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View Full Version : Learn to paint your selector/trademark markings


Solidsnake87
06-01-2007, 5:08 PM
I know there are a lot of people who desire to know how to fill in their selector markings. I tried to come up with some methods that involve things you can easily find around the house. The first method I list is an older idea I heard from a buddy. Obviously you can send your parts in for custom paint jobs or take lots of time to do it yourself with stencils or fine brushes. I'm just trying to share some really quick ways to produce some really fancy results.


Method 1.) Use crayons
Thats right, crayons! Just scribble away at your markings with white, red, green, orange,..........pink? Whatever color floats ur boat will work. Cake on the wax really thick and wipe off the excess. Re-apply as needed. The advantage of this method is its cheap and easy to touch-up or change coloring. They are also easy to remove. Do not use this method on thin lines or lines that do not go deeply into the receiver. This method is best for thick bold lettering or thin deep lettering/lines. Used on my AK pictured

Method 2.) White out
This method is messy but worth it if you want something more permanent then crayon. Slather over your trademarks and any writing you want to be colored white. Glob this stuff onto the lettering within reason. The more excess you add, the more time it will take to remove. After the white out has dried, take a CLP coated cloth and gently wipe down the receiver/parts. The CLP will dissolve the excess white out and leave very definitive white lines on your parts. Do not use this method on rough surfaces because it may be hard to remove the paint. Don't use this method on thin shallow lines either or the white out will just come out of the lines as you wipe it up. I used this method on my essential arms receivers and most of my stag. I say most because its near impossible to do the deer logo with this method. The antlers kept wiping off.


Method 3.) Acrylic Paint with Water
This is the fastest, simplest, and best method of painting ANYTHING of any shape or size. Its more permanent than crayon but lasts well and is a really pretty finish. Touching up is only required if it comes in contact with clp, ect.. Just place whatever color of paint u want in a bottle cap mix a small amount of water with the paint. Just a tiny bit of water is needed to dissolve the paint. Just take a brush and just barely touch whatever shape you hope to fill. The cohesive forces of the water will suck your paint right into the shape with near perfection. Take your girlfriend's hair drier and evaporate the water from the paint. Repeat the process only if the paint is not thick enough to your standards. Just take a finger and gently wipe off any excess paint. I used this on my stag logo and Magpul PRS stock.

Here are some pics.

http://img110.imageshack.us/img110/4476/logo1yy4.jpg
http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/1135/logo2df6.jpg
http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/1792/logo3lc4.jpg
http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/7805/logo4kk3.jpg

Tweak338
06-01-2007, 5:17 PM
Sticky?
how about a Sticky Forum section too..

Solidsnake87
06-01-2007, 5:21 PM
I don't know how to sticky a thread. sorry. :confused:

TonyNorCal
06-01-2007, 5:28 PM
I don't know how to sticky a thread. sorry. :confused:

A mod has to do it.

Thanks for the info...nice write-up and some nice weaponry there:)

savage1
06-01-2007, 5:44 PM
I use the crayons as well. I found if you fill in the lettering and really pack it in there, then take a lighter and heat the crayon in the lettering up just enough to turn it liquidy, but not boil it, then take the lighter away and hit it one wore time with the crayon it comes out perfect. Then just buff off what is on the actual lower from around the lettering. Heating it up seems to "suck" the crayon a little deeper into the stamping and also smmoths out the crayon wax as well. And if you don't like it, clp and a little elbow grease will take it right off.

double_action
06-01-2007, 5:55 PM
WD-40 works really well to remove crayons too.

tophatjones
06-01-2007, 5:59 PM
That is a very nice!

Parag
06-01-2007, 6:19 PM
'Course you realize that you no longer have evil black rifles. They're not-quite-as-evil mostly-black rifles now. Personally, I'm going to use *black* paint on mine.


-- Parag

Solidsnake87
06-01-2007, 6:54 PM
I'm going to use *black* paint on mine.


You do that.

adamsreeftank
06-01-2007, 10:44 PM
I think dark grey might be a bit more tacticool, but whatever floats your boat.

cobra198
06-01-2007, 10:48 PM
Awesome! Thanks for the guide. Great to know.

mr2.0
06-01-2007, 10:50 PM
Nail polish for mine, and a clear coat of nail polish on top of that.

Pryde
06-01-2007, 11:14 PM
Instead of acrylic paint, use Testor's model paint and wipe with acetone or simple green to get rid of off the excess. That way it won't run off when you get it wet or you get CLP on it.

Also you won't get the fuzzy white "halo" that the OP has around all his lettering.

xenophobe
06-01-2007, 11:15 PM
Other ideas

1) Standard crayons contain wax, and will impregnate into a receiver's finish, and you won't be able to get it out and it will give the anodization around the areas you filled in a waxy glossy look. I know, I did this to one of my receivers and highly regret it.

