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View Full Version : How long until my AR's broken trigger guard breaks again?


kwansao
04-17-2012, 10:49 PM
I recently bought a AR15 pattern rifle from a fellow calgunner and just noticed today after picking it up that the wings on the trigger guard were BOTH broken off and epoxied back on. :eek::facepalm::mad:

How long can i expect this contraption to hold together before it fails? Aluminum is stronger than epoxy, and if the receiver failed in the first place it is only a matter of time before this epoxy breaks.

Anyone with this problem know how many rounds can i expect to fire before i get home from the range one day and realize that my gun needs a new lower receiver?

edit: this is someone else's rifle but the damage would look something like this:

http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx121/ssg575/100_0741.jpg

gemoose23
04-17-2012, 10:52 PM
Aluminum can be welded. You can just be proactive and have a gunsmith weld and fix the lower for you, instead of "waiting" for it to happen again.

Intimid8tor
04-17-2012, 10:52 PM
It very well could hold for quite some time. There is noo stress on that part except when the trigger guard is installed. There is a company that makes a grip that includes the trigger guard and covers those tabs.

kwansao
04-17-2012, 10:54 PM
I'm really turned off by the appearance of that grip. anyone know of a decent gunsmith who will work on black rifles near the SF BAY AREA?

bloodhawke83
04-17-2012, 10:57 PM
Stark industries ar pistol grip.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

kwansao
04-17-2012, 10:59 PM
Stark industries ar pistol grip.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

OH GOD MY EYES :eek:

tonyxcom
04-17-2012, 11:00 PM
i wouldn't waste my time or money welding it. I would just find the kind of trigger guard you really like and drill and tap the the lower so you can screw it in to the lower - straight up and between the ears. Then glue the ears to the trigger guard, or even put the pin back through to hold them on but it would be for looks only.

It would be much cheaper and woudn't look as janky as a part that was welded, filed and painted.

Speedpower
04-17-2012, 11:04 PM
Did the guy sold you the AR disclose it to you that the tab on the trigger guard is broken when you agreed to buy it?

G60
04-17-2012, 11:13 PM
I doubt the receiver itself failed, sounds like whoever built up the lower failed. :facepalm:

kwansao
04-17-2012, 11:15 PM
Did the guy sold you the AR disclose it to you that the tab on the trigger guard is broken when you agreed to buy it?

No.

I doubt the receiver itself failed, sounds like whoever built up the lower failed. :facepalm:

Yeah..

NoHeavyHitter
04-17-2012, 11:18 PM
I'd break the other side off (it was epoxied too, right?) then file down both sides to match. Swap out the MOE grip for a MIAD and use the front section that has a built-in trigger guard, and call it a day.

That got screwed up because whoever assembled the lower failed to properly support that "leg" when driving in the pin that the trigger guard pivots on.

motorwerks
04-17-2012, 11:36 PM
Swap out the MOE grip for a MIAD and use the front section that has a built-in trigger guard, and call it a day.



If you can find the MIAD trigger guard. I bought all of them I could find when I found out they were going to stop selling them well over a year ago.

zfields
04-18-2012, 12:13 AM
Thats pretty shady right there.

Arkangel
04-18-2012, 12:19 AM
If he didn't disclose the true condition of the rifle, I would call that conduct unbecoming of a Calgunner.

I say out him.

NewbieDave
04-18-2012, 12:24 AM
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2780476

Check out this simple write-up... you'll be surprise how offend it happens. BCM has a new grip out with a ledge that will support the guard... I guess if you can find a nice way of attaching the guard to the ledge, you got a solution right there.

http://www.bravocompanymfg.com/images/marquee/gfg_gallery/gfg_mod0_allcolors.jpg

Speedpower
04-18-2012, 12:35 AM
Did the guy sold you the AR disclose it to you that the tab on the trigger guard is broken when you agreed to buy it?

No.



Who is this guy? you should disclose him, so other Calgunners won't fall victim to his SCAM!

OutkastSL
04-18-2012, 1:02 AM
Who is this guy? you should disclose him, so other Calgunners won't fall victim to his SCAM!

Agreed!

AeroEngi
04-18-2012, 1:04 AM
I agree with the others. You should disclose who this guy is so we can prevent him from doing it again. That is extremely shady and low class.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

kwansao
04-18-2012, 1:46 AM
I am more interested in finding a solution for this than anything else. I have been screwed harder on other purchases from fellow calgunners.

