View Full Version : Swedish Mauser Conversion to .45acp, almost finished. Pics updated

12-04-2011, 8:08 AM
I'm turning a previously bubba'd swedish mauser into a different sort of animal.

It's got a bent bolt handle and I've ordered the trigger and finally cleared the funds to get the barrel. It'll be a .45 cal heavy-ish barrel of over 20" length probably close to 25" finished.

Just ordered my trigger. About to order my stock. Got the barrel arranged. I have to strip down the action and pull the barrel off for a nice polish and deep cold blueing.

So now the part I need help with: chambering. I know I've got a .480 rim diameter in the bolt as it sits and yeah I could open it up .030 but I don't wanna. So staying with a case having rim diameter of .480 and a bullet diameter of .452, I'd like a case that's as close to 2" long if possible. I'd like pressures to not exceed the 55K psi mark and I'd like to have 230gn JSP's moving at 2200-2500fps but no faster as I figure that will cause bullet fragmentation well enough as it is.

This is to be a deer and bear and pig gun. I want lots of stomp with a heavy bullet pokin' along at reasonable but not excessive velocity.

I'm thinking with a 25" barrel a .45winmag would do pretty well but what I'd really like is a .450 bushmaster case with a bigger rim.

So far I've gone through research on .45super, .460 rowland, .45 win mag in the browsing phase. Looking for options to consider. I'll give myself advice.

.458 socom looks good but I'll wait to hear some recommendations. Right now .45winmag is my first choice despite the short case length. I think it'll feed ok since it should pop out of the magazine and be inline with the chamber.

The simplest thing I guess I could do would be use an existing production .45acp conversion and use .45 super instead but I'd like about 500fps more and the option to use bullets heavier than 250gn.

let the flames lick.

12-04-2011, 11:16 AM

12-04-2011, 11:32 AM
Looks like you're probably a handloader? I'd guess that from the cartridges you're considering.

If so, why not just go for your own 2" wildcat based on shortened 30-06 brass?

12-05-2011, 5:52 AM
.30-06 brass would be fine if I were doing a 44cal but in .45 it'd require inside case reaming at a minimum which is more work than I want, don't think I didn't seriously consider it though (and the .45x2" which seems to be rare). I can buy pistol brass cheaper usually too. I am a handloader and reloader so I prefer really a good handload special. Right now all my rifle rounds are pretty much reload only propositions which is fine by me... I make better ammo than Federal anyway.

I like the .460 rowland and so far it's leading the pack. I'm still in the research phase though on finding a good parent case that won't take too much forming and reaming to still be fun in the 2" class.

12-05-2011, 6:10 AM
Well.. I just had a revelation. I don't like recoil, my shoulder won't take it at all and if I get anything in the 2" class it'll have plenty of it. So I'm going to back it down to just the .460. So now that I have that sorted out and a fine trigger on the way. Off to get my stock now.

12-05-2011, 8:21 AM
stock ordered. gun-stocks.com plain jane walnut safari style. Got my Bold side safety trigger on the way. Got my .45acp conversion from troup systems on the way too.

It'll take like 6 weeks to get my stock and another few to finish it. Should be enough time to get the barrel contour figured out and to get everything stripped and re-blued.

Should probably look appreciably like the following when done:

12-05-2011, 9:26 AM
conversion kit ordered. 60 bucks is really quite a low price.

12-05-2011, 9:50 AM
That's a great price for the conversion.

I'm in full agreement on recoil, although if you did want to do the 2" I think you could avoid reaming. If you designed the chamber to allow for thick unreamed brass at the neck, you could avoid reaming, but also have a heavier case mouth to headspace on.

(I know you aren't going with this plan, but for the sake of fun...)
You could go with a 1.5" case made from .308 brass cut off at the shoulder. The case would probably be close to the right thickness to make for a minimum (.002" to .004") taper from base to mouth and a healthy headspacing surface at the mouth.

How are you thinking about the final configuration? Very light? medium weight with no recoil? Light barrel? Heavy barrel?