2) White out? Umm... not very easy to do. It'll dry and chip out when you're trying to clean it up to look nice. Once you have it done right, it holds decent though. It may take several tries to get it right.

3) Paint with water? A bit better than your previous two, but still a bit of a mess to deal with.


Best ways:
Temporary:
1) Oil Pastel Drawing Crayons. You rub them in, wipe them off with a cloth, and then wipe them down with CLP. If you don't like it, oil and a toothbrush removes it. Reapply. It will not just wipe out. Under $3 at an art supply store or Longs Drugs.

http://content.answers.com/main/content/wp/en/thumb/e/e2/250px-Oilpastel.JPG

Permanent:

2) If you want to use paint, go for the Testors Model Paint. Thin it as you would use for airburushing and use a syringe. Fill carefully. This is more permanent.

http://bumblebeeartsupply.com/products/images/airbrush/airbrush2596.jpg

+

http://www1.istockphoto.com/file_thumbview_approve/288749/2/istockphoto_288749_blood_syringe.jpg

A few of mine I've done with the oil pastels:
http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/2129/68spchj2.jpg

xenophobe
06-01-2007, 11:16 PM
http://img143.imageshack.us/img143/3010/hbar5mb.jpg
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/526/barretthg4.jpg
http://img148.imageshack.us/img148/7830/381.jpg
http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/1121/noveske0sw.jpg

Tweak338
06-01-2007, 11:18 PM
Xeno.. what the hell is with that blue hammer spring?

xenophobe
06-01-2007, 11:24 PM
Oh, that's a Colt target hammer spring.

Richard
06-01-2007, 11:34 PM
I used lacquer sticks...and you can get them in different colors.
Brownells has them....as well as other places

It's more of a specialized product....that is more specific for this task.


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/ro1964/lackersticks.jpg

roor1200
06-02-2007, 12:06 AM
:rofl: i used to do that crayon method on my "pager" a reallllly long time ago to fill in the MOTOROLA! lol yea i know, what are pagers now a days.... but like posted, just press down on them and fill in the cracks and take a lighter to kinda melt off the excess and wipe with a clean towel...... sorry for the echo/repeat.. had to just add my $.000002 :D

Solidsnake87
06-02-2007, 2:04 AM
deleted

xenophobe
06-02-2007, 5:43 PM
deleted

pklin1297
06-02-2007, 6:06 PM
deleted

pklin1297
06-05-2007, 7:35 AM
Just painted my markings with plastic model acrylic paint and it turned out great. I did not dilute the paint and just applied to the markings without worrying about painting around it, then about 5 minutes after the application, I wiped it down with Simple Green and the paint outside the markings came right off without removing the paint in the markings. Good method to try.

sardaukar
07-11-2007, 8:50 PM
With crayon.

http://img169.imageshack.us/img169/746/img1065biz4.jpg

http://img169.imageshack.us/img169/7351/img1075bwf4.jpg

easy
07-25-2007, 6:38 PM
lacquer stick...

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Finishing_supplies/Repair_and_touchup/2/Lacquer_Stick_Finish_Repair.html

BDH
09-19-2007, 3:02 PM
The most reliable item I've used for many years is a simple white China marker. They can be found at most office supply places, including the big box office supply businesses. They are usually offered in white and red.

HTH

Bruce

Applehaus21st
09-26-2007, 7:43 PM
Very nice collection mate!

PanzerAce
09-27-2007, 7:20 AM
fwiw: if you take a hair dryer to the crayon for a little bit, you get a more even filling.

StAtiC
10-11-2007, 11:15 AM
I used the oil pastels and they worked great. I will prolly change the green logo back to white.


http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/64/cimg1917xz4.jpg
http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/943/cimg1923ru0.jpg

BDH
10-15-2007, 9:18 PM
http://www.memorableplaces.com/m1garand/whitelettering/whiteletteringstep1.html

Bruce

roor1200
10-19-2007, 12:59 AM
a free crayon offer from toys r us valid only from oct 18-19.:eek:

http://slickdeals.net/?pno=10485&lno=1&afsrc=1

Ech0Sierra
12-25-2007, 7:41 AM
Does this work on any blued gun? I have a bunch of white pastels and a Beretta 92. :D

Josh3239
01-28-2008, 4:45 PM
I know this is an old thread and has pretty much died, but I just wanted to throw in my experience for anyone thinking of doing this.

I went with the Testor's Acrylic paint and I highly suggest you DON'T go that route. It was messy and was pretty much a headache. It wasted a lot of time and $3 on the paint.

What I do suggest is Crayons. That made everything much easier, cleaner, and quicker. Just scribble the crayons on, wipe away with your finger the excess crayon, then use CLP and a napkin or tissue to wipe away the tougher excess and if you want take a match to the crayon to get it to melt into the engraving.

Nick5811
01-29-2008, 11:02 PM
I tried the crayon and testor's paint methods (minus syringe) to mixed results.

