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mud99
12-03-2011, 4:27 PM
So, for various reasons, and due to my overwhelming stupidity, I have a live round chambered and jammed in my 1911, at my house.

I have tried to pull the slide back with huge amounts of force, but the round will not release.

I was about to bang it on a block of wood, but then my better judgement FINALLY kicked in, and I realized I was an idiot.

So here is my dillema - I can't legally drive the loaded gun to the range or a gunsmith to fire it, and I can't discharge it (i'm within city limits).

Option 1: I could call the police, and explain the situation, and see if they can somehow take care of it.
Option 2: I could just dig a hole and bury it in the backyard, and get a new 1911.
Option 3: Take it to the range discreetly???
Option 4: Bang it on a block of wood and pray?
Option 5: Score! I have a new permanently loaded home defense gun.
Option 6: Apply for CCW and wait? Is this good cause?

What do the wise people of calguns advise? Any other options i'm not thinking of?

freonr22
12-03-2011, 4:28 PM
Can you take the slide off the frame?

mud99
12-03-2011, 4:30 PM
BTW it would be awesome if I could somehow resolve this situation before my wife comes home.

Robidouxs
12-03-2011, 4:30 PM
First option

First remove the magazine. Attempt to then remove the slide.


Second option
For this other option start with engaging the safety.

The other option is to push the plunger into the gun, releasing the spring tension. Rotate the bushing since the plunger is no longer engaged. This will remove an area of tension.

mud99
12-03-2011, 4:31 PM
No, to take the slide off you need to pull it back to the disassembly point so that you can remove the pin.

I could cut the pin off, but that would be a shame :(

freonr22
12-03-2011, 4:32 PM
Is the safety off? Pics please? I'm sure we can help?

mud99
12-03-2011, 4:33 PM
Magazine is already out.

mud99
12-03-2011, 4:35 PM
When I am trying to pull the slide back, i am turning the safety off.

I could go take pics, but it basically looks like an ordinary 1911, ready to fire.

The round wasn't sized properly, so thats why it jammed up.

mud99
12-03-2011, 4:36 PM
is their a secret way to release the extractor from outside the gun?

efnick
12-03-2011, 4:38 PM
I hope some of your suggestions are jokes, they are funny! If your slid is really jammed and you fire it, it may or may not be a kaboom, considering the slide may or may not be in full battery.

CC Gunsmithing
12-03-2011, 4:39 PM
Where are you located?
least risk option would be to punch out the mainspring housing pin, then the guts (sear and spring, disconnector, hammer, then take off the firing pin stop and drop out the firing pin...) Do you have a full length guide rod? If not, at this point you can try to smack the slide at the guide rod and try to unlock the breech...
With a full length guide rod, you're in a little tougher situation...
http://i1201.photobucket.com/albums/bb344/CCGunsmithing/100_0548.jpg

Josh3239
12-03-2011, 4:40 PM
Another remove the frame. Had a buddy with his grandfather's old 1911 that was jammed loaded, with a little bit of muscle the slide popped off.

mud99
12-03-2011, 4:40 PM
CC Commander, I just pm'd you my location. I am close by.

223556
12-03-2011, 4:41 PM
If the slide is stuck and you were able to fire the round inside, would that cause boom or damage to the pistol? Im no 1911 expert but just a though. Hope you get it out with no damage to the pistol!

stormvet
12-03-2011, 4:42 PM
I had a similar thing happen to me. But my round had already been fired just no powder in the reload so the primer just had enough power to push the bullet into the rifling but not clear the shell casing. Ended up placing the muzzle on a block of wood on my reload bench and smacking the frame (grip) with a rubber malate, it worked. You most likly will not have to hit it very hard and the worse thing that will happen is a neg. discharge putting a hole in your work bench. But I really doubt that will happen if your 1911 has a firing pin safety.

mud99
12-03-2011, 4:45 PM
I am worried that if I hammer it, the trigger would go off. It has a very light trigger.

kimber_ss
12-03-2011, 4:46 PM
Don't allow anything to rush the situation. Take it slow and post some pics for the experienced members here. Safety trumps the value of the gun and anyone who could be injured including your self.

