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Shotgun Willie
03-23-2012, 10:00 PM
OK, I have a Pietta 1858 NA with extra cylinder coming. My question is, what are some good methods for stripping the blueing off of the cylinder?

The effect I'm shooting for is something like this:
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/45/New_model_Army_IMG_3544.jpg/800px-New_model_Army_IMG_3544.jpg

Gunhacker
03-23-2012, 11:08 PM
There are many Blue removal chemicals made and sold, to name a few: Blue Wonder, Brownells, Birchwood Casey.

After the bluing is removed, you going to need to burnish it with a green Scotchbrite pad or wire wheel to get it looking good, the metal will be dull due to the acidic nature of the chemical remover.

You might be better off skipping the chemicals and just use a soft wire wheel which will remove the blue and burnish the bare steel to look like the pic in one step.

Shotgun Willie
03-23-2012, 11:16 PM
Thanks for the info. I might have a wheel that would work. What have you heard about using vinegar or other natural acidics?

Gunhacker
03-23-2012, 11:29 PM
I've heard of white vinegar being used and saw a "how to" here: http://m1-garand-rifle.com/debluing/

But I think going the direct route with a wire wheel would be less messy and easier to control, you don't want to remove the bluing from the entire cylinder.

I used a wire wheel on the bolt carrier of my sks that was painted over, it came out looking great.

Shotgun Willie
03-24-2012, 12:46 AM
Thanks again, I will prolly go the wire wheel route. If it turns out well, I'll post pics.

kendog4570
03-24-2012, 4:28 AM
Jasco Metal-Etch will remove it very quickly. Mixed per the instructions it will not attack the metal.
Birchwood Casey also has a product for this.
Unless you have some experience, and the right wire wheel driven at the right rpm, it will look like it has been ....wire wheeled.

17+1
03-24-2012, 5:03 AM
I used metal polish I got at the car parts store and a buffer on my blued Mauser bolt...took a little time, but it came out nice and smooth.

bruceflinch
03-24-2012, 6:06 AM
So once the Bluing is removed, How /What do you prevent rust on the part?

Fate
03-24-2012, 9:41 AM
If you're looking for a "worn look", antifreeze will do it.

Tallship
03-24-2012, 9:45 AM
So once the Bluing is removed, How /What do you prevent rust on the part?

Keep it well lubricated with Bore Butter or something similar.

Gunhacker
03-24-2012, 2:06 PM
So once the Bluing is removed, How /What do you prevent rust on the part?

Good question.. especially on a BP gun

If it were mine, I'd buy a can of the "bake on" finishes in a spray can that Brownells sells and put on a clear coat. A word of warning... it's going to smoke and stink until cured. I was glad the wife was gone when I did an AR-15 carbine barrel in a dark charcoal grey that matched the parkerizing on the upper receiver.

What might also work is a coat of paste wax.

As for using a wire wheel, I should have mentioned that the one I used was one of the "carding" wheels they sell. The bristles are finer and softer than most hardware store brushes. The key is not be too heavy handed and do a practice run on something to get the feel of what it will take to get surface you desire.

Another idea would be to slide the cylinder onto a long bolt with a washer at each end of the cylinder, screw on 2 nuts... one to keep the cylinder from spinning on the bolt, and then tighten the other one against it to lock it in place. Chuck it in a drill press, spin it and hold a wad of steel wool against it as it spins to take off the bluing.

Pofoo
03-24-2012, 3:41 PM
Any kind of commercial rust remover will work-- Navel Jelly, etc.

Tom Slick
03-24-2012, 3:47 PM
Navel Jelly makes quick and easy work of removing bluing.

0321jarhead
03-24-2012, 5:01 PM
Navel Jelly is good. I also at times use that is bio-hazard friendly and oderless and use can use it again and again. Its about $20 per gallon. And its not messy like navel jell. http://evaporust.com/

The Gleam
03-24-2012, 5:18 PM
Want it to come off really fast without harming the metal or a single second of elbow grease?

Muriatic acid - nothing works faster on bluing, and it won't mess up the metal. I've usually got a jug of it around for various cleaning reasons, which can be picked up at most common places like Home Depot, OSH, PepBoys or even Target, as it is usually used for cleaning brick and driveways. The stuff is cheap too; a gallon only runs about $4.00.

