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View Full Version : M1 beat up parts, replacement questions


kwansao
01-28-2012, 2:19 PM
Hey there. I picked up an m1 that is a money pit.

http://i1085.photobucket.com/albums/j436/kwansao/d84886a1.jpg

This is the barrel. It was used to fire corrosive ammo and looks like it was stored in a tropical environment without being cleaned for a decade..

I have a source for a good replacement of same make and similar vintage. And I intend to restore this rifle in a non-destructive and reversible way.

When the time is right I intend to get it installed by a professional.

My other two potential issues with this rifle is that the rest of it is just plain worn out. I will have to replace the trigger group and possibly the op rod, bolt and gas cylinder.

I know for sure I will have to replace the bolt as the current one locks up while going into battery creating the pictured condition, which could easily result in the rifle firing out of battery. Yikes.

http://i1085.photobucket.com/albums/j436/kwansao/c291c142.jpg

The bolt actually gets stuck.. And it's nearly impossible to bring it into battery through forward force. I have to pull the op rod back and let it go again to get the bolt in battery.

Lastly and possibly most worrisome is that there is missing metal on the receiver where the locking lug travels:

http://i1085.photobucket.com/albums/j436/kwansao/8760a568.jpg

So.. Does this defect in the receiver (undoubtedly caused by some bubba) mean that the rifle is unsafe regardless of how many of the parts I replace?

Thanks.

big103
01-28-2012, 3:04 PM
Looks like your bolt is not locking fully into place. Which could be a real worn op rod and probably the gas cylinder too from the looks of the barrel.

Not sure about missing steel on the op rod track there as long as the op rod is not popping out of there you should be fine.

Your probably going to put more money into it then you could get one from the cmp it great working condition.

But if you dont mind that then it looks like a good project to start with.

Orlando
01-28-2012, 3:55 PM
I agree, better off stipping it down , selling parts and buy a Service Grade from CMP for $625.00

Sailormilan2
01-28-2012, 4:31 PM
The op rod piston should be no smaller than .525". If it is not smaller than that, you should be good to go. The op rod tab can be rebuilt by tigging on some metal, then grinding/filing it down.
Or you can send it here for rebuilding:

http://www.columbusmachine.com/shooters.htm

Screwing the barrel on is actually easy, with the right tools. The hard part will be headspacing it if it is a used barrel. That may mean a different bolt, but bolts are easy to find.
The trigger group is easy to rebuild, though reinstalling the trigger can be a bit of a PITA. I am not sure what you mean about needing to rebuild it, but hammers and trigger are easy to find. Basically, punch out the trigger pin and the hammer pin and it comes apart.
If you choose to rebuild it, go to Orion 7 for a spring kit, and that should give you all the springs you need to fix it, except for the clip ejector spring. So, you will need to find that seperately.
If you are close to Bakersfield I have all the tools to work on it, and I can parkerize it.

kwansao
01-28-2012, 5:56 PM
I know the CMP sells cheap rifles. This one has sentimental value.

I replaced the op rod, follower rod, spring and bolt with a set from one of my CMP rifles, and the 'problem' went away. I'll try to see if replacing only the op rod or bolt will fix the problem.

I don't have any gauges for the gas cylinder.

I'm not planning on rebuilding the trigger group because almost all the parts have issues. Best to replace it.

Orlando
01-28-2012, 6:01 PM
I know the CMP sells cheap rifles. This one has sentimental value.

Well then twist on a new barrel and replace parts as needed.
If you dont have the tools or know how I suggest Shuffs Parkerizing for a new barrel or used USGI barrel. He can also replace and worn parts
He has rebarreled and reparked 3 Garands for me
He is a perfectionist and has the best prices I have seen, and a 5 day turn around from the day he recives your rifle

pro-nra
01-28-2012, 7:42 PM
The bolt hanging up like that sound to me like a timing issue. I would investigate that first. It could be a worn camming surface on the op rod or the internal parts associated with timing (a few of them).

kwansao
01-28-2012, 7:48 PM
Replacing just the op rod, does not fix the bolt not locking up properly. Replacing just the bolt fixes the issue. Thanks guys. If the problem with the receiver is not terminal then I will go ahead and restore the rifle.

6mmintl
01-28-2012, 8:45 PM
Where are you located? im ion the peninsula and can check it out for you/recommend a good restorer/armorer..