BTW it would be awesome if I could somehow resolve this situation before my wife comes home.

ojisan
12-03-2011, 4:54 PM
Wrap some tape around the hammer or put a cushion of some kind in between the hammer and the slide to prevent discharge if the hammer drops for some reason.

stormvet
12-03-2011, 4:55 PM
Dont forget your gun has a grip safety and possible a firing pin safety. If niether of these safety's are de-activated it should not fire.

But we do not know your gun, condition safety's etc.

mud99
12-03-2011, 4:56 PM
I think that's the best idea yet.

Mr.1904
12-03-2011, 4:59 PM
Just bite the bullet and take it to a gun smith.

stormvet
12-03-2011, 5:03 PM
I would not go anywhere near the trigger but securing your hammer with duck tape to your beavertail is a very good idea this should keep the hammer from falling and not allow the grip safety to be de-activated.

huckberry668
12-03-2011, 5:03 PM
to make the gun safe from firing,
1. put safety on
2. push the main spring housing pin out and remove mainspring housing. now the hammer won't work.
3. Remove grip panels,
4. remove frame safety, hammer assembly. now it's safe. if you have a series 80, firing pin block will stop the firing pin from moving forward or cause slam fire.

IrishPirate
12-03-2011, 5:05 PM
first off, write every political leader you can think of asking for the ban of these dangerous weapons which refuse to unload without being shot. obviously they were made with the sole purpose of taking a life, and will not be put to rest without tasting blood.

Then, make sure there are no children around for the gun to sneak up on and kill. Keep an eye on it because guns have been scientifically proven to favor killing innocent children and family members.

after that, put a trigger lock on it, lock it in a safe, put the safe in another safe, buy some insurance on the gun and the safes, destroy all the keys for the lock and safes, and board your house up like an abandoned property. that is the only safe way to store a gun.

then call the police and have them bring a bomb squad. your house will need to be completely surrounded by police officers on overtime with 24 hour coverage while you wait for them to clear out the neighborhood for 6 blocks in all directions. obviously at least 2 helicopters will be needed.

fianlly, if you can find someone brave enough to be in the same room as the gun, make sure they are a qualified gunsmith who can try to talk to the gun and keep it calm while the bomb squad loads it into a steel lined brick container and brings it outside. (If SWAT isn't on standby, people WILL lose their lives!) Have the bomb squad cover the gun in thermite and light it. the gun will be melted down safely and will never be able to kill anyone!!!

after that's done, dedicate all your time through the next election to campaigning for stricter regulation of guns and enhanced safety measures to keep them from going on murderous rampages. Make sure to have all handguns listed as destructive devices and covered by a federal assault weapons ban that will remain in effect for ever.

the children will thank you...

mikey357
12-03-2011, 5:08 PM
I am worried that if I hammer it, the trigger would go off. It has a very light trigger.

At least wire or duct tape hammer so it cannot strike the firing pin.

huckberry668
12-03-2011, 5:12 PM
BTW, I wouldn't fire the gun if I were you. It could very well be obstructions causing the cartridge to be jammed up in the chamber. you'd blow it up if you fire it.

There is no way to remove the ejector and firing pin safely. to do that you'd need to remove the firing pin stop plate. To remove the firing pin stop, you'd need to push the firing pin in towards the live primer. Get the picture?

bjl333
12-03-2011, 5:14 PM
Zip tie the hammer in place!!

mrdd
12-03-2011, 5:14 PM
I have had this happen due to a case with an out of spec rim that wedged in the extractor claw.

Grasp the slide tightly with one hand, grasp the grip with all fingers below the trigger guard. Point in a safe direction, and push forward smartly with the grip hand. You may have to do it more than once. Don't be afraid to use a lot of force. It should eject if you work at it.

ETA: Also make sure you get the slide all the way into battery before you try to eject the case. The case needs to be passed through the extractor claw, and getting it all the way into battery is the first half of the exercise.