Perhaps it's due to the shallow markings on my lower, but the testors paint/simple green worked better than the crayon method.

Mineral spirits is awesome for removing EVERYTHING from your lower (carbon, paint, oil, grease, etc.) Don't try to put the paint over the crayon, because it doesn't seem to work.

I think I'm gonna try to find a good OD pastel crayon thing and try it again.

Silverfish
02-24-2008, 1:25 PM
Thanks for the info,

Just finished my first build and stole my kids crayolas. Thanks for getting me in trouble. :D



8236

Hopi
02-24-2008, 1:55 PM
I used red billiards chalk....very easy to use
http://i339.photobucket.com/albums/n446/equianous/Shane.jpg

Silverfish
03-21-2008, 8:38 PM
2nd build under development.......



8778

lockednloaded
03-26-2008, 11:58 AM
does anyone know what to use to remove the paint?

Ballistic043
04-10-2008, 7:40 AM
what kind of paint?


usually a dental pick, solvent, heat will take it off

Olav
04-30-2008, 7:46 PM
I'll contribute:

I used nail polish (my wife has an assortment to choose from). Fill up the roll mark and wipe it off. Remove excess with nail polish remover.

Seems to work well for me.

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc212/olava1/ar15/IMG_0621.jpg

Mad Geek
04-30-2008, 11:35 PM
what kind of paint?


usually a dental pick, solvent, heat will take it off

I used white automotive engine paint on a pistol slide, and the first time I used an aerosol cleaner (Gun Scrubber) the paint came right out.

Bruce3
05-19-2008, 3:37 PM
Has anyone been able to do the stag logo with crayons?

tenbrook
06-12-2008, 6:08 AM
Has anyone been able to do the stag logo with crayons?

DONE.....its easy, go for it!

cvela
06-15-2008, 5:29 AM
Testors' enamel markers (modeling aisle at wal-mart) work well. I like many prefer plain receivers, but my wife and daughter both NEED the Fire and SAFE color coded. So our 22lr AR's are now colored up for them. The enamel paint has held up great to cleaners, but some did find intself into fine machine pores upon application. Not a big deal, but I notice it, but Im just picky.

Bruce3
07-08-2008, 12:24 PM
The most reliable item I've used for many years is a simple white China marker. They can be found at most office supply places, including the big box office supply businesses. They are usually offered in white and red.

HTH

Bruce

+1 on the china markers! i did mine yesterday with great results. try going to your local art supply store before going to office supply stores. you can pick up individual sticks for cheaper at the art stores. a red and white stick cost me grand total of $1.40 which included tax :D

NorCal E
07-19-2008, 11:22 PM
How do the crayons hold up in the heat??? It gets kinda warm around here and it seems like the crayon might just melt off.

Toolbox X
08-21-2008, 8:29 AM
Please move this thread to the Gunsmithing & How To forum.

ocabj
09-16-2008, 5:59 AM
I use white China pencil for Garand receiver markings, ie serial number, rear sight hashed. Never tried it on an AR.

DANGERCLOSE
09-16-2008, 9:10 AM
+1 on the lacquer sticks. made specifically for it. works great.

Toolbox X
09-16-2008, 9:14 AM
Please move this thread to the Gunsmithing & How To forum.

This thread has absolutely no business (being sticky'd of all things!) in the rifleman's forum.

HARLEY VATO
09-27-2008, 10:01 AM
THIS IS AN EXTREMELY HELPFUL THREAD

FrontlinePs.10
12-06-2008, 9:00 PM
Other ideas

Permanent:

2) If you want to use paint, go for the Testors Model Paint. Thin it as you would use for airburushing and use a syringe. Fill carefully. This is more permanent.

http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/2129/68spchj2.jpg

Nice tip, but where do you get the syringe with such a fine tip?

totenkopf
12-06-2008, 9:14 PM
you can get a syringe with a fine tip at an auto body supply store. they make them for touch up on cars. the one i am thinking of comes with a tiny brush on the end of it. as you push out the material, it coats the brush so you can add just a little at a time.

GM4spd
12-18-2008, 4:08 PM
I have my own way for my garand. I have to remove the whole rear sight, Testor's white model paint is the only thing I have ever used,you do have to have a plan,Pete

http://www.fototime.com/A80BDE5DE59B5A1/standard.jpg

Joe
01-20-2009, 3:30 PM
I'm going to try this out this weekend with Testors model paint. I'll post pics when I'm done

sreiter
04-15-2009, 7:32 PM
never tried it, but a grease pencil might work

L6584
06-25-2009, 12:30 PM
Cool Ideas Thank you

Luna
07-25-2009, 1:37 PM
I didnt see it anywhere on this thread but I used oil pastels similar to grease pencils on mine. They worked perfectly. I found they worked better than Crayons because they did not leave any residue. Crayons left a bit of a haze especially with white. The grease pencils are also less prone to melting if they heat up. You can get this stuff at any art or craft store. Sorry about the bad pics.

uracan
09-23-2009, 9:58 PM
nice upgrade

Cokebottle
11-07-2009, 3:22 AM
Lacquer Stik here
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=7778/Product/LACQUER_STIK_reg_

The last 3 digits of the serial number are intentionally smudged in MSpaint, not on the gun.
http://personal.linkline.com/rlockyer/XD9/DSCN1125.JPG
http://personal.linkline.com/rlockyer/XD9/DSCN1126.JPG
http://personal.linkline.com/rlockyer/XD9/DSCN1127.JPG

JBS
11-08-2009, 7:40 PM
Some kinda' hobby shop paint I found in the garage....That ain't flash...That's BLING.

