-2012, 11:27 AM
Hoppes #9 for bore cleaning ,followed by a Wipedown with G-96 (I like this stuff alot...smells like bubble-gum) and some light grease for slide rails (I use USGI lubriplate, but any light grease will work)....this has been my standby for years.

CK_32
08-15-2012, 11:37 AM
Everyone has their favorites for the most part they do the same thing..

Heres my recipe for all my guns (700,Ar15,glock17,870,AR22lr)

Hoppes (for cleaning)
Rem oil spray (rails and internals/bore after cleaning)
Kroil oil (back up for rails and internals)
Eezox (for exterior keepin off surface rust)

I only use patches for my AR/700 barrels the rest I get half a sheet of paper towel with cleaner and shove it as tight as possible and push it through with a cleaning rod until they come out clean (1 sheet can go about 3 passes. Just fold it over to clean sides)

Rest I wipe off with qtips and shop rags..

And for the guys who don't think that will work.. And said I would regret not using frog lube.

700: 250 rounds no failures
Ar15: 3k rounds no failures (900 rounds one trip with a single lube and clean preshoot)
870: 200 rounds no failures
Glock17: 5k+ rounds no FTE/FTF
22lr AR: 4k+ rounds no FTF/FTE (accept for using bad ammo)

Hard to argue that the stuff I use doesn't work. Again it all pretty much does the same thing just trust in your products and guns and do it yours own.

Other than that just a few old tooth brushes. Bore brushes and a ton of qtips and rags.. 3 cleaning rods.. 1 for glock 17 barrel 5"er 1 for my 700/870 30"er and 1 20" for my AR.

Oldnoob
08-15-2012, 12:37 PM
I use whatever cheap oil to clean (Rem, Hoppes etc). And lube all my pistols with Foglub.

theneko
08-15-2012, 1:33 PM
You will get many opinions on this one but I like CLP for cleaning and slide glide on the rails. YMMV

CK_32
08-15-2012, 1:40 PM
The only must I have to highly reccomended for my list that is better than most is the eezox surface lube that stuff is amazing.. Had a really bad rust problem with my 700 due to living right on the beach and tried 3 kinds of preventative and finally saw eezox and they'd testimonials.. Bought a can and I can say by far worlds ahead of avoiding and reducing rust for firearms.. Stuffs amazing after 4 good cleanings and good coats of eezox you can forget about your guns ever rising over in storage again. Use to have to touch up the 700 every 2 weeks for right rust. After eezox I havnt touched it in 3 years till yesterday even when handling the metals barehanded which would usually imidiatly rust next day.

patrickstarfish
08-15-2012, 1:48 PM
Slip 2000 EWL for lube, frog lube to clean, kG for barrel cleaning.

I won't change this regimen for a while

Kazaam
09-22-2012, 11:11 AM
So lets say i get hoppes #9 or something for a cleaner, what lubricant/protectant would you all recommend?

CK_32
09-22-2012, 11:15 AM
So lets say i get hoppes #9 or something for a cleaner, what lubricant/protectant would you all recommend?

Op honestly most of it does the job.. Everyone will swear by this or that or this and that.. Ive bought several lubes/cleaners and yadda yadda yadda and all my guns run and work fine..

Just go spend !0 and try a few and see what YOU like and find out. And then maybe can teach a few of us a few things about it next time its asked.

JeremyS
09-22-2012, 1:13 PM
So lets say i get hoppes #9 or something for a cleaner, what lubricant/protectant would you all recommend?
Hoppes #9 is a toxic solvent that causes nerve and neurological damage through skin contact. It does work well. There are other products on the market that are not toxic.

Weapon Shield makes a great CLP that is a good cleaner, excellent lubricator, and offers good rust protection. They also make a grease that is great for high-friction metal-on-metal moving parts. Non-toxic. Works amazingly well. You can get both in a kit: http://www.sportsmansguide.com/net/cb/weapon-shield-grease-kit.aspx?a=680494

You'll still want brushes, rods, jags, etc: http://www.sportsmansguide.com/net/cb/62-pc-guide-gear-gun-cleaning-kit.aspx?a=990012 <<< just an example that popped up. You can get kits like that anywhere.

