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View Full Version : FAL Gunsmith/Armorer somewhere around here in Calli?


insin
06-11-2012, 10:43 PM
Hello all,
This was posted by myself over at falfiles, but since I think I might need to a good FAL gunsmith, I figured it would be better to ask the local guys. Soo... Have any of you guys dealt with a decent "FAL guy" that might be able to help me with my problem.

Hello all,

Does anyone know of someone that I could ship my FAL to in order for them to take a look at it, repair whats wrong with it, and get it running? I've been trying to get this thing running off and on over the last few years and it still is giving me problems. Its getting better, but its not 100% yet.

It fires a single shot perfectly, shoots true, ejects, and cycles the next round, but does not reset the trigger. Gas plug is set correctly on A and 2.5 for the setting. When I was at the range I thought changing the setting would reduce the amount of gas vented, thus possibly getting the action to cycle and reset the trigger better, but I did not remember what direction to turn it. I was frustrated because I thought I fixed this problem last season, but I guess not. I was shooting some SA surplus that I had, but I figured that this shouldn't have been a problem. Turning the dial to a lower number is looking a little stiff. Almost like I might need to get a pair of pliers to get some leverage, turning by hand is not getting it to a lower number (ie 1-2). maybe a little oil.

The last thing I did was swap out the gas tube. A gentlemen from the reno area was kind enough to help me out and try to trouble shoot this problem last spring or so (maybe 2 years ago) and narrowed the problem down to a hairline cracked gas tube. I got my parts kit from gunpartsguy. He seemed to think that was my problem, but he couldn't find a new gas tubes in his pile of parts. He gave me the best one he had, but perhaps I should try a new one altogether. Does anyone know where I can pick up a good replacement? DSArms has them for 20$, but is there another reputable place either cheaper or the same price? Anyone have one for sale that isn't cracked like the one I had to replace?

I have been working on this FAL since 2007. Since then it never really ran right, but I still love it more then my PTR. Truthfully, once I get the FAL up and running, I can finally sell the PTR.

Thanks for the help/advise

Robidouxs
06-11-2012, 10:47 PM
Can you separate your upper from the lower and test the trigger? Can you get the trigger to reset properly?

Pryde
06-12-2012, 3:09 AM
It sounds like your problem is your trigger group and not your gas. Usually when your rifle is undergassed, it will not fully cycle and the round will hang up before chambering. What you are describing is what happens when you have the selector set to "auto" when there is no autosear in the gun. My guess is that either one of your lower parts is out of spec and not catching the hammer or you are missing a pin or spring somewhere in your lower.

Where are you located, I have a lot of HTS parts you could try out or I could loan you a lower so you can swap and see if the upper will function...

Also can you please give details as to the kind of gun it is? What type of receiver and barrel.

crazychinaman
06-12-2012, 6:45 AM
It sounds like your selecter .What kind of Fal ?metric ,inch ,Isrealis.?where are you located.?

Richard Erichsen
06-12-2012, 8:02 AM
A trigger pack not resetting after the hammer has been cocked and the round locked in the chamber has nothing to do with your gas setting. The gas did it's job if the weapon cycled and the bolt really is locked in battery. A manual test is needed:

1) Remove the magazine, clear the chamber, visually confirm empty as usual
2) Remove top cover so you can observe the action
3) Pull charging handle to the rear and release
4) Point weapon in a safe direction, set selector switch to FIRE and pull the trigger without releasing it - you should hear the hammer hit the firing pin
5) Pull charging handle again and release while still holding trigger back
6) Release the trigger - You should feel the sear reset with a small bump against your finger and an audible "click"
7) Pull the trigger - you should hear the hammer hit the firing pin

If the first trigger pull releases the hammer, but the reset never happens, you've got to strip your trigger group apart. Entreprise is local (here in SoCal) and this is one task they may actually be up for if you are not comfortable working on the trigger pack yourself. Depending on your location, it's probably best to meet the gunsmith over there face to face rather than mailing it and make an appointment so you can be there when its done, get a detailed explanation, a quote for any needed parts and time and make sure you do not leave the firearm with them! If you stay there, they will get it done and probably do a fine job for a reasonable fee and a couple of hours of your time.

R

victorr
06-12-2012, 8:16 AM
If you're in Socal, call Entreprise Arms 626.962-8712

Richard Erichsen
06-12-2012, 8:23 AM
If you're in Socal, call Entreprise Arms 626.962-8712

The last paragraph above suggested this to the OP, but with specific conditions.