Cokebottle
11-08-2009, 8:21 PM
Some kinda' hobby shop paint I found in the garage....That ain't flash...That's BLING.
Very nice. It's just yellow enough to look really classy.

SixPointEight
11-08-2009, 9:29 PM
so I'm testing this out on my airsoft m15. what color do you wanna see an armalite logo? white like the rest of the leters, blue like thier logo, or red?

Cokebottle
11-08-2009, 9:33 PM
Blue or red.
To much white looks tacky on an AR lower.

AndrewMendez
12-30-2009, 9:32 PM
This is the Method I used:
I bought some Acrylic paint from Micheal's Arts and Crafts for 5 bucks, or you can use one of their "50% of coupons on any item" that they come out with every week (Join the mailing list).
First things first, clean the area with a degreaser to remove any wax or dirt from the are, and let it air dry.
I then used some paper masking tape to quickly cover the areas that I didn't want to paint, and to minimize clean up afterwords.
I squeezed out a tiny bit of the paint onto a toothpick. Instead of using the tip of the toothpick, I actually used the side of it to fill in the lines. To make it even, you should go over it a couple times. You will be able to see what areas need more paint. Let it sit for a couple minutes, its fine if the paint is on other parts of the lower, it cleans off easily with any house hold cleaner. With your clean finger, gently smear any paint that's still not dry. Then take a paper towel and spray the cleaner onto in, and wipe any excess paint off. Remove the paper tape, and clean anything that still needs to be cleaned...That's pretty much it! I still cant believe how well they came out with minimal time and effort.
Pics coming shortly...

glock_this
12-30-2009, 9:39 PM
for my 3rd AR, I just used crayons as I always do

AndrewMendez
12-30-2009, 9:51 PM
Sorry I didn't take pics during, but I did not think I would have something worthy of posting on CG!!;)

This is the paint I used
http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/bbiggs_/103_7810.jpg

This is what it looked like after:
http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/bbiggs_/103_7805.jpg

And here are both of my girls
http://i367.photobucket.com/albums/oo119/bbiggs_/103_7803.jpg

If you have any addt questions feel free to shoot me a PM!

AndrewMendez
12-30-2009, 9:54 PM
for my 3rd AR, I just used crayons as I always do

I have seen this done before, and it left an odd film that would not come off. Did you have this same problem??

glock_this
12-30-2009, 9:59 PM
I have seen this done before, and it left an odd film that would not come off. Did you have this same problem??

yeah, there is a bit of a film. but, it never bothered me really. crayon can be done so quickly & cheaply, like a minute or so per SAFE and FIRE - that is the key for me. I have one that is nearly 5 years old.

as for it "would not come off" - I find that hard to believe, I just not have tried harder than rubbing with a rag.. I suppose some sort of cleaner would work if I tried.

AndrewMendez
12-30-2009, 10:14 PM
yeah, there is a bit of a film. but, it never bothered me really. crayon can be done so quickly & cheaply, like a minute or so per SAFE and FIRE - that is the key for me. I have one that is nearly 5 years old.

as for it "would not come off" - I find that hard to believe, I just not have tried harder than rubbing with a rag.. I suppose some sort of cleaner would work if I tried.

Do you have pics of it? I was tempted to try the Crayons, I actually was looking for a "high quality" crayon, when I stumbled across the paint.

SixPointEight
12-30-2009, 10:29 PM
I use oil pastels, on my Mossberg and my airsoft AR, didn't leave behind anything. Also did a friends, P226. So I would vote pastel over Crayon

glock_this
12-31-2009, 7:36 AM
Do you have pics of it? I was tempted to try the Crayons, I actually was looking for a "high quality" crayon, when I stumbled across the paint.

see 2 links in my signature.. you can kind of see it on both. I did it on my new AR pistol and will post pictures after I receive the final piece I need to complete the build next week :)

inbox485
04-01-2010, 5:44 PM
I've used automotive touch-up paint pens for my XD-45. Has worked well so far.

