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calishine
04-18-2012, 10:31 PM
I haven't been visiting centerfire rifles as much as I used to, and I'm seeing a lot of AR threads asking about a variety of things, from gear recommendations to parts availability.

I am by no means an expert (not even close), but I'll try to answer your questions or at least point you in the right direction. There are also members on here who have forgotten more about the AR platform than I'll ever know, who I'm sure will chime in. I hope people contribute to this thread and answer questions for fellow members as well. Ask away!

empty the mag
04-18-2012, 10:33 PM
Where the Heck is all the AR parts?

calishine
04-18-2012, 10:35 PM
LOL, my educated guess is a combination of people stocking up in anticipation of a perceived potential weapons bann or shortage. In effect, it becomes a self-fulfilling prophecy.

Tax season just ended, and a lot of folks do tend to buy gun related items around this time of the year.

additionally, you have a lot of manufacturers trying to fill their orders from shot show.

Is there a particular part you're looking for?

send it_hit
04-18-2012, 10:38 PM
here's one i had on the mind today:

are troy and DD the only ones that make 12" rails for a carbine length barrel, with a space for the front site?

I like this one so much, but the price is killing me...

https://danieldefense.com/rail-systems/omega-x-rail/omega-x-railtm-12-0-fsp-carbine.html

monk
04-18-2012, 10:42 PM
I wanna know when PSA is going to restock their magpul moe foliage stock kit....

Honestly the only question I had early this morning was answered by an older post. "Is it ok to leave your bullet-buttone'd AR/AK without a magazine, such as when transporting? No. The AR/AK should have a magazine in the magwell unless you are switching out mags at the range."

send it_hit
04-18-2012, 10:43 PM
""Is it ok to leave your bullet-buttone'd AR/AK without a magazine, such as when transporting? No. The AR/AK should have a magazine in the magwell unless you are switching out mags at the range.""

i feel like i'm missing something... why?

calishine
04-18-2012, 10:43 PM
@jacob

Those are both excellent choices, and if you want a great gear, you're going to have to spend a great gear money.

To answer your question no, they are not the only manufacturers that manufacture this particular rail set up

Samson does does as well as well:

http://www.samson-mfg.com/ar-15_html/product/STAR-CXR.html

calishine
04-18-2012, 10:48 PM
I wanna know when PSA is going to restock their magpul moe foliage stock kit....

Honestly the only question I had early this morning was answered by an older post. "Is it ok to leave your bullet-buttone'd AR/AK without a magazine, such as when transporting? No. The AR/AK should have a magazine in the magwell unless you are switching out mags at the range."

I agree, leave the mag in the mag well. There are lot of misconceptions out there about what's okay and what is not in regards to AR legality, and not everyone you will encounter will have the facts. IMHO, it's not worth the grief.

regarding the MOE foliage stock, you're better off going with the CTR anyway in my opinion at least

however if you must have the MOE foliage stock, Midway USA is scheduled to have them on the 22nd (in 4 days)

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/2319180434/magpul-moe-buttstock-collapsible-ar-15-carbine-synthetic

send it_hit
04-18-2012, 10:50 PM
Those are both excellent choices, and if you want a great gear, you're going to have to spend a great gear money.

I fear you are right... and I'll probably end up going with the DD since my upper is 99% DD already. Looks like I'll have to put off some other purchases.

Thanks for the other suggestion too.

calishine
04-18-2012, 11:12 PM
I fear you are right... and I'll probably end up going with the DD since my upper is 99% DD already. Looks like I'll have to put off some other purchases.

Thanks for the other suggestion too.

you are welcome! if it was my rifle I'd go with the DD rail also, for the same reason you mentioned.

monk
04-18-2012, 11:29 PM
""Is it ok to leave your bullet-buttone'd AR/AK without a magazine, such as when transporting? No. The AR/AK should have a magazine in the magwell unless you are switching out mags at the range.""

i feel like i'm missing something... why?

See the end of this post.

I agree, leave the mag in the mag well. I've heard both sides of the argument, but I am of the school of thought that it's better to be safe than sorry. There are lot of misconceptions out there about what's okay and what is not in regards to AR legality, and not everyone you will encounter will have the facts. IMHO, it's not worth the grief.

regarding the MOE foliage stock, you're better off going with the CTR anyway in my opinion at least

however if you must have the MOE foliage stock, Midway USA is scheduled to have them on the 22nd (in 4 days)

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/2319180434/magpul-moe-buttstock-collapsible-ar-15-carbine-synthetic

Well, PSA already has that stock in stock...no pun intended. But I wanted their kit with the buffer tube, buffer, spring, etc. It's $80 so I'm saving about $30+.

I agree,
I would like to hear why this is so. I had a off duty LEO say he would have taken my weapon if he was on duty and saw my Bullet buttoned AR without a 10 round mag in the magwell. His argument was it was in the shape of being able to accept a hi-cap mag(Which I DIDN'T HAVE!).

Please enlighten us on this theory, inquiring minds are interested.

I'm mostly going by this thread. http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/showthread.php?p=1301407 More below

Hoffmang states that it's easier to explain to a LEO that it IS a fixed mag because it has a mag in it that can't be removed without a tool. I suppose you CAN just show them by putting an empty mag in and showing them it can't be removed with the push of a button. It's more of a recommendation really.

http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/showthread.php?t=52969
http://calguns.net/calgunforum/showthread.php?t=402723

The last one is the latest and it seems more people are ok with going magless. IDK, I guess it's sort of like the argument about the Prince 50 before they tweaked.

calishine
04-18-2012, 11:54 PM
See the end of this post.



Well, PSA already has that stock in stock...no pun intended. But I wanted their kit with the buffer tube, buffer, spring, etc. It's $80 so I'm saving about $30+.

Found it for you. Its a lil more expensive, but if you need it now:

http://www.rainierarms.com/?page=shop/manufacturer&manufacturer=3&pagenumber=5

monk
04-19-2012, 12:06 AM
Found it for you. Its a lil more expensive, but if you need it now:

http://www.rainierarms.com/?page=shop/manufacturer&manufacturer=3&pagenumber=5

Thanks for the find. I don't "need" it right now. I'm waiting on a barrel anyway so I can wait on the stock.

Flowmini98
04-19-2012, 12:40 AM
I agree,
I would like to hear why this is so. I had a off duty LEO say he would have taken my weapon if he was on duty and saw my Bullet buttoned AR without a 10 round mag in the magwell. His argument was it was in the shape of being able to accept a hi-cap mag(Which I DIDN'T HAVE!).

Please enlighten us on this theory, inquiring minds are interested.



Let me see if im clear on this...? You must leave a 10 round magazine in your mag-well at all times? Including trasnporting and lying on the bench at the gun range?

Why? and what if you have 30round Pmags that are blocked to only hold 10 rounds with the end plates glued to avoid removal? Im concerened simply because I only have 30 round mags that have been blocked and glued

Jel
04-19-2012, 12:44 AM
I have a complete A3 Flat Top AR15 with a 20" barrel. When swapping out the A3 upper for an A2 upper for my semi-retro build, do I need to worry about headspacing?

monk
04-19-2012, 12:49 AM
Let me see if im clear on this...? You must leave a 10 round magazine in your mag-well at all times? Including trasnporting and lying on the bench at the gun range?

Why? and what if you have 30round Pmags that are blocked to only hold 10 rounds with the end plates glued to avoid removal? Im concerened simply because I only have 30 round mags that have been blocked and glued

That PMAG wouldn't be a 30-rounder then would it? ;)

Again, the general consensus is that you don't HAVE to, it just gets the police off your rear quicker. Think about it like this...

LEO: "You say this is a fixed magazine AR...but you have no magazine in it...therefor it is not a fixed magazine AR. Let's go to the station to sort this out..."

jcslone
04-19-2012, 12:53 AM
I have a complete A3 Flat Top AR15 with a 20" barrel. When swapping out the A3 upper for an A2 upper for my semi-retro build, do I need to worry about headspacing?
Nope, all AR15 lowers and uppers are fully interchangeable. The only time you would have to worry about headspacing is if you were reloading your own rounds...in that case you just follow the recommended specs for the load you're building.

Flowmini98
04-19-2012, 12:54 AM
Monk - thank you for the clarification

MrPlink
04-19-2012, 1:41 AM
Why isnt the AR as good as the AK? :43:

strongpoint
04-19-2012, 5:21 AM
Again, the general consensus is that you don't HAVE to, it just gets the police off your rear quicker. Think about it like this...

LEO: "You say this is a fixed magazine AR...but you have no magazine in it...therefor it is not a fixed magazine AR. Let's go to the station to sort this out..."

let's be clear here: the advice is to keep a mag in the magwell during transport (which i do as well) because that may make it easier to pass inspection by an LEO who doesn't know all the ins and outs of the relevant statutes.

however, doing so is NOT required by the laws in question. librarian's post (http://calguns.net/calgunforum/showpost.php?p=5907960&postcount=3) in one of the threads linked above explains it perfectly -- the ability to accept a detachable magazine is an aspect of the rifle's configuration that does not depend on whether a magazine is inserted at any given time (if you've done it correctly).


I had a off duty LEO say he would have taken my weapon if he was on duty and saw my Bullet buttoned AR without a 10 round mag in the magwell. His argument was it was in the shape of being able to accept a hi-cap mag.

wtf? this LEO's reasoning is mind-boggling, not to mention dead wrong. if he was correct, any pistol without a magazine inserted would be subject to confiscation -- after all, it's capable of accepting a "hi-cap mag."

but he provides one more bit of evidence in favor of keeping a magazine locked in place during transport.

KaTooM
04-19-2012, 5:44 AM
I always used Jimmy plugs in all of my AR15 BB equipped rifles before giving up on the risk of 10 years in club fed and selling all of them.

I am old school I guess, and having a mag in any gun that is supposed to be unloaded is unsafe.

When I brought my six ar's into the gun shop to be sold they had me pull the plugs and snickerd that I used them.

Chris

ThemBastards
04-19-2012, 8:07 AM
Thinking about getting a compensator. My AR is currently a 100% plinking toy that I shoot for fun, I have read of shockwaves and extra noise that can make shooting several hundred rounds NOT fun.
So I guess my question is in the movie Inception- does the top stop spinning at the end?

^ no but really is a compensator recommended for desert plinking fun? Overkill?

Jel
04-19-2012, 9:13 AM
Nope, all AR15 lowers and uppers are fully interchangeable. The only time you would have to worry about headspacing is if you were reloading your own rounds...in that case you just follow the recommended specs for the load you're building.

Sorry, I wasn't more clear.

I have a complete A3 rifle. I am removing the 20" barrel from my A3 upper and putting it on an A2 upper that does not currently have a barrel attached to it.

calishine
04-19-2012, 9:15 AM
Thinking about getting a compensator. My AR is currently a 100% plinking toy that I shoot for fun, I have read of shockwaves and extra noise that can make shooting several hundred rounds NOT fun.
So I guess my question is in the movie Inception- does the top stop spinning at the end?

^ no but really is a compensator recommended for desert plinking fun? Overkill?

Nope, get a Battlecomp. The Battlecomp's difference in blast and sound level is negligible. The same cannot be said of some other comps n the market.

I wondered the same thing about the top!

calishine
04-19-2012, 9:17 AM
Why isnt the AR as good as the AK? :43:

the AR is not as good as the a.k., It's better:43:

just kidding, they are both fine weapons

CALI SHOT DOC
04-19-2012, 9:20 AM
mounting a scope on my ar that has the standard A2 front site. Does the scope have to be above the a2 for a clear picture causing me to mount the scope higher or can the a2 be in "the way"?

Droppin Deuces
04-19-2012, 9:20 AM
I keep asking my AR questions, but it never answers. What's wrong with it?

calishine
04-19-2012, 9:36 AM
mounting a scope on my ar that has the standard A2 front site. Does the scope have to be above the a2 for a clear picture causing me to mount the scope higher or can the a2 be in "the way"?

At higher magnification (like 10x), the front post will become invisible. no need to mount higher

ThemBastards
04-19-2012, 9:37 AM
Nope, get a Battlecomp. The Battlecomp's difference in blast and sound level is negligible. The same cannot be said of some other comps n the market.

I wondered the same thing about the top!

Don't know if they make Battlecomp in my threading(1/2x36) and if they do hte BABC is over $200
:(
I was thinking the Solar Tactical FAST Comp but the whole concussion thing is foreign to me as I have not used a comp before.

Would you use a comp on a just for fun plinking gun?

calishine
04-19-2012, 9:39 AM
Sorry, I wasn't more clear.

I have a complete A3 rifle. I am removing the 20" barrel from my A3 upper and putting it on an A2 upper that does not currently have a barrel attached to it.

it's likely not necessary, but I would check headspace. why risk it? here's a good kit that you probably use in the future anyway when replacing your bolts.

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=26876/Product/GO-NO-GO-GAUGE-SETS

jbush
04-19-2012, 9:39 AM
I wanna know when PSA is going to restock their magpul moe foliage stock kit....

Honestly the only question I had early this morning was answered by an older post. "Is it ok to leave your bullet-buttone'd AR/AK without a magazine, such as when transporting? No. The AR/AK should have a magazine in the magwell unless you are switching out mags at the range."

I've ask PSA this twice on another forum they are on. They first responded a few weeks then 3 weeks went by and I ask again. Apparently Magpul is backordering them and won't give a date as to when they will do another run of Foliage. as soon as they are available from Magpul they will be back in stock.

Edit: After reading a little farther, someone said there back in stock. PSA build kits are a good buy and the ones I have the trigger is not to bad.

calishine
04-19-2012, 9:44 AM
Don't know if they make Battlecomp in my threading(1/2x36) and if they do hte BABC is over $200
:(
I was thinking the Solar Tactical FAST Comp but the whole concussion thing is foreign to me as I have not used a comp before.

Would you use a comp on a just for fun plinking gun?

that's one of the reasons the battle comp is so expensive is that it is one of the few that do not create a concussive blast.

I've never tried the solar tactical fast comp, but if it's not that expensive wouldn't hurt to try it. A comp would be an absolute great addition to a fun plinking gun. More shots with less muzzle rise.

Most comps do have a concussive blast you the shooter will not feel, it's typically those next to you that won't hear the noise and feel the blast.

Especially if you have a 16th inch or longer barrel, you can try it, don't like it take it right back off.

ThemBastards
04-19-2012, 9:57 AM
that's one of the reasons the battle comp is so expensive is that it is one of the few that do not create a concussive blast.