Overpaid on a M1, Ruger mini, bought a rifle .. with a bent barrel, bought an AR with a hated carbon fiber vulcan arms receiver, bought an AK with canted sights, gas block, barrel and trunion from Inter Ordinance... FFL stopped responding and told me they would have my guns destroyed by big brother.. Girlfriend tells me she believes in total gun control..

Now this. I should have researched prices, researched manufacturers, read ffl reviews, inspected weapons more closely...

Does not help me to be angry. If you know of a good gunsmith in the bay area please refer them to me.

ChaneRZ
04-18-2012, 2:04 AM
Independence Armory
1270 Petaluma Boulevard North, Suite A
Petaluma, CA 94952


Independence Armory is proud to offer the gunsmithing services of Wael Hadid. Wael is a professional gunsmith with years of experience working on precision bolt action and semiautomatic service rifles. Wael specializes in M1 Garand, M14, M1A and AR-15 service rifles, and bolt action rifles such as Remington and Winchester. His experience and expertise has been focused on precision tuning and National Match rifles.

CC Gunsmithing
1168 Adams St
Redwood City, CA 94061

Valkyrie Arms
1751 Houret Ct
Milpitas, CA 95035

Metal Dog Tactical
2128 N First Street
Suite D
San Jose CA 95131

Chaos47
04-18-2012, 2:09 AM
Wow man I would be pissed but I am glad to see you are taking it well.

I am more interested in finding a solution for this than anything else. I have been screwed harder on other purchases from fellow calgunners.

Overpaid on a M1, Ruger mini, bought a .22 colt rifle .. with a bent barrel, bought an AR with a hated carbon fiber vulcan arms receiver, bought an AK with canted sights, gas block, barrel and trunion from Inter Ordinance... FFL stopped responding and told me they would have my guns destroyed by big brother.. Girlfriend tells me she believes in total gun control..

Now this. I should have researched prices, researched manufacturers, read ffl reviews, inspected weapons more closely...

Does not help me to be angry. If you know of a good gunsmith in the bay area please refer them to me.

Jez you have bad luck. Remind me to never stand next to you in a thunderstorm.. lol

Goodluck finding a solution.
I too suggest a MIAD with the integrated trigger guard.
The Stark industries is an abomination!

kwansao
04-18-2012, 2:26 AM
Thank you for the referrals.

kwansao
04-18-2012, 2:27 AM
Wow man I would be pissed but I am glad to see you are taking it well.



Jez you have bad luck. Remind me to never stand next to you in a thunderstorm.. lol

Goodluck finding a solution.
I too suggest a MIAD with the integrated trigger guard.
The Stark industries is an abomination!

If you stand next to me, you will be fine. I will be the one to get electrocuted.

kwansao
04-18-2012, 2:57 AM
Wow man I would be pissed but I am glad to see you are taking it well.

No, I AM upset. Just can't get into a tirade before i get a recommendation for someone to fix the work.

04-17-2012, 9:18 PM

gunwurkz
Member

Join Date: May 2010
Location: Bay Area
Posts: 272
iTrader: 6 / 100%
Re: Del ton
Hey I'm sorry I didn't mention. AR was built by my cousin. He told me he dropped the lower and crack the trigger guard. I believe he used epoxy and black gun paint to fix it. I guarantee you that it does the affect the function of the gun because I shot 200 rounds without a problem.


so additionally the pin that holds the bottom of the trigger guard in (i have a MIAD installed, so only one pin is making contact with the receiver) is only attached to the receiver on one side. so it's in place on one side and loose on the other. Hardly secure. I doubt this will stand up to hard use or being carried on a backpacking trip, much less as a duty weapon. Why did we switch to aluminum and plastic rifles anyway? makes me love the Garand even more.

Well I'm not going to fool myself into thinking i can get any help from the former owner, so i'll just call one of the local 'smiths and see what my options are. Considering how much materials and labor cost these days it might just be a better idea for me to buy a new receiver and rebuild the weapon myself. :mad:

Chaos47
04-18-2012, 3:07 AM
Wow his explanation is pretty lame! IMO he should get negative feedback...

Considering how much materials and labor cost these days it might just be a better idea for me to buy a new receiver and rebuild the weapon myself. :mad:

Sadly this is probably true

tanakasan
04-18-2012, 7:04 AM
^^Definitely true...

