View Full Version : Help on reloading for SOCOM II
06-03-2012, 1:59 PM
Hello. I want to reload for my M1A SOCOM II. Very new to this so please excuse any questions with "obvious" answers. I underdtand that because it is a semi-automatic, the brass should be match grade brass (military) in order to prevent slam-fires etc. Two questions: 1) Since they are bottle neck cases and literature suggests full body resizing (as oposed to only neck) for all cases to be used in semi-automatics, which set of dies do I need for the thicker match brass cases? I bought the regular RCBS .308 die set and cannot use it for this weapon (such is my understanding) bcause the set is not for match brass. Preferably RCBS but not entirely necessary. 2) Can these match brass cases be crimped? Im casting the bullets as well. (dont know yet if they have to be crimped or not, but just in case. Again. Im new and learning). Thanks for any help.
P.S. Can RCBS X-dies be compatible with these match grade brass? Will those work? Again. Thanks.
Mil brass isn't match brass
You can use whatever brass you want
Yes you want to full length resize
RCBS dies are perfectly fine
You don't need to crimp anything if you don't want to
Not sure on gas check might not be hot enough loads to cycle the action
As far as primers go I've never had a problem with CCI regulars in my ARs or Garands.
Scharch has some 1x fired mil 308 brass for sale it is sized and ready to go.
Goldenwestbrass, wideners, couple others have cheap 308 FMJ bullets. I'd use that instead of f***ing around with cast lead.
06-03-2012, 2:39 PM
First off I recommend reading some reloading manuals. Secondly there is great info for reloading over at brian enos.com. Third military brass is not match grade. It may be 7.62 is thicker in the webbing than consumer grade .308 but it is not match grade just made to handle higher pressures. As for being semi auto you can go with a harder primer to prevent slam fires such as CCI. I would not recommend cast bullets for your application but would go with a jacketed bullet. Lastly you can use the dies that you have. RCBS I believe makes an extra tight die (forget the name) for semi autos that helps with working the brass too hard.
Lee makes a factory crimp dies that is awesome. Anyways do some research before you invest too much. Also check m14forum for reloads for the m1a.
"Small Base Dies"
They undersize the brass ever so slightly to make sure that it feeds/chambers in a semi.
I use them for my 223 and 308 semis but generally speaking you should not need them.
06-03-2012, 4:19 PM
Hoop is correct SBD, I suggest you read up on "Slam fires" causes and effect and reload from there, if you have never seen a slam fired gun I suggest you find a picture fast.
06-03-2012, 6:48 PM
Thanks to all. Yes. Planning on reading lots and asking many questions before I buy anymore stuff. Haha. Dont need to see any pictures of a slam fire. The description ofninsounds horrible by itslef. It is something to fear, respect, and find solutions to. Im getting mixed messages though. Thanks for pointing out that military brass is NOT match brass, so which brass do I need? Match brass right? (based on what ive read so far). Also, im getting mixed signals here. Literature says I should use match brass to prevent slam fires, but folks here are telling me regular brass is fine. Which one is it and why? I thought regular brass could not resist the violent chambering and could cause slam fires. Trust me, im doing a lot of reading, but questions still arise. Thanks to all again
06-03-2012, 7:20 PM
Thanks to all. Yes. Planning on reading lots and asking many questions before I buy anymore stuff.
bear in mind, there's a "ammo and reloading" subforum under "outdoors and accessories." there's probably a lot of good info there as well.
Thanks for pointing out that military brass is NOT match brass, so which brass do I need? Match brass right? (based on what ive read so far).
Three main types:
1) Military 7.62x51 match brass.
2) Military 7.62x51 non-match brass.
3) Commercial 308 brass. This could range from Big5 Winchester hunting ammo to Federal GMM.
I've used LC and FA Match brass for my M1A reloads. I've also used 2009 production once fired Winchester M80 NATO brass. They all work fine.
Match brass is nice because there is no crimp in the primer pocket. Makes the initial processing faster.
Also, im getting mixed signals here. Literature says I should use match brass to prevent slam fires, but folks here are telling me regular brass is fine. Which one is it and why? I thought regular brass could not resist the violent chambering and could cause slam fires. Trust me, im doing a lot of reading, but questions still arise. Thanks to all again
The military brass (match and non-match) is thicker and more durable. This is important for a semi auto, because they are harder on brass. The reason 'regular brass' (commercial) is not recommended is because the commercially loaded ammo may have softer primers. This could be an issue due to the floating firing pin in the M1A. The cases also aren't as thick which will result in case head separations sooner than the military brass.
One thing to watch out for with the military brass is some of the Lake City Match...I've reloaded some from the late 70's that has a cannelure in the case body, just above the head. The cases will fail at that point within a couple reloads if you fire them from the M1A.
06-03-2012, 9:11 PM
I woild recommend a crimp with the socom. It is a little hard on the bullets as they feed. It doesnt take much just a firm crimp
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