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FIREBALL_BRIAN
04-26-2012, 6:10 PM
Picked up a brand new 10/22 and ran federal 525 brick ammo through it. And well stock rotorary mag as well as aftermarket mags still yield the infamous stove pipe jam. What's the best means to prevent this as ruger says keep shooting different ammo brands unroll I find one that this won't happen with

10/22 is 100% bone stock at this point

foesgth
04-26-2012, 6:19 PM
They do tend to stove pipe when new. If the bolt slides without any binding you might try locking the bolt back until you go to the range next time. The new springs probably don't take a set but that is the classic way to reduce spring tension. If it still stove pipes what most folks find is they have a bad extractor. The cheaper ammo have more variation in the rim. Use an after market extractor and that will clear out the problem.

G-forceJunkie
04-26-2012, 6:22 PM
Volquartsen extractor.

FIREBALL_BRIAN
04-26-2012, 6:36 PM
thanks for the prompt responses. I notice the volq extractor is a mere $10ish which is prob a good sugestion and a cheap option to try. Any thoughts on running hotter ammo? or is it that the 10/22 is more of a diva and wants the perfect tolerances on the casings. I am awaiting the weekend so i can go try different brands of ammo but i just cant fathom that will be the fix as my other semi auto 22's feed anything

*Fisherman
04-26-2012, 7:06 PM
Both of mine prefer CCI MiniMags 40gr round nose. They feed and eject these without issue. Pretty much everything else has some issue ejecting. I am waiting on my Volquartsen extractors to come in the mail to see if they make a difference.

UserM4
04-26-2012, 7:11 PM
+1 on VQ.

FIREBALL_BRIAN
04-26-2012, 7:13 PM
yea. just a little curious as i have ran other 10/22's with zero issues and was just baffled with this 10/22 giving hiccups. Well i will post up after the weekend to note if diff ammo brands helped. Thanks all

Dirtbikindad393
04-26-2012, 9:55 PM
shot my 10/22 TD for the first time today. 30 rounds in the two halfs became loose. We tightened the ring up and it seemed to be fine after that. Ran CCI Blazer for the first 50 rounds then Federal bulk. Had 3 FTE in the stove pipe situation with the Federal. Bone stock gun so I am thinking I will get the VQ extractor and for sure the magazine release. I will also get the VQ bolt release and while I am at it the recoil buffer. I had a ton of trouble getting the bolt to release and chamber the first round. It was frustrating but got a little easier as we ran more rounds through it. All told we ran about 300 rd through it.

JNunez23
04-26-2012, 10:03 PM
Yeah, it's the ammo but the extractor should solve that.

mcmski
04-26-2012, 10:13 PM
When I got my 10/22 I was told to put a couple hundred hotter rounds like CCI Mini Mags though it to help break it in. Seemed to work well in mine.

pdq_wizzard
04-26-2012, 10:20 PM
When I got my 10/22 I was told to put a couple hundred hotter rounds like CCI Mini Mags though it to help break it in. Seemed to work well in mine.

CCI mini Mags??

that's nothing but a marketing name, the run no hotter than any other .22LR but cost more $$$

KandyRedCoi
04-27-2012, 2:23 AM
i dont think its because its "hotter" but more in the lines of better quality rims/brass and more consistent burning powder...ive always done the cci mini mag for the 1st 200 or so rounds and NONE of my .22lr rifles or pistol has ever experienced anything bad...like most people you get the failures when u use the "cheaper" bulk stuff

3 people in my group have 10/22 all bought at different times in different configurations and none of us has had any issues whatsoever

was there a batch that had the bad extractors?

Scratch705
04-27-2012, 2:43 AM
sometimes the bolt handle rod will be rough and can cause some slowdowns with the bolt movement. maybe check that out too.

and of course, check the inside of the receiver area for any gunk buildup. i know with my 10/22 stainless they painted the inside with that gray paint and just after 50 rounds it was starting to scratch off and gunk up the inside.

FIREBALL_BRIAN
04-27-2012, 7:10 AM
This is all good checks for me to look into this weekend. Thanks everyone

Eljay
04-27-2012, 9:33 AM
Note that most companies that sell .22 conversions recommend the mini mags because they're the most reliable and likely to cycle things under marginal conditions. I'd add some extra lube to the bolt, run mini mags for a couple of range trips, and then if you want to go back to the bulk they'll most likely work by then. Getting the better extractor is probably a good idea - I use one - but mostly what it needs is to wear in a bit, smooth out any rough surfaces, etc. etc. and then it should get less picky.

Super Spy
04-27-2012, 9:57 AM
I took out my new 10/22 2 weekends ago and it ran flawless. I just installed a few parts: Volquartsen 4 1/2# trigger kit with auto bolt release and an extended mag release...hopefully function remains consistent.