The SECOND it touches the bluing it's gone entirely - no rubbing, scuffing, sanding, or otherwise. Nothing works faster. Once off, clean it up with ammonia or baking soda to neutralize the acid.

Shotgun Willie
03-25-2012, 2:33 AM
Keep it well lubricated with Bore Butter or something similar.

How about ship oil? Not ze oil from boats, ju know, ze ships in ze field, ze li'l baa baa baas?

Sorry, couldn't resist the ref to "Zorro the Gay Blade". Funny movie.

Shotgun Willie
03-25-2012, 2:40 AM
If you're looking for a "worn look", antifreeze will do it.

Hmmm. The weapon will be brand new, and I don't intend to distress it all over, (yet) but a worn looking cylinder could be put into a new pistol. Looks like I need to get another cylinder or three...!

In a few months, if money for toys comes in, there will definately be another 1858 NA coming. Ah, the possibilities... Maybe even a Kirst converter...

I'm working on a post War of the Northern Agression ex Confederate who is now a paladin type impression. I might even get back into SASS... Or whatever they have now.

Shotgun Willie
03-25-2012, 2:59 AM
Navel Jelly makes quick and easy work of removing bluing.

Oh yeah, I remember that... I used it to strip the paint off of a Spanish army German looking helmet a long time ago.

Shotgun Willie
03-25-2012, 3:03 AM
Want it to come off really fast without harming the metal or a single second of elbow grease?

Muriatic acid - nothing works faster on bluing, and it won't mess up the metal. I've usually got a jug of it around for various cleaning reasons, which can be picked up at most common places like Home Depot, OSH, PepBoys or even Target, as it is usually used for cleaning brick and driveways. The stuff is cheap too; a gallon only runs about $4.00.

The SECOND it touches the bluing it's gone entirely - no rubbing, scuffing, sanding, or otherwise. Nothing works faster. Once off, clean it up with ammonia or baking soda to neutralize the acid.

That sounds good. Does MA eat brushes? I'll need to cotrol the application, as I want to leave SOME blueing, in the nipple nests and timing slots.

17+1
03-25-2012, 8:20 AM
So once the Bluing is removed, How /What do you prevent rust on the part?

Maybe if it were damp and muggy, but I don't put anything else on the bolt (besides a little grease on the back of the lugs and on the ways) and it hasn't rusted. Not sure what alloy of steel it is, but it seems to resist rust.

TRAP55
03-25-2012, 8:34 AM
Why remove the bluing?
If you want to "age" the part, let it sit in a bowl of Coke or lemon Kool-Aid overnight.
Either aging or stripping the bluing completely, you'll be fighting rust problems forever, especially with BP.

0321jarhead
03-25-2012, 10:37 AM
:iagree::iagree::iagree::iagree::iagree::iagree::i agree:Why remove the bluing?
If you want to "age" the part, let it sit in a bowl of Coke or lemon Kool-Aid overnight.
Either aging or stripping the bluing completely, you'll be fighting rust problems forever, especially with BP.

rojocorsa
03-25-2012, 11:06 AM
CLR will take it off quickly!

scrat
03-25-2012, 7:21 PM
go to your local dollar store and buy a cheap bottle of vinegar then take apart the cylinder and soak it in the vinegar for about an hour then wash it off with hot soapy water. then take the nipples off clean it up good. then go to your local auto parts store and get some mothers mag and wheel polish. then polish it out. use q tips for the insides. every few months take it out and polish it. just like any polished metal it wont rust as long as you polish it once in a while below before and after pics of an 1851 i redid
http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q77/scratm3/100_0818.jpg
http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q77/scratm3/IMG_1896.jpg
http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q77/scratm3/4Apr-31.jpg
two years later still looks like this.
http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q77/scratm3/Picture023.jpg

scrat
03-25-2012, 7:23 PM
Why remove the bluing?
If you want to "age" the part, let it sit in a bowl of Coke or lemon Kool-Aid overnight.
Either aging or stripping the bluing completely, you'll be fighting rust problems forever, especially with BP.

not true

scrat
03-25-2012, 7:26 PM
here is a gun i wanted to age. the final result is a rust bluing.

http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q77/scratm3/Picture005.jpg
http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q77/scratm3/Picture031.jpg
two coats of rust bluing a special technique
http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q77/scratm3/Picture036.jpg
http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q77/scratm3/Picture042.jpg
http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q77/scratm3/Copy2ofPicture047.jpg
http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q77/scratm3/CopyofPicture046.jpg

rojocorsa
03-25-2012, 10:37 PM
Those are cool pieces. ^^^^

scrat
03-26-2012, 3:04 PM
Thanks

And they dont rust. Just have to know about metal.

