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RGERBER
12-04-2011, 6:12 PM
Bought a DMPS .308 lower and going to start a build, bought some Brownells Aluma Hyde 2 in and basically looking for advice from people who have use this product before.
I might even do a camo on it, again looking for advice.

MrPlink
12-04-2011, 7:04 PM
in can form or do you have a sprayer?

Either way, follow the directions and it works great!

Not as tough as some of the other options out there, but considering the cost I think it is a great product

ThatsJustBadTaste
12-04-2011, 7:32 PM
I used it for my EoTech...its a little glossy but a good match to FDE

shadow65
12-04-2011, 7:39 PM
Clean everything off with acetate first. I've used alumi9hyde on several weapons. If you are patient and let it cure, it's very tough. Takes about 7-10 days to fully cure.
Dave N

RGERBER
12-04-2011, 7:45 PM
in a can and no blaster, so I will have to sand

Cokebottle
12-04-2011, 7:55 PM
Wiped down with acetone.
One full WEEK between coats (I've had problems with followup coats of rattle can paint causing wrinkling/lifting and it seems to be more of a problem than it was prior to 1990).

This was all done with the rattle cans.

http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=125256&stc=1&d=1323056831


The color on the buffer tube is NOT olive drab, even though it has a green look to it due to the lighting. That is the "Coyote" and is a dead ringer for Magpul/Vltor FDE.

The dark brown and forest green are Krylon Camo.

Overall coat of Coyote.
One week later, I pulled fishnet over the parts, and, using cardboard held in my hand as an airbrushing mask, I shot the lighter tan.
Since the CAA version of FDE was lighter than the Magpul/Vltor, I concentrated the lighter tan on the FCG/grip area on the lower.

One week later, using paper plates with slots and holes, again as a hand-held airbrush mask, I applied the "sticks" and "leaves" with the Krylon.

Let that cure for a week, removed the fishnets, and applied Alumahyde flat clear.


Do take care on your masking.
I did the initial base coat with everything in pieces, then assembled for the rest of the job EXCEPT for the selector. I left that out and painted that separately.
I had a hell of a time getting it back into the lower, and even after it was in, it took a lot of work to get it to turn freely.
The takedown/pivot pins were also a major PITA.
Took a lot of work with sandpaper to get everything working, and this stuff is HARD once it cures.

SJgunguy24
12-04-2011, 8:59 PM
in can form or do you have a sprayer?

Either way, follow the directions and it works great!

Not as tough as some of the other options out there, but considering the cost I think it is a great product

What! Man IMO powder coat is the only thing that's tougher to get off of a firearm. When AH2 is cured properly it's tough as fricken nails. How tough is epoxy, cause that's what it is.

MrPlink
12-04-2011, 10:27 PM
What! Man IMO powder coat is the only thing that's tougher to get off of a firearm. When AH2 is cured properly it's tough as fricken nails. How tough is epoxy, cause that's what it is.

now that you mention it most of my experience with it is from bike/car parts where powder coating or chroming just wasnt worth it

X-NewYawker
12-04-2011, 10:29 PM
This:

Wiped down with acetone.
One full WEEK between coats (I've had problems with followup coats of rattle can paint causing wrinkling/lifting and it seems to be more of a problem than it was prior to 1990).

This was all done with the rattle cans.

http://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=125256&stc=1&d=1323056831


The color on the buffer tube is NOT olive drab, even though it has a green look to it due to the lighting. That is the "Coyote" and is a dead ringer for Magpul/Vltor FDE.

The dark brown and forest green are Krylon Camo.

Overall coat of Coyote.
One week later, I pulled fishnet over the parts, and, using cardboard held in my hand as an airbrushing mask, I shot the lighter tan.
Since the CAA version of FDE was lighter than the Magpul/Vltor, I concentrated the lighter tan on the FCG/grip area on the lower.

One week later, using paper plates with slots and holes, again as a hand-held airbrush mask, I applied the "sticks" and "leaves" with the Krylon.

Let that cure for a week, removed the fishnets, and applied Alumahyde flat clear.


Do take care on your masking.
I did the initial base coat with everything in pieces, then assembled for the rest of the job EXCEPT for the selector. I left that out and painted that separately.
I had a hell of a time getting it back into the lower, and even after it was in, it took a lot of work to get it to turn freely.
The takedown/pivot pins were also a major PITA.
Took a lot of work with sandpaper to get everything working, and this stuff is HARD once it cures.

RGERBER
12-05-2011, 7:19 AM
Cokebottle. so I need to plug the selector hole and tape the stem of the selector when I paint it separately?

keep the comments and pictures coming , I need the ideas and input.

Cokebottle
12-05-2011, 6:02 PM
Cokebottle. so I need to plug the selector hole and tape the stem of the selector when I paint it separately?

keep the comments and pictures coming , I need the ideas and input.
If I were to do it again, yes... I would have done that.
Couple of small rubber corks for the selector holes, remove immediately after spraying each coat to keep the paint from curing in a "lip".
Tape the selector stem, and it should go with a minimum of sanding once done.

The takedown/hinge pins are still going to be a problem, as there are exposed areas that still need paint on the hinge pin, and of course, unless you are using stick-on stencils for your camo, the upper and lower need to be assembled during painting.

Using pre-made stencils, I suppose you could apply the stencils, then separate the upper and lower, and plug the holes. Personally, I prefer "softer" camo so I use patterns cut in paper plates or cardboard and hold it an inch or two away from the surface and spray through the pattern... gives a nice soft edge, and the distance from the surface determines how sharp the edge is.

RGERBER
12-06-2011, 7:19 AM
Thank you for your insight