I find these cotton (from actual clothes) patches to be SOOOOO much better than the ones that normally come in cheap kits. They don't lint and they don't break down. You can also cut up old t-shirts/undershirts and such: http://www.sportsmansguide.com/net/cb/1000-pack-gun-cleaning-patches.aspx?a=148248

JeremyS
09-22-2012, 1:19 PM
Oh in case you don't believe the Hoppes thing, here's the safety data sheet linked from their own site. So besides being highly flammable, the vapors are toxic, it's corrosive to skin, it's horrible for the environment... it goes on to say that it does long-term neurological damage, kidney and liver damage, etc etc...

http://www.hoppes.com/msds/MSDS-no9-gun-bore-cleaner.pdf


Seriously people. Well ventilated room and nitrile gloves. Or you could use any one of the many non-toxic options that are on the market these days. ...including, yes, Frog Lube, which you can literally eat with no problems (because it's Crisco shortening!)

Kazaam
09-22-2012, 1:20 PM
Appreciate the posts guys! I definitely do want something non-toxic, and am pretty much set on Ballistol, both because its supposed to work well, and its cheap. I'd love to try weaponshield but its a bit pricey it seems.

JeremyS
09-22-2012, 1:46 PM
I'd love to try weaponshield but its a bit pricey it seems.It is, yeah. But that kit from Sportsmansguide is pretty big. I've had mine for 18 months and still have more than half of it left. $26 every couple years isn't so bad.

Press Check
09-22-2012, 1:50 PM
Getting ready to buy my first handgun (stainless sig p226) and have no idea what cleaning stuff to buy. Also, I hear this gun works best with grease over oil. With that said...what cleaning/maintenance stuff should I buy?

Thanks!

To start, grab an Otis cleaning kit, and pick a CLP and solvent for your barrel. The first Otis kit I purchased was a USGI issued kit for an M9 pistol, which was very comprehensive, and more than you'll ever need.

6point9
09-22-2012, 2:12 PM
Also not sure if you're on any of the Sig forums but here's a good guide to lube your rails properly.

http://sigtalk.com/sig-sauer-pistols/132-flork-s-lubrication-sig-pistol-rails.html

sholling
09-22-2012, 2:36 PM
I use Slide Glide lite on my Sigs to reduce wear on the frame rails.
http://www.brianenos.com/pages/slide-glide.html
As for cleaning stuff
A good parts cleaning brush
Dewey cleaning rod
Correct diameter jag
Dewey brush
Jar of solvent
^This^

For solvent I use M-Pro 7 bore gel (http://www.cheaperthandirt.net/product/7-0701202) for the barrel and then wipe all metal surfaces including the bore with a thin coat of Break-Free CLP and wipe dry before coating the rails with rails with Slide-Glide Lite. I like M-Pro 7 because it doesn't smell bad. You can actually use it in the house without any backlash.

den888
09-22-2012, 4:49 PM
I use Remington 40X Bore Cleaner (less of a smell then Hoppe's #9) and then CLP to lube.

Dinosaur Jr
09-22-2012, 5:26 PM
I've used Hoppes Powder Solvent for a long time. Now I'm definitely moving away from it! Fortunately, I've been using spray CLP, Powder Blast and Remoil spray on my AR & AK, lately. Then, I've been trying out Frog Lube on my XD9 and shotgun with good results. Sounds like moving to Frog Lube has some toxicity advantages over the long term.

I understand motor oil works for some folks, but for myself, I'm happy with it doing the job it was intended for.

dougd1015
09-22-2012, 9:51 PM
Balistol.

elsolo
09-22-2012, 10:02 PM
For pistols, it really doesn't matter all that much.
So long as you get the loose crud off, the powder residue, and any unburnt powder kernals or dirt; good enough.
Most any cleaner, cleaner/lube, or lube alone will work with a few flannel patches.
There is no copper fouling to worry about, barrel cleaning is a non-issue with pistols.
You don't need a nice cleaning rod, fitted jag, heavy brushing, or bore solvents.