G-forceJunkie
12-03-2011, 5:16 PM
As others have mentioned, I would secure the hammer by wiring it up, zipties, tape a wedge of wood between the hammer and slide, etc. Then punch the mains spring housing out so the hammer is no longer under tension. Then I would hold the front edge of the slide or bushing on the corner of a bench, and apply forward pressure on the frame. Perhaps a wood dowel or screwdriver through the triggerguard and push down.

JTROKS
12-03-2011, 5:19 PM
NO! Do not push the slide into full battery position. Doing so will shove the offending round deeper into chamber making it harder to remove.

Usually advice doing this clearing procedure at the range. Since it will take a little help disassembling the firing mechanism and if you feel you can do this safely at home then here it is. Under no circumstances I'm taking any responsibility in the event you have an ND or AD.

First remove magazine from gun if there is one. Bt pointing the gun towards a safe direction holding gun strong hand only finger off trigger. Place non shooting hand over slide hold the slide firmly and with the web and palm of shooting hand thrust forward around the grip safety area giving it a bit of impact. If that doesn't clear it then go to next method.
Got this from THR and will save plenty of time typing w/ my IPhone.

Depress the front Bushing 'Button', rotate and remove the Bushing and Spring...Keep finger away from Trigger...one hand hold the Pistol with thumb on the grip safety, and, fingers on top the slide pulling back, and, with non marring tool, hit the front of the Slide 'back'...should disengage, free up, eject.

Swollen Cartridge, or debris or Lead on the Cartridge lip can cause a jam of this sort...the extractor is holding the Slide where it is, Slide is unable to chamber the round, unable to to eject...round stuck partially chambered.

Dowel Rod may work also, through the Barrel, for tapping the stuck round 'back'...light taps...should do it.

huckberry668
12-03-2011, 5:23 PM
squirt some WD40 down the bore to loosen up the round and try push the slide open again.

A friend of mine was shooting some out of spec (Glock brass) reloaded ammo thru my Beretta last week and lock the gun up just like yours did. What ammo is yours?

Kruzr
12-03-2011, 5:57 PM
One more thing to try:
1. Put your right thumb under the beavetail and wrap your fingers over the top of the slide.

2. Put your left thumb in the front of the trigger guard and wrap your fingers over the top of the slide.

3. Close your hands (squeeze) at the same time quickly and as hard as you can.

cindynles
12-03-2011, 5:58 PM
squirt some WD40 down the bore to loosen up the round and try push the slide open again.

A friend of mine was shooting some out of spec (Glock brass) reloaded ammo thru my Beretta last week and lock the gun up just like yours did. What ammo is yours?

Squirt ALOT of WD40 down the barrel and in the back of the chamber (like a whole can) and let it soak. This should kill the primer. Secure the hammer with duct tape or a zip tie and it SHOULD be safe to transport to a gunsmith (in a locked container).

Mickey D
12-03-2011, 6:04 PM
Zip tie the hammer in place!!

^ Then with the safety off, lightly tap a dowel down the barrel to dislodged the round, while applying reward force to the slide. Probably won't take much force. This will allow the slide to release and pull back.

natrab
12-03-2011, 6:05 PM
I think there's been lots of good advice so far. I'm curious as to how this all went...

mud99
12-03-2011, 6:06 PM
Ok, the gun is cleared. Thanks everyone for all the quick help.

I ended up using a couple of zip ties to prevent the hammer from dropping, and removed the mainspring. At that point I removed the recoil spring, and then held the gun upwards, and pulled back on the slide while wacking it with a rubber mallet.

It gave, and the round popped out.

After putting the round in the loose chamber afterwards, the bullet was not far enough in. I will have to consult with the reloading gurus, because I am not doing something properly.

Also, I don't think the round had chambered properly, and it would have been a mistake to fire it.

Now I just need to figure out how to put everything back together.

Munk
12-03-2011, 6:11 PM
Squirt ALOT of WD40 down the barrel and in the back of the chamber (like a whole can) and let it soak. This should kill the primer. Secure the hammer with duct tape or a zip tie and it SHOULD be safe to transport to a gunsmith (in a locked container).

it would only kill the primer if it could reach the primer from the inside. Squirting wd40 on metal (the exposed part of the primer in a finished cartridge) would just clean and lube it.