I've never tried the solar tactical fast comp, but if it's not that expensive wouldn't hurt to try it. A comp would be an absolute great addition to a fun plinking gun. More shots with less muzzle rise.

Most comps do have a concussive blast you the shooter will not feel, it's typically those next to you that won't hear the noise and feel the blast.

Especially if you have a 16th inch or longer barrel, you can try it, don't like it take it right back off.

Thanks man. One more thing- have comps been known to affect cycling? Currently my upper runs like a top and of course I am going to alter it :facepalm: I am throwing a St T2 buffer in there and thinking of also adding the comp- would changing those two things on a carbine length gas system 16" upper be a recipe for uh ohz'?

monk
04-19-2012, 10:04 AM
I've ask PSA this twice on another forum they are on. They first responded a few weeks then 3 weeks went by and I ask again. Apparently Magpul is backordering them and won't give a date as to when they will do another run of Foliage. as soon as they are available from Magpul they will be back in stock.

Edit: After reading a little farther, someone said there back in stock. PSA build kits are a good buy and the ones I have the trigger is not to bad.

They have the stock alone in stock, just not the buffer kit. And they're out of their branded buffer kit.

jmpgnr24k
04-19-2012, 10:56 AM
How high should the hammer on a AR be sticking out above the lower reciever in the cocked position. I installed a Armalite 2 stage LPK and when I rack the BCG it feels like its being pushed up a little in the upper receiver as it goes past the hammer.

bohoki
04-19-2012, 11:34 AM
i'd like to ask my ar if it feels lonely surrounded my aks and sks's in my safe do they bully you when i'm not looking

Tank27
04-19-2012, 11:35 AM
Where can i find a Noveske chainsaw lower in central cali lol

Jel
04-19-2012, 11:54 AM
it's likely not necessary, but I would check headspace. why risk it? here's a good kit that you probably use in the future anyway when replacing your bolts.

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=26876/Product/GO-NO-GO-GAUGE-SETS

Ok, thanks!

So say I do swap out the barrels and use the gauges and something is out of spec. How do you adjust or what do you adjust to make it a "GO" instead of "No Go"?

AeroEngi
04-19-2012, 1:45 PM
I have a question regarding transportation of your AR. Wouldn't it just be a lot less of a headache to take the upper off the lower and transport it that way? The LEO really won't be able to question anything cuz it's not even a gun at that point; it's just parts. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

calishine
04-19-2012, 2:07 PM
How high should the hammer on a AR be sticking out above the lower reciever in the cocked position. I installed a Armalite 2 stage LPK and when I rack the BCG it feels like its being pushed up a little in the upper receiver as it goes past the hammer.

It should stickup some. ....I don't know the exact measurement it should or should not. The only scenario I can think of where the hammer is higher than it should is if it or the lower is out of spec . If you have another AR, try a side by side comparison.

If it shoots fine, I would not worry about it.

calishine
04-19-2012, 2:12 PM
Ok, thanks!

So say I do swap out the barrels and use the gauges and something is out of spec. How do you adjust or what do you adjust to make it a "GO" instead of "No Go"?

First off, the likelyhood is very low.....if it is a no go, check with Randal at AR15barrels.com. for options. That man is an expert with this sort of stuff

calishine
04-19-2012, 2:14 PM
Where can i find a Noveske chainsaw lower in central cali lol

Don't know, but ive seen several on gunbroker and Rainierarms has them. They can ship to your ffl

Tank27
04-19-2012, 2:57 PM
Thanks ill take a look

empty the mag
04-19-2012, 3:04 PM
Ok,I need a good 16 inch barrel in the $250.00 range and what gas piston do you reccomend for that 16 incher? Thanks.

empty the mag
04-19-2012, 3:06 PM
Oh I am building my ownAR rifle and I have never done this before so I really don't know squat.

MrPlink
04-19-2012, 3:45 PM
Oh I am building my ownAR rifle and I have never done this before so I really don't know squat.

then I recommend skipping on the piston.

empty the mag
04-19-2012, 6:13 PM
Why? I have built many motorcycles. It seems infinitely harder. I have built furniture. I have built engines and transmissions on motorbikes and an engine on a VW. I weld and can BBQ. :)

calishine
04-19-2012, 6:34 PM
No worries... This is an easy one...go to

brownells.com

search their video center for the "how to build an AR series"

It's free online videos, and will teach you everything you ever wanted to know about building an AR--and some--step by step

Elwood_Blues
04-27-2012, 8:58 PM
OK, I searched, but I'm still not entirely clear on the issue. I'm using new JD upper, new Spikes BCG, and used (under 1000 rounds) 20" FN barrel. Do I have to worry about head spacing? Thanks, Phil

Rusty Scabbard
04-27-2012, 9:20 PM
Front sight base for Bushmaster ? Looking for a replacement FSB for a Bushmaster 20" barrel. I compared to another milspec base and the pins are a bit further apart. I couldn't find a replacement on Bushmasters website. Where would I find one of these ?

TNP'R
04-27-2012, 9:31 PM
Can I shoot 223 out of a 556?
Are AR-15's legal in CA?
What's a good brand of AR?
Whats a good red dot?
Need some back up iron sights what do you recommend?
What are evil features?
Why do I need to have a Bullet button?
Featureless or BB?

calishine
04-28-2012, 7:58 AM
Front sight base for Bushmaster ? Looking for a replacement FSB for a Bushmaster 20" barrel. I compared to another milspec base and the pins are a bit further apart. I couldn't find a replacement on Bushmasters website. Where would I find one of these ?

Call bushmaster's repair and parts number at 8008836229, they will set you up with what you need.

calishine
04-28-2012, 8:01 AM
Can I shoot 223 out of a 556?
Are AR-15's legal in CA?
What's a good brand of AR?
Whats a good red dot?
Need some back up iron sights what do you recommend?
What are evil features?
Why do I need to have a Bullet button?
Featureless or BB?

LOL

Meety Peety
04-28-2012, 8:23 AM
Here's one I see constantly: Explain the difference between buffer weights (H1 H2 H3 etc) and how do you determine which one will meet your needs?

calishine
04-28-2012, 8:33 AM
OK, I searched, but I'm still not entirely clear on the issue. I'm using new JD upper, new Spikes BCG, and used (under 1000 rounds) 20" FN barrel. Do I have to worry about head spacing? Thanks, Phil

I would defintely head space your upper before shooting it. There is over a 95% chance you will be fine without headspacing. You can buy a set of gauges at Brownells.com, and they also have a video that shows you how to do it.

calishine
04-28-2012, 8:49 AM
Here's one I see constantly: Explain the difference between buffer weights (H1 H2 H3 etc) and how do you determine which one will meet your needs?

In a very basic explanation, the different buffer weights slow down or accelerate the speed of the action to ensure proper cycling. If you buy a DI AR, odds are it will come with a standard carbine buffer or an H1.

A H2 is heavier than an H1, H3 is heavier than an H2, etc. Some people experiment with heavier buffer weights to reduce recoil and improve follow up shots.

A much more detailed explanation can be found here.

http://m.youtube.com/#/watch?desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DChKu86LRoeo&v=ChKu86LRoeo&gl=US

calishine
04-28-2012, 8:56 AM
Thanks man. One more thing- have comps been known to affect cycling? Currently my upper runs like a top and of course I am going to alter it :facepalm: I am throwing a St T2 buffer in there and thinking of also adding the comp- would changing those two things on a carbine length gas system 16" upper be a recipe for uh ohz'?

The comp should have no bearing on cycling. Nonetheless, make 1 change at a time, so if you encounter an issue, you can isolate it.

Fractured
04-28-2012, 8:58 AM
Do you have a resource of a "parts list"? Like if I want to start pricing out items for my build, that I could check off or write the price next to? I am not 100% clear on what parts I will exactly need.

Hopy
04-28-2012, 9:12 AM
My AR won't stop whispering to me from the gun safe. It keeps telling me it wants a little brother or sister. What should I do?

calishine
04-28-2012, 9:23 AM
My AR won't stop whispering to me from the gun safe. It keeps telling me it wants a little brother or sister. What should I do?

Buy another! Particularly before people go full crazy around election time and buy everything up. To a large degree its already happening.

calishine
04-28-2012, 9:32 AM
Do you have a resource of a "parts list"? Like if I want to start pricing out items for my build, that I could check off or write the price next to? I am not 100% clear on what parts I will exactly need.

Very basic answer,

Lower 100-250
Lower kit _ less than 100
Upper 500-1800

Very detailed answer with what you want:

http://www.brownells.com/UserDocs/Miscellaneous/ARCLform.pdf

Fractured
04-28-2012, 9:40 AM
Very basic answer,

Lower 100-250
Lower kit _ less than 100
Upper 500-1800

Very detailed answer with what you want:

http://www.brownells.com/UserDocs/Miscellaneous/ARCLform.pdf

Thank you I had found that but It was a bit more complicated than I was expecting. I was hoping for a laymans list, but something a little more in-depth than upper/lower/LPK (I have been researching like crazy, but there is a lot to learn)

What about BB's and stocks/grips? Those will need to be purchased unless I get an assembled lower right? DO most stocks come with the buffer tube?

calishine
04-28-2012, 10:25 AM
Lower:
Get a lower from a reputable mfr., like stag, bcm, etc. You can one of these for about 100 -150 If you want something a lil more high end, get a Noveske or Larue. They feature a built in trigger guard..250

LPK:
Stag, Daniel defense, or LWRC . Do not get a DPMS or Rock Rivers. You need to buy a bbx those are 20-40 depending on model.
You'll also need a ten round mag. 10 bucks

Stock kit:
You can get abasic complete milspec kit from Stag for under 100. I like the LMT full kit with SOPMOD stockbut it is 300

Upper:
BCM
LMT
Noveske
Colt
The list goes on. They range from 500-1500 depending on yourr preferences. You can get them complete ready to go, or bare so.you can customize.

That's all you need. You can go more in depth, and pick certain triggers, stocks, muzzle attachments, sights, etc.

dw149a
04-28-2012, 10:29 AM
What are the indicators of a quality AR? I mean the stuff that makes the gun accurate, reliable, etc...

calishine
04-28-2012, 10:40 AM
What are the indicators of a quality AR? I mean the stuff that makes the gun accurate, reliable, etc...

This the subject of much endless debate.

Read this thread:

http://forums.officer.com/t81462/

It will answer every single question on this subject you can think of.

monk
04-28-2012, 11:02 AM
Figured I would post some links I've obtained during my research:

AR Flowchart. Know this if you're building an AR: http://www.calguns.net/caawid/flowchart.pdf

AR-15 Exploded Diagram with links to each part: http://www.midwayusa.com/General.mvc/Index/Schematics~AR15

How to build an AR. Starts with the lower but if you go to the bottom of the page you'll see a bunch more links for uppers, etc: http://www.itstactical.com/warcom/firearms/diy-ar-15-build-introduction-parts-and-tools-required/

calishine
04-28-2012, 11:28 AM
Very helpful...thx

strongpoint
04-28-2012, 11:37 AM
What about BB's and stocks/grips? Those will need to be purchased unless I get an assembled lower right? DO most stocks come with the buffer tube?

basic grips are included with LPKs, but bullet buttons are usually purchased separately. check with your vendor if you're not certain.

it's my experience that the buffer, tube and spring are what separate buttstocks from buttstock kits, but you might find different results. again, ask your vendor if you're unsure.

madd556
04-28-2012, 11:45 AM
I've got a Stag 3h upper (flat top with gas block rail) and I want to run fixed iron sights. What pair of fixed sights would work? I like the troy fixed battle sights but they're for same plane mounting apparently. Any other, fairly inexpensive, suggestions?

dw149a
04-28-2012, 12:25 PM
Sorry for the duplicate post. Tapatalk seemed to work just fine before they upgraded it ! :) Cheers

chiz_65
04-28-2012, 1:33 PM
So, when transporting an AR, you should always have an empty mag in it?

Regarding mags; is it okay to leave them loaded for long periods of time, or do the springs wear out?

Is it safe to dry fire your AR?

calishine
04-28-2012, 9:48 PM
So, when transporting an AR, you should always have an empty mag in it?

Regarding mags; is it okay to leave them loaded for long periods of time, or do the springs wear out?

Is it safe to dry fire your AR?

It's a good idea to leave an empty mag inthe well. This is addressed on page 1

Dry firing will not hurt your ar.

The consensus on leaving mags loaded is that it is okay.

calishine
04-28-2012, 10:02 PM
I've got a Stag 3h upper (flat top with gas block rail) and I want to run fixed iron sights. What pair of fixed sights would work? I like the troy fixed battle sights but they're for same plane mounting apparently. Any other, fairly inexpensive, suggestions?

I don't know of any other sights that would work. It is a common complaint with that upper.

Here is my suggestion, Stag will switch out that block for an A frame front sight, for under a hundred bucks. Just call them for an RMA number. You will be happy, trust me.

monk
04-28-2012, 10:22 PM
It's a good idea to leave an empty mag inthe well. This is addressed on page 1

Dry firing will not hurt your ar.

The consensus on leaving mags loaded is that it is okay.

Just to add, I've read that you shouldn't pull the trigger if the upper its off. I'm guessing because of how the hammer is striking right?

Jel
04-29-2012, 12:57 AM
I would defintely head space your upper before shooting it. There is over a 95% chance you will be fine without headspacing. You can buy a set of gauges at Brownells.com, and they also have a video that shows you how to do it.

In the off chance that the 5% does come true and you are out of spec with your head spacing, what does one actually need to do to get it so the rifle is head spaced correctly?

strongpoint
04-29-2012, 3:31 AM
I've got a Stag 3h upper (flat top with gas block rail) and I want to run fixed iron sights. What pair of fixed sights would work? I like the troy fixed battle sights but they're for same plane mounting apparently. Any other, fairly inexpensive, suggestions?

I don't know of any other sights that would work. It is a common complaint with that upper.

i don't know about pairs, but you have a couple of options for the front sight. there's this (http://www.truglo.com/IW_Products.m4p.pvx?;MULTI_ITEM_SUBMIT), but you'd better be into fiber optics. or maybe you can find one of yankee hill's discontinued YHM-9495 (https://www.google.com/#hl=en&safe=off&output=search&q=YHM-9495)s. there just doesn't seem to be much demand -- most people with sights on gas block rails use flip-ups, apparently. calishines is right -- if you want fixed front, just get a standard A2 assembly.