ES13Raven
09-23-2012, 5:10 PM
Weapon Shield makes a great CLP that is a good cleaner, excellent lubricator, and offers good rust protection.

I don't trust any kind of "all-in-one" product like CLP. Cleaning & Lubricating should be separate. Cleaning means removing residue and lubricant. There are areas of the gun I like to clean but not lubricate.

I used to use Hoppe's #9, which does a great job of cleaning but smells up your place, gun etc. for a long time. I have also used Break Free, Rem Oil, other CLPs etc.

Now I use a combination that works really well: Hoppe's Elite (http://www.hoppes.com/products/elite_gun_cleaner.html) Gun Cleaner and Hoppe's Elite Gun Oil. The Gun Cleaner is made by the same company and is the exact same formula as Mpro-7. It cleans really well and leaves no odor in the house. The oil works well and has corrosion protection. :thumbsup:

4DMASTR
09-23-2012, 5:24 PM
I use #9 to clean (No more dangerous than the chemicals I work with every day) and Hoppe's Elite for lube. It is my opinion is that most anything will do a fine job, I just dont care for the idea of motor oil but seems to work great for many others.

socal147
09-23-2012, 6:17 PM
Most Handguns:
Hoppes 9 to clean. Yes, I wear nitrile gloves for this step. Wipe dry. Apply lube of your choice. I like the food grade such as Lubriplate.

Glocks:
Any dishwasher will do.

spetsnaz
09-23-2012, 6:31 PM
big fan of slide glide and ballistol

littlejake
09-24-2012, 8:44 AM
I moved away from Hoppe's #9 because it contained Nitrobenzene. However, the Material Data Sheet (MDS) shows they have changed their formula. That's good and bad. Nitrobenzene is bad stuff to inhale or touch -- other side of the coin, it doesn't clean as well.

After nearly 50years, my cleaning kit has all sorts of rods, jags brushes, et cetera.

I'll just run down what I have as cleaning and lube products.


Blue Wonder Bore Cleaner
MPro7 Bore gel
Hoppes Oil
Breakfree CLP
Marvel Air Tool Oil
Lubriplate 130A grease
Gunzilla
Outers Gun Oil
WD-40

21SF
09-24-2012, 9:30 AM
Windex and astroglide.

JeremyS
09-24-2012, 9:36 AM
I don't trust any kind of "all-in-one" product like CLP. Cleaning & Lubricating should be separate.Every now and then I do completely strip my guns of all lube, meaning down to the bare, dry finish. This can be done with brake cleaner if it's okay with your gun's finish (non-chlorinated is safer for various finishes), a different solvent, hot water and dish soap, ultrasonic cleaner, etc. Why? Because I agree with your comments even though I also stated that my typical cleaning involves using only the WeaponShield CLP. It is a good cleaner. Not a great cleaner. It will get rid of carbon deposits and other stuff pretty darn well and will leave your bore like-new clean (some of this is because it really does maintain a film on the surface and stuff like carbon, lead, copper doesn't stick well). It doesn't clean as aggressively as a cleaner-only solvent. Obviously since you are cleaning with the same product that is already on there, it doesn't remove all of it and take it to bare metal. It does mostly replace the old lube, which has become dirty, with new, clean lube. Mostly, but not entirely. That's why every now and then I completely strip and start again. I still find this to be less work and to use less product than stripping off all lube every single time I clean the gun, which I do not find necessary. Maybe it would be necessary if the lube is not the best quality and breaks down over time or attracts a lot of dust or otherwise gums up. I don't have that issue with the WS stuff.

I agree that CLP is always a compromise. The L properties of WS are top notch. C works well but can be beat by a dedicated solvent. P works well but not the best. For protection for long term storage I supplement with eezox (which reminds me, I need more eezox).

4 oz of it lasts an extremely long time. Check out the reviews on Midway: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/220438/steel-shield-weapon-shield-gun-oil-4-oz-liquid


...I also sometimes use Gunslick and Hoppes products because they're out at a family lake cabin and I end up cleaning guns out there. All of it works just fine and I happily use it. It's not as nice as the WS though. Cleans fine, but none of the lubricants stay in place the same way and moving parts don't feel quite as smooth...