CC Gunsmithing
12-03-2011, 6:24 PM
the way it came apart, sans live round of course... Congrats! Glad to hear it was cleared without incident!

Ubermcoupe
12-03-2011, 7:08 PM
Ok, the gun is cleared. Thanks everyone for all the quick help.
...
Now I just need to figure out how to put everything back together.

Glad to hear its (and you) clear and safe.

Are you remembering to crimp your brass after seating the bullet? Maybe your depth setting isnít deep enough. I canít imagine why your round didnít make it into battery successfully, but maybe some pictures would help. :D

What kind of RL setup are you running? Brass, Bullets, etc...

stove pipe
12-03-2011, 7:12 PM
Whew, glad you got it cleared safely.

But more importantly, let's hope you got it done before your wife came home. :D

ojisan
12-03-2011, 7:19 PM
^ LOL
We need to know if you got in done in time!

When first reloading ammo and doing an initial set-up, a poor man's way to double check your first rounds is to remove the barrel from the gun.
Then drop one of your first rounds in the chamber and see if it easily fits all the way in to the same depth as a matching bullet weight and shape factory round you have on hand to compare to just for this purpose.
Double check a few more rounds and make sure everything is right before you make a bunch more.

jonzer77
12-03-2011, 7:19 PM
Take your barrel out and use that as your guide for setting up your reloading dies. Make some dummy rounds without adding a primer and powder. Set the crimp die to where the round slides right in the barrel and doesn't require any force. Then make about 5 of them and put the gun back together. Put them in a magazine and cycle them through to make sure they don't jam.

jonzer77
12-03-2011, 7:20 PM
^ LOL
We need to know if you got in done in time!

When first reloading ammo and doing an initial set-up, a poor man's way to double check your first rounds is to drop one in the chamber and see if it easily fits all the way in to the same depth as a matching bullet weight and shape factory round you have on hand just for this purpose.
On a 1911 and many other handguns, you can, of course, remove the barrel from the gun and have it laying right there on the work bench for no risk checking.
For revolvers you can remove the cylinder.

You typed faster then me lol

ojisan
12-03-2011, 7:24 PM
^, Yeah, but I had to edit it twice to make it reeadablle....I type teRRilbe...
:(

JTROKS
12-03-2011, 7:39 PM
I ended up using a couple of zip ties to prevent the hammer from dropping, and removed the mainspring. At that point I removed the recoil spring, and then held the gun upwards, and pulled back on the slide while wacking it with a rubber mallet.

It gave, and the round popped out.

You must have 3 hands.:D

Are you reloading lead hardcast bullets? Did the round headspace on the bullet's shoulder?

fanof1911forlife
12-03-2011, 7:54 PM
Next time something like this happen again, lock the slide back and remove the firing pin. Then you have all the time to figure out how to clear the jam without worrying about an accidental discharge.

gorenut
12-03-2011, 8:01 PM
the way it came apart, sans live round of course... Congrats! Glad to hear it was cleared without incident!

Wouldn't that be funny if his next post is about how he accidentally lodged the round back in as he was putting the gun back together.

Glad that was resolved safe and sound OP.

mrdd
12-03-2011, 8:06 PM
Next time something like this happen again, lock the slide back and remove the firing pin. Then you have all the time to figure out how to clear the jam without worrying about an accidental discharge.

That was the problem, he could not retract the slide, it was jammed shut.

L4D
12-03-2011, 8:42 PM
Now stop reading this thread before your wife comes home.

mud99
12-03-2011, 8:47 PM
You must have 3 hands.:D

Are you reloading lead hardcast bullets? Did the round headspace on the bullet's shoulder?

Two hands, with the grip on the table, one hand pulling back slide, other operating hammer.

And yes, lead bullets headspaced improperly. First time reloading.

lorax3
12-03-2011, 10:43 PM
Reading this thread was rather entertaining. Calguns need its own 24 hour hotline to find macgyver soulutions to fubar gun problems.

Dannicus
12-03-2011, 10:58 PM
To those of you that suggested zip tieing the hammer back, is this because you can't assume that the OP could be trusted to ease the hammer down safely. It would have made it easier to punch out the main spring housing pin and safer with the hammer down, right?