12-05-2011, 1:05 PM
Not sure about the final configuration. Profile of the barrel is still way up in the air. Thinking about all kinds of options including some pretty wild fluting or long and skinny and even embers of a DeLisle looking fire burning in there. The biggest point of fixed design consideration so far has been to stick with the 1911 mag fed option. It makes things a lot simpler in places.

I have 2'+ of barrel length to work with but ultimately I'll probably end up walking around with it so it'll almost certainly end up as a rather thickish mid-length tube with a red dot on top or the possibility of keeping the williams peep sight and putting a front sight on the new tube.

12-05-2011, 2:26 PM
I'd definitely go peep and post, but I'm not crazy about red dots myself. Iron sights make for a sleeker carry rifle.

Consider that more length gives you the ability to take advantage of slower powders for a little more punch from the short case.

I think a 20" pencil barrel would be great. I'd go shorter if I was going with anything but a light barrel. I think light weight is one of the big advantages of a rifle in a caliber like this. Also remember that there will be little recoil and that means you need less wood for stock strength and you can thin it down a good deal. Probably a fairly short length of pull for quick shouldering.

Of course the options are endless. This is just my two cents.

Edit to add: since the case is fully supported, does it make sense to use the heavier (less capacity) 460 brass rather than loading ACP brass hotter?

gun toting monkeyboy
12-05-2011, 3:39 PM
I would look at a shorter, thicker barrel. Something that is fairly stiff without being too heavy. It basically looks like you are making a beefier version of the Destroyer Carbine. I know that one still sees a lot of use on critters as large as deer in Spain. Yours should be interesting once it is done.


12-06-2011, 6:49 AM
I want to use the heavier brass because of the ability for it to take high pressures. There's a little bug in my head telling me that ACP brass just isn't going to hold 40K no matter how supported the case is since it's still pretty thin and fragile down at the web. I'll still get probably 1400fps with the heavier bullets and little ol' 165's should be neato for bunny killin with 1800fps on them. I'll need the rowland brass' strength to really stretch the capabilities of the tiny powder chamber and not have to worry about pressure issues.

If the rowland doesn't make me happy then I can always have the chamber recut and make a 2" based on 6.5 swede brass (which will have a little natural taper to it for easier extraction).

12-06-2011, 7:00 AM
So for giggles, anyone want to open RCBS load and plug in a 6.5 swede case (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:6.5x55-SE-scheme.svg)cut at 2.2" and having a 300gn .452 JFP and something like 40gns of 4895 and a regular LRP and see what it says that will get from say a 20" and a 24" tube.

12-10-2011, 12:35 PM
Ok, on load data I'm finding what I'll call ridiculous overcharging of .45acp cases to be way too common. People literally double charging .45acp brass and counting on the web to hold the pressure. While I fully plan on hitting 40K psi I do not plan to do it from brass too weak to take the heat, I'll go ahead and use the rowland brass. You gotta love these guys though... their load development for bolt action .45acp seems to be "stuff the powder in till the primers go really flat".

Looks like I'm going to need to pick up some AA#7 and a pile of brass. Brass is cheap for it at least. Looks like I'll be slapping ~17gns under a 200gn JSWC as a starting load.

12-10-2011, 1:13 PM
Ok... just for flexibility sake I'm thinking of using .460 rowland brass and cutting it down to .45acp trim length. COAL will be the same, but I'll be able to use the properly headstamped .460 brass AND .45acp loads in the same chamber with correct headspacing. All I really wanted from the rowland cartridge was the case strength anyway so I can push the rounds really hard.


Yes, I do own .45acp guns but I keep my ammo well segregated since I handload pretty much everything I shoot and most of my guns are chambered for uncommon or wildcat rounds. You have to adopt that sort of mentality when you have a .223 and a 6x45. I've taken to mic-ing my rifle ammo if I'm not sure and pulling it apart if there's any question after that so I'm not concerned in the least about accidentally putting a 460 round in my glock (actually working on a glock conversion to .460 too which really solves the problem)

12-10-2011, 2:04 PM
I can't think of any 45 caliber cartridge with a rebated rim except the 458 Socom that has the .473 rim diameter. Certainly nothing that is worth putting in a bolt rifle.

