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View Full Version : First time stripping & cleaning my Ruger Mark III


Packy14
07-28-2012, 10:34 AM
Wow, that is the hardest field strip I've ever encountered, it took like an hour to figure out how to get it back together. The hammer being in the right position is the key. All in all, its a very sturdy gun, much more robust feeling than my buckmark which I love and have heavily modded.

I found some helpful videos from Ruger...they know this gun was engineered by monkeys, so they made these to help.

Disassemble: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LGEtudNJua4

Reassemble: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UeY9s2TYAOk&feature=relmfu

I'm debating the speedstrip kit, but I'm cheap and now that I figured it out, I'll probably just skip it.

P Funk
07-28-2012, 10:50 AM
I still need a rubber mallet to bang the upper/barrel away from the frame after 1000s of rounds and numerous strips. :facepalm:
Other than being a PIA to strip and clean, I love my Mark III.

Packy14
07-28-2012, 11:03 AM
oh yea, I definitely used a mallet repeatedly :) wanted to bonk myself in the head with it at one point I was so frustrated!

Tank 57
07-28-2012, 11:39 AM
My 20+ year old MKII is still so tight it takes a rubber mallet to seperate.I rarely do it.My MKIII seperates easily.

Both are solid good shooters.Once you master the assembly/takedown,I don't think there's a better all around .22LR pistol.MKIII needs some minor tweaks.Don't like mag disconnect or loaded chamber indicator.Both are easily removed.

kouye
07-30-2012, 6:31 PM
The 3.2 Speedstrip kit comes with a hammer and bushing for the mag. disconnect. Both are great mods.

Full Clip
07-30-2012, 6:33 PM
Yeah, I almost came to blow with myself the first time I opened up my Mark II.
Still a PITA.

bandit610
07-30-2012, 10:15 PM
Well, at least you didn't put the mag in the wrong way. The first time I took mine apart, I was having trouble with hooking the mainspring, and I saw in the manual that you have to pull the trigger. Well, the mag's gotta be in to pull the trigger. In my fiddly frustration I put that thing in about 3/4 of the way and it would not come out. :eek: I ended up forcing the mag down, removing the barrel, remove the mag's end cap and pushing it up and out. After all that I noticed they make a special tool, but I wanted to shoot it the next day. Didn't break anything, but I couldn't believe that huge design flaw. Other than that I love the pistol.

Twinhuey
07-31-2012, 9:58 AM
All good information! I am looking at a MKIII for my next toy

littlejake
07-31-2012, 10:49 AM
A 2 pound non-marring deadblow hammer works best for separating the upper from the lower. A mallet bounces and doesn't transfer energy well. A deadblow will efficiently transfer the energy.

I have two MKIIIs. And I have a Majestic Arms Speed Strip 3.2 kit sitting in my safe -- After getting it, I decided not to use it.

If you use the Speed Strip kit, you must use the hammer in the kit as the top-front of the hammer is contoured to permit the bolt to cam down the hammer during bolt insertion. The hammer is cocked and under mainsping tension at that point.

morrell
07-31-2012, 4:13 PM
Oh thank you soooo much for the links to the vids kenshinoro2007! I've been trying to get mine back together for more than a week now and was thinking of just selling the frelling thing for parts. Got it back together in about 1 minute now.

kouye
07-31-2012, 5:16 PM
A 2 pound non-marring deadblow hammer works best for separating the upper from the lower. A mallet bounces and doesn't transfer energy well. A deadblow will efficiently transfer the energy.

I have two MKIIIs. And I have a Majestic Arms Speed Strip 3.2 kit sitting in my safe -- After getting it, I decided not to use it.

If you use the Speed Strip kit, you must use the hammer in the kit as the top-front of the hammer is contoured to permit the bolt to cam down the hammer during bolt insertion. The hammer is cocked and under mainsping tension at that point.

That's interesting as the kits before 3.2 didn't have a hammer. Was this change made because of a problem?

littlejake
08-01-2012, 5:14 PM
That's interesting as the kits before 3.2 didn't have a hammer. Was this change made because of a problem?

I believe they do as the hammer will hit the bolt face if you try to insert the bolt with the hammer cocked. That's why the radiused top-front. I wanted to use a VQ hammer; and I wasn't going to try to grind that radius.

Also note they claim the 3.2 bushing improves trigger pull. The end of the 3.2 bushing that fits in the rectangular hole in the trigger link/disconnector bar is larger in diameter. 0.237" as compared to 0.217" as measured by me. This takes some of the pretravel out.

The thing that really turned me off to installing the kit is the need to drive out the staked pin that holds the bolt stop to the MSH to swap your factory bolt stop with the two piece MA bolt stop. Then you have to get that pin back in and stake it.

kouye
08-01-2012, 8:25 PM
Good points. I drove the pin out with a punch and tapped it back in, then center punched on each side. I'll monitor it for movement, but I don't see it escaping...although it could be catastrophic if it did...So far though I like it for quick cleaning of the barrel as it's still pretty new and the barrel stop still has to be pounded out with a hammer and soft punch.

littlejake
08-01-2012, 9:16 PM
I just put up with the disassembly process. I use a 1/4" brass pin punch and tap it with a small brass mallet to get the bolt stop pin out. Then the deadblow hammer to remove the upper.

I have heard of a few failures of that MSH to bolt stop pin with the MA kit. It's not really meant to take torque; and you torque it when using that allen key.

marcus_bervus
08-02-2012, 12:09 AM
just got my ruger MKIII 22/45 from the LGS, did a lot of research and trolling on different sites before biting the 22LR bug. The most dread that I had in buying ruger 22/45 is the numerous comment about the difficulty and pain of disassembly and assembly of a new 22/45. But since I am not one to shriek from any challenge nor fear pain (except paper cut... lol) I begun the tasked with vigor and mild pain medication lol....

after couple of mistakes and awkward cursing, I found the disassembly and assembly of Ruger 22/45 moderately easy, much easy than the first field stripping of my 1911. If you follow the instructions and illustration on youtube the disassembly and assembly of the Ruger 22/45 would not be a pain in the neck!!! :smartass::smartass::smartass:

onegtalon
08-02-2012, 11:39 PM
Welcome to the club!!!! Do it 10x more times and you'll get it under 5 mins...

Yea... I know... I used the mallet on my head a few times when I did the takedown the first couple of times....

Funbaby
08-03-2012, 8:02 AM
Just put a volquartsen trigger in mine. Taking the pistol and putting it back together was...challenging. I second a deadblow hammer...worked well.

kouye
08-03-2012, 9:47 AM
I think I got lucky with my Mk III Hunter. I was all set to whack the barrel with plastic hammer and ended up only tapping it when I was setting my aim. The barrel slid right off and I barely caught it.

Now, taking out the bolt stop deformed my plastic punch and took a lot of whacking with the hammer to get out, hence the MA quick strip kit installation.

trob
08-03-2012, 10:12 AM
I bought my MKII used, and it had a take-down kit already installed. It's pretty easy to get a basic cleaning with that, so I don't push it :D

Ive heard it gets easier the more you break them down. the parts loosen up a tad and go together a little smoother. Keep doin it.