FIREBALL_BRIAN
04-27-2012, 8:49 PM
ok i took the 10/22 all apart. Found that the inisde of the reciever was worse than sand paper. I spent 10min with steel wool and smoothed it all out. feels so much better. I also picked up federal semi auto match and two versions of cci... stinger and mini mag. Gonna give this a try. I have my fingers crossed. Also the extractor looked like it had quite a sharp hook and i felt confident with it

Schlyme
04-27-2012, 9:15 PM
I took mine out on wednesday for the first time. first round stove piped but no other issues(except for my inability to count to 10) did 200 of fed bulk, 50 of cci mini mag and 50 of remington X speed. I had cleaned it out and removed excess lub before taking it out. then put a drop or 2 of fresh gun oil.

richrmi
04-27-2012, 11:09 PM
Could be a poorly "tuned" factory extractor or the bolt itself. After many years of tinkering with my 10/22's action in an effort to improve reliability, I finally took the time to understand what was contributing to the stovepipes. Yes, certain ammo always worked better (Mini-Mags, more recently Federal AutoMatch) but the ejection issues persisted.

I noticed several of the aftermarket bolts had a large radius machined on the edge that rides against the trigger. Not wanting to splurge for an expensive new bolt, I located a shop in CT that reworks factory 10/22 bolts. Bolt face squared and depth set, firing pin locating pin installed, bolt radiused, polished or jeweled bolt surface finish.

The Ruger factory extractors now appear to be hardened based on surface finish and a surface scratch test. They are less than $2 a piece and work great.

http://www.ct-precision.com/ruger10-22.html

Several mods are performed for about $50. I also switched back to a stock Ruger extractor in place of a Power Custom titanium model.

I took the 10/22 to the range three weeks ago and it now seems to cycle everything without a hitch. Eight different types of ammo all the way down to the Remington Subsonic. The subsonic cases weren't thrown far but easily cleared the ejection port. My 10/22 is now completely insensitive to any factory mag. Sorry, but I've never had much success with aftermarket 10/22 mags.

Throw in an inexpensive 4X scope, a trigger job, extended mag release and recoil buffer, suto bolt release and call it done. It's got minute of golf ball accuracy out to nearly 100 yards using several different types/ brands of ammo and can cycle 500 rounds without a single fault.

Rich

FIREBALL_BRIAN
04-28-2012, 7:43 AM
C t site doesn't look bad at all. I want to test it out with my recent changes before I outsource the 10/22 out. Tempting to add in some trigger work too. I need to make it reliable first priority

oddball
04-28-2012, 6:35 PM
Volquartsen extractor.

A good start to possibly solve your issues.

richrmi
04-28-2012, 11:30 PM
Yes, the extractor is important but what's more important is how it is holding the case. After careful examination and some online research, I found that my Power Custom titanium claw extractor was actually not grabbing the case close to the rim. Instead, the claw was pushing on the case several millimeters up and causing it to tilt toward the ejector. My theory is the cases were spinning into the action instead of spinning out and causing stovepipes. It used to be a very common occurrence.

For a few bucks, I bought several Ruger factory extractors, plungers and springs. With the bolt removed, using a spent brass case, I was able to check the extractor fit. The claw of the extractor was found to be grabbing very close to the rim and was deemed good.

Two things I forgot to mention regarding the bolt mod. The radius on the rear of the bolt raises the contact point on the trigger and increases the leverage for improved cycling. I now find it easier to cycle the bolt by hand as well. CT Precision also installs a dowel pin over the firing pin, near the bolt face, so the firing pin cannot walk up and over the rim, missing the primer.

All of the other mods mentioned earlier were done by me. The bolt is the only part I have ever sent out. In case you're wondering, the machine work on the bolt I had reworked by CT Precision is first rate, truly a professional job.

HTH,
Rich

Wodsworthy
04-29-2012, 3:06 AM
How often are you getting stovepiping?

FIREBALL_BRIAN
04-29-2012, 6:58 AM
Thanks rich
Wodsworthy approx 2-4 rnds per 10rnd rotary mag

me109g4
05-05-2012, 12:46 PM
CT. Precision gets my vote too, I had them do a trigger on my 10/22, it is fantastic,, worth every penny.

FIREBALL_BRIAN
05-05-2012, 7:55 PM
Thanks for the second reference on ct. I'm gonna get to try it out shortly and see if my polishing worked. If not then its off to ct

FIREBALL_BRIAN
05-14-2012, 5:30 PM
Well my little steel wool polish and ammo change seemed to do the trick. Also left the bolt locked back for a week. I ran federal semi auto match and no issues. I didn't try the cci I picked up. Another day. But the polishing really cleaned up a lot on the inside.