Just to add, I've read that you shouldn't pull the trigger if the upper its off. I'm guessing because of how the hammer is striking right?

without the upper in, you're risking damage to the bolt stop or the rear of the magwell ... i suppose potentially to the hammer itself, too. if you need to dry-fire without an upper attached, either catch the hammer or get a magwell insert that has a cushion for the hammer fall.


In the off chance that the 5% does come true and you are out of spec with your head spacing, what does one actually need to do to get it so the rifle is head spaced correctly?

a) get a new barrel that registers proper headspacing when installed correctly, or b) have a machinist ream the chamber into spec.

Jel
04-30-2012, 3:52 PM
a) get a new barrel that registers proper headspacing when installed correctly, or b) have a machinist ream the chamber into spec.

Thanks SP!

APV
05-01-2012, 1:58 PM
I will appreciate if anybody helps me with the following AR questions
1. Which part of AR requires FFL for shipping? Is it a lower receiver only with a serial number?
2. Can I buy any AR parts online from any vendor except for the part requiring FFL? I wonder if there are any California regulations limiting online purchasing options.
3. As far as I know California requires a lock for a magazine. Is it ok to by parts online out of state and install the lock on my own?
4. are lower and upper receivers from different vendors fully compatible? Do I need to check for compatibility if I purchase upper and lower receivers from different vendors?
I guess my questions are as old as the AR itself. I just do not have much of experience with AR besides basic use and cleaning.

monk
05-01-2012, 2:17 PM
I will appreciate if anybody helps me with the following AR questions
1. Which part of AR requires FFL for shipping? Is it a lower receiver only with a serial number?
2. Can I buy any AR parts online from any vendor except for the part requiring FFL? I wonder if there are any California regulations limiting online purchasing options.
3. As far as I know California requires a lock for a magazine. Is it ok to by parts online out of state and install the lock on my own?
4. are lower and upper receivers from different vendors fully compatible? Do I need to check for compatibility if I purchase upper and lower receivers from different vendors?
I guess my questions are as old as the AR itself. I just do not have much of experience with AR besides basic use and cleaning.

My knowledge isn't as extensive as many others here, however, the following is what I believe to be true. Someone correct me.

1. The lower. I believe the rules for 80% lowers are different but I'm not sure how other than that they don't have a serial number.

2. You can buy most anything. 10+ round mags are illegal unless disassembled. If you want a lower just verify that the company can ship it to an FFL. Also remember that just because you can legally order it, doesn't mean you can even posses it. For example, I seem to remember someone saying that if you have a 14.5" upper, you NEED to have a pistol lower. Otherwise it could be construed as "constructive possession." Someone else can detail this.

3. Yes, I've done this as have many others. The issue comes when you assemble the rifle. Before you do any other assembly, you need to install a bullet button onto the lower. From there you can it together.

4. For the most part, yes. From what I know there are generally 2 different styles, AR15 and AR10. AR10 is for .308/7.62 rounds. These are slightly bigger and as such wont mate with AR15 upper/lower/barrels etc. Again, someone can give specific details.

strongpoint
05-01-2012, 4:14 PM
I will appreciate if anybody helps me with the following AR questions
1. Which part of AR requires FFL for shipping? Is it a lower receiver only with a serial number?
2. Can I buy any AR parts online from any vendor except for the part requiring FFL? I wonder if there are any California regulations limiting online purchasing options.
3. As far as I know California requires a lock for a magazine. Is it ok to by parts online out of state and install the lock on my own?
4. are lower and upper receivers from different vendors fully compatible? Do I need to check for compatibility if I purchase upper and lower receivers from different vendors?

1. the lower, which is serialized, is the only part of the AR which requires an FFL transaction. the 80% exemption monk refers to involves purchasing incomplete lowers, which you then have to finish on your own with final milling and metal treatment.

2. nothing else requires an FFL. monk properly cites the magazine importation restriction, but note that you also can't assemble the parts in the state. certain vendors looking to remain clearly on the right side of the law may have stricter restrictions than state law requires -- this is their right; just find another vendor.

3. "California requires a lock for a magazine" is a bit of an oversimplification -- it's not strictly required, but it does make certain popular configurations legal. read the flowchart, which you can find under "flowcharts & OLL assembly guide" in the blue bar at the top of this page. if you're going with a magazine-locked configuration, it's OK to purchase the lock and assemble it onto your lower yourself -- but do that first so that other features you might add later are legally compliant.

4. the simple answer is yes, as long as you're assembling a rifle chambered for .223/5.56 mm or cartridges of a similar size. the system is intended to be mostly modular unless you're dealing with larger cartridges that just won't fit in a standard lower; hence the larger size monk refers to. but if you have any questions at all, just ask the vendor.

APV
05-01-2012, 10:00 PM
Monk, strongpoint, thank you. Now I have a much better idea about building my first AR.

onegtalon
05-02-2012, 2:15 AM
Sorry if been asked before... (using my iPhone so kinda hard to read everything at speed)

I'm a newbie (at AR building). I just finished my Lower build in .556/223 (Tactical Machining lower + spikes LPK + Magpul grip and trigger guard in FDE) and now waiting on the buffer tube kit n stock from my FFL..(buffer from PWS enhanced no castle nut type) and a Magpul stock in FDE...

http://primaryweapons.com/store/m/viewprd.asp

In terms of uppers what kind of cash goes for a 16", flat top railed, free float quad rail, no sights, chrome lined, type of setup? Been looking around and everyone is out of stock! (I'm not looking for a piston type setup just the norm DI type) and I'm a little confused on brands vs quality...

Looking to spend ( on a complete upper) about 700-900 range with some headroom for more if needed......(tell me I'm out of my budget if you have to, I need to know if I'm being realistic)

I can build a lower with no issues but not that comfortable with the whole headroom setup, getting rid of the gas block:A2 sight mods and maybe lacking of tools to build a whole upper...(I built my lower without a bench vise... No problems)

I'm also just wondering about getting a cheepo setup now just to shoot and sell it later for what I want..

I'm not a gunsmith but can take a car apart.. Lacking the general knowledge n tools for an upper build I guess... ;-)

But I am researching like f--king crazy! Need to do more....

Anyway, all comments accepted.. Serious ones anyway.. ;-p




Sent from my iPhone...

Caseless
05-02-2012, 11:49 AM
How do I keep an AR-15 reliable without cleaning/lubing it after each short range trip(<50 rounds)?

I know the BCG is the biggest factor, but CLP dries out after a few days. Slip2000, Nickel-boron coated BCG?

chiz_65
05-02-2012, 12:01 PM
If a stripped AR lower reciever says "multi" where the caliber is etched, does that mean you can fit a 5.56/.223 and/OR 7.62/308 to it? Or do .308 uppers require a different lower?

http://lh6.ggpht.com/-cgSbnnpKjck/Th7l6TfufEI/AAAAAAAAAAA/3uA_0BWgLPw/s512/stslgen2.jpg

strongpoint
05-02-2012, 1:01 PM
If a stripped AR lower reciever says "multi" where the caliber is etched, does that mean you can fit a 5.56/.223 and/OR 7.62/308 to it? Or do .308 uppers require a different lower?

.308 rounds (and thus .308 magazines) are too long to fit in the magwell of an AR-15 lower. hence the existence of the larger size, which is often called AR-10.

in truth, all AR-15 lowers are multi-caliber. given some potential minor modifications to the lower, many different types of ammunition are compatible with the platform if your upper has the right barrel and bolt.

calishine
05-02-2012, 8:46 PM
How do I keep an AR-15 reliable without cleaning/lubing it after each short range trip(<50 rounds)?

I know the BCG is the biggest factor, but CLP dries out after a few days. Slip2000, Nickel-boron coated BCG?

in all honesty, I recommend lubricating the bolt carrier group with slip 2000. You don't need to clean after 50 rounds. CLP is not that effective.

Just lubricate before each range trip and you're good to go

calishine
05-02-2012, 8:52 PM
Sorry if been asked before... (using my iPhone so kinda hard to read everything at speed)

I'm a newbie (at AR building). I just finished my Lower build in .556/223 (Tactical Machining lower + spikes LPK + Magpul grip and trigger guard in FDE) and now waiting on the buffer tube kit n stock from my FFL..(buffer from PWS enhanced no castle nut type) and a Magpul stock in FDE...

http://primaryweapons.com/store/m/viewprd.asp

In terms of uppers what kind of cash goes for a 16", flat top railed, free float quad rail, no sights, chrome lined, type of setup? Been looking around and everyone is out of stock! (I'm not looking for a piston type setup just the norm DI type) and I'm a little confused on brands vs quality...

Looking to spend ( on a complete upper) about 700-900 range with some headroom for more if needed......(tell me I'm out of my budget if you have to, I need to know if I'm being realistic)

I can build a lower with no issues but not that comfortable with the whole headroom setup, getting rid of the gas block:A2 sight mods and maybe lacking of tools to build a whole upper...(I built my lower without a bench vise... No problems)

I'm also just wondering about getting a cheepo setup now just to shoot and sell it later for what I want..

I'm not a gunsmith but can take a car apart.. Lacking the general knowledge n tools for an upper build I guess... ;-)

But I am researching like f--king crazy! Need to do more....

Anyway, all comments accepted.. Serious ones anyway.. ;-p




Sent from my iPhone...

you have plenty of options. You can definitely get a great upper within your price range. You don't need tools you don't need any of that stuff you can just get one that's plug-and-play that'll just attach to your lower.

Try these places for the upper:

Bravo company USA.com
rifle gear.com
rainier arms.com
Stag arms.com

with bravo company, you can even add an custom design your upper to your exact liking. good luck

monk
05-02-2012, 9:49 PM
you have plenty of options. You can definitely get a great upper within your price range. You don't need tools you don't need any of that stuff you can just get one that's plug-and-play that'll just attach to your lower.

Try these places for the upper:

Bravo company USA.com
rifle gear.com
rainier arms.com
Stag arms.com

with bravo company, you can even add an custom design your upper to your exact liking. good luck


I'd like to throw in Palmetto State Armory. I've only heard good things about them, other than availability, which is an issue for everyone.

onegtalon
05-03-2012, 4:25 AM
Thanks for the input... Unfortunately (as all of you are aware). Everything is out of stock ......... Damn this election year !!!

Aghhh... I'm dying man... Gonna go check out the comercial sales area in CalGuns.... Agggjjjhhhggggjhghggg!

The 10 day wait used to hurt me... Now it's the whole 'you can't even buy it' ' that kills me even more...


Sent from my iPhone...

chiz_65
05-04-2012, 7:52 AM
.308 rounds (and thus .308 magazines) are too long to fit in the magwell of an AR-15 lower. hence the existence of the larger size, which is often called AR-10.

in truth, all AR-15 lowers are multi-caliber. given some potential minor modifications to the lower, many different types of ammunition are compatible with the platform if your upper has the right barrel and bolt.

So, even if I had the proper 308 upper receiver assembly w/BCG, the stripped lower AR15 receiver I have wouldn't be able to fit 308/7.62 rounds w/out modifying it? See, I baught 2 stripped lowers at the same time for a good price. I just built my .556, but my next build I want to be a stronger caliber.

EDIT: You can use 7.62x39 using a standard AR15 lower, right? Just not the 7.62x51 or 308 round? The 7.62x39 requires a 308 upper though? Thanks!

monk
05-04-2012, 8:31 AM
So, even if I had the proper 308 upper receiver assembly w/BCG, the stripped lower AR15 receiver I have wouldn't be able to fit 308/7.62 rounds w/out modifying it? See, I baught 2 stripped lowers at the same time for a good price. I just built my .556, but my next build I want to be a stronger caliber.

EDIT: You can use 7.62x39 using a standard AR15 lower, right? Just not the 7.62x51 or 308 round? The 7.62x39 requires a 308 upper though? Thanks!

I believe this FAQ will answer your question regarding 7.62x39 rounds. http://www.ar15.com/content/page.html?id=558

FYI, it seems you should be able to use it.

jnick66
05-04-2012, 8:43 AM
I'm debating between a Stag model 2t or a Daniel Defense. The Stag is $1030 and the DD I'd $1499. I'm just using it for target practice and personal defense. But I do plan on having it for awhile. Any thoughts will help. Thanks

calishine
05-04-2012, 8:53 AM
get the Daniel defense.

My recommendation has nothing to do with regards to the quality of any of the two manufacturers. The reason I'm recommending that Daniel defense, is because you can get that Daniel defense in the mid-length set up if you purchase V3. or if you want a modular rail system, go with the V7.

wsmc27
05-04-2012, 10:48 AM
I'm debating between a Stag model 2t or a Daniel Defense. The Stag is $1030 and the DD I'd $1499. I'm just using it for target practice and personal defense. But I do plan on having it for awhile. Any thoughts will help. Thanks

get the Daniel defense.

My recommendation has nothing to do with regards to the quality of any of the two manufacturers. The reason I'm recommending that Daniel defense, is because you can get that Daniel defense in the mid-length set up if you purchase V3. or if you want a modular rail system, go with the V7.

Why would the guy asking the question need/want a mid-length versus carbine gas length?

Also, is having a modular rail system a benefit for target practice?

The DD is recognized as higher-quality by many. At what point does a new AR shooter desiring a target/hd rifle need to spend hundreds of dollars more than off-the-shelf Stag, S&W, Colt, etc.?

Thanks for your many insights. :)

SouthpawE46
05-04-2012, 11:45 AM
What are the benefits of a free floating quad rail over a drop in?

monk
05-04-2012, 12:30 PM
Mid-length versus carbine is a well-known debate. Many say that it reduces felt recoil, others contend that it's negligible.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vWtRyZ9EeSk
http://www.03designgroup.com/technotes/carbine-vs-mid-length-gas-system

It's also been argued that you have a longer sight radius, which is true if you're using the A2 FSB.

It's also been argued that the mid-length puts less stress on the BCG so in theory, it should last longer. I believe enough people have been running carbine gas systems to, apparently, refute this.

Modular rail system....tbh I don't really know enough to say why one is better than the other, except to say that you can add other doodads like lights, lasers, etc. lol

No clue on "quality" pieces other than to say that IMHO, you reach a point where you're just paying for the name. Again, I have no experience with this.

For the free float versus drop-in, I found this quote from another forum. Seems to make sense lol A free float (FF) eliminates external forces from affecting or influencing your barrel while shooting. Each time you discharge a rifle, the barrel "vibrates" as the round passes through the barrel. This is called "barrel harmonics". The barrel, with a hot round traveling down the length of it, is in effect behaving like a tuning fork.