Joe
04-01-2010, 6:16 PM
I used testors model paint. Worked fine.

tast101
04-18-2010, 8:57 AM
My little contribution. Used Testors:
Insignia Red FS31136 - 1/2 oz. Bottle
Insignia White FS17875 - 1/2 oz. Bottle
Dark Earth (ANA617) (F) MM - 1/2 oz. Bottle

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4027/4527515702_3334c83386_b.jpg

misterjake
05-07-2010, 9:10 PM
Just painted my new receiver tonight:

I used testors enamel.

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c311/rabidus_/editedgun.png?t=1273295381

and the back:

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c311/rabidus_/IMG_1508.jpg?t=1273295419

SixPointEight
05-07-2010, 9:35 PM
Just painted my new receiver tonight:

I used testors enamel.

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c311/rabidus_/editedgun.png?t=1273295381

and the back:

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c311/rabidus_/IMG_1508.jpg?t=1273295419

Using the thinning method with a small brush/toothpick? I've been debating doing that for something more permanent on my AR. I just used oil pastels because it was what I had available.

misterjake
05-07-2010, 10:59 PM
Using the thinning method with a small brush/toothpick? I've been debating doing that for something more permanent on my AR. I just used oil pastels because it was what I had available.

No, just slap on the paint thick on the lettering, let it sit for 20 seconds, then take a folded flat paper towel, apply Rem-oil on it, then wipe off the excess.

killshot44
05-08-2010, 10:04 PM
+1 on Testors paint. I drip the paint in with a toothpick and let it run over the edges. Then let it dry overnight (that way the thicker paint in the grooves can dry) THEN I take a flat napkin (don't want anything fuzzy/nappy) and using Testors Thinner on the napkin, and CAREFULLY wipe across the whole image in one direction only. Keep doing that with a clean piece of the napkin until all the excess paint is gone and only the filled in image remains.
See the picture in post #75 above for a good example...

fred40
07-30-2010, 4:28 PM
Back in the day we had some paint sticks called mean streaks. I wonder if there still around.

stilly
08-18-2010, 7:29 PM
'Course you realize that you no longer have evil black rifles. They're not-quite-as-evil mostly-black rifles now. Personally, I'm going to use *black* paint on mine.


-- Parag

0o0o0o0o0!

Do they have a reflective black paint? THAT would be tacticool!

rimfire78
08-18-2010, 7:42 PM
I used the acrylic method. Worked great.

http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/rimfire78/close-up.jpg

http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad194/rimfire78/UBRnew.jpg

Poppy83
12-28-2010, 7:22 PM
I got motivated and color-filled my first lower. I used a medium gray (should have gone a little darker, but tired of it at the moment). I used acrylic paint, applied it liberally over the marking I wanted filled, and almost immediately wiped off the excess with a paper towel with a little Rem-Oil. It worked extremely well for the "Safe" and "Fire", but I'm not satisfied with the roll mark.
The roll mark has VERY shallow engravings and I'm pretty sure this is causing me the problems. I'll keep it as is for the time being, but you can tell, especially with the "S" in "Sun". Hmmmm...any suggestions?

*I'm too lazy to edit the serial number and too lazy to get up and put a piece of tape over it so I just used my finger...

http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/xPoppy83/IMG_1217.jpg?t=1293596304

AndrewMendez
12-28-2010, 7:37 PM
I got motivated and color-filled my first lower. I used a medium gray (should have gone a little darker, but tired of it at the moment). I used acrylic paint, applied it liberally over the marking I wanted filled, and almost immediately wiped off the excess with a paper towel with a little Rem-Oil. It worked extremely well for the "Safe" and "Fire", but I'm not satisfied with the roll mark.
The roll mark has VERY shallow engravings and I'm pretty sure this is causing me the problems. I'll keep it as is for the time being, but you can tell, especially with the "S" in "Sun". Hmmmm...any suggestions?

*I'm too lazy to edit the serial number and too lazy to get up and put a piece of tape over it so I just used my finger...

http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/xPoppy83/IMG_1217.jpg?t=1293596304

Let it dry completely, then give it a once over.

Poppy83
12-28-2010, 9:32 PM
Let it dry completely, then give it a once over.

I did and went back over the rollmark. It is much crisper, but it is a pain to get out the paint that is in the letters. Patience, I guess. I am happy with it overall, though. Low key, but still not perfect...BAH.

AndrewMendez
12-29-2010, 1:28 AM
I did and went back over the rollmark. It is much crisper, but it is a pain to get out the paint that is in the letters. Patience, I guess. I am happy with it overall, though. Low key, but still not perfect...BAH.

I used a thumb tac to clear out the old paint when I redid the second one. Kinda a pain, but it looks good.

Jonesy72
01-10-2011, 7:37 AM
Really happy with the way mine came out. Roomate did his as well. Thank you SolidSanke

Ibgreezy
02-16-2011, 7:02 AM
Jonesy72, what method did you use? Thats sweet!

ironhiide
02-17-2011, 11:13 AM
Nothing more than crayola crayon and rem oil to clean it up.


http://img641.imageshack.us/img641/9306/p2170169aa.jpg (http://img641.imageshack.us/i/p2170169aa.jpg/)

JimA77
02-25-2011, 5:57 PM
Jonesy72, what method did you use? Thats sweet!