DArBad
09-24-2012, 10:07 AM
Eds Red for general cleaning and Hoppe's 9 for metal fouling.

Fuel&Fire
09-24-2012, 11:00 AM
M-Pro 7 Here for Cleaning and Oil. Turners carries it, so its easy to pickup, and I can clean my guns on our Coffee table in the house while sitting on the couch drinking a beer, and watching TV. Love the stuff

em9sredbeam
09-24-2012, 11:05 AM
I have become a frog lube guy. When you wipe it off it takes all the crap with it, then you just reapply.

Timmm
09-24-2012, 4:58 PM
Hoppe's # 9.

SMR510
09-24-2012, 6:00 PM
Froglube is my new product of choice. It is so easy to clean after it has been treated and once you treat the gun you dont need much to maintain it. It is expensive but like I said you dont need very much after the gun is treated.

punisheryayarea
09-25-2012, 8:31 AM
SLIP 2000 all in one........

Briancnelson
09-25-2012, 8:49 AM
Most of the stuff here will work. I use Froglube with some other stuff for special cases.

Basically:

1. Rod
2. Jag
3. Cotton patches, don't go overboard on anything special, just get cheap ones, they work well.
4. A solvent that will get copper fouling for when you need to get at the buildup. I find many ordinary cleaners do a less than adequate job of this in the long term. You don't use this all the time, just when there's buildup.
5. An ordinary cleaner or clp for regular cleaning
6. A lube or CLP for lubrication after cleaning
7. Grease for the rails if you are using a gun that likes this, or wherever you have aluminum and steel rubbing against each other, it's good.
8. Microfiber rag for wiping down external surfaces.

Something to consider on plastic guns is to make sure you aren't using something that can damage the polymer. Another thing to consider is that Eezox, which I otherwise think highly of, can discolor and damage aluminum in some cases, evidently.

In my case, I use a copper bore solvent occasionally, and otherwise use Froglube, due to the fact I have to clean my guns indoors around areas my daughter frequents. No toxicity and a nice smell is important for me. Ballistol works about as well, but to me it smells funky. YMMV on the smell thing, other people I know don't mind it. It's cheaper, which is a plus.

Most of the other stuff mentioned works equally well, but a lot of it you'll want to wear gloves and be in a well ventilated area.

drunktank
09-25-2012, 9:15 AM
There are no specific lubes for guns, just marketing. Some lubes cover a better operating range, regarding firearms. Because of this I use Lubriplate and order it directly from vendors. A can of their grease was $10 or so and would last a lifetime. I regularly give my friends baggies if it and they've all turned to it.

Lubriplate's anti corrosion is superb as well. I use their spray can oil everything but rails. Both items are considered food safe as well.

My elevator equipment at the docks gets lubed with this stuff and doesn't rust. Some are 20 feet away from the ocean.

I use Hoppes solvent, but most solvents will work fine. Either way I wear gloves and have good ventilation. Interested in trying Mpro7 since its supposed to be less toxic.

Butch's bore shine gets lead fouling out a barrel better than any solvent I've tried.

If someone wants a free sample of Lubriplate grease (enough to last at least a year for most people), pm me your address or mail me a plastic syringe and ill fill it up for you. I'll lose this can or grease I got for $10 before I actually run out.

Timmay
09-25-2012, 12:09 PM
I have a P220 with many, many thousands of rounds through it. I use what Sig recommends, the same stuff I used in the Marine Corps on machine guns and the same stuff I use on all my guns, including my AR.

Mil-Comm TW25B.

SamayouSamurai
09-25-2012, 1:09 PM
Get this (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003H6DHBS/ref=pe_175190_21431760_M2T1_SC_dp_5). The rod in this kit actually fit inside a .22 caliber barrel.