The basic concept is that if you apply pressure or weight to the barrel anywhere along its length, you will change the frequency of that harmonic, thus changing the point of impact of the round. So, if you have a NON FF, and you shoot from a bi-pod, use a tensioned sling, add accessories to the forend, etc., you are applying an external force to the barrel (albeit minute) and the point of impact will change.

That said, the difference between FF and NON FF setups is generally pretty small (.5" @ 100yrds or less). Standard issue M4's and M16's are NON FF, so that half inch difference generally doesn't matter with combat rifles or SHTF rigs. But if you want to maximize the accuracy of the rifle, FF is the way to go.


I have a question for you guys asking about lube. I'm going to be using froglube all over the AR, including the BCG. Any reason why I should stop using it and go with a grease or the other 2 oils that were suggested?

Also, is grease better than oil? The reason why I like CLP is because when it dries, it dries to a waxy feel. No oily residue that I can see.

strongpoint
05-04-2012, 12:57 PM
So, even if I had the proper 308 upper receiver assembly w/BCG, the stripped lower AR15 receiver I have wouldn't be able to fit 308/7.62 rounds w/out modifying it?

that's correct.


You can use 7.62x39 using a standard AR15 lower, right? Just not the 7.62x51 or 308 round? The 7.62x39 requires a 308 upper though?

correct on the first count, but a .308 (7.62x51mm) upper will be too large for an AR-15 lower -- it's made to fit on an AR-10 lower. you'd want an AR-15 upper specifically chambered for 7.62x39mm.


I just built my .556, but my next build I want to be a stronger caliber.

you have plenty of choices available besides just 5.56x45 and 7.62x39 -- 6.5 grendel, 6.8 SPC, .300 AAC blackout, .450 bushmaster, .458 SOCOM, .50 beowulf ... that's just a few of the more popular options, not even close to a complete list.

chiz_65
05-04-2012, 1:14 PM
you have plenty of choices available besides just 5.56x45 and 7.62x39 -- 6.5 grendel, 6.8 SPC, .300 AAC blackout, .450 bushmaster, .458 SOCOM, .50 beowulf ... that's just a few of the more popular options, not even close to a complete list.

Yeah i started looking at 458 SOCOM options. Rock River Arms and Red Jacket have full upper assemblies for sale. Ammo appears to be $3 or more per round.

hahaha this has become a sickness!!!

calishine
05-04-2012, 9:55 PM
Yeah i started looking at 458 SOCOM options. Rock River Arms and Red Jacket have full upper assemblies for sale. Ammo appears to be $3 or more per round.

hahaha this has become a sickness!!!

just wait till you start getting into optics :)

calishine
05-04-2012, 10:07 PM
Mid-length versus carbine is a well-known debate. Many say that it reduces felt recoil, others contend that it's negligible.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vWtRyZ9EeSk
http://www.03designgroup.com/technotes/carbine-vs-mid-length-gas-system

It's also been argued that you have a longer sight radius, which is true if you're using the A2 FSB.

It's also been argued that the mid-length puts less stress on the BCG so in theory, it should last longer. I believe enough people have been running carbine gas systems to, apparently, refute this.

Modular rail system....tbh I don't really know enough to say why one is better than the other, except to say that you can add other doodads like lights, lasers, etc. lol

No clue on "quality" pieces other than to say that IMHO, you reach a point where you're just paying for the name. Again, I have no experience with this.

For the free float versus drop-in, I found this quote from another forum. Seems to make sense lol


I have a question for you guys asking about lube. I'm going to be using froglube all over the AR, including the BCG. Any reason why I should stop using it and go with a grease or the other 2 oils that were suggested?

Also, is grease better than oil? The reason why I like CLP is because when it dries, it dries to a waxy feel. No oily residue that I can see.

great responses to everything you said monk, I agree completely.

In regards to quality, it really does come down to popularity contest between those particular brands. Both manufacture military spec parts, and have legions of followers. The only reason I give the nod to DD, is because it comes in the mid-length set up.

in regards to lube, I prefer oil to grease for the AR. The viscosity of grease is too thick for my taste. Slip 2000 is a great oil, that is slightly thicker then the off the counter stuff you find that most gun stores, though not as thick as grease.

I do like grease on rails for AK's and pistols. Not for a tight tolerance weapon like an AR.

In regards to frog lube, apparently a lot of people like this stuff. I wish I could offer you an opinion, but I don't have any experience with it.

aalvidrez
05-05-2012, 7:28 AM
When did AR's become a wine and cheese affair? I've seen it many times where guys on forums poopoo someone's choice for an upper and or lower. They usually tout a specific brand... Blah, blah, blah.... My dad is bigger than your dad... Blah blah... It's funny and sad at the same time.


The money in an AR is...... The upper. More specifically... The barrel.

I'm not saying the rest doesn't matter, but as long as its milspec and all the parts fit the right way... It's good.

So.... Spend your money on the upper/barrel. All that matters is that when you pull the trigger it goes bang and the bullets hit where you want. Any grunt will tell you that NO finish will survive real use.

My two cents.

downdiver2
05-05-2012, 7:53 AM
AR upper question.

I ran across an AR15 build thread recently (Cant find it and didn't subscribe :mad: ) and they were showing their lower and their new upper. The upper was purchased from ?? I think it was kelli or kelly guns. Something along those lines. It looks like the upper was made from this company as well. I traveled to their website but its not in my history.

Anyone know what upper / company I am talking about? It might not be Kelli or Kelly it could be something similar but it was a name and guns.

calishine
05-05-2012, 8:23 AM
When did AR's become a wine and cheese affair? I've seen it many times where guys on forums poopoo someone's choice for an upper and or lower. They usually tout a specific brand... Blah, blah, blah.... My dad is bigger than your dad... Blah blah... It's funny and sad at the same time.


The money in an AR is...... The upper. More specifically... The barrel.

I'm not saying the rest doesn't matter, but as long as its milspec and all the parts fit the right way... It's good.

So.... Spend your money on the upper/barrel. All that matters is that when you pull the trigger it goes bang and the bullets hit where you want. Any grunt will tell you that NO finish will survive real use.

My two cents.

There is some sense to what you're saying. I agree that the upper components are vital, but so are the lower components. If you skimp on the lower parts, and it comes with an out of spec trigger--at best youll have a horrible trigger pull, at worst you'll have a nonfunctiong or unsafe trigger.

Some companies claim milspec, but such assertions are dubious. What about quality control? One might need to depend on ones life with said rifle, so I prefer a quality weapon

It not need be expensive. A brand new CA compliant LMT or Colt can be had for around $1100.

aalvidrez
05-05-2012, 9:26 AM
Your right about specs... but there's plenty of quality lowers for sale a lot cheaper than Colt. Im not poopooing it all, just get frustrated when others try to belittle the non-big name suppliers or anyone who puts their own rifle together (frankenguns). Ive got one that is SMOA and never an issue... built it for a little over $700.

Your right about triggers but even then there are alternatives. Quality Gunsmiths that will tune a trigger at a huge fraction of what a G trigger would cost. I took a DPMS trigger, had it tuned by a guy in CO. and total work cost $40. It's around 3.5lbs and excellent.

Again, Im not against people spending more money for LMT etc... its just dont knock others than do it themselves.

Glocker619
05-05-2012, 9:42 AM
Do you HAVE to pin 10/30 magazines? I have built a few of my own and don't want to pin them as I occasionally shoot out of state. It this OK? Any suggestions...

aalvidrez
05-05-2012, 9:50 AM
Yes... the law says its got to be permanent. I like to use 20round bodies as my 10 rounders. Then I use my 30 rounders for out of state use. The 20 round bodies are so I don't mix them up.

I actually have quite a few 30 rounders from my army days (80's-90's) so it isn't really a legal issue for me. I just don't want to go through the hassle of explaining. Oh yah... I have a featureless build. Pinned buttstock, exile grip, and a muzzle break.

intheknow
05-08-2012, 2:50 AM
If there are no markings on the barrel, how can you tell if it is for 5.56 or .223 ?

monk
05-12-2012, 1:38 AM
Do you HAVE to pin 10/30 magazines? I have built a few of my own and don't want to pin them as I occasionally shoot out of state. It this OK? Any suggestions...


It just needs to be permanent. I've heard many people argue that epoxying the magblock to the spring is enough, so that's what I'm running on my pmags.


So I've been curious about this, are hand-stops actually useful or are they just another tacti-cool accessory?

MrPlink
05-12-2012, 2:07 AM
and thats why it sucks.

It is like a 2in1 shampoo/conditioner (ask your wives or girlfriends) v.s. dedicated products.



[QUOTE=aalvidrez;8524883]Yes... the law says its got to be permanent. I like to use 20round bodies as my 10 rounders.

and please show us the Ca definition of permanence when it comes to mag blocks (I'll save you some time, it doesn't exist)


So I've been curious about this, are hand-stops actually useful or are they just another tacti-cool accessory?

is a forward vertical foregrip useful? It is up to you, your rifle, and intended use.

I usually run VFGs or AFGs, so no need for a handstop, but if I was trying to keep things as simple or as light as possible a hand stop isnt a bad option, but I wouldnt cry about not having one either.

strongpoint
05-12-2012, 5:25 PM
If there are no markings on the barrel, how can you tell if it is for 5.56 or .223 ?

i would assume a gunsmith could just measure the chamber ... anyone?

strongpoint
05-12-2012, 5:38 PM
So I've been curious about this, are hand-stops actually useful or are they just another tacti-cool accessory?

that depends. do you have one on your rifle because it looks cool? if so, it's a tacti-cool accessory. do you have it on your rifle because it helps you grip or manipulate the rifle? if so, then it's useful.

like the VFGs and AFGs plink refers to, a handstop is for ergonomics -- making your rifle fit YOU so that you can handle it comfortably. if it (or any of those other accessories) doesn't do that job, it's worthless to you.

mtsul
05-12-2012, 6:21 PM
I just purchased a complete 9mm upper and the mag well block I have a complete plum crazy lower do I need to buy anything else? I ask because I saw online that there is a 9mm hammer and 9mm buffer do I need those? Or will my plum crazy be fine? (Sorry for typos this is from my phone) please pm me the answer as I am on my phone

strongpoint
05-13-2012, 1:21 AM
AR upper question.

I ran across an AR15 build thread recently (Cant find it and didn't subscribe :mad: ) and they were showing their lower and their new upper. The upper was purchased from ?? I think it was kelli or kelly guns. Something along those lines. It looks like the upper was made from this company as well. I traveled to their website but its not in my history.

Anyone know what upper / company I am talking about? It might not be Kelli or Kelly it could be something similar but it was a name and guns.

does this (http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/showpost.php?p=8558274&postcount=16) help?

mtsul
05-13-2012, 9:18 AM
I just purchased a complete 9mm upper and the mag well block I have a complete plum crazy lower do I need to buy anything else? I ask because I saw online that there is a 9mm hammer and 9mm buffer do I need those? Or will my plum crazy be fine? (Sorry for typos this is from my phone) please pm me the answer as I am on my phone

Still wondering to I need to buy a different hammer? And buffer ?

rgs1975
05-13-2012, 9:23 AM
Anyone know if the Stag Model 1 buffer tupe/spring is mil-spec or commercial? I'm looking to put a differenct stock on it and don't know what type to buy to fit the Model 1.

Personmans
05-13-2012, 3:45 PM
Hi all, I had a question about mag sizes.

I know CA says 10 is the limit, so you can't import/build/buy/sell/build/etc a 30rd mag, but if I happen to have a few can I use them in my featureless AR?

Is it likely to get hassled for 30rd mags? If so I'd rather go with a 10rd fixed mag and pistol grip.

Josh3239
05-13-2012, 4:14 PM
Still wondering to I need to buy a different hammer? And buffer ?

9mm hammers are for non-ramped bolt groups. Check the bottom of the bolt carrier group, if it is ramped you don't need a hammer. Yes, you'll need a new buffer. A 9mm AR is not gas operated it is blowback operated, therefore you will need a heavy 9mm buffer.

Anyone know if the Stag Model 1 buffer tupe/spring is mil-spec or commercial? I'm looking to put a differenct stock on it and don't know what type to buy to fit the Model 1.

I googled it and found the answer quickly. It was asked here as well. It is mil spec.

Hi all, I had a question about mag sizes.

I know CA says 10 is the limit, so you can't import/build/buy/sell/build/etc a 30rd mag, but if I happen to have a few can I use them in my featureless AR?

Is it likely to get hassled for 30rd mags? If so I'd rather go with a 10rd fixed mag and pistol grip.

Yes you can use them. I don't care how you got them or when. Unless the state can prove beyond reasonable doubt you illegally acquired them post-2000 your fine. Possession and usage are not illegal. Using it in a properly configured rifle such as a featureless is absolutely legal.

No you won't get hassled. Most people will probably assume they are 10/30s anyway. Those that figure out they are reals 30s will also probably figure out they are pre-bans.

Bottom line if your not breaking any law whats the problem? I am sure you've driven past someone once who thought you ran a red light when you didn't too. Don't worry about it.

MrPlink
05-13-2012, 4:40 PM
Yes you can use them. I don't care how you got them or when. .

truth

acquisition is what is regulated by the PC, nothing else.

Personmans
05-13-2012, 5:11 PM
Yes you can use them. I don't care how you got them or when. Unless the state can prove beyond reasonable doubt you illegally acquired them post-2000 your fine. Possession and usage are not illegal. Using it in a properly configured rifle such as a featureless is absolutely legal.

No you won't get hassled. Most people will probably assume they are 10/30s anyway. Those that figure out they are reals 30s will also probably figure out they are pre-bans.

Bottom line if your not breaking any law whats the problem? I am sure you've driven past someone once who thought you ran a red light when you didn't too. Don't worry about it.

truth

acquisition is what is regulated by the PC, nothing else.

Thanks for the quick and detailed responses.
Looks like I may have to settle for one build at the moment and then just build another down the line if I want my 'evil features'.

calishine
06-30-2012, 9:32 PM
Bump ...still taking questions .....

ramathorn
07-01-2012, 12:12 AM
Would an upper chambered in 7.62 x 39 require special AR15 magazines or would it still use the standard ones for .223?

calishine
07-01-2012, 1:07 AM
You need special mags. Good luck!

monk
07-01-2012, 1:11 AM
When affixing the YHM forearm, do I need to leave a bit of space between the upper receiver and the forearm or is it ok to force that extra turn to get it nice and tight? I mean the forearm itself, not the nut.

calishine
07-01-2012, 8:27 AM
I'm having a hard time picturing the installation for that particular rail, I would imagine it is ok as long as you don't strip anything

I personally would call their tech line to be sure 1-877-892-6533.

garciach1
07-02-2012, 12:54 AM
AR 15 help. . . I want to build a CQC sniper rifle hitting targets around 250-300 yards. Able to hit and light weight if possible. First thing first, uppers...