Shotgun Willie
03-27-2012, 2:45 AM
Dang son, that 1851 looks like a future project I'm thinking about. I want to make the stock look like ebony. Was thinking of using Minwax Ebony. But that's for down the road.

That NA looks great, too. Are those stocks off of an original, or did YOU distress them?

scrat
03-27-2012, 11:28 AM
The 1851 I sanded down and dumped about 20 coats of black laquer. then polished it out. the 1858 i put the grips in a coffee can with some nuts and bolts and shook away. then i burnt them over the stove and applied some black shoe polish to them and rubbed them out.

tlivingd
03-27-2012, 5:06 PM
Scrat, any chance you want to share your rust bluing technique? I have my grandfathers kit and it's currently stripped down simmiar to what you started with and yours looks great.

Shotgun Willie
03-29-2012, 1:15 AM
The NA came today. The stocks were OK, nothing to celebrate, so the Faux Ivories went on within 30 minutes. Haven't started the stripping yet.
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l315/SiegfriedVonFunk/1858NAleft.jpg
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l315/SiegfriedVonFunk/18651NAright.jpg

scrat
03-29-2012, 9:25 AM
Scrat, any chance you want to share your rust bluing technique? I have my grandfathers kit and it's currently stripped down simmiar to what you started with and yours looks great.


Using Birchwood Casey Cold Blue Kit.
After the frame was completely stripped you use steel wool to go over it to really get it down to the metal. During this process you would be removing all and any signs of surface rust that gets on quick. I do this butt when i get it to wear i want i wet the steel wool then rub it out on where i want the coloring. As the steel wool wet will cause some surface rust if you go lightly. then i rubbed down with a cheese cloth. Now when you put on your first coat of the cold blue the acids mix in and change the color. Then i just put on about 5 coats of the cold bluing. then let it sit for a day then put another coat on. some areas like the pull on the arbor i left the ends bare metal for the wear look. Actually looks really good

Shotgun Willie
03-30-2012, 9:13 PM
I ended up using CLR, then polishing compound and a buffing wheel. A family distraction caused me to get CLR in the slots and nests, so I did the whole cylinder. I'm happy with the result!
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l315/SiegfriedVonFunk/000_1048.jpg
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l315/SiegfriedVonFunk/000_1047.jpg

Thanks to all for your input. I went with what I did because I already had some around the place.

Old Scribe
03-31-2012, 10:18 AM
As far as keeping the rust off, after I clean my BP fire arms I use Burchwood Caseys "Barricade" inside and out. Keeps rust from forming and finger prints off.

Shotgun Willie
04-01-2012, 12:16 AM
As far as keeping the rust off, after I clean my BP fire arms I use Burchwood Caseys "Barricade" inside and out. Keeps rust from forming and finger prints off.

Where do you get it? The Barricade page at the BC website says it cannot be shipped to California! Who's surprised?

http://sport.birchwoodcasey.com/Maintenance/MaintenanceDetails.aspx?ProductID=026efcbf-5a56-4037-a9c5-621cf7a4425b

Old Scribe
04-01-2012, 3:32 PM
Where do you get it? The Barricade page at the BC website says it cannot be shipped to California! Who's surprised?

http://sport.birchwoodcasey.com/Maintenance/MaintenanceDetails.aspx?ProductID=026efcbf-5a56-4037-a9c5-621cf7a4425b

My local gun shop carries it. I haven't heard about "non-shipping" to Calif. Midway and Brownells both carry it. Sportsman's Warehouse just across the border from me in Oregon has carried it too.

EmmaGoldman
04-01-2012, 4:59 PM
Another option for a protected finish in this color range is a product called "rust converter" that can be had at auto supply stores. It turns the blue in to a phosphate coating known as French Grey. Coke will do the same thing more slowly (or any other form of phosphoric acid).

scrat
04-02-2012, 8:47 AM
Again go to your local auto parts store. Mother mag and wheel polish. basically metal polish. it will prevent rust and makes the cylinder look good. One piece of advice keep an old tooth brush handy as you will need it in the tight spots.