I'm jonesy's roomate. We used solidsnake87's 3rd option. Went to Michael's and picked up a paint set and some brushes.


Method 3.) Acrylic Paint with Water
This is the fastest, simplest, and best method of painting ANYTHING of any shape or size. Its more permanent than crayon but lasts well and is a really pretty finish. Touching up is only required if it comes in contact with clp, ect.. Just place whatever color of paint u want in a bottle cap mix a small amount of water with the paint. Just a tiny bit of water is needed to dissolve the paint. Just take a brush and just barely touch whatever shape you hope to fill. The cohesive forces of the water will suck your paint right into the shape with near perfection. Take your girlfriend's hair drier and evaporate the water from the paint. Repeat the process only if the paint is not thick enough to your standards. Just take a finger and gently wipe off any excess paint. I used this on my stag logo and Magpul PRS stock.

'ol shooter
03-09-2011, 8:36 PM
I guess i'm pretty much a Form follows Function guy, being I don't see the point for: 1. Pretty paint in the stamping of guns, and 2. White wall tires on cars, but hey that's just me. I did paint in the numbers on my Wilson Combat mags though, so I can tell which one is which, but that is Form following Function.

strongpoint
04-16-2011, 10:32 PM
photos attached; used acrylic paint. thanks, OP and subsequent, for the ideas and advice to make my first build look nicer.

a few things i found out:

* the acrylic is easier to use if it's applied in a watery mode. you wind up using less paint overall (just let it run into the grooves), and the surrounding area winds up with less paint caked on once it dries.

* accordingly, use as small a brush as you can manage for getting the paint into those grooves. again, less initial mess means less to clean up.

* if the surfaces around the engraving have been recently treated with solvent/cleaner/oil/CLP/whatever (i used hoppe's), the sheen left behind seems to make the paint much easier to wipe off.

* water didn't seem to do the job of dissolving the paint on the surface, but a patch dampened with solvent did the trick. don't soak the patch, or the solvent will run into the engraving -- you'll wind up wiping them clean and starting over.

http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=94336&d=1303021702

http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=94337&d=1303021744

scion
04-20-2011, 6:12 PM
Thanks for this great sticky! I used the acrylic method after raiding my sisters art supplies. I just used a 2:1 paint to water mixture and applied using a bamboo skewer..the kind for kabobs. The needle point allowed me to minimize the mess. I allowed the paint to dry completely even if I applied too much and just rubbed the excess off after dry with a paper towel since acrylic likes to come off in large flakes after drying as opposed to wiping when wet. Any excess that wouldn't come off was easily removed with a q tip and some nail polish remover.

monorailboy
07-04-2011, 3:49 PM
Brownells Lacquer Stix...simply the best for the job. "Blast of Color"

105123

awall919
07-25-2011, 6:56 AM
SOLIDSNAKE i'm diggin your stag, also really diggin the JD machine logo in white. I used the crayon method on one of my glocks with good results but my Beretta 96 doesn't like it at all. Ill have to give the paint/h20 method a try. Thanks for the info.

Shepherds_Hook_47
08-29-2011, 2:27 AM
Those are neat guys...But

What about krylon? lol

que45
09-18-2011, 3:44 AM
Great info... Going to hook up the Saiga with some color

TROYSD
09-27-2011, 1:12 PM
what is clp

Yerman
10-27-2011, 7:49 PM
So I decided to give this a try and didn't like it. I tried a crayola crayon first then tried the lacquer pens from Brownells.

Now I have a white haze on my lower that will not go away. I tried removing it by scrubbing with a nylon brush and Hoppes, then CLP, then Remoil and nothing will get rid of the slight white haze.

I wish I never tried this...

Any ideas how to get it off?

BTW, it's very faint but noticeable. Here is a pic...

http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q173/bwurfel/IMG_0839.jpg

You can see it over the Stag logo and around the selector marks, etc...

Yerman
11-04-2011, 4:28 PM
Bueller.......bueller.......

inbox485
11-04-2011, 4:52 PM
Acetone followed by oil.

Yerman
11-05-2011, 8:36 AM
Acetone hu...Thanks. I'll give it a try. Won't harm the finish hu???

ironhiide
11-05-2011, 8:45 AM
I removed the excess crayon with rem oil and a little elbow grease, cleaned up real easy. And it works easier if the lower if seperated from the upper too.

chibitodd
12-02-2011, 9:38 PM
I used craolla on my glock and its great. On my 700 not so good. Small writing it works bigger gaps I will try somethingg else

EODWRX
01-02-2012, 8:09 PM
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y245/synernut/photobucket-1730-1325565236070.jpg

Ezekiel2000
01-13-2012, 5:02 PM
Did mine using testors paint. Top pic is from about a year and a half ago when I first did it, second pic was from tonight. White paint could use some touch up maybe, but overall, holding up great!

http://img194.imageshack.us/img194/3205/closebear2.jpg
http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/5852/dsc0462u.jpg

sandeggo
01-18-2012, 12:42 PM
Well I'll be damned. I've been looking high and low for calguns lowers with it painted just like that. I have my lower ordered and had planned to paint mine just like this. Looks good!