What will be the best barrel length 18" or 20" and twist? (I'm deciding 18" with 1:8 twist, but is that over kill for my target goals?)

Also Gas tube piston Vs Direct gas... Which one is better for my target setting?

What you think?

siznarf
07-02-2012, 2:59 PM
Will a 16" barrel with a mid-length gas system work with a rifle length hand guard? If yes, how? and which hand guard brand allows this?

thanks

strongpoint
07-02-2012, 3:37 PM
Will a 16" barrel with a mid-length gas system work with a rifle length hand guard? If yes, how? and which hand guard brand allows this?

thanks

yes. install a low-profile gas block, and a railed handguard should fit over it. google "recce rifle" to see examples (this is not necessarily the definition of such a rifle, but many are set up with 16" barrels, low-pro gas blocks and rifle handguards).

if you're worried that a gas block won't fit inside a particular handguard, check with the manufacturers of both.

offdutyalot
07-02-2012, 4:52 PM
What are the differences between A2 and A3?

What distance should I zero my AR? It's just for plinking, HD, and SHTF.......

calishine
07-02-2012, 5:42 PM
A2: Fixed carry handle. Safe/Semi/Burst fire control group.
A3: Fixed carry handle. Safe/Semi/Auto fire control group.

I recommend a 50 yard zero. The reason is at 50 yards you're also zeroed for 200 yards, and any likely defense scenario you'll face will be within 50 yards.

Josh3239
07-02-2012, 11:04 PM
What distance should I zero my AR? It's just for plinking, HD, and SHTF.......

You could do the 50/200 if ya want or the 25/300. Or just zero to the regular range you shoot. 5.56mm is pretty flat shooting really.

AR 15 help. . . I want to build a CQC sniper rifle hitting targets around 250-300 yards. Able to hit and light weight if possible. First thing first, uppers...

What will be the best barrel length 18" or 20" and twist? (I'm deciding 18" with 1:8 twist, but is that over kill for my target goals?)

Also Gas tube piston Vs Direct gas... Which one is better for my target setting?

What you think?

18 vs 20 for this purpose is negligible. Velocity difference is teeny tiny, short barrels can be accurate to 300 yards (not to mention shorter barrels tend to be more rigid). Compare all barrels in those lengths IMO. Personally I'd go with an 18'' rifle length system as you get the longer gas system and a slightly shorter/lighter package.

Twist depends what type of ammo you'll shoot. Bullet length usually translates to weight but not always, that is why people typically say heavier bullets need a faster twist, but it isn't always true. I like faster, 1:7 has no problem shoot 55gr despite what the internet says. Also it typically handles longer/heavier bullets better.

Spoiler before I rant, I don't particularly care for the "piston"/OP rod rifles. HK, LMT, PWS and LWRC make excellent, reliable products no doubt. Just don't like the extra parts, weight, and complications. A gas tube costs $10, "pistons"/op rods a lot more and you will pay for it. Additionally, the lack of an op rod in a DI means it is simpler and less weight and less moving mass. Compared to a long stroke "piston" the additional mass flying back and then slinging forward can throw you off. Short stroke "pistons" are often more complicated and really on extra springs and pins and other parts that can corrode or eventually need replacing. People who whine about cleaning DI's 1) do it wrong and 2) should consider taking up a different hobby like knitting instead.

SURVIVOR619
07-05-2012, 5:57 PM
Any recommendations as to how I can securely tighten my castle nut so after about 200 rounds in a range session it is not loose? Seems to happen to me and might be causing a short stroke symptom towards the end of a range trip..

If I try and tighten it super tight, the entire buffer tube end up canted..

Thanks, Survivor


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk🔫

monk
07-05-2012, 6:29 PM
Any recommendations as to how I can securely tighten my castle nut so after about 200 rounds in a range session it is not loose? Seems to happen to me and might be causing a short stroke symptom towards the end of a range trip..

If I try and tighten it super tight, the entire buffer tube end up canted..

Thanks, Survivor


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk🔫


You could probably use locktite, I'm thinking blue so that it doesn't get welded on there. A more permanent, I imagine, option would be staking.

Josh3239
07-05-2012, 7:17 PM
You really shouldn't loctite that area. I've tried it and when you take it apart you will ruin the threads, they just aren't made for it. YOu should stake, like intended and it isn't permanent.

monk
07-05-2012, 7:26 PM
You really shouldn't loctite that area. I've tried it and when you take it apart you will ruin the threads, they just aren't made for it. YOu should stake, like intended and it isn't permanent.

I've been curious about staking, would you just need to push back the piece you pushed out?

vliberatore
08-21-2012, 9:43 PM
What would you consider "average" groups at 50/100 yards using irons?

monk
08-21-2012, 9:50 PM
What's the "proper" way to sight in an AR? I've noticed that I might not be holding the rifle the same way everytime so I'm wondering if I'm altering the sighting every time I move.

Josh3239
08-22-2012, 8:47 PM
I've been curious about staking, would you just need to push back the piece you pushed out?

You mean to undo it? No, with the right amount of torque the castle nut will loosen.

What would you consider "average" groups at 50/100 yards using irons?

You mean the rifle's true potential or an average shooter's potential? If the later; prone supported, prone unsupported, sitting supported, sitting unsupported, standing?

What's the "proper" way to sight in an AR? I've noticed that I might not be holding the rifle the same way everytime so I'm wondering if I'm altering the sighting every time I move.

I like the 25/300 yard zero. Place the target at 25 yards and adjust accordingly. You should be dead on at 300 yards as well.

For a 100 yard zero, one way is to start at 25, then work out to 50, then to 100yards. There is another way, IIRC, zero 1.25'' below the bullseye at 25 yards.

MrPlink
08-22-2012, 8:54 PM
Who makes the best SPR bbl?

Horton Fenty
08-22-2012, 9:00 PM
What are the differences, if any, between a stripped lower that is legal in California and one that is not?

vliberatore
08-22-2012, 9:25 PM
You

You mean the rifle's true potential or an average shooter's potential? If the later; prone supported, prone unsupported, sitting supported, sitting unsupported, standing?


Average shooter, prone supported and standing

Please!

MrPlink
08-22-2012, 10:28 PM
What are the differences, if any, between a stripped lower that is legal in California and one that is not?

Not counting lowers,rdgistered as machine guns or similar, nothing outside of the roll marks.

monk
08-22-2012, 10:32 PM
Not counting lowers,rdgistered as machine guns or similar, nothing outside of the roll marks.

Them be some deadly roll marks.

rdunaway62
08-23-2012, 1:55 AM
Okay, for what ever reason, I seem to be having difficulty finding info on AR 308 barrels.
I'm looking at picking up a 20 inch barrel. Looking around on the net I found many barrels. But my interest is in what twist rate and recommended bullet weights for a 20" barrel.

Since I like to roll my own, I know there is a optimal window for "bullet weight to twist", this is also in regard to length of barrel. So with all the selections of barrels I'm finding on the net, I would like to get more info on the barrel twist to bullet weight. I've found barrels that have twists of 1x10, 1x10.5, 1x11 even a 1x11.5 and 12. But nowhere have I found the recommended list of bullet weights listed to shoot in any of those twists.

Now I know that there is a lot more to this then just twist rate and bullet weight (BC, etc..) I don't want to get into that right now. But I did see a recommended list of bullet weights somewhere, sometime back when building my 1st AR15. It was a list for the AR15 listed as a window of bullet weights based on the length and twist of a barrel. It gave clear information as what to expect out of a particular barrel length, twist rate and bullet weight. With that information you could make an educated choice of what barrel to get for your needs.

I'd like to look at this type of information so that I can make a better choice when selecting a 308 barrel. There has to be some 308 information similar to what I had found for the AR15. I would think that the AR 308 and it's popularity has been around long enough for this type of data to be collected.

I'm hoping that someone could in point me in the right direction?

Thank you
--
Ron

BigRobb
08-23-2012, 3:06 AM
Found my answer ty!

DocClark340
08-23-2012, 9:48 AM
I'm looking to build a 300 Blackout upper. What would be the best gas system to use?

Do you need to use a different gas tube or one for 5.56?

Carbine?
Mid length?
Rifle length?

rdunaway62
08-24-2012, 12:17 PM
Okay, for what ever reason, I seem to be having difficulty finding info on AR 308 barrels.
I'm looking at picking up a 20 inch barrel. Looking around on the net I found many barrels. But my interest is in what twist rate and recommended bullet weights for a 20" barrel.

Since I like to roll my own, I know there is a optimal window for "bullet weight to twist", this is also in regard to length of barrel. So with all the selections of barrels I'm finding on the net, I would like to get more info on the barrel twist to bullet weight. I've found barrels that have twists of 1x10, 1x10.5, 1x11 even a 1x11.5 and 12. But nowhere have I found the recommended list of bullet weights listed to shoot in any of those twists.

Now I know that there is a lot more to this then just twist rate and bullet weight (BC, etc..) I don't want to get into that right now. But I did see a recommended list of bullet weights somewhere, sometime back when building my 1st AR15. It was a list for the AR15 listed as a window of bullet weights based on the length and twist of a barrel. It gave clear information as what to expect out of a particular barrel length, twist rate and bullet weight. With that information you could make an educated choice of what barrel to get for your needs.

I'd like to look at this type of information so that I can make a better choice when selecting a 308 barrel. There has to be some 308 information similar to what I had found for the AR15. I would think that the AR 308 and it's popularity has been around long enough for this type of data to be collected.

I'm hoping that someone could in point me in the right direction?

Thank you
--
Ron

Never mind, I found my answers on several sights. I must of had a brain fart or something. Bad information search.

Thanx
--
Ron

onegtalon
08-24-2012, 2:07 PM
AR with 16" barrel, free float rail, DI, M16 BCG, PWS Enhanced buffer tube, standard buffer & spring.

Magpul 10/20 refuses to lock back the bolt on the last shot. USGI mags are ok. When I insert the empty magpul and pull the CH it still won't lock back. I did the 10/20 modification where you shave the tabs and you can see that the mag engages the bolt catch (looking thru the ejection port) but when the bolt tries to move foward the magazine follower 'gives' and doesn't hold the bolt back. The USGI mags don't 'give' like this and engages the bolt catch. I also have a Magpul BAD lever and it does the same thing with and w/out the BAD lever installed (so it's not the lever)

Could this be a mag spring issue? The followers in the 10/20 are black if that's any indication of what type of followers are in them.

joelogic
08-24-2012, 2:18 PM
For 300BLK the two systems are usually carbine and pistol. For subs and supers go with carbine.

Same gas tube.

I'm looking to build a 300 Blackout upper. What would be the best gas system to use?

Do you need to use a different gas tube or one for 5.56?

Carbine?
Mid length?
Rifle length?

Bangzoom
08-24-2012, 5:11 PM
ok went to the range today with an Olympic Car-AR...bolt jammed....what parts do i need to order to fix this and how do they go in? and any tips for a good place to order them?

http://i46.tinypic.com/nbrqr6.jpg

spetsnaz
08-24-2012, 5:28 PM
Is the ar platform good rifles? I do not want to have to deal with issues from an ar type rifle, all my firearms function perfect but i dont know much about the ar platform so do not know where to start. I would like to build my own one day. Also i am not interested in the .223 round im leaning more toward the 7.62x39 conversion.

monk
08-24-2012, 5:40 PM
ok went to the range today with an Olympic Car-AR...bolt jammed....what parts do i need to order to fix this and how do they go in? and any tips for a good place to order them?

http://i46.tinypic.com/nbrqr6.jpg

First, go here: http://www.midwayusa.com/General.mvc/Index/Schematics~AR15

This has the schematic with links to all the parts you'll need. Next,

http://www.midwayusa.com/find?&sortby=1&itemsperpage=20&newcategorydimensionid=9684
http://www.midwayusa.com/find?&sortby=1&itemsperpage=20&newcategorydimensionid=9683

Once you've ordered your parts, go here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bpsQqZIKHPs. Tells you exactly what to do.

FYI, I only listed MidwayUSA because of their diagram. You can get parts from lots of places, Bravo Company, DSG Arms, Palmetto State Armory, Amazon, Joe Bob Outfitters, Cabelas, etc. It's ultimately up to you. FYI, MidwayUSA seems to have slightly higher regular prices but they usually have sales going on that offsets the cost. I've bought from all places that I've listed and have had positive experiences with all so...

By the way, I'm surprised as all hell as to how the buffer pushed out that retaining pin. Seems like it wasn't held down by the buffer tube enough. Note that you will, I believe, need to remove the stock and back the buffer tube a bit to be able to slip in the spring and retaining pin. Make sure you bring the tube in enough to catch as much of the retaining pin as you can while leaving the nub able to move freely.

Is the ar platform good rifles? I do not want to have to deal with issues from an ar type rifle, all my firearms function perfect but i dont know much about the ar platform so do not know where to start. I would like to build my own one day. Also i am not interested in the .223 round im leaning more toward the 7.62x39 conversion.

You will get a lot of different views on the AR being "good" or not. Ultimately, it's a great platform that allows a large amount of modification and interchangeability. A regular person can assemble one with a little google knowledge and some basic tools. Personally, I love the AR and wouldn't trade it for an AK, ever.

Check throughout this thread for links to guides and videos on assembling an AR yourself. And if you ever have questions or concerns, post them here and someone is sure to answer.

Bangzoom
08-24-2012, 6:03 PM
By the way, I'm surprised as all hell as to how the buffer pushed out that retaining pin. Seems like it wasn't held down by the buffer tube enough. Note that you will, I believe, need to remove the stock and back the buffer tube a bit to be able to slip in the spring and retaining pin. Make sure you bring the tube in enough to catch as much of the retaining pin as you can while leaving the nub able to move freely.



.

yeah...i didnt really take notice that the stock was ever so slighty not fully seated and that was enough for the retainer to pop up


thx..i know exactly what to do

Scuba Steve33
08-24-2012, 10:16 PM
Just curious, what are some similar uppers to the US Army's M4s? If I were trying to duplicate an Army M4, what is available?

Josh3239
08-24-2012, 10:20 PM
Just curious, what are some similar uppers to the US Army's M4s? If I were trying to duplicate an Army M4, what is available?