12-10-2011, 2:59 PM
worth is a relative term. low recoil, not loud, cheap shooting, mag fed, bolt gun. It's a toy for the whole family and a decent pig/deer/coyote gun.

I thought about socom. wanted more shooting, less bang.

12-16-2011, 6:42 AM
Got my barrel. It's huge and really makes me wish this was a free state. It would be so easy to lop off the last 10" of barrel and make a VERY effective can. But alas, no. I'll just chop off the last 10" of barrel. Why? Well... with the small boiler room the powder is burned up before it even gets to legal rifle length and in the research I'm seeing done (some very nicely done experiments) I saw a pretty even constant of the bullets starting to slow down after 17". Some of the loads were well... startling. Guys are deliberately getting .45acp cases over 35000psi. eeeek

So, got my trigger and barrel delivered. I've done the basic disassembly but need an action wrench so I can get the barrel off. I'm going to have the chamber reaming and length cut for me but I'll try and do the rest myself as far as I can.

Rowland brass arrives today. I'm hoping to have the rifle finished around end of February. Need to find a good local smithy and get that barrel cut and drilled.

Modified the rails on the action last night so a .45acp case can pass through. Polished the ramp just a bit. I'll fit the trigger tonight when I get home and let you guys know how that looks. It's a Bold trigger of effectively a Timney design. Seems nice so far. Anything will be better than the trigger it came with.

Pics later today.

Also thinking of picking up a 1911.

12-17-2011, 7:26 AM
Trigger is mounted and I gotta say the Bold brand trigger is everything my Timney's are but cost about 2/3 as much. Install was stupid easy pull is a glass rod at 3.5lbs with almost no overtravel. The stock inletting required is nothing short of extensive and I practiced on the bubba'd out stock that the donor action came in so I could learn how to do it right and what tools I'd need. Note to self, inlet the good stock with the trigger off the action. Looks like a dremel with a few different bits and an absurd amount of patience and care will turn out a good result. The side safety is the hardest part to clearance so I pulled the thing off and re-bent it so it clears the action by a smaller margin and requires less of the stock to be cut away.

Got my first batch of 100 .460 rowland brass cases from starline and trimmed about half down to .45acp length. I'll start putting together some loaded ammo later today. Gotta go pick up a 1911 (because I want to buy one and can), some AA#7 powder and some more bullets or maybe some gas checks for some moly coated lead slugs i have laying around.

(pics being processed)

12-24-2011, 7:09 AM
Got my conversion kit in the mail yesterday. First thing I did was run out and install it. Also removed the barrel from the mauser and from my 1895 steyr (fixina' make a .44mag to match). If you have an action wrench then removing a barrel is easy, without it it is impossible. Get the right tools, glad I did.

The Troup Systems mauser conversion is pretty simple. Took some whittlin' with the dremel to clearance the mag-well for the 1911 mag release. That's in and works great.

I found out that the barrel I'd paid to have threaded was threaded with the wrong pitch so I have to pay again to have that correctly done and the chamber cut. I won't do those operations as I lack proper tooling.

Today I'll be continuing to polish and strip the metal on all the parts and get ready to do the bluing. I got a birchwood casey blue kit and some flitz which makes all the shining up and bluing pretty easy. I got the bolt shined up nicely last night and got a nice start on the action.

I'm just waiting on the stock now. As soon as that comes in I'll be ready to take the barrel down to the gunsmith and have it re-threaded, chamber cut and installed into the action.

Here's pics from last week.


More pics later

12-24-2011, 10:02 AM
Polished and blued the barrel.

Love how those barrel threads don't fit.

A view of the adapter in the action.

Shiny barrel

12-24-2011, 9:38 PM
got the barrel thread issue dealt with. Amazing what .001 does to fit. Took some wet/dry and burned off the sharp edge from the barrel threads and it fit better. A little time with the barrel vice and action wrench and now that problem is solved. Definitely going to have to have the breech face cut as I can't close the bolt with the barrel threaded all the way in. It's 1 full rotation plus 20 degrees worth of interference. I'll be taking it to get the chamber cut on Monday or Tuesday. I'll have to have the muzzle end milled with a dovetail for the front sight and the rear milled for the scope base I have for it.