ErikTheRed
02-15-2012, 3:12 AM
3 pages of discussion and advice on this topic and not one single video showing the process?

Ezekiel2000
02-16-2012, 9:56 PM
Did you ever get around to it Sandeggo?

Erik, we've been saving the honor for you, can't wait to see your masterpiece and more importantly the video you come up with documenting the process :)

sandeggo
02-24-2012, 5:23 AM
Did you ever get around to it Sandeggo?

Erik, we've been saving the honor for you, can't wait to see your masterpiece and more importantly the video you come up with documenting the process :)

Just finished it a couple days ago. Painted the receivers fde with dura coat, then painted the roll marks with testors model paint from michaels. Used the plastic toothpicks that have dental floss on one end. Cleaned the excess off with nail polish remover and patches. One thing to note, I first tried to wipe the excess off rubbing hard, if you rub real lightly it comes off cleaner and doesn't spread. The red color was the worst at spreading. So I took a mechanical pencil with a white eraser and buffed the red smears off. Not the best pics but you get the idea. It was my first time painting a gun and roll marks.
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a376/00s-ten00/73a1d938.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a376/00s-ten00/f5f9666b.jpg
Here's the whole rifle
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a376/00s-ten00/00bcb8b9.jpg

Don the savage
03-30-2012, 5:17 PM
I used a Sharpie Poster paint pen on my Remington R-25 which is Mossy Oak which makes the roll marks almost unreadable. Not as bold as some but I think that is a function of the basecoat-there is a lot going on.
http://i895.photobucket.com/albums/ac151/dcayer190/24081f6d.jpg

NYRangerfan2
06-05-2012, 2:30 PM
looks great ...thx for the info!!! I will give it a go!

AK all day
06-05-2012, 4:07 PM
Crayons win. :)


http://i1063.photobucket.com/albums/t501/DillonJury/009-5.jpg

Thanks for the tutorial. i had heard of this before, but the pictures made me take the plunge. Crayons, a blow dryer, and a microfiber towel!

daNkiest
07-28-2012, 3:34 PM
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e120/dankschick/photo-2.jpg

monorailboy
08-13-2012, 12:39 PM
or have Blast of Color in Sacramento do it !!! Incredible work !!!

Crayon looks good until you go to clean the rifle. Blast of Color uses professional products that last !!

the86d
08-13-2012, 1:24 PM
So I decided to give this a try and didn't like it...
Any ideas how to get it off?

99% rubbing alcohol takes thick gloss paint off of walls without wishing to, try that if the other suggestions don't work...

monorailboy
09-09-2012, 4:43 PM
Take it to a professional

robojet
09-09-2012, 4:55 PM
Anyone know of a professional in southern california?

engi
09-09-2012, 5:33 PM
These look great. Perhaps I'll give it a whirl.

Ezekiel2000
09-10-2012, 8:41 PM
Take it to a professional

Mine (paint, not crayon) look great years later. Sure, the very minimal cost I spent on the testors paint opposed to what a "professional" would have cost was nice, but the other good part is I know it was done by myself and done right.

The only 2 reasons I can understand for someone to farm this out is if they have shaky hands or simply would rather not spend their own time doing it. It's really not too difficult.

monorailboy
10-05-2012, 8:02 PM
172779

Bamfak47
10-14-2012, 11:30 AM
I did the crayon thing and it looks great but I do have a white glossy hazy receiver now. Does anyone know how to remove this white glossy finnish that is now on my receiver?

Fixmy59bug
11-11-2012, 3:11 PM
Wow.

Thank you very much for this idea. I just finished my XD9 and XD40.

I used Reflex Silver touch up paint from a Vw I used to have and it worked great.

Even had the clear coat touch up to protect and seal it.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v320/fixmy59bug/0DA7234F-2D78-4D62-87DF-DDAA12619B92-6263-000007FEC973F060.jpg

champion510
12-03-2012, 5:12 PM
Very informative thread.
Thank you for sharing.

mrminnesota66
12-04-2012, 8:27 PM
Great tips--thank you. I'm bald so I don't have a hair dryer to dry the water for method 3! Wait, my daughter has one I can use.

Coolguy101
01-04-2013, 7:39 AM
The problem with paint sticks, crayons, acrylic paint, and the like is they will all come off when they come in contact with cleaning solvents.

I find it almost impossible to thoroughly clean my gun without somehow getting cleaning solvent on my painted areas I don't want to come off, and I had to keep touching them up.