The closest your going to get is a 14.5'' chrome lined barrel, M4 government contour, carbine length gas system, and an extended A2 blind pin welded on. Most manufacturers offer a barrel like, BCM actually uses mil-spec metal, other do but I know BCM puts all the QC into it as well.

odslim
08-24-2012, 10:25 PM
What manufacture makes lower parts kit without the grip? I'm trying to locate a LPK with a Ergo grip. So far all I have seen were the MOE or other standard looking grips. Thanks...

Links would be great if so.

monk
08-24-2012, 10:26 PM
The closest your going to get is a 14.5'' chrome lined barrel, M4 government contour, carbine length gas system, and an extended A2 blind pin welded on. Most manufacturers offer a barrel like, BCM actually uses mil-spec metal, other do but I know BCM puts all the QC into it as well.


http://www.bravocompanyusa.com/BCM-M4-14-5-Upper-Receiver-Group-A2X-p/bcm-urg-m4-14%20a2x.htm\


That's gonna by my next upper.

Revolver Ocelot
08-24-2012, 10:41 PM
The closest your going to get is a 14.5'' chrome lined barrel, M4 government contour, carbine length gas system, and an extended A2 blind pin welded on. Most manufacturers offer a barrel like, BCM actually uses mil-spec metal, other do but I know BCM puts all the QC into it as well.

A 14.7 carbine upper will actually look more accurate. You are able to pin a regular A2 birdcage instead of the funky extended one. Bayonets even look up nice and perfectly.


Psa offers them but they only have the hammer forged version in stock right now.

http://palmettostatearmory.com/index.php/ar-15-05/complete-uppers/14-5/psa-14-7-hammer-forged-m4a1-upper.html

monk
08-24-2012, 10:43 PM
What manufacture makes lower parts kit without the grip? I'm trying to locate a LPK with a Ergo grip. So far all I have seen were the MOE or other standard looking grips. Thanks...

Links would be great if so.

http://palmettostatearmory.com/index.php/ar-15-05/lower-parts/parts-kits/ergo-lpk-without-fire-control-black.html


As far as one without the grip, I've been looking around PSA because I thought they had one but no more. Your best option, if you already have a grip, is to buy the parts separately. IIRC you need a fire control group and a lower pin kit.

bikr4jc
08-25-2012, 7:25 AM
Putting our rifles together tonight. Do I need to oil or lube the lower parts as we install?

joelogic
08-25-2012, 8:29 AM
Not really, but you can lube the hammer and trigger pins.

bikr4jc
08-25-2012, 8:45 AM
Thanks!

fishnbeer
08-25-2012, 9:15 AM
what are the exact threads of the grip screw? going to give the set screw mod a try...

joelogic
08-25-2012, 9:28 AM
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_118/448799_What_size_is_the_grip_screw__Now_with_more_ update_.html

dougncrew
08-25-2012, 9:30 AM
I want to get a new upper in a larger caliber but stay with a standard lower. What calibers will feed thru a standard mil spec lower?

chicoredneck
08-25-2012, 9:38 AM
I want to get a new upper in a larger caliber but stay with a standard lower. What calibers will feed thru a standard mil spec lower?

There are lots of options like the large bore revolver like cartridges such as the 450BM, 50BW, and 458SOCOM that sling heavy chunks of lead at slow speeds.

Then there are the intermediate powered cartridges such as the 6.8SPC, 264LMC/6.5G, 300AAC and 7.62X39.

Finally there are the 25WSSM, 243WSSM, and 30OSSM that are full powered cartridges that duplicate the ballistics of the 25-06, 243, and 308.

There are also a number of wildcat cartridges and bench rest/target cartridges of varius calibers and perfromance levels.

joelogic
08-25-2012, 9:38 AM
By standard I assume you mean AR-15 because even an AR-10 is a mil spec lower.

.223
7.62x39
300BLK
6.5 grendel
6.8 spc
50 beowolf
.450
.458 socom

dougncrew
08-25-2012, 9:51 AM
By standard I assume you mean AR-15 because even an AR-10 is a mil spec lower.

.223
7.62x39
300BLK
6.5 grendel
6.8 spc
50 beowolf
.450
.458 socom

Yes. I should have said AR 15.

dougncrew
08-25-2012, 9:52 AM
Oh and thank you for the answers.:beer:

monk
08-25-2012, 10:08 AM
Anyone here have any personal experience with polymer lowers? I'm planning my next assembly to be an ultra light m4gery. Any tips on what I should go with to keep it as light as possible? Looking at 5.56 chambering, pinned 14.5" barrel from BCM. Everything else is open.

Scuba Steve33
08-25-2012, 7:32 PM
The closest your going to get is a 14.5'' chrome lined barrel, M4 government contour, carbine length gas system, and an extended A2 blind pin welded on. Most manufacturers offer a barrel like, BCM actually uses mil-spec metal, other do but I know BCM puts all the QC into it as well.

A 14.7 carbine upper will actually look more accurate. You are able to pin a regular A2 birdcage instead of the funky extended one. Bayonets even look up nice and perfectly.


Psa offers them but they only have the hammer forged version in stock right now.

http://palmettostatearmory.com/index.php/ar-15-05/complete-uppers/14-5/psa-14-7-hammer-forged-m4a1-upper.html

Thanks for the links guys. Saved for one day when I build my own AR hopefully soon.


I can't find the answer to another question I have. I'm on my phone so perhaps the search isn't working as it should.

If I have a pre-ban AR-15, do I still have restrictions to barrel and overall length? Thirty inches is the minimum overall length correct? What constitutes an SBR and does that apply to pre-bans? Is the 14.5 inch uppers the shortest you can go? Thanks.

joelogic
08-25-2012, 8:36 PM
Pre ban and Post ban have nothing to do with being a SBR.
shorter than Federal 26", CA 30", IIRC = SBR
You have to have a barrel at least 16". So 14.5" plus 1.5" or 10.5" plus 5.5".

Scuba Steve33
08-25-2012, 8:49 PM
Pre ban and Post ban have nothing to do with being a SBR.
shorter than Federal 26", CA 30", IIRC = SBR
You have to have a barrel at least 16". So 14.5" plus 1.5" or 10.5" plus 5.5".

Thanks for the reply. What exactly do you mean by 14.5" plus 1.5" or 10.5" plus 5.5"? What is the plus length from, the break?

BenHa
08-25-2012, 8:57 PM
Barrel length have to be at least 16"
so if you have a 14.5" barrel you need a 1.5" muzzle brake, flash hider, or anything that would extend the barrel. Same thing applies to the 10.5 but you need an additional 5.5"

calishine
08-25-2012, 10:33 PM
Glad this thread is still thriving :)

Scuba Steve33
08-26-2012, 1:12 AM
Barrel length have to be at least 16"
so if you have a 14.5" barrel you need a 1.5" muzzle brake, flash hider, or anything that would extend the barrel. Same thing applies to the 10.5 but you need an additional 5.5"

Thank you sir.

ap1040
08-26-2012, 4:59 PM
Have 2 questions . . . . I do not have an AR type rifle (yet) so please keep flame to a minimum :D

I want to get a 5.56 AR type rifle and convert it to 22LR for less expensive range time. I already have 3 22LR rifles so want this one to be a combo setup.

1. If I get a 5.56 AR rifle, like the CMMG M4 LE http://www.cmmginc.com/product_p/55ae160.htm
It would need a bullet button. If I change out the 5.56 upper and put a 22LR upper on it, can I remove the BB or will it still be needed since the lower is stamped 556 or multi?

2. If on the other hand I get a 22LR AR rifle, like the CMMG 22 M4 LE http://www.cmmginc.com/CMMG_22_M4_LE_p/22a7c20.htm
will I need to permanently put a BB on it if I get a 556 upper as well or can the bb be taken off when the 22 upper is on?

I know CMMG makes a conversion bolt for turning the 556 upper into a 22lr but at the moment thinking of getting separate dedicated uppers.

Thanks.

Josh3239
08-26-2012, 5:45 PM
1. If I get a 5.56 AR rifle, like the CMMG M4 LE http://www.cmmginc.com/product_p/55ae160.htm
It would need a bullet button. If I change out the 5.56 upper and put a 22LR upper on it, can I remove the BB or will it still be needed since the lower is stamped 556 or multi?

The stamping is just a stamping. It isn't law. If it says carbine on it you can make it a rifle, if it says 5.56mm on it you can make it 7.62x39, if it says LE/LEO/Law Enforcement it isn't only to be used by police.

If it fires .22LR it doesn't need a BB.

2. If on the other hand I get a 22LR AR rifle, like the CMMG 22 M4 LE http://www.cmmginc.com/CMMG_22_M4_LE_p/22a7c20.htm
will I need to permanently put a BB on it if I get a 556 upper as well or can the bb be taken off when the 22 upper is on?

No bullet button is permanent. The mag catch is threaded, the BB shroud fills the magazine release hole and a nut is tightened down inside the shroud over the mag catch securing both in place. Pushing the nut, threaded onto the mag catch, pushes the mag catch back and releases the magazine.

Just get a Raddlock. If your shooting .22LR turn the screw and have drop free mags. If your shooting 5.56mm, turn the screw the other way and turn the release into a BB.

I know CMMG makes a conversion bolt for turning the 556 upper into a 22lr but at the moment thinking of getting separate dedicated uppers.

Thanks.[/QUOTE]

Rareform
08-26-2012, 9:42 PM
I have some what built my first ar and it won't cycle, the bolt does not move at all when the rife is fired. I used a jd machine lower and a dpms kit, timney trigger. Then I bought a complete upper from jd machine it is a century arms chrome lined 1-7 twist. The bolt and charging handle I bought with the upper at the same time. Could anything I have done be the problem or does it have to do with the gas tube? I only ask because I sent the upper to jd and they said they fixed, fired it and sent it back. I took it out and it did the same thing as before I also put a friends dpms upper on it and it ran fine. I just would like some advice before I call. If they can't fix the problem is they any good gunsmiths in the Rancho cucamonga area anybody could recommend?
Thanks

monk
08-26-2012, 10:23 PM
I have some what built my first ar and it won't cycle, the bolt does not move at all when the rife is fired. I used a jd machine lower and a dpms kit, timney trigger. Then I bought a complete upper from jd machine it is a century arms chrome lined 1-7 twist. The bolt and charging handle I bought with the upper at the same time. Could anything I have done be the problem or does it have to do with the gas tube? I only ask because I sent the upper to jd and they said they fixed, fired it and sent it back. I took it out and it did the same thing as before I also put a friends dpms upper on it and it ran fine. I just would like some advice before I call. If they can't fix the problem is they any good gunsmiths in the Rancho cucamonga area anybody could recommend?
Thanks

When you say it doesn't move, are you able to pull the charging handle back? When you do, does it move freely? I'm thinking, in my amateur opinion, a gas tube issue. Either placement or it might be clogged. Is your bolt carrier key, where the gas tube sits, dirty?

If, however, the bolt doesn't cycle manually, maybe issue with the buffer/tube? Such as too heavy a buffer.

BTW, I assume it's an AR15 or AR10 correct?

ap1040
08-26-2012, 10:55 PM
No bullet button is permanent. The mag catch is threaded, the BB shroud fills the magazine release hole and a nut is tightened down inside the shroud over the mag catch securing both in place. Pushing the nut, threaded onto the mag catch, pushes the mag catch back and releases the magazine.

Just get a Raddlock. If your shooting .22LR turn the screw and have drop free mags. If your shooting 5.56mm, turn the screw the other way and turn the release into a BB.


Thanks Josh that is good news to hear.

Rareform
08-27-2012, 10:06 AM
When you say it doesn't move, are you able to pull the charging handle back? When you do, does it move freely? I'm thinking, in my amateur opinion, a gas tube issue. Either placement or it might be clogged. Is your bolt carrier key, where the gas tube sits, dirty?

If, however, the bolt doesn't cycle manually, maybe issue with the buffer/tube? Such as too heavy a buffer.

BTW, I assume it's an AR15 or AR10 correct?

Yes it's a ar-15
The charging handle move freely I pull the charging handle and it will eject a case and reload another round but it will not eject a case or reload a case by itself. The gas tube is clear when I took the gas block loose it seemed not to line up that's when I sent it back

Josh3239
08-27-2012, 5:54 PM
This is sounds that it is without a doubt a gas issue.

1) If your gas block is adjustable open it up.

See any set screws or knurled nuts around. If they are start cranking and see if that opens anything up. If there are none, your gas block isn't adjustable. Most gas blocks are not, but I figured I'd throw it out there.

2) It is a Century barrel, it is very possible there is no gas port.

Century has a reputation of having poor QC. The bolt group not moving is not indicative of low gas, it is indicative of no gas. Therefore it is completely possible that they sent out a barrel without a gas port. Look down the barrel and see if you can see it or rip of your gas block. Or change barrels.

3) Your gas block could be completely off or build incorrectly.

Either your gas block is completely missing gas port, it doesn't have a hole for the gas port, or there is a leak. I'd rip the gas block off.

4) Your gas tube could have been installed incorrectly or damaged.

If your gas tube has a leak, that would be a big problem. It is also possible it was installed upside down. If so, to check you'd tap out the pin in the gas block holding the tube in place. Pull the tube and check to see if the hole is facing downwards, it is absolutely possible the hole is facing up and not catching any gas. Look through it, make sure it isn't clogged.

5) Loose gas key.

I doubt this because you'd probably get serious short stroking not no movement at all but it is worth checking. Hows the fit of your gas key. It should be tight, no wobble or looseness at all.

I have some what built my first ar and it won't cycle, the bolt does not move at all when the rife is fired. I used a jd machine lower and a dpms kit, timney trigger. Then I bought a complete upper from jd machine it is a century arms chrome lined 1-7 twist. The bolt and charging handle I bought with the upper at the same time. Could anything I have done be the problem or does it have to do with the gas tube? I only ask because I sent the upper to jd and they said they fixed, fired it and sent it back. I took it out and it did the same thing as before I also put a friends dpms upper on it and it ran fine. I just would like some advice before I call. If they can't fix the problem is they any good gunsmiths in the Rancho cucamonga area anybody could recommend?
Thanks

bikr4jc
08-28-2012, 6:04 AM
Just bought some PMAGS 10/30 Magizines from Rifle Gear, do I need to expoxy the bottoms on them so they cannot be open or converted?? It seem the bottom plate can be opened but I did not try to open.

monorailboy
08-28-2012, 6:16 AM
How can I ensure the low pro gas block in lined up correctly over such a small hole ?

joelogic
08-28-2012, 9:07 AM
I use a wax pen and mark a line from the gas port towards the receiver about an inch long. Then line up the gas tube to the line.

