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Latigo
01-27-2012, 8:13 AM
Aggressive with the k31 bolt? With all the interest in k31's here now, take a moment to read this. I wrote this some time ago, but it's worth your reading it.

These two points on the lug, A&B are not inherently weak, but are the common place for the Op-Rod to fail if its going to with repeated undue harsh use. Keep in mind the age of these rifles.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v87/zfk3155/lug5.jpg

We typically weld the LHO bridge to original Op-Rods, so we have intimate knowledge of the steel and its limits.
(Thanks Guisan)


We have Swiss Rifles here in the armoury, and I mean we have a lot of them, all kinds. When in correct mechanical condition not one of them requires undue force to cycle. Extraction is crisp and smooth, and running a correctly profiled cartridge into battery is smooth, effortless and a few at most requiring a solid push for the last 1/16" of bolt travel.

If your bolt is clean and your cartridges properly sized, seat depth correct for the rifle you'll have no problem running a cartridge smoothly into battery. If you have to slap them in or out, you have a problem and one most likely easily solved.

Rapping on the bolt handle with anything at all to remove a stuck case is a sure way to stress that op-rod and lug. Never, ever use a mallet or anything else on a k31 bolt handle.
So how do you remove a stuck case in a Swiss Rifle?

Try this:
You need to apply strong rearward inertia to the entire bolt, not just the handle.

Take the rifle in your left hand, holding it by the mid-foregrip. Place the edge your right hand (like a karate chop) against the bolt handle or you can grip it firmly with your fingers (not quite as effective with that type of bolt), or you can use a small block of wood in your hand to put downward pressure on the bolthandle. Raise the rifle about 18" off the ground and bring it down quickly, rapping the buttstock sharply against the ground while putting hard downpressure against the bolt with your right hand. Do it more than once if you need to, but I can tell you that its worked very time for me for as long as I've been reloading no matter what the rifle. If its a turn bolt action, rotate the bolt handle up and do the procedure. The AR10 is done the same way but just grip the bolt handle like you're extracting a cartridge and pull down hard while striking the butt on the ground.
Don't do this on concrete for obvious reasons.

pro-nra
01-27-2012, 8:30 AM
Good information. All seven of my K31 cycles smooth and no need for the extra slap to close into battery.

Not to hijack this thread, what type metal is the bolt on the K31 made out of? Sure looks like some kind of stainless steel to me. Whatever it is, the Swiss polished it and damn it looks good. I love it.

SKSer45
01-27-2012, 8:32 AM
sweet I am doing it right :) my bolt is running smooth like silk. I am sure you can tell in my video of shooting her.

Now Latigo I noticed a lot of guys on youtube having to double tap the bolt. IE. Pull the bolt back then go forward but doesn't go all the way. Then they have to tap it forward.

that's not good right? I think there is even a word for that in Swiss

Latigo
01-27-2012, 8:46 AM
Highly polished tempered steel.

rojocorsa
01-27-2012, 11:13 AM
This should be sticky.

paul0660
01-27-2012, 11:15 AM
Thanks for chiming in Latigo. I have learned a lot from your posts on other forums.

Latigo
01-27-2012, 11:58 AM
sweet I am doing it right :) my bolt is running smooth like silk. I am sure you can tell in my video of shooting her.

Now Latigo I noticed a lot of guys on youtube having to double tap the bolt. IE. Pull the bolt back then go forward but doesn't go all the way. Then they have to tap it forward.

that's not good right? I think there is even a word for that in Swiss

Yes. Dummele tranlates to dumb@$$

pro-nra
01-27-2012, 7:57 PM
Highly polished tempered steel.

Sure looks like stainless to me. Thanks for the info.

CaliforniaLiberal
01-27-2012, 10:42 PM
Latigo, could you please recommend your favorite three online dealers to shop for a K31?

rojocorsa
01-28-2012, 12:41 AM
Try Simpsons LTD, they have a LOT of selection. And pictures and conditions of each one, and they all seem to come with a muzzle cap and sling. 90% of them seem to be numbers matching.


I've never done business there, but they seemed to have a great selection. Couldn't hurt to look.





Guys, is the action supposed to be hard to open initially after the gun is fired? I'm guessing that this hard spot is the same one that is taken over by mechanical advantage on turn bolts, ie "cock on opening"?



I just want to ensure that I'm not manipulating it wrong. I'd hate to ruin the damn thing.

CaliforniaLiberal
01-28-2012, 4:21 AM
Wow.

Simpson's has hundreds of Rifles.

Thanks.

Latigo
01-28-2012, 6:04 AM
Its getting late in the game for the best k31s now. When it began we were able to get them for about $110.00 each. Starting about two years ago a lot of them came into the US and about a year ago the k31s coming in had great barrels but the wood was not that great anymore. The best ones came in first and Simpsons' has been selling them for some 25 years or more.

The very best you can find will be at Simpsons LTD. Bob Simpson travels and hand selects all of their rifles. He's almost in Europe more than here. Their descriptions and photos are dead on. Buy it from them and you're sure to get the best available.

Alan's guns is another pretty good one. http://www.allans-armory.com/aa.php

And http://www.classicarms.us/

And http://www.fgsfirearms.com/