I went to hobby shops and craft stores and asked where I could get paint that wouldn't come off with solvent, and after I got the puzzled looks out of the way they finally directed me to a solution of the most durable color paint around.

For a true "permanent" finish, you need to use automotive paint, and by automotive I mean the paint they use to paint your car. It can take some work to get some, but I found by going to a body shop where they paint cars they had the paint I needed. By applying a clear coat on top of that paint, it really helps ensure that your paint won't come off. It can be sort of shiny,but no shinier than a normal acrylic paint.

There are epoxy paints that may be even more durable, but they really aren't suited for this application. Car paint is the best IMO.

JDay
02-18-2013, 7:26 PM
Method #2 is much easier with a Whiteout pen.

couch
03-05-2013, 5:14 PM
Has anyone had any luck doing this to raw aluminum?

I need to engrave some polished parts and black letter fill them. Other that. The bare aluminum in the engraving, there is no anodize, primer, paint, etc for this to stick to. I need a permanent marking method for these parts. None firearm related but very similar process.

couch
03-14-2013, 3:27 PM
Finished up the parts last week. Engraved the parts .005" deep with a .010" diameter ball endmill. Ended up using a fine Sharpie paint pen. Cleaned the parts really well then filled the engraving. Let it dry overnight then lapped the parts on a granite plate with worn 600 paper. Very happy with the results.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c193/kenspaulding/Nigel_GShock_Watch_Sprocket_HiRes_zpsfca2839c.jpg
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c193/kenspaulding/Nigel_GShock_Watch_Griffen_HiRes_zps666f4532.jpg
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c193/kenspaulding/Nigel_GShock_Watch_Limited_HiRes_zps245c5fbd.jpg
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c193/kenspaulding/Nigel_GShock_Watch_Signature_HiRes_zps3d126d05.jpg

These were a limited run for a collaboration with G-Shock Watches.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c193/kenspaulding/Nigel_GShock_Watch_HiRes_zps57bdc5dc.jpg

Ldarshay
06-30-2013, 7:53 PM
Quickest way I removed china pen from receiver since I wanted to go back to the "Black Rifle" look:
Old tooth brush dipped in some Hoppes No.9
Scrubbed it up, and wiped clean with rem oil patch!

Literally took but 2 minutes maybe! After trying for 30 relentless minutes with a thumb tac which was still leaving residue I thought of this! Just a heads up for anyone who gets tired of it

shda5582
12-10-2013, 8:18 PM
What I wound up using was Testors Enamel paint that you can pickup at any hobby store.

I painted the grooves, then while still wet, wiped down with a rag with some 70% alcohol to get the excess paint off. After that, 10 minutes in front of a space heater to dry up the paint and then (carefully) wiped down the metal with some Hoppes on a rag. This technique worked really well to keep the paint in the markings and they came out VERY well. Will post pics later.

Sticky
12-17-2013, 5:42 PM
What I wound up using was Testors Enamel paint that you can pickup at any hobby store.

I painted the grooves, then while still wet, wiped down with a rag with some 70% alcohol to get the excess paint off. After that, 10 minutes in front of a space heater to dry up the paint and then (carefully) wiped down the metal with some Hoppes on a rag. This technique worked really well to keep the paint in the markings and they came out VERY well. Will post pics later.
I've always done mine that way, works fine, except I don't use a space heater, just give it a bit of time to flash dry, do a very gentle partial cleanup and then let it dry overnight and give it a good cleanup with alcohol. I use a toothpick to 'paint' engravings. Testors has tons of colors to choose from!

Here are a few pics of some of mine that have been done..

Before pics of an AR-15 lower
http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u107/IGluIt4U/bang/IMG950755crop_zpscf1ef438.jpg

http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u107/IGluIt4U/bang/IMG9526262_zps68fe0ebd.jpg

http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u107/IGluIt4U/bang/IMG950654_zps39d15f01.jpg

and some after coloring pics...
http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u107/IGluIt4U/bang/DSC00694800x428_zps6f1ac25a.jpg

http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u107/IGluIt4U/bang/DSC00691small_zpsf182387d.jpg

http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u107/IGluIt4U/bang/DSC00693800x482_zps13852eca.jpg

http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u107/IGluIt4U/bang/DSC00692800x328_zps9dfdaf60.jpg

http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u107/IGluIt4U/bang/DSC00685800x529_zps58b901cf.jpg

Firefight
02-16-2015, 9:58 PM
Tagged

benjamac
06-30-2015, 6:43 PM
I just recently used oil pastels on my rifles with a coating of clp afterwards- it worked out pretty nicely- like im 95% satisfied with the results, and the effort was pretty minimal. I have a few spots where the color is "shallow" or "thin", but they are only noticed by the most scrutinizing eye. From grainy parts of the pastel, I guess. But overall, looks great. would post pics, but im ****ing lazy.