If you have an air compressor, block the muzzle end of the barrel and blow air into the extention. Twist gas block until the air coming out of the gas tube is the loudest.

But don't worry too much. AR's are usually over gassed so if you are a little off it will be fine.

SocomM4
08-28-2012, 9:24 AM
How can I ensure the low pro gas block in lined up correctly over such a small hole ?

I use a playing card. Wrap it around the barrel with the edge of the card being used as a straight edge. Then make a mark in line with the gas port.

The gas block has an oversized inlet like an upside down funnel, so you can be off a few degrees.

monorailboy
08-28-2012, 9:37 AM
I use a wax pen and mark a line from the gas port towards the receiver about an inch long. Then line up the gas tube to the line.

If you have an air compressor, block the muzzle end of the barrel and blow air into the extention. Twist gas block until the air coming out of the gas tube is the loudest.

But don't worry too much. AR's are usually over gassed so if you are a little off it will be fine.

Thanks !

monk
08-28-2012, 10:55 AM
Just bought some PMAGS 10/30 Magizines from Rifle Gear, do I need to expoxy the bottoms on them so they cannot be open or converted?? It seem the bottom plate can be opened but I did not try to open.

There is much discussion about this. I assume you have a magblock. What I did was epoxy the magblock to the spring. Imo, you can't force another round in, if you disassemble it it's just parts. And trying to remove the block will be tricky without messing it up.

raymond200m
08-28-2012, 12:51 PM
After reading this post I think anyone with a AR or AK is in danger of going to jail. There is just too many BS laws as to what is acceptable and what is not. Ignorance of the law is not a defense for us but it is for the cops. What happens if a cop asked me why I donít have a BB on my AK or AR and I tell him its registered with the DOJ as a RAW, how does he verify if I am telling the truth or not? is he going to tell me have a nice day and be on your way or will he confiscate them to make sure its registered? And if confiscated will I ever get them back?

joelogic
08-28-2012, 1:00 PM
You should carry your RAW letter with you. A lot of people shrink them down, laminate them and put them in their range bag.

raymond200m
08-28-2012, 1:19 PM
You should carry your RAW letter with you. A lot of people shrink them down, laminate them and put them in their range bag.

I do take it with me but i don't think it will save me if a cop wants to arrest me. that letter looks like a joke anyone can Photoshop it or just use Word to make one. don't get me wrong i am not basing on cops or saying that every cop want to arrest lawful citizens, but there is always that one *** that just wants to ruin your day.

joelogic
08-28-2012, 1:46 PM
This is not relevant to the thread topic. If you don't feel comfortable then don't do it.

raymond200m
08-28-2012, 1:53 PM
This is not relevant to the thread topic. If you don't feel comfortable then don't do it.

i know i got off topic, just got mad as i learned how ridicules the law is. i always thought its black and white not gray.

USAbodypilot
08-28-2012, 2:22 PM
By standard I assume you mean AR-15 because even an AR-10 is a mil spec lower.

.223
7.62x39
300BLK
6.5 grendel
6.8 spc
50 beowolf
.450
.458 socom

Don't forget the AK74 round... 5.45x39 - it's an awesome and cheap round. Adams Arms makes a great upper for it, I love mine :-)

joelogic
08-28-2012, 2:26 PM
He asked for bigger than .223, IIRC. Otherwise I would have listed all the pistol calibers as well.

monk
08-28-2012, 9:02 PM
Any tips on sighting in an AR with an RDS? In particular, the lucid hd7? I was having a hell of a time this sunday before I realized the sight was loose. However, even after tighting it it seemed to be jumping all over. I was using the 2x magnifier at 50yds. Should I start at 25 yards just to get a basis? I'm using a grip pod as my tripod. Should I be a certain distance from the RDS? I was just using the 2x to make it easier, but after reading a bit I think it's affecting the sighting in as well.

onegtalon
08-28-2012, 9:37 PM
Any tips on sighting in an AR with an RDS? In particular, the lucid hd7? I was having a hell of a time this sunday before I realized the sight was loose. However, even after tighting it it seemed to be jumping all over. I was using the 2x magnifier at 50yds. Should I start at 25 yards just to get a basis? I'm using a grip pod as my tripod. Should I be a certain distance from the RDS? I was just using the 2x to make it easier, but after reading a bit I think it's affecting the sighting in as well.

I don't have experience with the Lucid but if you're having issues sight in at 25 yards without the 2x mag. Are you having paralax issues with the sight/magnifer? Good cheek weld? I'm assuming you're doing this on a bench since you mentioned the grip pod.

Also are you using ammo that you know is consistant? I was using AE223 Black box (wally world kind) 55gr and that stuff shoots like crap in my 1:7 AR. It took me awhile before I figured PMC shot better. AMMO-vs-Gun? everyone's different. (now I finally got my scope zeroed in).

ap1040
08-29-2012, 9:35 PM
Question about AR lowers . . . . . will a 556 mil spec lower accept a 9mm upper or have to get a separate one to shoot 9mm (instead of just changing the upper)?

I know 308 upper can't be used with a 556 lower but wondered about 9mm.

Thanks.

Josh3239
08-29-2012, 9:38 PM
9mm upper is exactly the same as the 5.56mm upper except the 9mm upper doesn't have a hole drilled for a gas tube because a 9mm is blowback, not gas operated.

monk
08-29-2012, 9:42 PM
I don't have experience with the Lucid but if you're having issues sight in at 25 yards without the 2x mag. Are you having paralax issues with the sight/magnifer? Good cheek weld? I'm assuming you're doing this on a bench since you mentioned the grip pod.

Also are you using ammo that you know is consistant? I was using AE223 Black box (wally world kind) 55gr and that stuff shoots like crap in my 1:7 AR. It took me awhile before I figured PMC shot better. AMMO-vs-Gun? everyone's different. (now I finally got my scope zeroed in).

Curious you should mention AE223 as that's exactly what I was shooting. Coincidentally my barrel is 1:7 also. I knew ammo would be an issue but I figured at 50yds at least it would be good. So I'll need to find some PMC then.

As far as parallax, I think the lucid is free of it without the mag so I'll deff get rid of it while I sight it in. Cheek weld...I'd be lying if I said I have a specific comment on this but all I can say is that it feels like I have good weld.

So looks like I need to do some work, getting better ammo in particular. Thanks man.

ap1040
08-29-2012, 10:06 PM
9mm upper is exactly the same as the 5.56mm upper except the 9mm upper doesn't have a hole drilled for a gas tube because a 9mm is blowback, not gas operated.

Thanks Josh, I didn't make my question clear sorry.

Can I use a 556 lower with a 9mm upper or do I need a different size lower?

joelogic
08-29-2012, 10:17 PM
You can use the same lower if you are going to mag block route but there are some really cool 9mm specific lowers.
http://www.shop.doublediamondsupply.com/AR15-Glock-Mag-Lower-Receiver-DDARGL.htm

onegtalon
08-29-2012, 11:19 PM
Sorry, I'm pretty damn sure this has been asked before.....

(1) What are the part changes from a 5.56/.223 AR to a .300 Blackout? (Pretty sure only the barrel) I've seen other sites that say the Lower/BCG is the same.

(2) Is this worth it or just go full on 308? (I'm looking for another AR in 5.56 in another twist but a few more AR's in other calibers...

(3) I've got a 1:7 twist 16".... should I get a 1:9 16"? (your opinions please)

(3) Thanks!

The AR I got now is honestly my first ever AR..... shooting at 50 and 100 yards. (beginner on rifles compared to HG's since i've been around pistols longer). Current AR is 16" 1:7 twist, flat top, Nikon 4.5-14 (forgot the specs) scope, Magpul sights, 6-9" bipod.... shooting ok but was wondering if I should get another one in 1:9?

S--t! I got BRD.... I'll just build another one already.... screw it... LOL..

SKSer
08-29-2012, 11:36 PM
i love this, this is like live calguns customer service support, i will try and help a bit, Ive built quite a few and have helped alot of friends get on the right track.

SKSer
08-29-2012, 11:42 PM
(3) I've got a 1:7 twist 16".... should I get a 1:9 16"? (your opinions please)



my most recent build is a 1:7, i like it more then the 1:9 's ive had in the past. So far ive only shot 55gr out of it, and it is supposed to be better for heavier/longer bullets, but it shot the 55gr great. I also thought it was gonna be even more of a horror story with the .22 conversion, but it seemed to shoot that better then the 1:9 which goes even more against the theory of the twist rate, bullet length/weight.

onegtalon
08-30-2012, 12:06 AM
my most recent build is a 1:7, i like it more then the 1:9 's ive had in the past. So far ive only shot 55gr out of it, and it is supposed to be better for heavier/longer bullets, but it shot the 55gr great. I also thought it was gonna be even more of a horror story with the .22 conversion, but it seemed to shoot that better then the 1:9 which goes even more against the theory of the twist rate, bullet length/weight.

You know what's funny? My 1:7 loves PMC 55gr. Hates the blackbox AE 223 55gr.

Fed 5.56 XM193 is ok, so is Hornady steel cased 223 55 gr training ammo.

Freedom munition 62 Gr? It loves it!

I'm so confusicated.... LoL..

Then again I don't think I'm a good rifle shooter yet... But I'm hooked on it like CRACK!!!!

Btw.. I had a 22 conversion and my 5.56/.223 barrel hated it! I ended up with a dedicated 22 instead. (CMMG conversion was key-holing at 10 yards!)

Tolerance stack up....




Sent from my iPhone...

joelogic
08-30-2012, 12:12 AM
See red

Sorry, I'm pretty damn sure this has been asked before.....

(1) What are the part changes from a 5.56/.223 AR to a .300 Blackout? (Pretty sure only the barrel) I've seen other sites that say the Lower/BCG is the same.
You only need to replace the barrel.
(2) Is this worth it or just go full on 308? (I'm looking for another AR in 5.56 in another twist but a few more AR's in other calibers...
Personal decision, 308 is a complete other rifle.
(3) I've got a 1:7 twist 16".... should I get a 1:9 16"? (your opinions please)
You have it backwards. Pick your ammo and then pick your twist.
(3) Thanks!

The AR I got now is honestly my first ever AR..... shooting at 50 and 100 yards. (beginner on rifles compared to HG's since i've been around pistols longer). Current AR is 16" 1:7 twist, flat top, Nikon 4.5-14 (forgot the specs) scope, Magpul sights, 6-9" bipod.... shooting ok but was wondering if I should get another one in 1:9?
1:8 is my preferred.
S--t! I got BRD.... I'll just build another one already.... screw it... LOL..

onegtalon
08-30-2012, 1:06 AM
Thanks,

(1) - I figured... just need confirmation on that one.
(2) - Yes I know... just wanted an opinon.. mabye based on ammo cost -vs- new build etc...
(3) - please explain. I already got .223 in 55 and 62 gr. 5.56 in 55gr. I know of other folks here that have both 1:7 and 1:9, just wanted to know why you have both (other than 'I gotta have another EBR etc')

Josh3239
08-30-2012, 10:49 AM
People worry about bullet weight too much. I have a 1:7 and have never had a problem shooting 55gr. The military uses a 1:7 and has 55gr. Don't overthink it. I was always told it was better to overstabilize than under. If it really matters, I'd say stick with 1:7 or 1:8 twists, I just like faster twists better. Your rifle isn't going to blow up and the round isn't going to nose dive the dirt in front of you if you shoot 50gr out of a faster twist.

Rareform
08-30-2012, 3:01 PM
Yes it's a ar-15
The charging handle move freely I pull the charging handle and it will eject a case and reload another round but it will not eject a case or reload a case by itself. The gas tube is clear when I took the gas block loose it seemed not to line up that's when I sent it back

So today I drove 2hrs to jd machine and it took them 20 min to fix the problem i was told the gas block hole was not big enough. I find that odd, l would have thought that you would not drill the same more than once. So I went straight to the nearest range to test fire the gun. l was not going 2hrs home to find that it would not fire for the 3rd time so l went to discount gun mart about 5 min away from jd and tested the rifle it shot great.

So to recap l bought a 5.56 upper complete from jd at the ontario gun show took it out and it would not cycle.
Called jd and sent it to them to be fixed and test fired.
When it returned in 2 weeks because they only test fire one day a week
it did the same exact thing. I called they said to ship it back. Not a chance l was going to play that again.

I will say it is a very nice upper but the customer service could have been better.

However I can not say enough good things about the discount gun mart that place was by far the nicest indoor range l have ever seen. There is a computer like screen in every lane that you input how many feet you want your target and it takes off down the lane. By the looks of it the computer does more than that but l couldn't tell you. The service was great and the place was clean.

Droppin Deuces
08-30-2012, 3:09 PM
You never answered my question.

raymond200m
08-30-2012, 4:04 PM
My AR is a 16 inch heavy barrel. I want to free float it. I want to put a 12 inch tube. I don’t want it to be covered in rails, because i am not going to put any attachments, I just need to be able to mount a front collapsible sight. So my question is if I put at 12 inch alloy tube how much heavier will it be? I don’t need to know actual weight of it just how it will feel. This is not a bench gun i never shoot it from the bench. The gun is already heavy in the front, its almost as heavy as my AK and it will be a waste of money if it becomes so heavy that its uncomfortable to shoot.

joelogic
08-30-2012, 4:33 PM
Why do you want to free float it if you never shoot from a bench? They make smooth tubes but they are at least 2-3 times heavier than plastic handguards. You can put a rail on the top so you can use a folding front sight.

The why will allow for better answers.

raymond200m
08-30-2012, 7:09 PM
when i am shooting i like to grab the front of the rifle as far out as possible, for me its more stable. If i had a full length handquards i would leave it alone. i made a mistake when i got this upper i should have gotten a standard barrel and full length handguards.

Josh3239
08-30-2012, 9:50 PM
I like the Viking Tactics TRX handguards.

joelogic
09-01-2012, 8:48 PM
@Raymond, just sell your upper and buy the one you want. That heavy barrel would get old quick after a full day of shooting.

bloodhawke83
09-01-2012, 8:51 PM
My AR is a 16 inch heavy barrel. I want to free float it. I want to put a 12 inch tube. I donít want it to be covered in rails, because i am not going to put any attachments, I just need to be able to mount a front collapsible sight. So my question is if I put at 12 inch alloy tube how much heavier will it be? I donít need to know actual weight of it just how it will feel. This is not a bench gun i never shoot it from the bench. The gun is already heavy in the front, its almost as heavy as my AK and it will be a waste of money if it becomes so heavy that its uncomfortable to shoot.