1 trip to the gunsmith away from being able to do final assembly of the metal parts. Still waiting for my stock to show up. That'll be a LOT of work all on its own.

02-13-2012, 10:08 AM
Bought a second small ring. A 1916 made Spanish Mauser. Just ordered the last kit from Troup Systems and a 2nd barrel. Sick of dikking around trying to find Gunsmiths that are worth what is in my opinion, a tinkers cuss, that being that they have tools, materials and skills needed to simply chamber a barrel blank. So far they're what I'll call, less than ideal around here and want all the money in the world to drill a friggin hole.

Figure I'll just have pairs of all my guns if this keeps up. This one will probably get an optic of some sort... probably just a RDS.

02-16-2012, 6:34 AM
Pulled apart the 1893 (spanish). it's got some really secksy figure in the wood on the stock so I'm going to spend a little effort and refinish it. Get the gloss poly coating pulled off and get back to natural wood, trim the wrist a little for a slimmer feel and then slap the BLO finish on it.

Troup Systems is "two weeks" from having more barrels. Dammit. I also picked up a 1893 Remington No.3 12ga. It's a single shot that cocks with a lever on the left side of the frame. Needs a few parts and all the screws but it'll be workable again soon. going to have to have the screw holes in the receiver welded and re-tapped or maybe just filled with silver solder and re-threaded. They've been stripped out by previous owners to one degree or another.

02-18-2012, 9:28 AM
mag release came in for the 1893 .45acp conversion. I've begun to strip the glossy poly finish from the stock and will re-finish it with some classy BLO and steel wool. I'm going to reshape the front to be a little more slender.

side project, I've NAILED the lines I wanted on my M95 Steyr stock and will be ordering my replacement bolt head and firing pin today. It's going to be a .500 S&W magnum :). I found out why the bolt was being so recalcitrant in releasing from battery, there's a bunch of cosmoline hardened on the bolt in the channels that move through the rear of the receiver. Interference fitting grrrrr. So a little fine sandpaper and steel wool cleaned that junk up and it's working smoother again. Need to find a barrel in .500 calibre now and decide on a length. I'm thinking I'll let it be at 18".

My 1893 remington no. 3 12 ga has had all but a couple parts ordered for it and the stock refinishing started. Someone took a black magic marker to it at some point and made an ugly line. I knew it wasn't a grain line. Anyway, the wood is pretty but nothing super special like the mauser's wood.

I'll see about taking some pics of all the project guns today so you can all call me an idiot or a meany or a hero depending on personal inclination and ogle the pain a bit.

I'm going to pull the big heavy barrel off the swede and give it to the spanish mauser. The swede has a receiver sight already installed so it makes more sense to use it as the open sight gun. The spanish mauser lacks the thumb notch for feeding from stripper clips in the side of the receiver anyway so will need more extensive conversion and will get an optic since it'll have the long heavy barrel.

Current project guns:
1. 1893 Remington No. 3 12ga side cocker restore from parts gun
2. Steyr M95 re-militarize and .500 S&W magnum conversion, restore from De-MIL'd dress training rifle
3. Savage M1921 12ga takedown, restoration from neglect and repair
4. M1896/38 Swedish Mauser, conversion to .45acp, re-stock, upgrade trigger, iron sights, tapered barrel
5. M1893/1916 Spanish Mauser conversion to .45acp, upgrade trigger, optic, long bull barrel
6. Mossberg 5500 12ga repair (gas handling system, bolt buffer, firing pin, choke)
7. Savage 110 .30-06 restock, upgrade trigger, upgrade optic
8. Springfield loaded 1911, schuemann barrel, configure for .45super, custom grips, minor other mods

02-19-2012, 10:45 AM
from the list above here's a pic as promised. Didn't include the savage 110 or springfield as everyone knows what those look like on the outside.

The stuff below is all going to be hopefully finished before the end of the year.


02-19-2012, 10:48 AM
45/90 sounds like what your wanting.