That area is so thin and fragile, it would be a MF to weld. Then theres the re-machining/dress up after the repair. By the time you find a competent welder and go though all this, it would cost more than a new lower...and still be an ugly, softened/annealed, repaired one at that.

Hopefully the defect was declared by our fellow CG'er. That would really make me mad to have bought that thinking it was in good condition.

Robert

Elwood_Blues
04-18-2012, 7:33 AM
Hopefully the defect was declared by our fellow CG'er. That would really make me mad to have bought that thinking it was in good condition.

Robert

I guess you didn't read any other posts

kurac
04-18-2012, 8:01 AM
Getting a new lower reciever is going to cost less than having someone try to weld that up. I also doubt that welding that is going to be possible. If it were stainless steel no problem but welding small aluminum parts is a PITA. I predict that if you try to weld it, the small tab well melt and drop to the ground as a blob.

Flintlock Tom
04-18-2012, 8:37 AM
So sorry. I feel your pain.
"Frustrating" is probably an understatement. I am assuming that he did not disclose this fault at the time of the sale.
If it was me I would ask the seller how he would like to "make it right." He should take it back or refund a portion of the purchase price.

1911su16b870
04-18-2012, 8:38 AM
IMO use a stark grip, or JB weld the assembly together (ears, roll pin and trigger guard), cleaning off all excess with acetone after it is all in place.

connorr93
04-18-2012, 8:43 AM
Personally I think the stark industries grip is an abomination of a grip. Ugliest thing Iv ever seen.

89LT1
04-18-2012, 8:54 AM
IMO use a stark grip, or JB weld the assembly together (ears, roll pin and trigger guard), cleaning off all excess with acetone after it is all in place.

+1 for JB weld cures almost as hard as the aluminum. and then just be aware and try not to stress it much. or what about not running a trigger guard? sand where the tabs broke of round and call it a day?

Big Ben
04-18-2012, 9:34 AM
I wouldn't go with a gunsmith either. I just bought a new receiver for about $135 out the door (with tax and DROS). I'm not sure what a gunsmith would charge you, but I can't imagine that it would be much less than the $135 (and probably more than that).

Or you can just run with the epoxy route until it fails, then drop the $135 for a new receiver.

Sorry to hear about your misfortune. Good luck with whatever you decide.

deviljon
04-18-2012, 9:43 AM
Would it be possible to find an aluminum trigger guard and have the entire thing welded in place of it? Giving you that integrated trigger guard like the Mega billet lower. I think that would actually end up looking pretty cool.

sephy
04-18-2012, 9:52 AM
There might be a way to get something like the Troy trigger guard to work since it has plenty of material to play with.

Amazon Link (http://www.amazon.com/Troy-Enhanced-Trigger-Guard-Blk/dp/B0045R9GOU)

Speedpower
04-18-2012, 10:07 AM
This: http://www.riflegear.com/p-1135-aero-precision-ar15-lower.aspx only $120.90 out the door (including Tax and DROS)

kwansao
04-18-2012, 10:16 AM
This: http://www.riflegear.com/p-1135-aero-precision-ar15-lower.aspx only $120.90 out the door (including Tax and DROS)

That's very cheap. Does anyone have experience with this lower - is it decent quality?

shadowofnight
04-18-2012, 10:19 AM
Have you tried contacting Spikes Tactical ?

Just tell them you let a dummy build your lower ( True ) , and if they could replace it . Of course you would be paying for the new lower ( Probably just their cost, if you ask nice enough ) , but you wouldnt need an FFL or another 10 day wait.

tonyxcom
04-18-2012, 10:20 AM
AP are fine. They actually make lowers for a lot of people.

iBkickinit
04-18-2012, 10:24 AM
I really don't see the big deal here. That probably makes me a d**k.

It happens, and is pretty common. The ONLY economical fix is epoxy/JB Weld. When done right and cleanly touched up, you'd have a hard time finding the repair. I know because I have fixed several lowers where the same thing has been done by an inexperienced or careless builder.

Sounds to me like you need to inspect your firearms MUCH more thoroughly when buying. If a deal is too good to be true..

As to the seller, YES - they should have disclosed this. This doesn't seem like they were trying to hide it. It was plainly obvious for you to catch it.

What to do about it? Nothing. Maybe take a file to it to dress it out better and touch up with black. If it bugs you that much, go get a new lower for 60-90 bucks plus fees. Or Upgrade and get a billet receiver set.