JeremyS
09-25-2012, 1:21 PM
...I use Lubriplate and order it directly from vendors. A can of their grease was $10 or so and would last a lifetime. .....I use their spray can oil everything but rails.
I like the idea of this. What products from them, exactly, have you been using? Checking out their website they make a whole mess of things, including about 20 different multi-purpose greases, and were I to experiment with some of their products I'm not sure where I would even start: http://www.lubriplate.com/

beatstanfurd
09-25-2012, 2:00 PM
Lubriplate SFL-1 grease (https://www.applied.com/apps/commerce/catalog/catalog.do?e=21&s=3750832)
Lubriplate FMO-350-AW oil (https://www.applied.com/apps/commerce/catalog/catalog.do?e=21&s=3750897)

Ordered mine from www.applied.com and was able to pickup locally at a branch office. Don't have a grease gun, so I use a flux brush to apply the grease.

Have to agree with drunktank, the 14oz tube of grease will be the last tube I ever need to order.

XDJYo
09-25-2012, 5:30 PM
Oh in case you don't believe the Hoppes thing, here's the safety data sheet linked from their own site. So besides being highly flammable, the vapors are toxic, it's corrosive to skin, it's horrible for the environment... it goes on to say that it does long-term neurological damage, kidney and liver damage, etc etc...

http://www.hoppes.com/msds/MSDS-no9-gun-bore-cleaner.pdf


Seriously people. Well ventilated room and nitrile gloves. Or you could use any one of the many non-toxic options that are on the market these days. ...including, yes, Frog Lube, which you can literally eat with no problems (because it's Crisco shortening!)

Thanks for this! I was cleaning w/o gloves on my kitchen table. Now, I'm going to be MUCH more careful with that!!!

drunktank
09-26-2012, 7:26 PM
I like the idea of this. What products from them, exactly, have you been using? Checking out their website they make a whole mess of things, including about 20 different multi-purpose greases, and were I to experiment with some of their products I'm not sure where I would even start: http://www.lubriplate.com/

Beatstanford covered everything in the post below you, even down to the vendor! :)


Lubriplate SFL-1 grease (https://www.applied.com/apps/commerce/catalog/catalog.do?e=21&s=3750832)
Lubriplate FMO-350-AW oil (https://www.applied.com/apps/commerce/catalog/catalog.do?e=21&s=3750897)

Ordered mine from www.applied.com and was able to pickup locally at a branch office. Don't have a grease gun, so I use a flux brush to apply the grease.

Have to agree with drunktank, the 14oz tube of grease will be the last tube I ever need to order.

snafu510
09-26-2012, 8:45 PM
Pistol cleaning rod. Doesn't need to be fancy.
Bronze bore brush in the correct size for your caliber.
Brass jag in correct size for your caliber.
Cloth patches.
CLP of some sort. Lots of choices. None of them are bad.
Depending on the gun, toothpicks and q-tips can help.
Rag or towel or something.

That's enough to get started with. You can clean any handgun just fine with what's on the list. Cleaning is more about technique than product.

Since you asked what to buy I'll also include a quick how to:

Field strip the gun.
Put brush on the cleaning rod. Wet the brush with the clp and scrub the bore. Don't rush, don't hit the end of the barrel with the end of the rod or brush. Sometimes it only needs a few passes. Sometimes it will need a lot.
Let the barrel soak a bit while you clean everything else with clp, patches, q-tips, towell etc.
Put the jag on the rod and clean the barrel. Start with a couple of dry patches. If the bore is really dirty alternate a wet patch every 3 or 4. Don't reuse a dirty patch.
Lube according to manufacturer's recommendation
Reassemble and wipe the outside down.


If you have been shooting lead and get some leading don't fret. It's not hard to remove. Give it a good scrub with a new brush then hit it with the jag and a tight patch. Depending on the patches you can either use two, or put a little fold in one so it fits really tight in the bore. That will pick up the lead. Spread out the patch and you should see some lead streaks in the fibers. It may take a few tries to get it all out. Alternate scrubbing with the brush and wiping with tight patches.

Bore brushes wear out pretty quickly. I buy them in 10-packs. After 3 or 4 uses they are noticeably worn (may still be serviceable though) Old ones are good for scrubbing heavy fouling like on the breach face or feed ramp.

sd_fox_racer
09-27-2012, 1:16 AM
used to use hoppes #9 but switched over to froglube leaves no smell, can clean indoors and after the pistol is treated pretty easy to maintain...smells good too.