02-20-2012, 7:26 AM
It was considered for the m95 steyr but I decided on the 500 S&W for that. For the mausers I decided that I just wanted to blast with them and maybe do pig and small game hunting so I didn't need all the extra power/blast/recoil from the really long cases. The .460 rowland brass lets me bump the power up and work up 1800-2000 FPS for those times when I want it (pig hunting). I can live with 1200fps out of standard pressure .45acp for the rest of the shooting though.

Numrich has sent my latest batch of spare parts. Wednesday should be interesting.

02-26-2012, 11:53 AM
Ok... almost completed this project. Enough is done so that pics are useful and can tell something of the rest of the story.

Stock is a Richards Microfit in plain straight grain. Plain is something of a misnomer, it's straight grained this much is true but there's fiddleback and coloration that I'd expect in a higher grade stock. The stock has been sanded and inletted in a number of places (minor) and given a first coat of BLO.

I got the stock and looked at it and while it was a bit rough in places it sanded well enough. I knew there was going to be a lot of fiddleback in the wood... I could see it in the raw stick. I'm really glad there was as much as there is. Took several hours of sanding to get the smoothness I wanted. I still have a few coats of BLO left to do but those will be done with 000 steel wool.








02-26-2012, 11:58 AM
Moar pics





02-28-2012, 5:53 AM
Ok, I did a first pass at bluing the barrel and lock ring and then did a little shaping work to the stock fore end. I had a Mossberg 800ASM rifle once which had the cutest little back-cut fore end tip and I really liked the lines of it but wanted something less angular for this one. My wife only cared that it be rounded or slimmed so it'd look good.

I took a rasp and fine file and some sandpaper to the front and I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. Keep in mind this is freehand work with hand tools, no power tools and no jigs or anything... just an eye for symmetry and a sculptors persistence.

I also slapped another coat of BLO on the wood but I doubt that will be very visible. The wood is very smooth now with just a couple spots that need some more attention. BTW.. appears I failed to mention it earlier, the wood is Black Walnut.




02-28-2012, 6:37 AM
that is awesome!

02-28-2012, 7:47 AM

So project cost:

Rifle: freebie (well, I traded a bow I got for free and 50 rounds of 50gr varmint grenade .223 handloads for it) If I had to buy a swede action, i'd have used a $100 VZ24 or 93 or 95 instead. The swede was bubba'd bad though and needed to be resurrected from the pits of hell.

Conversion Kit: 160

Magazine: 8

Mag release kit: 25

boiled linseed oil: 10

Sandpaper: 10

Bluing kit: 15

So the whole cost including all the gunsmithing that I didn't have to have done (sarcasm) was just a tit over 300 bucks. Now find me a .45acp chambered detachable mag fed rifle that can stand up to extremely hot loads (like hot .460 rowland loads) that you can have for that little. I hear cries of Marlin Camp 45 and AR-15's but we're not able to even include those since they're semi-auto and can't probably take the whippin of really hot loads and those are expensive options. If you want to just shoot regular ol .45acp they're fine but if you want more power capacity from the same case and you're a handloader, this is a great option.

After talking with a couple people I trust on the subject matter, I've come to the conclusion that setting up the headspacing as tight as I did was a great idea. A no-go is a not good. A field gauge is probably still no good. What I did was make my final no-go out of a .460 rowland case that I'd trimmed down. I may yet set the thing tighter. We'll see after this weekend.

02-28-2012, 8:07 AM
Glad you like it! I still aint done nothing with that bow lmao it just sits in the closet, glad one of us are happy from the trade lol.
You should let me shoot it lol.
Glad you like it!

02-28-2012, 9:26 AM
deal, come over sunday and we'll go to the range (range fees are like 14 bucks). My other bow sits on the wall, don't feel bad. They're important to have for when there's no more bullets available. I've got some more .223 for ya too.

I just put the final payment in on a redhawk .44mag and a 12ga O/U so I'm basically done gathering guns now. Time to trim the collection a tad actually.

02-28-2012, 11:07 AM
Need to thin the herd huh?...sell me that small ring spanish mauser you picked up a couple weeks ago.:D

Your rifle is looking good! Waiting for the range report/video.