They make carbon fiber tubes.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

gesundheit
09-02-2012, 11:06 AM
My question is about cleaning.

Doing a google search on cleaning ARs gives about 30+ different recommendations on tools, chemicals and methods.

Previously in this thread it was mentioned that SLIP 2000 is a better alternative to CLP on account of it being more viscous. Also that CLP is like a shampoo/conditioner in one and may not be as good as dedicated product. What about the brushes, patches, cleaning rod, cleaner, degreaser, oil, bore guide?

I know it is a loaded word, but which ones would you consider the best in your opinion? I was told that not all the parts are made the same.

joelogic
09-02-2012, 11:34 AM
Cleaning your gun could be a whole other thread.
Just what I use/do.

Slip 2000, cleaner and extreme weapon lube.
Chamber brush, bore brush, bore mop. Light blast of brake cleaner for the extension. Ripped up paper towel as the patch.

Blast extension. Spray bore. Scrub chamber. Scrub bore. Run a patch. If clean stop, if dirty, scrub more.

Disassemble bcg. Spray and wipe clean. Lube and reassemble.

onegtalon
09-02-2012, 12:01 PM
Anyone else running a FA M16 BCG? Is so what buffer weight are you running? I'm running this BCG and a standard weight buffer, no issues yet but would like to know if I could run a heavier buffer w/out issues... (standard spring too)


Sent from my iPhone...

joelogic
09-02-2012, 5:26 PM
I use a m16 carrier and a standard buffer without problem. I don't under why people go with heavier buffers.

onegtalon
09-02-2012, 8:49 PM
I use a m16 carrier and a standard buffer without problem. I don't under why people go with heavier buffers.

I dunno why either... guess I should have redone my question... (1) what do you run and (2) why do people go with heaver buffers? I guess I don't understand the benefits (if any) yet....

joelogic
09-02-2012, 9:09 PM
People usually replace parts to make up for other parts not working together. Sure the AR is endlessly upgradable but with all these different manufactures the stacked tolerances lead to problems. People usually buy heavy buffers because the system is overgased and causing extraction problem. Heavy buffers slow down the system timing. People also think it lessens felt recoil because the operating system moves slower.

Josh3239
09-02-2012, 9:17 PM
Also more mass returning the bolt to battery will make it more reliable, lesser chance of a failure of the bolt to close. Recoil impulse feels better to me as well.

WAMO556
09-02-2012, 9:20 PM
Hey folks,

I am going to throw this out there to see what comes up. I recently became aware that CMMG was going to offer a AR in 5.7x28mm in calendar year 2012. But it doesn't look like this is going to happen. I have reviewed the AR57 upper And not interested in that particular upper. However, I am interested in learning about manufactures of AR variants that are chambered in this caliber. All ears. Thanks in advance.

joelogic
09-02-2012, 9:30 PM
Not sure where you are located but not being able to have a 50rd mag in CA kills it for me. But I just love how the spent cases dump out the magwell and you can put a stripped mag in as a brass catcher.

A fellow calgunners video.
FCNh3EeNJlo

smog7
09-02-2012, 11:00 PM
What is the point of using a fully auto BCG in a semi auto rifle?

Should I buy a spare lower parts kit just in case parts brake/wear?

Josh3239
09-02-2012, 11:11 PM
What is the point of using a fully auto BCG in a semi auto rifle?

It is slightly heavier, thats it. More mass returning the bolt to battery will make it more reliable and reduce bolt bounce.


Should I buy a spare lower parts kit just in case parts brake/wear?

It isn't gonna hurt. You'd have to shoot ALOT to wear out the lower parts. The first part to go in the lower will probably be the buffer spring and that will be several thousand rounds.

madballjs
09-12-2012, 9:41 AM
I'm getting ready to buy my upper for my first AR build. i wanted to get some input from anyone that has owned these uppers. how was the quality of the upper. any other information on either of the uppers would be much appreciated.

:confused:

bikr4jc
09-12-2012, 1:01 PM
Question, can I have one upper (223) and two lowers one EBR and one featureless and carry both 10 & 30 round mags? I know I can only use my 30 round with featureless lower, but carrying everything together to the range. Is that legal?

joelogic
09-12-2012, 1:04 PM
Constructive possession applies to Federal laws. So, yes you can since you are talking about CA AW laws. But make sure the upper uses a brake not a flashhider.

Josh3239
09-12-2012, 1:41 PM
I'm getting ready to buy my upper for my first AR build. i wanted to get some input from anyone that has owned these uppers. how was the quality of the upper. any other information on either of the uppers would be much appreciated.

:confused:

Personally, I think you are talking about two different extremes, one side (Del-Ton) attempts to put out a range AR at an affordable price and the other side (BCM) attempted to make an AR for the two-way range as close to the military TDP as can be, while they sell to regular joes their target buyers are LE, military, and fighters. BCM puts more QC into not just fit and finish but barrel and bolt group quality (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m_4CskJJxvY&list=PL165CFFCEC5382B2A&index=46&feature=plpp_video). Paul's (BCM's) rifles have proven themselves extremely well in carbine classes as well (http://mscg.yuku.com/topic/5658). Endorsed by Pat Rogers as well (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CK0LzIp_g7c&feature=autoplay&list=PL165CFFCEC5382B2A&playnext=1).

If your looking for an inexpensive range plinker, DTI is a good choice. And there is nothing wrong with it. They both go bang when you pull the trigger. But if you want some more quality, influenced by military specs go with BCM. And there is nothing wrong with buying high quality either.

And yes, I've owned both.

DocClark340
09-12-2012, 2:26 PM
Mil-Spec Vs. Commercial buffer tube

Subjective question?

I was told I should always go Mil-Spec when there is an option to. The reasoning I was given was overall weight is less then the commercial and more available stock types options.

On the other side of the coin, Joe-Bob told me to stick with Commercial; the tube is thicker so it will help to quite the ďBrong-BrongĒ sound of the buffer reciprocating in the tube because the tube is thicker.

So given the option which one would be best?

What about the Spikes Tactical ST-2 tungsten buffer, dose that make it quieter in a Mil-Spec tube?

:rolleyes: :confused: :confused: :confused: :rolleyes:

joelogic
09-12-2012, 2:30 PM
Mil spec is thinner and made stronger hence more expensive. Buy what is in your price range.

Lithium grease quiets down the sprong.

Mil is better.

I havent heard of a buffer that make the noise less except of course for the JP silent captured spring.

DocClark340
09-12-2012, 2:35 PM
Mil spec is thinner and made stronger hence more expensive. Buy what is in your price range.

Lithium grease quiets down the sprong.

Mil is better.

I havent heard of a buffer that make the noise less except of course for the JP silent captured spring.


Description
Lower Parts - Spike's ST-T2 Heavy Buffer
larger image
Lower Parts - Spike's ST-T2 Heavy Buffer
$32.95

http://www.spikestactical.com/new/z/images/prodimg/SLA00T2.jpg

Introduction
Looking for a heavy buffer to replace your standard carbine buffer? Well, we came up with something that offers the HIGHEST performance at a reasonable price. The ST-T2 buffer is one of the softest shooting, smoothest, and quietest buffers on the market; not to mention it looks awesome! It doesn't have any weights to move around or fluids to leak out like some other buffers, so it's 100% maintenance free!

The ST-T2 buffer weighs in at 115g/4.05oz. (Depending on the density and size of the HDTP, the weight can vary slightly) and the body is CNC machined from solid billet Aluminum bar stock for strength and durability. To finish it all off, it's Anodized matte black and laser engraved with our Logo.

So you're probably wondering what's inside of this thing to make this thing so great and different?

Each ST-T2 buffer is filled with HDTP which is short for "High Density Tungsten Powder" and topped off with a Mil-Spec bumper. Because of this, there arenít any reciprocating weights inside to make a lot of noise and it also makes for a very smooth cycling rifle. The ST-T2 eliminates the chance of bolt bounce, helps with muzzle rise when firing in full-auto, and cuts down on felt recoil. As you can tell, it's a HUGE upgrade from a Standard Carbine buffer! It's designed for .223/5.56 but it works in all Calibers!

Get one for your AR-15 today and feel the difference!

NOTE: Actual weight can vary between 4.0oz and 4.2oz.

Features

Solid aluminum billet construction
Mil-Spec bumper
100% maintinence free
Tough Anodized finish

the donald
10-04-2012, 7:39 PM
i am going to build my first rifle(s) i am going to be getting some help from a FFL friend who is based out of a free state.

what do i need to avoid? i have my lowers already.
would there be issues if it is set up as a full auto but missing a part?

wash
10-04-2012, 7:45 PM
That "Mil-spec is thinner so it is made stronger" line is a bunch of crap.

Mil-spec is Mil-spec so it's not going anywhere. Commercial spec is totally unnecessary and if it dies we would be left with only one spec and that is a good thing.

Anyone suggesting a commercial spec stock just isn't thinking straight.

bigbadbleu
10-05-2012, 9:20 PM
Ok Here is my question! What is the difference or how do you classify a1, a2, a3, or a4?

sharxbyte
10-05-2012, 9:22 PM
If I ask my AR questions, How will I know if it's answering? It's never seemed to respond to verbal interactions before o.O

strongpoint
10-05-2012, 11:44 PM
Should I buy a spare lower parts kit just in case parts brake/wear?

an entire LPK seems like overkill. (i would imagine that, say, your safety detent spring is unlikely to fail of its own volition.) a few vendors out there sell kits with the parts that are most likely to break.


Ok Here is my question! What is the difference or how do you classify a1, a2, a3, or a4?

you could always start here (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M16_rifle#Variants).


If I ask my AR questions, How will I know if it's answering? It's never seemed to respond to verbal interactions before o.O

mine never answers direct questions. it just keeps shooting its mouth off.

Son of BAR7
10-09-2012, 4:59 PM
For anyone looking at Piston uppers, or conversion kits, I found an informative Master's Thesis on the subject.

Very interesting reading.

http://www.ewp.rpi.edu/hartford/~ernesto/SPR/LeBlanc-FinalReport.pdf

After reading that thesis, the Armalite paper on DI, and the piece from AR15barrels.com about the function of gas systems (pistol, car, mid, & rifle, Linked below), I have come to the conclusion that since I am not dragging my rifles through mud bogs and/or swamps, and I typically clean them every 100 rounds or so, piston systems do not seem to offer a significant advantage, and seems to be disadvantageous in a couple ways, namely the oft mentioned wear due to tilt caused by the asymmetric loading of the gas piston on the bolt carrier, but also (and this barely mentioned in any literature I've seen, so may be insignificant) an increase in wear and strain on the lugs of the bolt and barrel extension not present in DI actions. In DI actions, when the BCG cam is rotating the bolt, the bolt is essentially free floating due to gas expanding behind it; the bolt and carrier are forced apart, the bolt towards the barrel, and the carrier towards the buffer, engaging the cam and rotating the bolt. With a piston system, the bolt is forced back with the carrier, the bolt lugs impact the barrel extension lugs, then the cam engages forcing the bolt to rotate, presumable while the lugs are still butted against each other under high pressure, a condition that could conceivably cause deformation of the lugs over time.
If anyone out there has any thoughts on this, I’d like to hear another take on the issue.

In any case, I’m linking to these resources as it finally helped me make the decision WRT AR piston systems, and may help others.

http://www.armalite.com/images/Tech%20Notes%5CTECH%20NOTE%20104%20DESIGN%20AND%20 RELIABILITY%20OF%20ARs%20120222%20Rev%200%20Final. pdf

http://www.ar15barrels.com/prod/operation.shtml

jcaliburr
10-09-2012, 9:21 PM
Silly questions but how do you guys maintain the exterior of the rifle? Are metal parts to be kept lightly oiled? What can be used on the plastic parts?

Booba340
10-10-2012, 9:45 AM
I bought an 80% lower from a gun show and the 20% that needs to be done is the magwell. Does anyone know where I can get the rest completed at in San Diego? From the little research I have done I have found out that not many people do that part and it is the hardest to do. Any suggestions would be great.

joelogic
10-10-2012, 9:40 PM
Silly questions but how do you guys maintain the exterior of the rifle? Are metal parts to be kept lightly oiled? What can be used on the plastic parts?

Aluminum does not need to be lubed. Lube steel is you want. Plastic? Armor All?

I bought an 80% lower from a gun show and the 20% that needs to be done is the magwell. Does anyone know where I can get the rest completed at in San Diego? From the little research I have done I have found out that not many people do that part and it is the hardest to do. Any suggestions would be great.

Ares Armor, is a place to start.

Frankgonz
10-11-2012, 9:22 AM
I am currently building an LR 308 (DPMS platform) and I was wondering if an AR 15 LPK is the same as an LPK for the LR? Also, if not, which LPK would any of you 308 fans recommend for this build?

joelogic
10-11-2012, 10:27 AM
They are different. DPMS kit works well.

joker70
10-11-2012, 1:13 PM
I cannot have my Bushnell 3200 scope and Magpul rear BUIS mounted at the same time because the scope is touching the rear sight (even with a high rise mount). Any suggestions? I am open to buying a different BUIS but the others I've looked at don't seem to be lower profile than the Magpul gen2.

joelogic
10-11-2012, 1:33 PM
Skip backups, mount at a 45, or ARMS-40L

calishine
10-11-2012, 2:31 PM
I cannot have my Bushnell 3200 scope and Magpul rear BUIS mounted at the same time because the scope is touching the rear sight (even with a high rise mount). Any suggestions? I am open to buying a different BUIS but the others I've looked at don't seem to be lower profile than the Magpul gen2.

KAC is another option. the Magpul sights are known to be a little higher than most that is why you're having clearance issues

bigkahuna04
10-11-2012, 11:36 PM
I have a friend that I helped with a OLL build, he brought out his complete upper receiver and when it was mounted on the lower, there was noticeable play/looseness at the front pivot pin and the rear takedown pin. Most of the looseness was in a vertical direction, the upper receiver can move slightly up and down.

Then I realized that he had a large pin upper, and that was the reason for the looseness that was felt.

My question to the more knowledgeable at CGN is.... Are there some type of adapter bushings that can be inserted into the larger holes of the upper receiver so it will fit with the small pins of the lower receiver? And any source to get these adapter bushings will be greatly appreciated.

thanks in advance....