ES13Raven
09-27-2012, 7:36 AM
Something you might consider getting too:

While I am cleaning my guns, I used to use newspapers underneath to soak up cleaners and spray but I found something better - Puppy Pads. I had a bunch leftover from training my dog, and they work great at absorbing liquids but not letting them leak through. :thumbsup:

Horton Fenty
09-27-2012, 8:05 AM
...what cleaning/maintenance stuff should I buy?

Buy a good rod, jag set and brush set. I buy Tipton rods, I have four. Two 12" ones in two sizes, and two 36" ones in two sizes.

Hoppe's #9 for a solvent and a good oil will never be a bad choice. There are better.....make that faster alternatives.

I've been using Boretech's stuff in an attempt to ween myself off Hoppe's. Almost there. All their stuff is the new fancy non-toxic, no smell, no harm variety. More than that anything I've tried has worked very well.

Anyone ever tried Hoppe's and Kroil mixed 50/50? Or straight Kroil? I have and either one will strip lead and carbon out like you wouldn't believe. Not so much for copper though.

elsolo
09-27-2012, 8:09 AM
Something you might consider getting too:

While I am cleaning my guns, I used to use newspapers underneath to soak up cleaners and spray but I found something better - Puppy Pads. I had a bunch leftover from training my dog, and they work great at absorbing liquids but not letting them leak through. :thumbsup:

BIG +1

The plastic liner on the back, highly absorbent, small parts can't roll away.

XDJYo
09-27-2012, 1:26 PM
Been using Hoppes #9 but the barrel doesn't seem to get totally clean in the grooves. I soak a patch, run it thru and let it sit for about maybe 30 minutes, then brass bore brush, then jag + patches. I've even tried soaking the barrel twice, but I still can't get the grooves clean.

Am I doing it wrong or is my brass brush already worn out? (Only used 5-6 times) it has never gotten the vote clean and always have felt pretty loose inside the barrel.

snafu510
09-27-2012, 4:32 PM
XDJ, how dirty are the patches coming out? If it's a lot you might give a different kind of cleaner a try. If you are just getting a little gray on the patch I wouldn't bother cleaning any further. I've had some guns that never seem to get completely clean. As for your brush, it could be somewhat worn after just 5-6 uses but I don't think that's the problem. Hoppe's will dissolve the bronze and the scrubbing wears it down too. Rinsing the brush off with water after use can help but they won't last forever.

XDJYo
09-27-2012, 4:57 PM
XDJ, how dirty are the patches coming out? If it's a lot you might give a different kind of cleaner a try. If you are just getting a little gray on the patch I wouldn't bother cleaning any further. I've had some guns that never seem to get completely clean. As for your brush, it could be somewhat worn after just 5-6 uses but I don't think that's the problem. Hoppe's will dissolve the bronze and the scrubbing wears it down too. Rinsing the brush off with water after use can help but they won't last forever.

Well, the patches still come out with black streaks from the gunk in the grooves of the bore. When I look down the barrel, the grooves still have gunk in there. Not SUPER dirty, but enough to know that the grooves could be cleaner.

Good hint on washing the brushes. I've never done that so, maybe that's the problem too.

Maybe I could take a picture of the bore-it will have to wait until I take my 1911 apart again. Don't feel like fooling with it tonight. Too tired from work.

I will definitely need to get some more brushes though. Now to decide exactly what I want to spend my money on when it comes to cleaners etc. Looks like I've got A LOT more researching to do! :)

Thanks all for the tips here on CalGuns!!!

JeremyS
09-27-2012, 9:25 PM
I might recommend a plastic bore brush instead of brass. Unless you have really stubborn, stuck-on stuff and don't have time to let a solvent break it down, a plastic bristle bore brush is more than sufficient. I think they're a little friendlier to use and the solvent won't break them down. Remember that the solvent is made to dissolve copper -- often it actually says "copper solvent" on the bottle -- among other things, and brass is anywhere from 60% to 95% copper (depending on how hard you want it, with more copper being softer) so it's going to break down your brushes like snafu510 said. ...it's hard to remove copper from your bore when the brush itself continues depositing streaks of it :p...