02-29-2012, 7:13 AM
negative on the small ring ghostrider. That's going to become my 2nd .45acp. I went last night and finished the work that had been hogging my weekends for a while. Now that I'm free of that I'll try to get out this weekend and actually shoot the thing. I want to set up some rowland loads too before then but I need to figure out what bullets I want to use for that. I have some plain ol properly jacketed ball which I guess will work but I'd like to try something in a different shape. A good jacketed flat nose or soft point would be perfect.

03-04-2012, 7:31 AM
Range Report:

Went to the range, had a few people ask about the gun and then they pulled some seriously azzhat moves with doubting Thomas kind of comments about the gun exploding. Consider that it's made very well, and looks the part. Pissed me off. The douchebag in the parking lot of livermore range was lucky I didn't knock him cold out for his comment. If I hadn't been so dead set of testing out the mauser I would have just plain flattened him. Fortunately later on I got to hear him trying to BS about his military service to a bunch of fresh discharge-ees and they took care of the problem and he drank a bunch of STFU and skulked off.

I get to the bench and stuff a test load (5 grains unique, Win LPP, WCC 4th fire brass, 230gn FMJ, not plated) in the mag, feeds right in, sight on 7 yards using bag rests, flick off the safety and stand up and to the side (in case of a case rupture, it was 4th fire on that brass) and pinch the trigger. CLAK, firing pin moves forward and nothing happens. Reset the firing pin, same round in the chamber, CLAK. Pulled the round and i see a super light primer strike. DAMMIT. Put a new round in (I wanted to make at least 1 fire), set up again, CLAK. LONGSTRINGOFCURSEWORDS. Looks like the firing pin is 8-10 thousands short. I shortened it to where I thought it was ok using 1200 grit sandpaper prior to headspacing because the pin was so far out of the bolt face that I was SURE I'd get a primer pierce. Well, lesson learned. Polish, test, polish, test, polish, test, etc...

Ordered a new firing pin from numrich and we'll try again next weekend. This time I'll start with a primed empty case in the garage (bucket-o-dirt makes a good primer test noise trap) and see how deep the pin pokes the primer. If it pierces it at least it won't hurt.

I also shot my Springfield loaded, Glock 21, Helwan brigadier (with the laser), dan wesson 15-4VH .357mag, and the Mk III .22. All were flawless with my reloads.

I had one bit of interesting result, the Dan Wesson running .38 specials with 5grains unique and a 125gn soft lead bullets. Massive leading and a good bit of unburned powder showing up on the bench. So they're clearly too hot for the alloy I was using, that's going to be backed down a bit but I'm wondering if I can add some crimp (there's no crimp right now, I default to no crimp) and get a little more complete combustion and maybe that could help cut back the leading a tit. The load should have generated about 900fps. I guess I'll back it down to 800fps. The loads felt a little warm for unjacketed bullets but they were in the middle of the range from my speer manual. Meh... It was still fun.

Springfield returned rewards for my handloading consistency. 7 yards offhand and I was making 7-shot 1" groups rapid fire. If I slowed down the groups got dramatically smaller with large ragged holes being left after 7 shots. The Glock returned similar grouping at short range but it didn't seem to matter if it was rapid fire or slow fire. The helwan shot well with no problems. I also put a new set of grips on the helwan.

03-04-2012, 7:48 AM
Hope your able to fi the firing pin problem. Your rifle is a beauty.

03-04-2012, 7:51 AM
Thanks much! yeah, it's easy as fixes go, just replace it. Cost me 25 bucks though so next time I'll be a little less cautious about the pin length and a LOT more cautious about my testing before going to full pressure rounds.

03-04-2012, 8:20 AM
that is a cool rifle IMO, makes me want to convert my mauser

03-04-2012, 8:51 AM
I echo all the comments above.

Just me, the original 6.5x55 would have been fine for me.

That leaves you to expand the limits.


Fix that darn black chair next !!! :)

03-04-2012, 10:21 AM
NAW! that chair is my being destructive randomly at platform. I get all mad and feel rage starting to build so I go and destroy that chair a little. Then when it's beer and south-park time, I sit there and watch beer and drink south park hehe.