L4D
12-03-2011, 11:11 PM
Lol duct tape and zip ties!

glockwise2000
12-03-2011, 11:18 PM
A picture would tell a thousand words rather than crap shooting what to do.

So please post a pix.

CC Gunsmithing
12-03-2011, 11:20 PM
Gorenut and Lorax: Exactly...
I should have said Gently and Carefully remove the firing pin stop... Glad no other refrigerator devices were injured in the unloading of this 1911...

JTROKS
12-04-2011, 12:48 AM
Gorenut and Lorax: Exactly...
I should have said Gently and Carefully remove the firing pin stop... Glad no other refrigerator devices were injured in the unloading of this 1911...

I thought you have to move pull the slide back a bit to get the firing pin stop to slide down.

http://colt-1911.good-choise.com/colt1911.gif

Norsemen308
12-04-2011, 12:54 AM
BTW it would be awesome if I could somehow resolve this situation before my wife comes home.

BAHAHAHHAHAHAHHA

this is EFFING DANGEROUS<

you need to point it at something that can be destroyed and decock it.... then with it still pointed at said destroyable object you need to take the barrel bushing off, and slide the barrel out... from there it should be cake

JTROKS
12-04-2011, 12:56 AM
BAHAHAHHAHAHAHHA

this is EFFING DANGEROUS<

you need to point it at something that can be destroyed and decock it.... then with it still pointed at said destroyable object you need to take the barrel bushing off, and slide the barrel out... from there it should be cake

You have to remove the slide stop to slide the barrel forward.

Norsemen308
12-04-2011, 1:00 AM
You have to remove the slide stop to slide the barrel forward.

yah i just fetched my 1911 to play it out, totally brain farted on ahving to move the slide back to pop the barrel pin out.

CC Gunsmithing
12-04-2011, 7:38 AM
I thought I had read that the pistol was not locked in battery, had that been the case, the firing pin stop should be able to be dropped out the back, with the guts removed...



I thought you have to move pull the slide back a bit to get the firing pin stop to slide down.

http://colt-1911.good-choise.com/colt1911.gif

Bill Steele
12-04-2011, 8:26 AM
...And yes, lead bullets headspaced improperly. First time reloading.

I load mainly lead SWC's for my 1911's.

I chamber check every single one of them. I use a Dillon case gauge, but your barrel will work great as well.

Also, after you get the seat depth right, you might try crimping so the case mouth dimension is down in the .470-.471 range, it will help a great deal with feed and chambering issues when loading lead.

railroader
12-04-2011, 9:04 AM
On 45s I run the finished through a Lee factory crimp die. It irons out the brass. Problem solved. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/716704/lee-carbide-factory-crimp-die-45-acp-45-auto-rim

JTROKS
12-04-2011, 2:49 PM
Lead bullets especially SWC or WC are tricky. Most reloaders will seat the bullet to their intended COAL then crimp it and not rechecking for COAL. What happens after a heavy crimp is it will squeeze the bullet making the bullet a little longer. This brings the shoulder of a WC/SWC bullet forward increasing the chance of it engaging the headspace thus getting pressed in getting the round stuck. If the load is a reduced type it may not be dangerous to fire, but the shaved bullets is detrimental to accuracy. If it's a high pressure rounds like a 40S&W shooting a 200 grain bullet and fast burning powder, the absence of a free bore jump can dramatically increase pressures even higher that can cause case head separation or worst.

ojisan
12-04-2011, 5:54 PM
To those of you that suggested zip tieing the hammer back, is this because you can't assume that the OP could be trusted to ease the hammer down safely. It would have made it easier to punch out the main spring housing pin and safer with the hammer down, right?

We do not know the mechanical skill level of the OP.
He expressed concern about the hammer dropping.
My thoughts were rather than tell him to take the gun apart (Remove MSH etc...he may not have ever done this before), simply securing the hammer removes this worry.
And remember, we were under a time limit here before his wife gets home and finds him beating on the kitchen table with a jammed and loaded gun.
; )