You should be able to get the gunk out.

P.S. -- insert from chamber end and push out bore end. Remove patch from jag or slot, or remove brush from rod, then pull empty rod back through. Repeat. This will get "gunk" out of the barrel. If you are scrubbing back and forth you aren't doing yourself any favors. That works fine if it's only carbon deposits and your cleaner is capable of getting them onto a patch or two. Most of my cleaning doesn't involve a brush at all and just involves a patch with a decent amount of weaponshield CLP on it that goes up and down the bore a couple times to get it wet. Wait a minute or two. Run another patch back and forth once or twice with a bit less WS on it. Then run a dry patch or two through there, typically this time going only chamber to muzzle then new patch chamber to muzzle. Because the barrel started with a film of WS on it, nothing sticks and this is sufficient to have the inside of the barrel looking like the day it came off the assembly line.

Plenty of other products are capable of this. I think once you have it down to totally clean, like-new metal it's important to use a quality lube/clp/whatever that prevents buildup from accumulating, which makes future cleaning super easy. I chose weaponshield but apparently frog lube is great at this same thing and lots of other products as well.

XDJYo
09-28-2012, 5:50 AM
I might recommend a plastic bore brush instead of brass. Unless you have really stubborn, stuck-on stuff and don't have time to let a solvent break it down, a plastic bristle bore brush is more than sufficient. I think they're a little friendlier to use and the solvent won't break them down. Remember that the solvent is made to dissolve copper -- often it actually says "copper solvent" on the bottle -- among other things, and brass is anywhere from 60% to 95% copper (depending on how hard you want it, with more copper being softer) so it's going to break down your brushes like snafu510 said. ...it's hard to remove copper from your bore when the brush itself continues depositing streaks of it :p...

You should be able to get the gunk out.

P.S. -- insert from chamber end and push out bore end. Remove patch from jag or slot, or remove brush from rod, then pull empty rod back through. Repeat. This will get "gunk" out of the barrel. If you are scrubbing back and forth you aren't doing yourself any favors. That works fine if it's only carbon deposits and your cleaner is capable of getting them onto a patch or two. Most of my cleaning doesn't involve a brush at all and just involves a patch with a decent amount of weaponshield CLP on it that goes up and down the bore a couple times to get it wet. Wait a minute or two. Run another patch back and forth once or twice with a bit less WS on it. Then run a dry patch or two through there, typically this time going only chamber to muzzle then new patch chamber to muzzle. Because the barrel started with a film of WS on it, nothing sticks and this is sufficient to have the inside of the barrel looking like the day it came off the assembly line.

Plenty of other products are capable of this. I think once you have it down to totally clean, like-new metal it's important to use a quality lube/clp/whatever that prevents buildup from accumulating, which makes future cleaning super easy. I chose weaponshield but apparently frog lube is great at this same thing and lots of other products as well.

Hi Jeremy! Thanks for the info! I'll have to get some plastic brushes and look into WeaponShield too. I think I probably have a fair amount of accumulated gunk in the barrel. I've been shooting Federal bulk ammo and it's super dirty. Even after about 30 rounds, the muzzle end of the gun is noticeably dirty.

THANKS!

Horton Fenty
09-28-2012, 6:02 AM
Been using Hoppes #9 but the barrel doesn't seem to get totally clean in the grooves. I soak a patch, run it thru and let it sit for about maybe 30 minutes, then brass bore brush, then jag + patches. I've even tried soaking the barrel twice, but I still can't get the grooves clean.

Am I doing it wrong or is my brass brush already worn out? (Only used 5-6 times) it has never gotten the vote clean and always have felt pretty loose inside the barrel.

Your not doing anything wrong, Hoppes just takes a while.

XDJYo
09-28-2012, 5:22 PM
Your not doing anything wrong, Hoppes just takes a while.

Takes a while as in longer than an hour to soak or as in more scrubbing?

How long do you let bit soak or are there other bore cleaners you would suggest?

Also, I've seen those Otis cable things. Kind of slick way to keep your bore from getting scratched.

Thanks!