I still have the original 6.5 barrel and I can revert the gun at any time. Believe me, I'm a super fan of 6.5x55 especially if you handload for it but the barrel that was on it was short and got massively hot after just 5 rounds and it's a bit spendy to shoot so this is the best way to not leave it sitting forgotten in the back of the safe.

I gotta say I felt a little bad about using a swede action as the donor but it was cheap and available at the time and in need of shining up. I'm working on my Spanish mauser conversion today. Gotta run out here in a minute and get a new drill bit for that.

Conversion kit is so cheap, I think of it as why not have one for each mauser I have. If I manage to shoot the barrels out of them then I still have .45acp/.460rowland capability. I guess that whole idea is predicated on having an action wrench and a set of vise jaws with a barrel channel in it (or a block of wood and a regular vise) and go/no-go headspace gauges on hand.

Thanks though guys. I fully expected a nasty lambasting for using a swede action

03-09-2012, 6:30 AM
Got my new firing pin and fitted it. Note to self, those are not drop in parts they can also be hard to fit. Tested it out and it fired a primed empty case just fine. I set the primer in the case but didn't seat it as deep as normal (deliberately trying for a primer pierce) and put it in the quiet bucket and touched it off. Popped the spent case out and inspected the primer. While it was tapped pretty good, it was not pierced.

1 more case, this time primer set to proper normal depth. Quiet bucket, fire, extract and inspect. Normal looking primer strike.

I'm hoping I don't have to shorten this firing pin. We'll find out tomorrow. I'm going shooting.

03-09-2012, 7:51 AM
With standard 45acp loads you can pierce a primer in that rifle and not even know it. I did the trimming on my firing pin at the range.

How is the feeding on yours? Did you end up having to make a bullet guide?

03-09-2012, 8:19 AM
That wood is going to look great - terrific figure there. Since you already have the peep rear, maybe a Lyman 17 with inserts for the front sight is a good choice. I use various globe fronts and the difference between a post and a round insert is dramatic assuming one still has the eyes for such a set up.

03-09-2012, 12:36 PM
With standard 45acp loads you can pierce a primer in that rifle and not even know it. I did the trimming on my firing pin at the range.

How is the feeding on yours? Did you end up having to make a bullet guide?

Feeding has been great. I have to work the bolt with deliberation but nothing super fast. I'm champing at the bit to get some .460 cased loads running which'll be substantially higher pressure so I want to make a reasonable effort at getting the protrusion just right. Can't wait for tomorrow, finally get to shoot it.

That wood is going to look great - terrific figure there. Since you already have the peep rear, maybe a Lyman 17 with inserts for the front sight is a good choice. I use various globe fronts and the difference between a post and a round insert is dramatic assuming one still has the eyes for such a set up.

yeah, the post front is kinda coarse. I'm looking at replacements but I got a talkin' to by the wife for the number of and expense of gun parts I've gotten lately so i have to wait till next month on that. I'll take a peek at the 17, thanks for the tip.

03-10-2012, 12:57 PM
just got back from the range. Shot about 70 rounds from the rifle. mouse farts the lot of them. velocity from my unicorn fart loads was ~820, my midrange loads were closer to 880 and the full power loads were 950, all with 230gr bullets though profiles varied. Since this was its first time out of the gate I didn't go full retard with testing protocols, this was just a function check really.

Magazine feeding is less than perfect but once you have the knack it's not bad and you can actually get a full mag through it without stoppage. Extraction is perfect and the firing pin protrusion is about .003" longer than I'd like so the primer indents are a tad dramatic but there were no pierces or any similar issues. I will be going to magnum primers though for the full house rowland loads.

Accuracy was fantastic if I kept the loads from the same lot. Drop at 100 yards was pretty heavy. I'd have to aim at the back-line on a deer using retail .45acp loads. My next trip will be with much stouter loads.

Recoil.. hehe that's there but it's also not. If you don't hold tight it'll slap you a bit but if you do hold snug then it's just barely noticable.

Got plenty of looks at the range, a few comments, not all snide.

pics and video coming.