I applaud the OP for taking the practical POV and simply evaluating his options. Others here might need a new tampon.

Speedpower
04-18-2012, 10:35 AM
That's very cheap. Does anyone have experience with this lower - is it decent quality?

Yes, Aero Precision is good to go as mentioned above by tonyxcom, they are OEM manufacturer for other big name companies like Armalite...........

russ69
04-18-2012, 10:41 AM
I'd get a new receiver and ask the guy for a refund of some sort. My guess is that in the military, that would be cause to replace a receiver at depot maintenance level.

Somekindagenius
04-18-2012, 11:13 AM
PM me your address and I can send you the Miad trigger guard insert if you want it.

utvtactical
04-18-2012, 11:41 AM
Buy a Stark Equipment Grip. It has an enhanced trigger guard built into the grip. It will cover up the broken ears plus it is a very comfortable grip, being longer than most others, with a slightly different angle and a waterproof compartment for a couple of batteries.

The SE-1 grip is their basic grip and the SE-2 features a hook mount for a single point sling. They are available in black, olive, dark earth and digital camo.

The grips are made in the USA.

HK35
04-18-2012, 12:04 PM
Buy a Stark Equipment Grip. It has an enhanced trigger guard built into the grip. It will cover up the broken ears plus it is a very comfortable grip, being longer than most others, with a slightly different angle and a waterproof compartment for a couple of batteries.
excellent recommendation:
http://shop.starkequipment.com/images/1249502541032-108154381.jpeg
http://shop.starkequipment.com/images/1249504044046-1710095243.jpeg

stix213
04-18-2012, 12:16 PM
I'd try JB weld first. You'd be amazed at what that stuff can do. I've used it on a few gun parts and haven't been let down yet. If it does fail again I'd just buy a new stripped lower and move all the guts over to the new one.

Cucv
04-18-2012, 12:53 PM
i wouldn't waste my time or money welding it. I would just find the kind of trigger guard you really like and drill and tap the the lower so you can screw it in to the lower - straight up and between the ears. Then glue the ears to the trigger guard, or even put the pin back through to hold them on but it would be for looks only.

It would be much cheaper and woudn't look as janky as a part that was welded, filed and painted.

welding would not be that hard if you tiged it but its a small area and i would have to do it with it stripped and the paint taken off the lower to get a good weld.

stitchnicklas
04-18-2012, 2:03 PM
the stark looks ok...

http://www.bravocompanyusa.com/Stark-SE-1-Pistol-Grip-Black-AA-p/stark%20se1-ar-blk-aa.htm

Agent Tikki
04-18-2012, 2:21 PM
the older Miads also came with an intergrated trigger guard.

Might wanna see if you can find one. faster and cheaper tnad better than welding aluminum imo.

Aluminum welding is very tricky, if done incorrectly it'll make a real big mess quickly
that coupled with the fact that you'd have to refinish makes me lean toward looking for and old magpul miad.

and yes... the stark grip is fugly. and the grip angle on it is different. It more suited to shorter stature people of CBQ fully collapsed stock position shooting.

motorwerks
04-18-2012, 2:45 PM
Have you tried contacting Spikes Tactical ?

Just tell them you let a dummy build your lower ( True ) , and if they could replace it . Of course you would be paying for the new lower ( Probably just their cost, if you ask nice enough ) , but you wouldnt need an FFL or another 10 day wait.

Yes you would. I had to about a year ago on a Tactical Machining Lower. They wanted to ship it to me, but because of California BS laws (I had them check because I didnt want to get anyone in trouble, and they called the DOJ) I had to have it shipped to an FFL and wait again.

motorwerks
04-18-2012, 2:52 PM
the older Miads also came with an intergrated trigger guard.

Might wanna see if you can find one. faster and cheaper tnad better than welding aluminum imo.


Totally agreed. That's going to be tough though they haven't sold that part together in the kit in over a year (like I said early on in this thread) Best bet would be to hit the classified with a WTB for a Miad trigger guard.

I also like the idea of welding in an Aluminum trigger guard like the Magpul, or the troy I think it would work out better than just welding in the ear.

xrMike
04-18-2012, 3:11 PM
Or just buy another lower if it really bothers you. You can get them for less than $100 these days, not including fees. That's what I would do.

