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View Full Version : School me on safe lock picking and more...


whereswill
12-29-2011, 1:01 PM
I know this Costco Safari safe is not UL listed, but I need something I can haul up the stairs and put on the second floor in my walk in closet. I was thinking if I bold it down really well in the corner with the hinge side away from the wall that maybe the thief would have a harder time getting leverage to pry it open taking them longer. I was also thinking about dry walling, texturing and painting around it to have sort of a "secret compartment" that I can hit and have pop open. I want to be able to open it fast and have some fire protection. I need schooling on a thief being able to drill out the lock. Anybody have any advice in general? Thanks.

http://www.costco.com/Browse/Product.aspx?Prodid=11680397&search=safari%20safe&topnav=&Mo=0&cm_re=1_en-_-Top_Left_Nav-_-Top_search&lang=en-US&Nr=P_CatalogName:BC&N=5000043&whse=BC&Dx=mode%20matchallpartial&Ntk=Text_Search&Dr=P_CatalogName:BC&Ne=4000000&D=safari%20safe&Ntt=safari%20safe&No=0&Nty=1&Ntx=mode%20matchallpartial

whereswill
01-03-2012, 12:04 PM
guess not... anybody... anybody? Am I wasting my time mounting the safe properly because the lock can be easily drilled out? :helpsmilie:

Librarian
01-03-2012, 2:07 PM
Here's a review - http://www.yoursafeguide.com/misc-safe/cannon-safe-safari-christmas-deal/

It's an entry-level safe that weighs 240 lb. I'd be more concerned that someone could open it with an axe.

The door is probably slightly more resistant than the sides, so limiting access to the sides would be reasonable.

odysseus
01-03-2012, 2:11 PM
These safes are easier to bust into by brute force than the chance someone with "skills" and tools is going to come in and work your lock like a jewelry thief. It would be more wise to consider ease of access to the safe itself, and time permitted for a burglar to have access to this kind of safe if a break in were to occur.

Saying that, it is still a good idea to get a well recognized brand and model of lock system on your safe for reliability reasons.

whereswill
01-04-2012, 1:33 PM
I'm limited to the 200-250lb safes due to having to get it up the stairs by my self and other reasons. Sucks. So you guys are saying regardless of limiting their leverage for prying by putting the safe in a corner with hinges away from the wall(mounted to the floor, of course)... they can swing an axe and crack the sides of the safe open? :eek:

Thanks for the advice... I'll be building a SOLID wall frame around it to make it blend in as much as possible and make it harder for side entry just in case they find it. At least that'll make 'em work harder and take longer if they find it. I'll have a fake safe next to it with weights in it that they can take and maybe it will deter them to look any further. By then my motion detecting hidden cams will kick in and I'll see them in my house and call the police. Assuming everything goes to plan.

New Years Eve somebody came to my door at 745pm with all my lights off and my car in the garage... when I looked through the peep hole after turning the outside lights on and yelling for my dog to get back he turned his back to the door adjusted his beanie and ran away... cops got him.

milotrain
01-04-2012, 3:01 PM
Looking at some of the cheaper safes I've got to believe that a standard 4' gang box is harder to get into, lighter and cheaper. Usually they are 16-14g steel and take two padlocks. Not hard to get into but certainly no easier than some of the cheaper safes.

Librarian
01-04-2012, 3:56 PM
I'm limited to the 200-250lb safes due to having to get it up the stairs by my self and other reasons. Sucks. So you guys are saying regardless of limiting their leverage for prying by putting the safe in a corner with hinges away from the wall(mounted to the floor, of course)... they can swing an axe and crack the sides of the safe open? :eek:

Thanks for the advice... I'll be building a SOLID wall frame around it to make it blend in as much as possible and make it harder for side entry just in case they find it. At least that'll make 'em work harder and take longer if they find it. I'll have a fake safe next to it with weights in it that they can take and maybe it will deter them to look any further. By then my motion detecting hidden cams will kick in and I'll see them in my house and call the police. Assuming everything goes to plan.


A burglary-resistant safe can never do more than slow people down - it's for how long that you pay increasing $$.

A safe rated as a UL Residential Security Container is supposed to keep out professionals with good tools for 5 minutes - but just the door.

Some folks have very good safes, but also happen to own grinders and saws and torches that would be fine tools to open those safes. If you protect the sides some, and don't leave your fire axe in the same room, your safe should give you enough delay for the other measures to have some effect.

Good luck!

wildhawker
01-09-2012, 4:54 AM
For a number of reasons, including the above, I keep my power tools in locked "safes" also (Greenlee gang boxes).

-Brandon