R

thedrickel
06-12-2012, 9:00 AM
Yeah, it sounds like hammer follow. Do you have a Falcon HTS in the lower? If you separate the lower, reset the hammer, flick the top of the hammer down (towards the lower) with your thumb and I bet it releases. If you are in the Bay Area I can check it out for you.

ETA - HBR on the Files has a good point, is your selector set to semi or full?

1911su16b870
06-12-2012, 9:02 AM
I am in Gardena if you want me to take a look...

insin
06-18-2012, 10:34 PM
A trigger pack not resetting after the hammer has been cocked and the round locked in the chamber has nothing to do with your gas setting. The gas did it's job if the weapon cycled and the bolt really is locked in battery. A manual test is needed:

1) Remove the magazine, clear the chamber, visually confirm empty as usual
2) Remove top cover so you can observe the action
3) Pull charging handle to the rear and release
4) Point weapon in a safe direction, set selector switch to FIRE and pull the trigger without releasing it - you should hear the hammer hit the firing pin
5) Pull charging handle again and release while still holding trigger back
6) Release the trigger - You should feel the sear reset with a small bump against your finger and an audible "click"
7) Pull the trigger - you should hear the hammer hit the firing pin

If the first trigger pull releases the hammer, but the reset never happens, you've got to strip your trigger group apart. Entreprise is local (here in SoCal) and this is one task they may actually be up for if you are not comfortable working on the trigger pack yourself. Depending on your location, it's probably best to meet the gunsmith over there face to face rather than mailing it and make an appointment so you can be there when its done, get a detailed explanation, a quote for any needed parts and time and make sure you do not leave the firearm with them! If you stay there, they will get it done and probably do a fine job for a reasonable fee and a couple of hours of your time.

R

OK... so I went to range Friday, and the same thing. The first round fires, it ejects, the bolt cycles the next round into the chamber, but since there wasn't a trigger reset, nothing happens on the next trigger pull. I did try what was recommended by dry firing, then cycling the bolt back manually half way to see if the trigger resets while still depressing it, and IT DOES. I didn't understand it. Why was the trigger not reseting after firming but it does on dry fire half cocking.

So I tried to another theory...
Let me ask you all something. If the bolt is being held back by the the bolt release and you where to depress the trigger and release the bolt, should the hammer follow the bolt as it slams forward cambering the next round? Could it be that my bolt is traveling back this far after firing and because I am still depressing the trigger, the hammer is following the bolt as soon as it locks back up in battery? I believe that this is what is happening.

I am no gunsmith so I am seriously thinking about contacting the recommended smiths to take a look at my gun. BUT, does this sound like I am pin pointing my problem?

Thanks

thedrickel
06-19-2012, 10:47 AM
The hammer should not be following the bolt. You need a new HTS. Try out an OEM HTS set - if that corrects the issue, then either try to get your US parts count elsewhere, or find a good US made HTS set.

luckystrike
06-19-2012, 11:29 AM
Mark is a gunsmith at ades gunshop, he is familiar with fals. give him a call first tho.

insin
06-19-2012, 12:07 PM
The hammer should not be following the bolt. You need a new HTS. Try out an OEM HTS set - if that corrects the issue, then either try to get your US parts count elsewhere, or find a good US made HTS set.

Who makes a good US option for this?

thedrickel
06-19-2012, 1:44 PM
I think DSA and Falcon are your only currently available options. You can try to find an FSE set, but good luck since they have been out of production for years.

Richard Erichsen
06-19-2012, 2:07 PM
I think DSA and Falcon are your only currently available options. You can try to find an FSE set, but good luck since they have been out of production for years.

There is also the JARD pack, but it's a pricey bugger and takes some fiddling, as well as being very un-FAL like (everything in the pack is different from the FAL or L1A1, though similar to their AR15 pack with a FAL specific hammer). It can be ordered with various springs from 3 lbs to 5.5 lbs if you want to adjust the trigger pull weight. It has set screws for adjusting pre-travel, over-travel and establishing a tight lockup with the safety. After adjustment, threadlock is needed when you get it set to avoid screws backing out and throwing the disconnector to hammer or safety to trigger relationships out of whack. The Falcon Arms would be my backup plan with their trigger pull reduction (TPR) springs if the $170 price of the Jard stings too much.

R

falawful
06-19-2012, 9:30 PM
If hammer follow, the dealer's warehouse has HTS kits, also get a new selector. Verify by loading one round, firing, then breaking rifle open to see if hammer is in the cocked position.

However IF your trigger resets by pushing trigger forward the return spring is not strong enough.

The problem you describe is not difficult or expensive to fix.