Then you can hang onto this one and eventually put an old or burnt-barrelled upper on it and use it as a loaner, beater, or bump-fire gun.

shadowofnight
04-18-2012, 5:09 PM
Yes you would. I had to about a year ago on a Tactical Machining Lower. They wanted to ship it to me, but because of California BS laws (I had them check because I didnt want to get anyone in trouble, and they called the DOJ) I had to have it shipped to an FFL and wait again.

Without even going into different serial numbers ( Even here in CA, serial numbers arent even included for rifles on the DROS ) , any manufacturer of lowers ( Tactical Machining included ) could walk up to one of their CNC machines in use ...pause it...manually add your serial number to the active job...finish the lower....then set the automated serial number job back on.

Then your new lower , with the same serial number ( They destroy your damaged lower ) ...can be sent right back to you without involving an FFL whatsoever.

You get a new lower , with the same serial number...all is good in the world.

Now, If Tactical Machining was too lazy to take 5 minutes and manually add your serial number to a production lower...thats a different issue.

No FFL is needed , he just sends the manufacturer his damaged lower from his address....the manufacturer either repairs or replaces his lower with an identical lower with his same serial number....and they ship the lower to his address.

You can see how easy it is for a manufacturer to whip up a new lower with any serial number they want in this video....

a2n7SUQvo1M

tuna quesadilla
04-18-2012, 6:34 PM
I really don't see the big deal here. That probably makes me a d**k.

I applaud the OP for taking the practical POV and simply evaluating his options. Others here might need a new tampon.

Not knowing how to tap in a roll pin is a SERIOUSLY rookie move. If the guy can't tap in a pin without annihilating the fixture that holds it, what the hell ELSE did he screw up? Yeah I read the BS excuse about dropping the lower. I'll tell you exactly what happened. The klutz broke off the ear by trying to tap in the pin without supporting it, then he tried to go in from the other side after doing a very low-quality epoxy job and he broke that one too. :facepalm:

tanakasan
04-18-2012, 7:40 PM
I guess you didn't read any other posts

Saw them all, but missed that! LOL!

Thats what I get for posting in haste b4 work.

Robert

Redchevyman
04-18-2012, 8:03 PM
JB Weld is the fix that will last and only cost a few dollars.

motorwerks
04-18-2012, 8:15 PM
I get how easy it would be to throw in a custom serial number.... But TM paid for my DROS so I figure it must not be that easy and I would bet there's a paper trail involved to do it all correct. I would bet the ATF would have something to say about it.

shadowofnight
04-18-2012, 8:26 PM
I get how easy it would be to throw in a custom serial number.... But TM paid for my DROS so I figure it must not be that easy and I would bet there's a paper trail involved to do it all correct. I would bet the ATF would have something to say about it.

They made the lower from a square block of metal, it is a complete non-issue for them to destroy it and clone it with the same serial number.

I have had it done before ( Ordered custom 10/22 receivers, one came mismachined....one phone call.." Send it back, we will replace it " Pretty soon a new one shows up at the door with the same serial number ) and seen more than a few others do it as well.

Remember, this only works with the company that made the receiver....not distributors..etc

a308garand
04-18-2012, 8:43 PM
There have been many good answers to your original question...
1- Save money and JB weld (or another strong epoxy) and hope it holds.
2- Save money by using the Stark grip.
3- Remote hope that the original manufacturer can do the repair. Don't know until you ask.
4- Save headache and just buy another reciever at $100. Call it all a learning experience.

If you want a gunsmith (more money) to fix it...M60Joe can probably do it. It will cost more money, but that would be my choice if it was a registered assault weapon or had some other personal value.

Welding on the alloy for this rifle is almost impossible and I would really like to see someone who could weld this kind of repair :)
M60Joe does other types of repairs to weaponry and his work is very nice.
http://m60joe.com/

Let us know how things turn out for your rifle.

Oh yeah, check here:
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_23/360036_Don_t_always_have_to_weld_.html
http://users.zoominternet.net/~m60/triggerguard1.jpg

Cannon-Arms
04-18-2012, 9:33 PM
The Above fix posted by -a308- looks really good, also allows future replacement, just in case. Aluminum is easy to grind and shape, seems like a small weekend project fabbing new part from some aluminum stock.

Now, seriously, coming from a auto/aircraft background, this is a easy peasy fix for anybody that builds mods custom cars. Aluminum TIG welding is easy in a competent hand. I've watched aircraft weld shop guys weld coke cans back together!

