View Full Version : Benefits of Duracoat finish?

03-10-2007, 2:59 AM
Searching through some FAL's, I've noticed some models have a Duracoat finish option of $200 vs standard finish. What would be some advantages of the Duracoat finish? If I were to purchase, use of this rifle would be minimal to moderate.

03-10-2007, 5:14 AM
I used duracoat to paint my FAL. I thought it would be super tuff but its not. I noticed that it peeled off in high contact/wear areas. Its alright but I think next I will save money and just use regular Krylon.

03-10-2007, 5:43 AM
My AK is Duracoated and it is pretty god damn tough. I wanted to polish the bolt. I tried a few things I heard on AR-15.COM and other sites, none of them worked. I even tried using some pretty strong acid to try to get it off - didn't even make a difference. In the end nothing short of a dremel got it off. The safety an the gas block levers have been used quite a lot and you can tell there has been wear, but what do you expect when you take the safety on and off and remove the gas block for cleaning and such?

03-10-2007, 8:34 AM
I'd save 200 and duracoat/gunkote it myself later. With typical range use you wont get many scratches, if you do and your gun has a special coating on it (camo for instance) its going to be hard to touch up to get a perfect match, depending on how anal you are about it of course.

With a regular park job, touch up is easy. Plus you can always coat it yourself later and you'll have some left over to touch up for a perfect match. I'd use the 200 for ammo.

03-10-2007, 10:12 AM
Save the $200 and buy ammo. You can paint it yourself, LCW sells a kit with airbrush, accessories and paint for $65 with shipping.

03-10-2007, 10:55 AM
i thought duracoat was supposed to last 'several lifetimes'?

of course in reality that would be impossible unless never used, but i thought it was supposed to be a very durable finish?

what about duracoating accessories; like ladder rail covers, vertical/pistol grips, stocks, etc? im looking for a durable method to re-finish these in a specific color.

My guess is, the problem that draconianruler talks about is due to incorrect application, preparation, or curing techniques. One of the main reasons I didn't go with Duracoat is, proper curing time for it is 4-6 weeks. If the proper methods are followed, there shouldn't be a problem. I personally have not applied Duracoat, but have inspected parts that have been coated.

I have applied Norrell's Moly-Coat on many firearms, and know that with proper prep, careful application, and curing, that finish isn't coming off w/o some serious sanding or blasting.

I did the frame and slide of my Sig P220, many AR lowers and uppers, and the slides of 2 of my Glock 23's. they have seen a lot of use and show no signs of the finish wearing.

As recommended above, I'd just get the kits and do it myself, then you get all your parts painted with the same batch of dura/moly coat and they match in color.

03-10-2007, 11:15 AM
With a regular park job, touch up is easy.What is the method for touching up dinged/scratched/scraped areas on a parked finish?

03-10-2007, 11:34 AM
What is the method for touching up dinged/scratched/scraped areas on a parked finish?

If its a small scratch cold bluing solutions/paste work great, . If its really small you can get away with a sharpie though it will wear off pretty quickly. For ARs, I use aluminum black. Dont forget to clean up the scratched area first.

03-10-2007, 12:52 PM
curing time 4-6 WEEKS!?!?

so you are expected to just put your un-used parts on a table for a month and a half or more? what if when dust collects on the parts?

It's quoted as 4-6 weeks to completely cure. You are able to handle the parts within hours/a day of finishing. It's not recommended to put them to heavy use though until curing is complete.

That's the one reason I opted for Norrell's. Heat the part, spray it, then put it in an oven for an hour, when it cools, it's done.

03-10-2007, 12:54 PM
curing time 4-6 WEEKS!?!?

so you are expected to just put your un-used parts on a table for a month and a half or more? what if when dust collects on the parts?

That is for a full and complete cure - max hardness and durability. The drying time is actually quite short, but the product will continue to "cure" for the stated time.
From the Duracoat website:
"When is DuraCoat fully cured?
DuraCoat is dry to the touch in 20 minutes, can be handled in 1 hour and is ready for use overnight. Although DuraCoat will gain most of its final hardness, elasticity and chemical resistance over a 2-3 week period, time will continue to enhance DuraCoat's characteristics over a lifetime. DuraCoat, like fine wine, gets better with age. As we say, "DuraCoat wears in, not out."

03-10-2007, 3:40 PM
curing time 4-6 WEEKS!?!?

so you are expected to just put your un-used parts on a table for a month and a half or more? what if when dust collects on the parts?

It dries in a few hours, but doesn't acheive full strength until after 4-6 weeks. You can use the parts after letting them dry overnight if you wish, but don't abuse them too much. I hear waiting one week is good enough for moderate use. Personally I recommend Moly Resin, just toss it in the oven for an hour and its at full strength. It's also less sensitive to less-than-perfect preparation (although you still want to do your best of course.

03-10-2007, 4:10 PM
With duracoat you need to have the parts VERY well prepared in order for it to be super strong. Spray clean with the TruStrip stuff (it doesn't leave residue like brake cleaner) and blast with aluminum oxide. Let it dry and put together in a week (best to leave it alone for a bit.) After that 4 weeks is all you really need (in our climate) for it to cure very good. The stuff is pretty strong (I painted a few ak's). You know the selector on the ak (where it leaves a line exposing the metal from moving it up and down..) the duracoat doesn't come off. Very strong. It DOES say to spray more where there is more friction (like rails, selector area, etc.) If you use brake cleaner it doesn't stick on too well. Its better with trustrip.

03-11-2007, 9:15 PM
I just came in from the garage after duracoating an AK reciever and a few mags.

The kit was fairly simple but I kept loosing pressure from the can. I put it in water and voila!, good to go.

I sand blasted the parts, then parkerized them, then duracoated them.

While it says 2-3 weeks for a final cure, Brownells website says you can wait overnight or put them in the oven for an hour at 110 degrees and it will be fully cured. I don't know about that but a week sounds good.

I'll have to see how it does.