Noonanda
01-29-2012, 7:07 AM
That missing metal on the op-rod track, wonder if it is a rewelded reciever?

kendog4570
01-29-2012, 8:07 AM
The "missing metal", is not. It is most likely a sloppy right bolt lug relief cut. It needs to be there so the bolt can go fully into battery. A better picture of the area, with the parts stripped out of it, would help to confirm this.
The bolt not closing could be caused by many reasons.
Have your rifle checked out by someone with the proper gauges, knowledge, and experience.

me109g4
01-29-2012, 12:48 PM
What Kendog said,,, I have worked on Garands for yrs. and i am astounded by what people will try to do to a Garand with absolutely no knowledge or forethought. Take it to someone who is thoroughly familiar with the workings of the Garand and save yourself a bunch of bucks from replacing stuff that doesnt need replacement.

kendog4570
01-29-2012, 1:56 PM
What Kendog said,,, I have worked on Garands for yrs. and i am astounded by what people will try to do to a Garand with absolutely no knowledge or forethought. Take it to someone who is thoroughly familiar with the workings of the Garand and save yourself a bunch of bucks from replacing stuff that doesnt need replacement.


Exactly...

"FREEZE!! PUT THE DREMEL DOWN, AND STEP AWAY FROM THE GARAND! MOVE ALONG NOW, THERE'S NOTHING MORE TO SEE!!"


;)

Noonanda
01-29-2012, 3:26 PM
I was asking was it a possible dewatted/rewelded receiver as there is a decent little divot/gap there or so it looks from the pic. Can't see the pic now on my phone, but my garand does not have it and it didn't look like the bolt lug releif cut

Sailormilan2
01-29-2012, 3:33 PM
From the pics the OP posted of the bolt and the receiver, it does not appear to be a "reweld" or welded recevier.
However, if the OP will post the serial number and the drawing number on the right recveiver leg under the wood line, it can be double checked.

a308garand
01-29-2012, 3:44 PM
Swaping bolts can result in headspace troubles. Read that as Kaboom!
Please get the rifle checked at a gunsmith before firing.

After getting it checked over for safety, I would shoot the sewer pipe of a barrel and see what kind of accuracy it gets. It may be ugly but have life in it.

kwansao
01-29-2012, 10:43 PM
Yes, I am going to have it professionally rebarreled and the new bolt headspaced.

It's not a remil.

Thanks for all your concern!

Oh, my god, no, I can't shoot this rifle as is. I have been running brushes and patches through it for 3 days and I'm still pulling out dark muddy crap from the barrel. There's no rifling and so much build up & pitting in the barrel it might just explode.

I found a source on replacement barrels of the same (foreign) manufacturer and I'm going to bite the bullet and pay to have it professionally rebarreled. I'm also going to replace the bolt (existing one gets jammed up) and have it headspaced.

Decided to rebuild the trigger group too. Need to replace the hammer (chipped), the safety (tip broken off), the trigger guard (worn down & loose fitting).. The housing is also bent and does not fit flush with the stock, so might have to replace that too! Wait, that's almost everything.. :P

Noonanda
01-30-2012, 6:36 AM
So you pretty much have a receiver and a few other parts

kwansao
01-30-2012, 9:41 AM
So you pretty much have a receiver and a few other parts

Yep. Crappy ain't it?

Springfield45
01-30-2012, 12:07 PM
Take it to a Gunsmith and have them put a .270 Win. barrel in it. Then they can fix the bolt at the same time.

kendog4570
01-30-2012, 12:12 PM
Take it to a Gunsmith and have them put a .270 Win. barrel in it.....


THAT ought to jazz this thread up!!:43:

kwansao
01-30-2012, 12:27 PM
Hmm too bad I already have money invested in M2 Ball. or i could convert it to 8mm mauser just like the KMT intended.

Rock6.3
01-30-2012, 12:27 PM
Yes, I am going to have it professionally rebarreled and the new bolt headspaced.


I found a source on replacement barrels of the same (foreign) manufacturer and I'm going to bite the bullet and pay to have it professionally rebarreled. .. :P

Foreign???

https://estore.odcmp.com/store/catalog/catalog.aspx?pg=catalogList&cat=BAR

kwansao
01-30-2012, 12:29 PM
Foreign???

https://estore.odcmp.com/store/catalog/catalog.aspx?pg=catalogList&cat=BAR

Republic of China.

kwansao
02-01-2012, 11:54 AM
I do have an additional question for the m1 experts. The receiver heel is pitted along the stock line and I am concerned that it will be unable to withstand being fired. (an if it is fired, that it will send metal fragments flying towards my eyeballs) I will attach pictures when I get home.

Orlando
02-01-2012, 11:59 AM
I do have an additional question for the m1 experts. The receiver heel is pitted along the stock line and I am concerned that it will be unable to withstand being fired. (an if it is fired, that it will send metal fragments flying towards my eyeballs) I will attach pictures when I get home.

Pitting on the bottom underneath side is no issue