Honestly, I would search out auto/speed shops (think sand rail, SCCA race car teams/builders, things like that) that do custom work and inquire if they do custom TIG on aluminum (intake manifolds and such.)

I believe you'll find it fairly economical as well for such a small repair, probably only incurring a minimum hour charge.

Good luck in whatever you do!

a308garand
04-18-2012, 10:29 PM
I have been told by smarts folks that welding the alloy for an AR15/M16 is not going to work. There is too much zinc in the mix and the weld will crack.
Google "weld 7075", it stinks. Hopefully someone comes up with a way to get it done, but nothing yet :(

Cannon-Arms
04-18-2012, 10:46 PM
Just called my weld shop bud at LAX. He said 7075 can be welded, but he would not recommend it as far as a high stress areas or for structural critical areas. Stronger than JB weld, absolutely! Weaker then the fix you posted above. I honestly find what you posted to be the most elegant in this situation.

jasonnorcal
04-18-2012, 10:59 PM
Anyone else catch what we were looking at in post#59? The real deal baby!

I 2nd the hotrod shop idea. Anyone that can tig a set of headers together should be able to weld those ears back on

xrMike
04-19-2012, 9:02 AM
I'll tell you exactly what happened. The klutz broke off the ear by trying to tap in the pin without supporting it, then he tried to go in from the other side after doing a very low-quality epoxy job and he broke that one too. :facepalm:

Yeah, you'd think he would've realized there was something wrong with his technique after breaking it the 1st time... :)

Anyone else catch what we were looking at in post#59?Something's wrong with that receiver; there's too many holes in it! Gonna have to weld up those extra holes, heheh.

h0use
04-19-2012, 10:54 AM
could you send your lower back to spikes? i would think they could fix it or replace it?

Speedpower
04-19-2012, 11:34 AM
Why would you send it back to Spikes? it will cost you more,
#1 = it's not defective so they will have to charge you whatever the amount is for a new lower (it takes more time to repair than to replace)
# 2 = you will then have to pay for shipping both ways
,might as well buy a strip Lower Locally and replace it yourself!

ke6guj
04-19-2012, 1:47 PM
Something's wrong with that receiver; there's too many holes in it! Gonna have to weld up those extra holes, heheh.no way. Those extra holes are worth $10k+.

hint, That is a registered Machine Gun that you are looking at in #59.

xrMike
04-19-2012, 2:17 PM
Yeah, I was goofin. :)

NoHeavyHitter
04-20-2012, 9:40 AM
excellent recommendation:
http://shop.starkequipment.com/images/1249502541032-108154381.jpeg
http://shop.starkequipment.com/images/1249504044046-1710095243.jpeg

Wow! I think I like this even better than my MIAD suggestion. :)

bob_e95482
04-20-2012, 7:26 PM
Getting a new lower reciever is going to cost less than having someone try to weld that up. I also doubt that welding that is going to be possible. If it were stainless steel no problem but welding small aluminum parts is a PITA. I predict that if you try to weld it, the small tab well melt and drop to the ground as a blob.

IMO use a stark grip, or JB weld the assembly together (ears, roll pin and trigger guard), cleaning off all excess with acetone after it is all in place.

+1 for JB weld cures almost as hard as the aluminum. and then just be aware and try not to stress it much. or what about not running a trigger guard? sand where the tabs broke of round and call it a day?

I really don't see the big deal here. That probably makes me a d**k.

It happens, and is pretty common. The ONLY economical fix is epoxy/JB Weld. When done right and cleanly touched up, you'd have a hard time finding the repair. I know because I have fixed several lowers where the same thing has been done by an inexperienced or careless builder.

Sounds to me like you need to inspect your firearms MUCH more thoroughly when buying. If a deal is too good to be true..

As to the seller, YES - they should have disclosed this. This doesn't seem like they were trying to hide it. It was plainly obvious for you to catch it.

What to do about it? Nothing. Maybe take a file to it to dress it out better and touch up with black. If it bugs you that much, go get a new lower for 60-90 bucks plus fees. Or Upgrade and get a billet receiver set.

I applaud the OP for taking the practical POV and simply evaluating his options. Others here might need a new tampon.

There is a lot of FUD here about welding and JB Weld. I wish that people who ARE NOT welding experts would quit giving their opinions. And that people that believe JB Weld is a viable gun repair.....

kwansao
05-02-2012, 1:32 PM
I think i will wait until it breaks. Thanks for all the advice.